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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Carry to 16,400’

June 9, 2015, 9:46 pm PT The weather forecast has been calling for an impending storm, luckily it held off until late this afternoon. This morning we woke, ate a quick breakfast, and rigged for caching up on the Rib. With light loads and good climbing conditions the team made good time as we worked our way up to the West Rib. Clouds and light winds picked up in the afternoon and we decided to cache at 16,400'. Clouds enveloped us on our decent and the winds kicked up shortly after we returned to 14 Camp. The team did great and we are now in a great position to push higher when the weather allows. Everyone is well and looking forward to more climbing. Until we get our weather window we are maintaining excitement by focusing on the small things. For example, tomorrow we are planning a potluck lunch and maybe some competitive napping. That's all for now. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kimmer!!! Y’all are amazeballs!!!! Way to go!!! I must quote Dr. Shelly now “things are getting very exciting”!!! Marina & Sophia say hello and give you kisses!! Have you made a Pringles, pb&j quesadilla yet???
Xoxoxo
Lora

Posted by: Lora on 6/10/2015 at 11:51 am

Hi Kim, Great update! We are all so pleased that you & the team are on the “move”!  Wow…16,400’ for the carry! Now lets all hope the weather “breaks” soon & you have a great “window” that will allow the team to take the next big “step”! Travel safe & stay well!!  Love,  Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 6/10/2015 at 8:39 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Mike King reached the summit this morning around 7 am. The teams enjoyed clear skies and warm temperatures with some windy conditions. Both teams will descend to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an amazing experience.  Brent, Lance, & JM did an incredible job getting us to the summit and I had a great time meeting our team. Definitely a trip to remember. Kudos to the RMI staff for a job well done.

Posted by: daniel on 6/11/2015 at 12:21 pm

Zach and Molly…....way to go!  Summit day 4….we are so proud of you!!!!  YAY Marquette flag on top! XOXO

Posted by: Christiane & Jim on 6/10/2015 at 4:04 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Sitting Pretty at 14,200’

June 9, 2015, 4:22 pm PT Last night we had a fiesta with the Upper West Rib team. It was a posh full of laughs, stories, and quesadillas. This morning we slept in and enjoyed a bagel and salmon breakfast over stories and Via coffee. The team spent most of the day in the posh battling it out at Phase Ten (a card game). The rest of the day has been spent lounging and grazing on food. We are hoping for some good weather this weekend and with good neighbors, good food, and some good tunes we are sitting pretty up here at 14,000'. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We miss you so much and can’t wait to hear about your adventure!
Hope you’re kicking everyone’s butt at phase ten and taking lots of pictures!
See you soon!
Love Jennifer, Lila & Owen
xox

Posted by: Jen on 6/12/2015 at 11:24 am

Mark & Dave,
Hey boys, glad to hear you guys are steadily making your way to the top! We are on the blog every chance we get, hoping for the next post on how you guys are doing and Lila love to tell me that “Daddy is hiking in the mountains with Unkey Dave”

Posted by: Jennifer on 6/11/2015 at 8:53 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,200’ Camp

June 9, 2015, 3:39 pm PT Awaking to light snow and little wind yesterday we decided to see if moving was realistic. Denali decided to make us earn it and we climbed through consistent wind and snow to make it up here. The team did great, and evening found us snug in our sleeping bags. This morning we battled the same wind and snow that followed us up from 7,800' as we fortified our living space, building artistic (yet functional) walls to protect us from the elements. This afternoon we will rest and recover from a few big days before retrieving our cache and sending a new one higher on the route. Great to be posted up higher on the Great One. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Meredith! We are following your progress like hawks. Kim and I pray for your guys, your happiness, and your safety. Hope this is everything you dreamed it would be and more. We are taking good care of each other and each time we are together, we think of you!
David

Posted by: David on 6/10/2015 at 3:18 pm

Hi Meredith!  Hope you are having fun and that the sunny skies return.  Thinking of you!!!!!!

Posted by: Christi on 6/10/2015 at 8:21 am


Mt.Rainier: June 9th Teams on Top!

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Elías de Andrés Martos and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning and were beginning their descent from the summit around 7AM. It's a beautiful day with clear skies and warm temperatures, the guides did report some strong winds on the upper mountain. Both climbing teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. The teams will return to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford this afternoon. On the Kautz Glacier route, RMI Guide Leon Davis led the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team will descend back to camp for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow, they will descend to Paradise before returning to Ashford in the afternoon. Congratulations Summit Climb and Seminar Climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck Dad!! stay safe! I love you❤️

Posted by: Maranda Sears on 6/24/2015 at 7:41 pm

Congrats to John Stout and team.  It sounds like it was a great trek except for wind. Safe travels down to Paradise!
Teena

Posted by: Teena McDonald on 6/9/2015 at 8:23 pm


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Getting Strong at 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2015, 6:16 pm PT Not too much to report from camp today. The weather was moderate, but not good enough to coax us out for a walk or carry up hill. At this point the team is just focusing on resting, meeting the neighbors and getting ready to utilize the next window of good weather. Speaking of neighbors, the most exciting news of the day is that we are joining Tyler Jones' team for dinner tonight. After ten days on the glacier together, the whole team is ready to interact with some new faces and hear new stories. Tyler's team was nice enough to invite invite us over for a round of loaded quesadillas. The only remaining question is what we should take as a house warming gift. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Looks like it is going to be a good time while having a great climb. 

