Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relax at 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 8, 2017 Today was another relaxed day! The crew played more corn hole and we learned a new old game from Amir and Nima. The winds were cooking this morning. The signs of uphill progress were not looking hot. The team is bonding and has high spirits for sticking out the unsettled and likely stormy weather the next few days. Brent's RMI team descended to 14,000' to skip the bad weather up high. The guides put some strong work into helping them set up camp and make water for them. Tomorrow will likely bring more laughter and good times maybe some laps around camp, we'll see. The weather has to break at some point! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Matt,
I hope you’re well up there and that you’re getting some good use out of my favorite down slippers. Enjoy the rest of your time on the mountain and take lots of pictures. It looks amazing and I can’t wait to hear your stories.

If by chance you start to miss me… Just remember every time you look up at the moon, I too will be looking at a moon. Not the same moon, obviously, that’s impossible.

Love, Colleen

Posted by: Colleen on 6/9/2017 at 4:24 pm

Hope weather breaks real soon! We want you to come home soon! Stay safe!

Posted by: Kathy Healy on 6/9/2017 at 3:09 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 7, 2017 The team is still here at 14,000 ft Camp on Denali. Our snow walls we built yesterday proved to be worthy today as the winds were gusty and we had some light snowfall this afternoon. Today provided some more tent time than the last few days, discussions around dinner have evolved to what books people are reading and if anyone is ready to trade finished books. We also got crafty with building a camp game, with a sled filled with snow and some sandwich bags packed with snow we improvised the game cornhole. It became an instant hit and we might have some more time here to start a tournament! Otherwise, all is well as we wait out the windy and snowy conditions on the upper mountain. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Hi to Dear Amir and Nima and all team guide and team members,

Hoping this message finds you well. I can understand how tough it is to wait in the camp for final approach. You need to be too patient, that you are!! and keep yourself fit and safe. I don ‘t want to disappoint you but it may happen if your supplies are running rock bottom down or weather conditions are tough, your guides may decide bringing you down without going to top summing. But that’s it; at times it is the route that matters not the mere fact of reaching the goal. Stay tough, patient and safe,
Last Friday 9th of June, I climbed to Claun Bastak (CB) in Dizin area of Central Alborz, north of Tehran. CB has a height of 4300 m (we started from Dizin at 2000 m ) and when we reached summit we had the amazing view of Damavand summit, Touchal, and Alam Kuh. As it was too cold, we spent half an hour there. In the way down we had a difficult time as the route was too sharp and slippery. I have put pictures on our family account. !!
I keep my fingers crossed and pray you prevail it. But if you didn’t, don’t worry you are on the right path and on the good hands; you would be able to do it next time. Please don’t forget that it is not the goals that are important, the path towards goals are much mor fundamental and meaningful. You will accomplish it, keep your spirits and stay safe and well,
Hadi, Mitra’s father,

Posted by: Hadi on 6/10/2017 at 11:08 pm

Tym, Tyler, and Team,

Hang in there and be patient. Your time has to be coming. Keep up your spirits and know I am thinking of you here in the 90 degree lowlands of Charlotte, NC. And…Satoshi says, $2,822.00.

Love,
Mom

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/9/2017 at 3:56 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Take Rest Day At 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 7, 2017 We are writing from our newly built snow fortress at 14,000'. After a leisurely wake up time and a hearty brunch of bagels and smoked salmon (with capers!), we set our sights on fortifying our camp with some snow walls. The team worked seamlessly to make a solid camp that can withstand wind and blowing snow. With our work for the day out of the way, we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in our cozy tents. Our bellies are filled with a delicious dinner of chicken quesadillas, and we are looking forward to some more technical training tomorrow. Good night from 14,200 feet on Denali! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Cheryl, I’m almost unbearably proud to call a woman like you one of my dearest.
Cheerleading so ridiculously hard with my five star dance moves for you ! (I’d like to think in a way that would make you turn bright red and step slightly to the side - the psych is that real)
Mind
Over
Matter
Keep crushing! You’ve already reached the summit of my heart .
Hugs ❤️
Sarah

Posted by: Sarah on 6/9/2017 at 12:17 pm

Jake Jirsa - We’re watching you! Keep it up man. You’re only a few inches from the top on the map!

