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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Carry and Rest

May 29: Holy guacamole, another sabbath (day of rest) here at 14 camp. Definitely well-deserved after yesterday's hard work getting a cache in up on the West Buttress. We spent the day hanging out and worrying about ambiguous weather forecasts, philosophizing as usual, and helping Mike Walter's crew get settled in and reinvigorated after their successful summit push yesterday. Our plan is to make our move up to high camp at 17,000' tomorrow and hopefully put ourselves in a good position to take a crack at the summit in the near future. The weather is a definite concern but with a little luck the team will hopefully be standing on top in the next few days! Lots of hard work lies ahead. Wish us luck, RMI Guide Billy Nugent and the gang May 28: Caching at Washburn's thumb A clear and cold morning slowly gave way to a hot climb to the fixed lines. As we managed our layers we climbed higher gaining better views of Mount Hunter and Foraker. Ascending the fixed lines with out incident we reached the West Buttress proper and began climbing towards Washburn's thumb. Picking our way through rock outcroppings and steep snow ridges with GoPros rolling we made our cache at 4:00 PM. Retracing our steps we reached the fixed lines and descended into the afternoon clouds. A long day concluded back at 14 camp with Indian Fare, rice, and hot drinks. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

George,
we have been following your progress. We weren’t able to write from Pinetop but could log on at the rec center and see where you and the other two teams are at. Laura says it seems as if the trail never ends…Kids miss you. I do, too. God’s willing the weather cooperates for your summit. take a lot of photos.
Hugs and kisses from the three of us

Posted by: janina on 5/30/2012 at 8:41 pm

To Paul from Chloe:
I can’t wait for you to get to the top & come home.  I really miss you. xoxo air kiss and air hug

Posted by: Regan on 5/30/2012 at 6:23 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir

Hi this is Seth and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir. Today we climbed the Muir snowfield. We began at 9:45 a.m. from Paradise (elev. 5,420') and spent the day in the clouds with light snow flurries. It made for nice walking temperatures throughout the day and the sun actually came out to welcome us into Camp Muir (elev. 10,000). Everyone is enjoying their dinner now and getting ready for our first night at Muir! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Carry Above 11 Camp

Awakening early this morning we were surprised at just how warm and windless it was. At first our views were obscured by thick clouds, but moments later we could recognize the faint outlines of the ridges above us and realized that in fact we were at the top edge of a thick cloud bank enveloping the Kahiltna below us. Everyone was excited, and perhaps just a bit anxious about the climbing ahead. After all, we were to face our steepest terrain yet. Now, in our tent after a wonderful meal of pasta followed by blueberry cheese cake, all I can say is how proud I am of how this team climbed today! Everyone handled the loads and the climbing really well. About as well as I've seen. This sure bodes well for later. We really appreciated the early start being over an hour ahead of any other team. It felt like we had the mountain to ourselves, and we did. That is, until we descended and saw the throngs of humanity ascending the slopes we had passed long before. At dinner many in the group reflected on what they saw and asked, "Did we look like that?" referring to the hunched over postures of people battling altitude, steep terrain and a notable lack of technique and training. We were delighted to say, "no, you guys are climbers!" RMI Guides Brent Okita, Leon Davis & Lindsay Mann

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds like you are doing great Gary! Enjoy!

Posted by: Matt Rhoads on 5/30/2012 at 7:12 am

Hey ” AA “, I wonder how the tap in your bedroom it is been abused by extrangers, but been so nice (ME), I am still very proud of all of you ...keep going strong and Good Luck…...I hope you have your car key too ......

Posted by: Paco on 5/29/2012 at 9:39 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Summit!

