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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Preparing for Summit Bid Tomorrow

Sunday June 14th 8:20 pm PT Hello, this is RMI Guide, Eric Frank, calling in from Alaska. I'm at the Balcony Camp on the Upper West Rib, here at 16,900 feet. Our team climbed up here today from our 14,000-foot camp. We're doing great. It is about 7:20 PM, Alaska time. We have tents up and we are settling into dinner. It's beautiful evening out here. We can see several hundred miles from our vantage all throughout the Alaska Range and into the tundra to the north, so we're doing well. We anticipate great weather tomorrow. RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from Balcony Camp.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I am glad to see that our prayers cleared the weather for you. May God be with you all during your climb.  I can not wait until I am able to climb this mountain sometime in the next couple of years or so.

Thanks

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/16/2015 at 8:16 am

Kim- it’s me again- just wanted to give you a heads up that dad has been waiting for you on the summit- so act totally surprised when you see him- he brought a stuffed colobus monkey with him so you won’t be able to miss him!
Xoxoxo
Lora

Posted by: Lora on 6/15/2015 at 11:37 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Training Day 2

Sunday June 14th 8:50 pm PT Today we wished our dear friends "Bon voyage" as the other RMI teams moved up on the West Rib and Buttress. Good luck everyone! As for our esteemed crew, we spent the midday training to be as agile as the mighty wolverine when we tackle the fixed lines. It was great to see everyone both excel at the training course and take the time to enjoy the absurdly beautiful views of Hunter, Foraker and the Kahiltna Glacier. It was a stunning day up here. Tomorrow we hope to carry goods higher up to prepare for moving when the weather allows. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jake, you’re killin’ me! It’s been over 48 hours since your last post. What’s happening? How’s the weather? Is everybody OK? Did you guys summit already?

Posted by: Norm Vork on 6/16/2015 at 9:58 pm

Hi,

I hope you’re having a good time AJ.Good work till now,keep up the spirit.Take care see you soon at sea level. :)

Posted by: Megha Bhardwaj on 6/16/2015 at 8:24 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Battle the Buttress to Reach High Camp

Sunday, June 14, 2015 - 6:37 pm PT At last, our patience has paid off. After eight nights at 14 Camp, we finally got the weather today to move our camp up the West Buttress to our high camp at 17,200 feet. The team did great work, traveling up the fixed lines, along the Buttress proper, past Washburn's Thumb, and into camp. Upon our arrival the team was greeted by blustery winds so we immediately put all of our wall building practice to good use and hammered out a camp in short time. Now we're tucked out of the weather and cooking an early dinner to get ready for a big day tomorrow. If the weather looks good in the morning, we plan on making our summit push! The team is looking strong and everyone is excited to see the last 18 days of hard work pay off. Time for an early evening, and hopefully the next time you hear from us will be from the top of North America! RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ken your almost there. Keep safe and don’t give up. The view from up there is breath taking, enjoy. Jose

Posted by: Jose Gonzalez on 6/15/2015 at 4:18 pm

18 days of hard work….at D.G.‘s rate you guys are going to be minted!!

Best of luck in the coming days!

Posted by: Will Ivy on 6/15/2015 at 3:24 pm


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Awaits a Perfect Weather Window

Sunday June 14th 12:00 a.m. PT The weather has turned and things in the Alaska Range are looking up. All day we lounged under blue skies and made our final gear decisions. It appears from the forecast that tomorrow and Monday will be our best opportunity to climb. We anticipate leaving in the morning and starting a 72-hour cycle of nearly continuous movement, punctuated with some periods of sleep, that will hopefully take us to the top and all the way back to our plane ride to Talkeetna. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kim- in the immortal words of Diana Ross “way to go Kim & the rest of your group”!! Oops I mean, “ain’t no mountain high enough”- good luck on the big climb!!
Michael

Posted by: Michael on 6/14/2015 at 3:15 pm

Kimapotamus- exciting news about your trip!!! Good luck with the big climb-you will totally rock-it!!!! 
Lora

Posted by: Lora on 6/14/2015 at 3:11 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Half Day Cache Day

Saturday June 13th 11:15 pm PT In days of yore when men where men and battles raged across the lands and glory rose in the mountains, there came upon the mountaineering stage a great climbing team called "el siete". This fellowship of dynamic professionals hailed from all corners of the great U.S. of A. and even called on brethren from distant Norwegian lands to converge here below "Ski Hill" at Camp One on Denali (which is French for "The Nali"). The determined team worked to achieve the glory of their pursuit by trudging upward to 10,000 feet to strategically deposit in their mountain bank expedition supplies for safe keeping. Nestled in their beds the great team awaits a strong move in the wee hours of the morning to 9,600 feet. Stay tuned for more adventures of the soon to be mountaineering legends know as "el siete." Stay classy lower 48 - and Norway! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Mike, can’t help but follow your teams adventures with prose like that! Climb strong.