Posted by: Jim and Kerynn on 6/9/2017 at 11:42 am

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Climb to Denali Pass

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 18,200'

June 7, 2017 "Ok, I know we've been climbing for three hours straight, but let's get a quick bite to eat and drink and get out of here and back to camp." "Brent, there's like over thirty people behind us on the route." JT exclaims, trying to be heard over the winds that have just picked up. This was the scene at Denali Pass a few hours ago, high point of our midday sojourn to kick in the route, reset the anchors to the current route and mostly get some exercise so we do not waste away up here. After passing a windless evening last night I was optimistic of our chances to summit this morning. But, as our typically poor luck would have it, around 7:00am the first ripples of wind tickled the tent walls. By 9:00 we had 40 mph gusts pushing the tent walls into our faces. Yes, we were all ready to go if the weather improved since it wasn't horrible outside besides those pesky gusts. Finally, 11:45 rolled around and we decided to go for a little walk. By 12:30 we were climbing to Denali Pass. This is typically later than we'd like to start for the summit, but we didn't have the summit in mind anyways. What took me by surprise was how our little walk inspired the entire camp at 17,200' to gear up and climb. Our team really climbed well today, especially impressing me on how well everyone descended. The weather forecast is not really inspiring, but we'll hang in here for a couple more days anyways to see if we can catch a break. The team is still smiling, and we had a great experience today. All it takes is one nice day to finish this thing off. Good night, RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT

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JT - I’m living vicariously through you, have fun and be safe.!

Posted by: Uncle Tad on 6/9/2017 at 6:53 am

Keep the faith, Lindsay and team!

Ken P

Posted by: Ken Porrello on 6/8/2017 at 12:49 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 7, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Jake Beren & Team checking in. We moved to 14.000' Camp on Denali yesterday. Today we are busy building walls and fortifying our camp and getting settled in. We will spend tomorrow training and are enjoying the thinner air. All is well!

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14000 - awesome! Stay Strong everyone!
Go Steve!

Mike and Pat

Posted by: Mike and Pat Lurakis on 6/8/2017 at 8:18 am

happy birthday to ken at 14000! love from your wife and family.

Posted by: anne lawler on 6/7/2017 at 9:27 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Building Walls at 14,000’ Camp

June 7, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 6, 2017 Today we woke up to the expected winds on the upper mountain. The temperatures are creeping up slowly but the winds are keeping us low for a day, or a few. This means we acclimate by doing light activity and a bit of lifting. We started with a hot drink and traveled back to the edge of the world to outstanding views. Afterwords, the team all piled into the cook tent for a round of blueberry pancakes. Building walls around our camp, creating a mountain castle, filled the next few hours as we fortified our outpost. We now have the best walls and the best views in camp! A fellow RMI team lead by Jake, Steve, and Megan arrived at 14 today, and our group was happy to lend them a hand setting up camp. We are now surrounded by friends in a beautiful camp. Everything is in its place, and we are ready to move uphill when the mountain allows it. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Fingers crossed for clear weather and being able to push ahead at the soonest opportunity.

Go John and the rest of the team!

Posted by: SoCal Gunns on 6/8/2017 at 9:56 am

Hi Dear Amir and Hi to all team members,
Hope all is OK with you and you have a pleasant and safe climbing. You are just at it!! You are on a hard journey. Years ahead you look back and you enjoy remembering an unforgettable, amazing and exciting experience in fighting physically and spirituallly against hard rock stones in your way up. Your ascent is symbolising how you need to move forward and pass the barriers patiently and humbly but resolutely. Tomorrow morning I will be climbing Claun Bastami at 4300 meter height, beginning at 4 am and coming down in the afternoon.
Please take good care of yourself, preserve your skin from the intensity of sun and stay well!
Hadi, Mitra’s dad

Posted by: Hadi on 6/8/2017 at 6:51 am

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Waiting for Better Weather

June 7, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

June 6, 2017 The cocoon of warmth and comfort provided by our sleeping bags is tough to leave sometimes, especially when the mercury is hovering well below zero outside. But starting at 6:30am that is my job: to look outside and check the climbing conditions for summit worthy weather. The winds around camp had settled a little, but blowing snow was obvious above us around Denali Pass. Although better than yesterday, I was still rather leery of bringing the team into conditions like that. With improvement by 7:30 we had hots on for breakfast and the team prepared all they could by being all dressed and ready to go, but hanging out in their tents and staying warm. At decision time there was still blowing snow off the higher ridges and the Pass, and I made another tough decision not to go for the summit, As soon as it warmed up a bit we continued with the home improvements started yesterday and are now proud owners of a roofed and enclosed bathroom. Ok, basically it's just a place for us to pee and poop, but we'll now have some privacy and a little protection from the gusts of wind and snow we've had to deal with the past few days. Up here, it's the little things that help make this tough life at 17,200' just a little nicer. It was good for all of us to move and work a bit, and many blocks of snow were cut in the construction of our masterpiece. I believe we impressed our neighbors to no end, with many people coming over to garner building tips for making on of their own, or just taking pictures and marveling at the energy we put in to our humble commode. As these days pass by even the most patient of us are getting antsy for the summit, but there's one thing we don't have control of is the weather. So, we just make the most of what we have. Life on this beautiful mountain in the company of some pretty cool people. Things could be a lot worse. Bye for now. RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT

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Hi Bill and team,

I admire your perseverance with the waiting game, undoubtably the hardest part of the climb. Camp construction and naps are a great way to pass the time. I’ve been checking the weather periodically and trying to guess as to when you all might head for the summit. Fingers crossed for warmer weather when that finally does happen! Sending great thoughts for a safe summit bid!!

