Entries from Mt. McKinley
Friday, June 7, 2019 - 7:17 PM PT
We woke up to a calm and clear morning. The air was significantly warmer at the 4:30 am wake up call. A perfect day to get camp packed up and moved to 11,200’. The Team has seen all but the last three hours during our cache day. Leaving the snowshoes on our sleds we climbed up the Kahiltna glacier in crampons and made excellent time. Our goal was to beat any afternoon thunderstorms that had been rolling over
Kahiltna Pass the last few afternoons. We pulled into camp shortly after 1 pm feeling the altitude and heavy pack/sled combo. I can hear some snoring from some as they nap in the heat of their tents. Others are reading and organizing their gear. Everyone in this group is doing well with the heavy loads and rapid swings in weather. Tomorrow we will get an early start so we can retrieve our cache at 9,300’ and then the remainder of the day will be our first “active rest” day. Light clouds are moving into camp but we still have great views of Kahiltna Dome and the West Buttress of Denali, the namesake of our climbing route.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Thursday, June 6, 2019 11:56 PM PT
We woke up this morning and looked uphill at the summit again. We watched as winds increased up high. We watched a few teams leave camp and turn around before Denali pass. We looked at our dwindling food. We looked at our rapidly filling poop cans. When we added it all up, we decided that it was time to leave high camp. Four nights at 17,000 feet can seem like an icy eternity, but the team actually managed it quite well. There was nothing in the forecast that made us want to stay any longer, so we left. We’re back at 14 camp now, which seems like a beach resort in comparison. Some folks have decided they have had their fill, and some want to sit it out for a few more days, potentially trying again. Tomorrow we will flesh out our options and make a plan. For now, we are excited for the best nights sleep we’ve had in a while. We’re excited to eat something other than freeze dried food. We’re excited to be able to wear fewer than three jackets to bed.
RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
Thursday, June 6, 2019 10:06 PM PT
Greetings from 14,000’!
For the first time all trip, the weather was better than forecasted! We took full advantage early this morning, walking into the clouds for only a brief time before we were basking in the sun above 12,000’. It was a smooth move day up here to 14 Camp. We arrived early afternoon with plenty of time to completely set up camp, take naps, and then indulge in a veggie curry dinner. It was great to see our RMI friends JM and company as well as a plethora of other guides from other walks of life. It’s truly a city of friends up here at 14 Camp and our team is ecstatic to be here, especially given the squirrelly weather we’ve had over the last week. We’re all in the sleeping bags now, as it gets cold quickly up here; but we’re amped and ready to go back and pick up our windy corner cache tomorrow morning and be reunited with all of delicious lunch food and larger huge variety of meals. We’ll keep you posted on our progress.
Robby, Nick, Joe and Team ‘Clean Plate Club’
Thursday, June 6, 2019 - 5:04 PM PT
There was a light breeze that rattled the tents last night. The first few nights away from a comfortable bed can be an adjustment. The Team woke to a cold and mostly clear morning. We pumped the brakes a bit to let the air warm up and see what the clouds were doing North of us in the interior. After breakfast the clouds lifted and we launched to take advantage of the clear skies before forecasted thunderstorms and snow arrived. Our route to the cache at 9,300’ takes us up Ski Hill (it’s got the grade of a ski hill) and along the flanks of
Kahiltna Dome. The pack loads are heavy but the Team handled it with mostly smiles while taking the time to enjoy the scenic down glacier vistas. We have to cache our food and fuel in the snow so ravens do not dig it up, this typically requires a 1 meter deep hole. We are back in a white out at 7800’ Camp hanging in tents enjoying the solar and having some lunch. Tomorrow we hope to get clear skies and a cold/early start to beat the weather into 11,200’ Camp. Thanks for following along. Everyone is healthy and happy.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 10:39 PM PT
Wow! We got a little bit of every weather pattern today on our move to
Camp 1 located at 7,800’. It was overcast, hot, cold, windy, calm, thunder and we got two different rounds of snow. Back to the beginning of the day, our flight into the Alaska Range was spectacular. After a quick breakfast, K2 Aviation told us to suit up and put boots on, we were going flying. The Team did well with the heavy packs and sleds. We got into camp after seven hours and while the tents are bombproof, the rest is like that pig who made his house out of straw. Tomorrow we hope to carry half our camp up to 10,000’ but we might get weathered in. Regardless we’ll check in and look forward to another day on Denali.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 9:30 PM PT
