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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: June 13th Update

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb, led by Ty Reid and Pete Van Deventer, is currently on the summit. The weather report from the summit is sunny skies and moderate/steady winds. An update will be posted when the teams begin their descent. Congratulations summit climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations NYSCF team - JAMES TEAGUE, RICH RUNDLE, MARK MCCAULEY and DIETER EGLI !!!!!  and to think you had ALREADY peaked when you surpassed your fundraising goal and raised $26,565 for stem cell research!  YOU ROCK!  Now, come on down from those rocks and celebrate!  And, call home!  :-)  Love to all.  Pride in all.  Thanks, Guides, Ty and Pete.

Posted by: Jessie Teague on 6/13/2015 at 11:05 am

Way to go Stephanie and Pat!!

Posted by: Lilli Pietromonaco on 6/13/2015 at 8:37 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Arrive at Base Camp

After some long trips from our respective homes, our crew arrived in Anchorage and formed the super team, "El Siete" (RMI Team Seven). We made the journey to Talkeetna, AK the day before yesterday and started to prepare for our flight onto the mountain. We spent yesterday packing in the hanger. The weather did not seem to be on our side and the probability of us flying into base camp on time seemed very small. We figured we would be joining all of the other teams that had been doing the "Talkeetna Wait" for days. We woke up today anticipating that we would not fly this morning and we were not wrong. After a good breakfast, lunch, and a few wanders around town, we planned on getting a pizza and watching the NBA finals. As soon as the crew started to get into the game, the flight service called and told us there was a small window for us to fly. So here we are on the glacier ready to climb the big one. If you did not get a call from us before we left, we were in a mad rush and we will get back to you after we summit! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Keep the pictures coming.  Glad all is going well.
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/14/2015 at 11:47 am

Not sure first e-mail got to you. Stay warm, stay safe and have a great time
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/13/2015 at 6:57 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 14’ Camp

June 11, 2015 11:17pm PST What a day! We woke early to begin the day's nowcasting (real time weather) to see if it was workable to put a cache higher on the mountain. Motorcycle Hill stayed more or less visible throughout breakfast, so we decided to give it a shot. As we climbed higher the weather smiled upon us. Little wind and some good reports from our friends up at 14 Camp and we just kept on trucking. Arriving at 14 Camp was a real treat. Hugs from the other RMI teams as well as a pre dug cache hole made for a solid foray to our future home. Thanks again guys! Now back down in camp at 11, we are about to sleep. Tomorrow we plan to rest. With any luck our forecast for improving conditions (thanks guys) verifies and we hope to move higher soon. June 12, 2015 3:52pm PST Ahhhh. It has been a great day today. So far we have had a leisurely brunch followed by some excellent chatting in our kitchen tent. Then some spice sampling followed by headstand yoga practicing. Now the team is napping and reading. The weather has been quite pleasant here in camp, but sure looked windy up high this morning. All in all a perfect day to sit tight and recover after a few big days of climbing. With any luck Denali will let us up a little higher tomorrow. If so, we'll be ready. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Here’s hoping the great weather continues—sounds like a wonderful experience although I’m not sure about “headstand yoga”? Bill—I know she’s so much smaller but seeing Rainier in the sun down here reminds us of your adventure up there.

Posted by: Wolf & Leilani on 6/13/2015 at 3:25 pm

Really great work Meredith and the whole team!  I’m so in awe of this epic effort being put forth. Miss you back home but I love picturing you rockin’ in out up there.
Keep up the great job!

Posted by: Geoff on 6/13/2015 at 1:20 pm


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Train at 14,000’

June 11, 2015 10:02pm With unsettled weather upon us we slept in this morning had a nice brunch and spent the afternoon reviewing some technical skills. We discussed some of the techniques we will use and practiced removing and stowing various types of gear as we climb. The team is anxious to get climbing but there is nothing we can do until the weather improves. For now we are enjoying long meals, funny stories, and some good naps. That's all for now. Thanks for following along and keep your fingers crossed for some good weather up here on Denali. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Kim & Co.!!! I am no Al Roker but surely things must be getting better in your neck of the woods!!!  Fingers crossed that the snow is done for the time being!!! Btw Sophia is auditioning for the role of Flounder on Monday (Ariel’s sidekick)...
Hugs &kisses;
Ron the Potato, Jerome, Adam Richman, Mark Klein & me

Posted by: Lora on 6/12/2015 at 7:30 pm

Hi Kim, I hope there is a dramatic improvement in the weather so that you & the team can move upward! Hopefully, tomorrow (Saturday) will be the “big’ day where the snow will stop,the sun will shine & the winds will be calm!!! I am sending positive weather vibes your way!  Travel safe & stay well!  Love,  Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 6/12/2015 at 4:58 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 12th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Mike Soucy reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The Team reported strong winds, clouds and deteriorating weather. They have started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Team!
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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Adventure to the Edge of the World