Love,
K

Posted by: Kristen Kelliher on 6/8/2017 at 6:11 am

You Guys have an AWESOME Camp!!! Climb Strong!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/8/2017 at 3:47 am

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Take a Rest Day at 11,000’ Camp

June 6, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

June 5, 2017 Today the team woke to find a fresh coat of feather light snow over camp, with more coming down. We were content to snuggle back into our sleeping bags for a few more hours before the sun finally appeared. After a satisfying breakfast of granola with fresh blueberries, we spent the morning practicing ascending fixed lines in preparation for when we move from 14,000' Camp to 17,000'. We followed up our training with a delicious potluck lunch. Now we are getting ready for bed with full bellies and well rested legs. If weather allows, we will try move up to 14,000' Camp tomorrow. Good night from 11,000'! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Patients, patients, patients- would have thought you would have had plenty of them over the years Steve - oh sorry wrong kind - well praying for patience for all! Hang in there and enjoy every moment of this epic adventure! Pat :)

Posted by: Mike and Pat Lurakis on 6/7/2017 at 3:26 pm

Happy birthday to Ken Lawler! Hopefully you guys are up at 14 camp at this point and ready to take on the buttress. Good luck, sending good SoCal weather your way.

Posted by: Brad Lawler on 6/7/2017 at 12:52 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Take Well Deserved Rest Day

June 6, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 5, 2017 After our cache to 17,200' Camp yesterday, our team had earned a well deserved rest day. We cooked up some breakfast burritos this morning for brunch which included eggs, bacon and hash browns. After digesting our breakfast, we stretched out our legs by walking to the Edge of the World. Each team member was belayed out to the edge which drops some 5,000 ft to the Northeast Fork and provides some great photos to bring home. The weather outlook is calling for some windy and cold days ahead so the team may be sticking it out here at 14k camp but when our time comes we will be rested and ready to climb! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Trip Conclusion

June 5, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

We last gave a shout from 7,600’ at the base of Ski Hill on our descent. It was a long day, beginning with the sun hitting 17 Camp, where we packed up all of our belongings, and headed back down the West Buttress. Conditions couldn’t have been better, and before long we were shedding layers as quickly as we could as we walked into the heat of 14 Camp. An hour of repacking and grabbing more of our gear that we had cached there as well as visiting with RMI Guide Tyler Jones’ team had us ready to move out again. By 11, the air felt thick and the temps were even warmer. RMI Guide Jake Beren and team had been nice enough to dig up our cache, so once more we repacked, adjusted our sleds, traded crampons for snowshoes, and kept beat footing our way down the mountain. We rolled into 7,600 at 10 pm, and though there was a lot of discussion of just continuing on to Base Camp, we decided to throw up the tents for a few hours. We were rewarded with spectacular light as the sun dipped behind the surrounding peaks, and it was a special last night on the glacier. By 4 am we were up and walking again. The few hours of sleep had added some spring to everyones’ step and we flew down glacier, reaching Base Camp in 2.5 hours. We parked next to the runway just as the sun hit. At 9 am on the dot, our good friends from K2 Aviation showed up in three Otters to pick up ourselves and Mike Walter’s team, and by 10 we were in flip-flops back in Talkeetna. Everyone enjoyed the ensuing leisurely day of sorting gear, showers, ice cream, coffee, a celebratory dinner, and a few hours in the classic Fairview Inn. Everyone has split now, finishing plane journey’s back home to loved ones. Thanks so much to our team. They climbed in great style, were equal to the task when things got difficult, put up with a lot of tent time and waiting, and ultimately were able to power through a move to 17 and a summit day without having carried there. We summited an hour or so after Mike Walter’s group (the first guide service summit of the year), on the first viable summit day that had presented itself during our entire stint on the mountain. We were rewarded with incredibly clear views, warm temps, and an overall fantastic day. The views on the way out were pretty stunning as well. Thanks also to all of you for following along. Sore feet and legs are fading away but folks are already talking of their next climbs to come. We look forward to it! Best, RMI Guides Pete, Jess, and Jenny.

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Congrats for making it to the summit Rachel ! :) Pallavi.

Posted by: Pallavi Chahal on 6/8/2017 at 12:46 am

Congratulations Rachel Calvert, Pete and team! Have been following the blog and was so pleased to hear all made the summit safely and saw the beautiful Alaska range on a clear sunny day.
Rachel - will have to catch up with you and see your photos when you are back in Australia.
Renee Duvoisin (2015 summit team)

Posted by: Renee Duvoisin on 6/6/2017 at 4:18 pm

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relax at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Take Rest Day At 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Climb to Denali Pass

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Building Walls at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Waiting for Better Weather

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Take a Rest Day at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Take Well Deserved Rest Day

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Trip Conclusion

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