We had it all today. Sunshine, snow, raging snow, more sun, and even some thunderstorms...aka thunder snow. Regardless, our team snuck in our carry to Windy Corner at 13,000’. Progress! It was really nice to make some progress after a couple days of rest here at
11,000' Camp. The forecast is calling for more of the same for remainder of the week, so we’ll do what we’ve been doing everyday, we’ll wake up and stick our heads out of the tent early, and see if the mountain will allow us to make our move to 14,000’ Camp tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Mountain Zen
On The Map
Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 4:43 PM PT
Well, if it’s not one thing it’s another. The wind finally died down for us, and we had a beautiful start to our summit attempt. As we neared Denali pass and the top of the
Autobahn, thunder started rumbling in the distance. In a matter of minutes we were underneath the leading edge of a 30,000 foot anvil. We tucked tail and ran back to camp, threading through climbers intent on continuing uphill. We can deal with cold, snow, and wind, but the only cure I know for lightning is distance. All in all it was a good day, considering we are all still healthy and happy. We’re going to regroup this afternoon, consider the forecast, and come up with a plan for the next few days.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
Tuesday, June 4, 2019 - 9:29 PM PT
The mountain was surly this morning. Winds were cold and strong when we woke up to attempt a carry to a cache at 13,600’. So we did what all smart climbers would do, and we stayed put and enjoyed warm down sleeping bags and snack food. We put in some serious chill time today, while the mountain continued move the air around until early afternoon. We are definitely feeling rested at this point after two full rest days here at 11,000' Camp, and are looking forward to getting up and attem and moving uphill tomorrow if the improved forecast comes to fruition. Not only are we rested, but we’re also full of macaroni and cheese and bacon from this evenings dinner. Here’s to putting that fuel to work tomorrow!
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team ‘All the Cheese’
On The Map
Tuesday, June 4, 2019 - 6:41 PM PT
The Team arrived in Anchorage yesterday and we had a nice drive to the little hamlet of Talkeetna. Today we woke up and got a good breakfast on board before diving into an extensive gear check and packing session. The Team members got to know one another as they sifted through Oreos, nuts, candy and all sorts of other gear we will need to climb this mountain over the next three weeks. Once we were packed and weighed in for our flight there was some down time before dinner. Getting out of Talkeetna is always a bit of a scramble but the process of packing for a big expedition is essential to being organized and prepared for the weather and terrain that lie ahead. Everyone is excited and a little nervous to get started and rightfully so, this really is an experience of a lifetime! 3 weeks in the Alaska Range, traveling among giants to attempt the 20,320’ summit of Denali.
We will be checking in daily, thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
Tuesday, June 4, 2019 - 6:16 PM PT
Last night was probably the least comfortable night of the trip. We had strong gusts throughout the night that rattled our tents, and kept us all far from sleep. We spent the morning hiding from the cold and sipping on hot drinks. The winds were too high to make a summit attempt. Eventually things calmed down, and we ventured forth into the world. It has turned into quite a nice day up here, with winds near the summit diminishing as well. We’ve had some amazing views looking down at our previous camps and the
Kahiltna glacier winding out of sight. The forecast looks promising for tomorrow. Once again, we’ll wake up in the morning and see what the mountain gives us.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
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Wise choice given the conditions you described. For those who want to try again, I hope you make it. Stay warm, and step safe. What a beautiful photo!
Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/7/2019 at 9:24 pm
Whatever choice you make, you’ve accomplished so much Brittni (and everyone else!). Diligently checking the blog daily; sunny Colorado is rooting for you!
Posted by: Kate Holmes on 6/7/2019 at 7:13 pm
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