Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Last night was a windy one, though when we woke we realized that it sounded much worse inside the tents than it was outside. A couple centimeters of new snow fell overnight freshening up our surroundings, but it was quickly transported by the wind with much of it ending up in the vestibules of our tents. With some sun above and winds not too bad, we decided to make our carry to
Camp 2 to cache food and personal gear. As we hoped, the winds stayed relatively light, and we had a pleasant climb. Throughout this climb, we have been just behind a large crowd, so that we hear rumors of camps being full, but arrive to find them deserted. It appeared today that everyone had just vacated
Camp 2 for high camp. This works in our favor as we don't have to fight for tent sites.
As we began our descent, the winds strengthened, with several strong gusts. We were all happy to get back to the tents and crawl into fluffy sleeping bags for the afternoon to recover from yet another big effort. With a great meal of tortellini sticking to our ribs, everyone is psyched for the scheduled rest day tomorrow.
Cheers,
Aconcagua Campo Uno residents
On The Map
Jambo (Hello) from Africa,
The team arrived late last night after some very long flights (18hrs). We wasted no time getting back to the hotel and called it a night after a quick dinner. This morning we had our team meeting and discussed the upcoming climb and gear needed. We then took a break and enjoyed a little sunshine by the pool. Its basically summer here and most of us are on vacation after all. After lunch we took a short ride into Arusha and did a little sightseeing.
Arusha is busy city of 300'000+ with a very rural and simple feeling. The team has just finished a wonderful 5 course meal provided by the
Dik Dik Hotel and are headed off to bed.
We'll be getting up early and headed for the trailhead tomorrow so that all for tonight.
RMI Guide
Casey Grom & Team
We made the move to
Aconcagua Camp 1! We're now resting in our tents at 16800' or so. The group did great and climbed strong. When we woke, there were clouds over the summit, and towards the end of our first stretch, a sudden snow squall blew threw, sending us scrambling for our hard shells. For the next couple of hours, sun alternated with clouds, making it hard to choose the correct layers. Just as we got ready for the last hard climb up a scree hill to camp, the snow set in in earnest. The group did great getting camp set quickly so everyone could get into shelter. We're settled in for the night now, and our hope is to wake to nice weather so that we can bump a cache of food and gear to
Camp 2 tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and crew
On The Map
It's been a lazy day here at Plaza Argentina, which was exactly what the doctor ordered after the group's big effort yesterday. We woke late, cooked up a big batch of crêpes stuffed with bacon, fried apples, and dulce de leche for brunch. A few hours later, after books, more jokes, and a card game, we fried up some croque monsieur (sense the French food theme today?), and then went for a nice hour-long stroll up towards Ibañez, a sub peak outside of
Basecamp. As hard as it can be to motivate for a hike after a day like yesterday, it really does aid and speed recovery. Our gear that will stay at Basecamp is sorted, and we are very ready for our move to
Camp 1 tomorrow! Just one more delicious Argentine meal first...
Hasta luego,
RMI Guides Pete, Leon, Mike, and the team
Today the group woke to a cold and snow covered base camp. In preparation of our carry to Camp 1 the team received their loads yesterday. We started walking after breakfast and hot drinks. Our goal today was to cache our food and equipment for the upper mountain, while climbing higher then descending to help acclimate. Climbing through loose scree with heavy packs is always an eye opener for what lies ahead. The team climbed strong and enjoyed a blue sky with light winds. We spent an hour at 16,000+ before returning down to
Aconcagua Basecamp as an evening storm approached. There is a day off tomorrow, which the entire team is looking forward to.
Cheers
RMI Guide Mike King and crew
On The Map
Despite being a rest day, today has flown by for the group. We were able to sleep in a bit, but most were woken at 7:30 to the park helicopter hovering low over camp, picking up barrels in a sling to be flown off the mountain. We took a leisurely breakfast of burritos with fresh veggies, bacon, cheese, and eggs, and then headed to the medical building for our obligatory check-up. Everyone passed with flying colors. Then it was time for gear sorting for our carry to
Camp 1 tomorrow. This often takes longer than expected as everyone hemmed and hawed over how much lunch food and other items to bring up. To this point, we have been spoiled with the mules carrying most of our kit. From here up though, anything we bring up, we will carry down.
Sorting finished, everyone took a siesta, eating lunch, taking naps, playing cards, and reciting Chuck Norris jokes. Despite a forecast of clear weather for the foreseeable future, the clouds built this afternoon, and as we sit, it is snowing gently at
Basecamp.