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/10/2015 at 10:54 am

Sounds like a big RMI shindig.  I certainly hope Pete brought his guitar for dinner entertainment purposes.

What?  He left it home?  Are you kidding me?

Good luck to you all.

Art Muir

Posted by: Art Muir on 6/9/2015 at 2:06 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ascend Fixed Lines

June 8, 2015, 4:37 pm PT Firing the Fixed lines! Today it was a good day. We woke in the bitter cold at 14 camp and slowly rose from our warm down feathers. With coffee and a bowl of granola we clipped in to our ropes. Finding rather pleasant walking conditions, we smoothly flowed up the slopes below the Headwall then gained the fixed lines up to 16,200ft. Our last 20 minutes up the lines provided brisk winds and motivated our super strong team to depart the lines and pass the ridge where the winds became a light breeze. This was a welcome way to spend our break and unload our final cache of food and fuel for our summit push! The team prepared for the descent back down in the brisk wind. With the confidence of great mountaineers we smoothly cruised down to our camp. Then a session with our grand lunch sacks along with a well deserved afternoon nap. The evening will be a group dinner with the West Rib crew. Likely to consist of big fried quesadillas laughter and friendships forged! Till tomorrow, Positive Vibes! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann & Chase Nelson

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ken,
We’re all pulling for you and the team. Enjoy your last few days on the mountain.Looking forward to all the stories.
Jim

Posted by: Jim Rowe on 6/9/2015 at 4:55 pm

Ken, you and the team are getting closer every day. I am excited for you. Hang in there, enjoy the journey as you pursue that dream. Thoughts, prayers, and positive vibes all headed your way.
Dennis

Posted by: Dennis on 6/9/2015 at 7:57 am


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Builds a Snow Fortress

June 8, 2015, 10:59 am PT After a strenuous day getting to 14 Camp yesterday, we slept in this morning. The sun crept into camp around 9:15 am and we slow crawled out of our tents shortly thereafter. The weather today was pretty good but the forecast is calling for some more snow and wind so we spent the day building giant snow walls around our camp and resting. The team is doing very well and acclimating well. If the weather is good tomorrow we might go do a short walk up the West Rib but either way we are dug in here at 14,200' and are ready for whatever the weather gods allow us to do. That's all for now. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hi Kim!  We missed you this weekend and are looking forward to hearing from you!  Hope the climb starts going better!  Love, momma

Posted by: jane Lubow on 6/8/2015 at 6:24 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Summit Climbs Reach the Summit!

RMI Guide Zeb Blais led the Five Day Summit Climb June 4 - 8 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The Four Day Summit Climb June 5 - 8 was led by Mike Haugen. Both teams reached the summit early this morning. They were beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. Zeb reported pleasant weather with winds from the west. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short time before continuing their descent to Paradise and returning to Ashford. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all! Te amo mucho Papi!

Posted by: kathey doll on 6/9/2015 at 8:28 am

Waiting for some picture posts from the Mount Rainier RMI Expedition Team that formed their climb from Ashland on Saturday 6/6, then on Sunday 6/7 training in Paradise,  then to Camp Muir on Monday 6/8, and to the summit on Tuesday 6/9…...Hope all is Splendor for you each!!!!

Posted by: Roxanne Jones on 6/9/2015 at 7:59 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team’s First Night at 14K Camp

June 7, 2015, 9:45 pm PT After surviving our first chilly night at 14K Camp, everyone walked into the posh this morning to the sweet smell of blueberry pancakes. Cooking at 14,000ft is quite difficult on any day but Tyler made pancakes that would have made Grandpa Jerry proud. Post breakfast we took advantage of the nice weather and prepared our camp for a nuclear winter. Hopefully the weather will stay nice but if not we are prepared for the worst. After our wall building session we did some more training for the upper mountain. The guides set up a fixed-line obstacle course that everyone marched around in like a group of trained gorillas. Tomorrow we hope to carry to the top of the fixed lines, but as always, we will see what Mother Nature brings. RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats to all for your new found height! I am in awe of all. Went golfing in Victor Utah today. Sunny and 76 is good anywhere I suppose

Posted by: Frank Suring on 6/8/2015 at 4:26 pm

Everyone I know that knows you has their fingers crossed for good weather to hold.

Posted by: Mike Taylor on 6/8/2015 at 8:43 am

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