Thursday June 11th 5:50 pm PT Again we remain at 14,000 foot camp as we wait for the weather to turn for a summit bid. The snow keeps coming down around here like coconut flakes sprinkled on ice cream. We did take advantage of a short break in the clouds this morning to walk to the Edge of the World, a viewpoint to the northeast fork of the Kahiltna several thousand feet below. Waddling out onto the saddle rock is an existential experience indeed, having all that air underneath you really makes you feel alive! After our trek to the Edge of the World, we enjoyed a nice mid-morning brunch. With chilly temperatures and a light breeze we crawled back into our tents for an afternoon reading session. A few hours later we greeted Jake's team, who carried from 11K Camp. It was nice to see his team, they all seemed to be doing well. Keep sending good weather vibes our way! RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ken we are all still pulling for you. I know you are having a great time seeing some amazing sights. Can’t wait to hear about it when you get back. Praying for good weather so you can make that summit. Dennis

Posted by: Dennis Canevari on 6/12/2015 at 5:46 pm

Ken, here’s a poem for you and the team…

And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. Anais Nin

Posted by: Anna Fisher on 6/12/2015 at 2:01 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 11th Summit!

Today's Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs, led by Seth Waterfall and Sid Pattison, reached the summit early this morning. The weather report was beautiful skies and winds about 35-40 mph from the Northeast. Both teams began their descent back to Camp Muir at 7:15 am PT. Congratulations summit teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

CONGRADULATIONS.  ALL!!!  Keith your training paid off!!!  Can’t wait to hear the details.

Posted by: Bill Thomas on 6/11/2015 at 11:39 am

Congratulations, Everyone.  Keith Miller . . . I’m sure you were there on the top doing the happy dance.  I hope so.  I made it to the top of Rainier in 2010 with Set and Solveig—you were in good hands my friend.  Wished I had been there with you.

Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 6/11/2015 at 11:23 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Waiting for a Break

Wednesday June 10th 5:30 pm PT Today brings more snow to Mt. McKinley at 14,000ft. After coffee, bagels and bacon everyone spent a few hours lounging in their tents before starting the afternoon projects. The camp project consisted of building an enclosed toilet. A true architectural feat, I might add. The secondary project was a remodel of the posh tent, which consisted of lowering the floor to give us a bit more headroom. Our camp looks great and hopefully we will get some good weather coming our way this weekend. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

DG, Tyler,
          Sounds like the Taj Ma Staul is the evnv of camp 14 again now to stand guard to keep everyone else from using it.  Hope the weather gets better for you guys so wish I was there. Have a safe and fun climb.

Posted by: Dave Johnson on 6/11/2015 at 12:37 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Back Carry from 11K Camp

Wednesday, June 10th 10:15 pm PT The winds subsided enough today to allow us safe passage back to our buried cache at 9,600 feet. It was a fun stroll and though we broke trail in a full whiteout to get there, we enjoyed extremely pleasant walking conditions on our quest for the rest of our snacks. The afternoon held time for a nap and a review of climbing techniques before dinner. If the weather cooperates we are set to jet and bump a load higher on the route tomorrow. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good going AJ and team! Hope you guys are having fun at your adventure. Good luck and be safe.

Posted by: Charu on 6/12/2015 at 3:00 pm

I was reading the Jones Team blog and it sounds like your group has already been up to the 1400 foot point.  Way to go! Keep it up!

Posted by: Norm Vork on 6/12/2015 at 7:34 am


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Bides Their Time

All of the pieces are in place for an attempt on the Upper West Rib, now we are just waiting on the weather. With yesterday's carry to 16,400ft we have had a chance to stress our bodies and progress the acclimatization process. The weather in the Alaska range can be a fickle thing. Moisture from the south mixes with frigid temperatures from the north, and the resulting scale of weather can be anything from light snow flakes to true arctic blizzards. Right now we are in a holding pattern waiting for the snow to stop. It has only snowed a few inches today, but two feet are predicted for the coming 48 hours. With our shovels at the ready we are waiting to see if the prediction comes true. There is a silver lining to the forecast, however. It appears as though after this round of snowfall, the weather will stabilize and we may get our window to climb. That is still a few days out, but we are hopeful. The highlight around camp today was a potluck style lunch. After two weeks on the glacier a little variety in the daily diet was a welcomed change. Thanks for following along, and if anyone feels like overnight shipping a snowblower and a few gallons of gas our way, it would be much appreciated. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank and the UWR team.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hi Kim!  Cannot believe all the snow!  Hope you are not getting too frustrated, I certainly admire your stamina!  On the bright side - the 17 year cicadas are in the midwest right now.  Hope it clears up soon!  Love, Momma

Posted by: Jane Lubow on 6/10/2015 at 9:02 pm

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