We'll have more news tomorrow when we are back from our carry. Ciao.
RMI Guides Mike King, Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, and the team
We made it to our base camp at
Plaza Argentina! We got an early start this morning in order to take advantage of the muleteers offer to ferry us across the Vacas River. For some, it was their first time riding a mule, and it was a much more pleasant start to the morning than wading the four frosty channels would have been.
It's a pleasant walk up the canyon of the Relinchos River, and before we knew it, we were walking into
Base Camp to be greeted with juice and fresh melon from our excellent outfitter, Grajales. They cooked a wonderful dinner for us tonight and will handle our meals for our stay at Base Camp.
On tap for tomorrow is a well deserved rest day. We'll use the time to sort gear for the carry to
Camp 1 the following day. Before all that though: a big breakfast of breakfast burritos.
Hasta luego.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the RMI Aconcagua team
On The Map
Hola from
Casa de Piedras! Today's weather was a total contrast to yesterday's, as we wound our way further up the Vacas Valley. We woke this morning to clear skies that turned to sun as it cleared the canyon walls. It made for a pleasant walk as we covered the nine miles or so from camp last night. A light breeze helped to keep things from getting too hot.
The trail crosses the river over a small foot bridge immediately out of camp. Once on the opposite bank, it alternates between following the river bank, and rising over a chain of small bluffs.
Casa de Piedras is located at the mouth of the Relinchos Valley and river. Tomorrow we will cross the Vacas, and leave this valley behind as we ascend the Relinchos to base camp at 14,000 feet. Everyone is in great spirits (it's amazing the power that big orb in the sky has) and sends their best. Tomorrow we'll touch base from
Plaza Argentina!
Cheers,
RMI Guide
Pete Van Deventer and Team
Ecuador Skills Seminar 2013 is coming to a close. Although we did not attempt to climb the tallest of our three chosen mountains which should have taken place today, we settled for a 17,500 foot consolation prize, Illiniza Sur. We left our hostel this morning at 1 am and began the two hour approach to the hut at 1:45. Forty five minutes into the hike we had to stop and don rain gear to ward off the cold mist that was beginning to soak us. By the time we reached the hut the mist had turned to snow. Sadly the weather was not the only thing going south. By the time we were ready to depart, Jaime our local guide was too ill to continue, Suzanne was too knackered from her battle with a loose gut and Jan began to have stomach cramps. By the time we filed out, only Gary and Clark were able to ascend with both
Casey and myself. With a one to one ratio the steep, technical terrain we encountered was greatly entertaining. Not to mention the weather broke just as we were approaching the glacier. From bottom to top and back again, this climb was a fantastic way to end our time together as a climbing team. I am really bummed we could not all stand on top together but tonight we become a party team. It is always important to remember the summit isn't everything. Tonight we are all ready for a grand fiesta of both food and spirits. Our time in Ecuador has been packed with good laughs, good climbing and great people. We will miss it. But now we are all deeply anticipating the reunion with family friends and ice climbing. Thanks to everyone who followed along and gave support. Hasta mañana.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Good evening ladies and gentlemen from the team at Pampa de Leñas. Yesterday we left the hot and humid climate in Mendoza for
Los Penitentes where we enjoyed our last night in a warm bed and feasted in the Hotel Ayelen dining hall. This morning we began our hike into the Vacas Valley under some un-characteristic weather indeed. Instead of a clear blue sky and unrelenting sun, we left Punta de Vacas in a light rain and cool breeze. But as we pressed on, the rain soon subsided and we enjoyed a pleasant hike into camp where we had our tents up by 4:30 and dinner by 6:30. The team did a great job on this first day and we look forward to sunny skies tomorrow as we continue up the Vacas Valley to our next camp at the 'House of Stone'.
Hope everyone enjoyed their Monday; we certainly enjoyed ours.
Until Tuesday...
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
On The Map
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Hey Pete…Another 2012 Climber checking in…Great to read your colorful 2013 accounts…Spent last three weeks daily reading my journal entries from last year…Why is your name on every other page !...Thx again for all your support…Godspeed…Waltero
Posted by: Waltero on 1/29/2013 at 7:33 am
Hi Pete!
Hard to believe it’s been a year since we were down there together (makes me want to start coughing). I leave in two weeks to join Casey Grom on Kilimanjaro.
I wish you and the team a safe journey up and down that big rock pile.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 1/28/2013 at 5:16 pm
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