Posted by: Bob on 6/15/2015 at 6:11 am


Mt. Rainier: June 14th Summit!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent and team reached the Mount Rainier summit before 7:00 a.m. The weather was already quite warm and calm winds. After spending some time on top, including the last stretch to Columbia Crest, the team began their descent at 8:25 a.m.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

It was an epic adventure. Thank you to Billy and team. You guys were amazing. Bridget was amazing to carry another team members backpack plus her own and all of you doing back to back trips to make this possible. This was a lot of work to get prepared for, but would not have been possible without your expertise!!! I am proud to say we went with RMI. A team of truly talented and amazing people. Here are some pics from the summit, plus some from the two trips Peter and I took to Camp Muir in February and May: http://www.mcsheehy.com/Places/United-States/Washington/Mt-Rainier/

Posted by: Matthew McSheehy on 6/16/2015 at 2:57 pm

Congratulations Maura and John!!! So proud of you!! HAPPY 30th BIRTHDAY JOHN!!! What a day!!!!

Posted by: Ashley on 6/14/2015 at 1:45 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Welcomed to the Neighborhood at 14K

Saturday June 13th 7:15 pm PT Today has been fantastic. We left 11 Camp early this morning and enjoyed perfect conditions and weather on our way up to 14 Camp. The team climbed very well and we were again treated to supreme hospitality by the other RMI teams at 14 Camp. Plenty of water and some pre-made tent platforms will make us soft if we aren't careful. Now for some well-deserved rest before dinner. Tomorrow we will handle some training and wish our friends good luck as they move into position for their time in the stratosphere. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kevin, wishing you luck with your summit, and hoping the weather stays clear and beautiful, for tons of views, pictures and memories.  Mom and Dad Larson

Posted by: warren larson on 6/18/2015 at 5:21 pm

Looks like an awesome time. Sure does look different from the bottom of the mountain to what you are seeing.

Posted by: Tammy Gjerde on 6/14/2015 at 8:03 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ready to Move

June 13, 2015 4:31pm PST The final day of waiting and preparation... We hope! Today is a calm and sunny day at 14 camp, although the small plumes of snow still sail above us on the West Buttress ridge and upper mountain. With groups of climbers from around the world stacking up over the last week of poor weather, the headwall and fixed lines were crawling with dozens of folks on the move -- Making for one full boat on the route today. Our decision to stall and let the hoards move on and winds continue to die down will hopefully give us a smooth and ultimately safer move. We want to work smarter not harder and like a raven sailing on the afternoon thermals give our team the best and smoothest climb we at RMI can offer. Thank you all for the comments, wish us luck and we hope to check in from high camp tomorrow! Cheers! RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ken, you guys are so close! Sounds like you have a. Dry smart guide and a great team. I know you are all about working smarter and not harder. We learn a lot together at work,  i can’t wait to all of the life lessons and self discover you must be experiencing on this trip. Praying for clear ski so you and your team can work smart and make it to the top.

Posted by: Dennis Canevari on 6/13/2015 at 9:40 pm

D.G.,  Prayers for success and safety to all.  Ted has his fingers crossed. Love you, Mom

Posted by: Caroline Clayton on 6/13/2015 at 7:46 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Reach Camp 1

Friday June 12th 11:25 pm PT Upon our late arrival at Base Camp the weather started turning nasty, so we set up tents and burrowed into our sleeping bags. Lo and behold, upon awakening the skies had cleared and the mountain beckoned! We broke camp and descended the Southeast Fork Kahiltna to the Main Fork, turned up-glacier and headed toward Camp 1. The glacier route is in prime condition and we reached our camp in several hours taking in the spectacular mountain views around us. Everyone in the team is doing great and looking forward to our next objective, Camp ll. More later! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Checks in From 14K Camp

Friday June 12th 10:30 pm PT A blog post brought to you by Kim, Pete and Phillip: We awoke to clear blue skies and stellar views of the Alaska Range. It was followed by an exquisite breakfast of fluffy blueberry and granola pancakes, topped with a wild cherry compote. Then we made a six-feet deep hole and went to "The Edge of the World". Weather is looking better and we are hopeful that we will move up the mountain this weekend. We are looking forward to moving higher up on the mountain, since we are all rested up having slept more in the past few nights than we have in the last month. Clearly we are enjoying the mountain lifestyle, but ready for the next challenges. Viele Grüße vom Berg, cheers The Gang P.S. Hi Sophia! XO love Aunt Kim
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad all is going well.  We had dinner with the family tonight.  We all are very excited for you.
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/13/2015 at 6:47 pm

Hi Aunt Kim!!! Thanks for giving me a shout-out on the mountain- now I’m famous!! Good Luck with your big climb!!!
Xoxoxo
Sophia
PS I wouldn’t want to be with a bunch of boys- they may have cooties!

Posted by: Sophia Rose on 6/13/2015 at 3:29 pm

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