This is Mike calling down from 17,200 on Denali. We reached the summit yesterday at about 7 p.m. on the most beautiful day I’ve ever seen up here – comfortably warm and no winds! We are cooking up a nice breakfast right now and plan on beginning our descent soon. Looking forward to seeing Billy and team at 14,000' and Brent and team at 11,000'. We plan on making it to 11K today, and then heading for the Kahiltna airstrip on Tuesday morning. Weather allowing, we hope to fly off on Tuesday. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

were are you guys?  Hope you had a restful day.  ET phone home!!!!  Love bob Enjoy the time you have on the mountain.  Love you tons mom xoxo (Maile)

Posted by: Ginny and bob on 5/29/2012 at 6:56 pm

Amazing accomplishment-kudos to you Mike and your team! Glad that you made it to the summit safely and with such pleasant weather! So glad your Mom forwarded the news to me.Always happy to hear about your endeavors. All the best to you and your group!
Aunt D

Posted by: Mike Walter and team on 5/29/2012 at 5:16 pm


Mt. Rainier: May 28th Update

The Four Day Summit Climb May 25 - 28, 2012, led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Kel Rossiter reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported moderate westerly winds and cold temperatures. The skies were clear above with a cloud deck below around 10,000'. The teams began their descent at 9:31 a.m. from the crater rim en route to Camp Muir. They will continue to Paradise this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Feeling Strong at 11,200

Today was a good day. The sun peeked thru the clouds timidly at best, with snow spitting occasionally and clouds being more the norm. But that didn't deter us from enjoying another easy day with a thirty minute walk back to the cache we left at 9,500' leading to a pleasant romp back to camp in the early afternoon. With the days work behind us we had only to review some climbing basics with our ice axes and crampons to get ready for tomorrow. It is beginning with the terrain above that the real climbing starts. And we're ready for it. Lighter packs and steeper slopes will be a welcome respite from the slogging done thus far. Our last fresh food meal of burritos revealed that everyone was feeling strong here at 11,200' as the team left nothing uneaten. We'd love just a bit more settled weather for our climb up Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill and Windy Corner on our way to our cache site at 13,600', but I suppose if we just have calm weather we'll be happy. At eight hours round trip this will be our longest day, and our first day of higher altitude, but I know the team is ready for it. We'll leave you with a little poem Lindsay composed: "With sleds in our pack We take the downhill track. Zipping to 9500' for the cache We grab the food stash. Back to 11 we go With light weight sleds in tow. Tomorrow we will carry up the hill And hope to continue our good weather fill" Until tomorrow, RMI Guides Brent Okita, Leon Davis and Lindsay Mann

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Audrey and Doug - I’m thrilled to hear that things seem to be going well for you guys so far.  I have been thinking of you and I’m sending good thoughts as you continue onward and upward.  Good luck to you both and to the whole team.  I’ll be watching the blog for more updates. Stay safe and have fun! xoxo

Posted by: Liz Millman on 5/28/2012 at 10:27 pm


Mt. Rainier: May 27th Update

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Tyler Jones reached the summit this morning! This was our first summit since May 20th. The team began their descent from the crater rim at 9:15 a.m. Congratulations to Tyler and his team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

thx Tyler for the amazing trip. and pls say hi for me to your teammates!

Posted by: Dan Pan on 5/29/2012 at 4:02 pm

Way to go TJ.  See you in a couple of days!

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/27/2012 at 10:20 pm


Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Do Well on Move to 11,200’ Camp

With packs lightened down after leaving a cache at 9500', the team made easy work on the climb to 11,200' camp today. Our three and a half hour jaunt was made all the nicer by bluebird skies and sunny warm temperatures. To top things off we moved into a nice campsite that required minimal work. Although its snowing lightly again, we are looking forward to another easier day tomorrow, where we will retrieve our cache from 9500'. That's all from 11,200 feet. RMI Guides Lindsay Mann, Leon Davis and Brent Okita

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Gary,  All is well here.  It was obvious to us that you didn’t plan the days hike!  Only three and a half hours!  LOL. We love you and miss you.  Angela and Ian

Posted by: Angela Rennie on 5/29/2012 at 6:20 am

Kristen- thinking of you every day! Hope you’re having the time of your life! Only three and a half hours of walking for the day? Is this making Mauna Kea look hard?
Miss you. Be safe and love you!!!

Posted by: Timothy Kelliher MD on 5/28/2012 at 6:13 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Enjoy a Rest Day

A rest day! Yay! We did such amazing things as sleeping in, more turbo tanning, sport eating, walking out to the Edge of the World, more sport eating, fixed line practice, and packing for tomorrow's carry up the fixed lines. Per the norm, the team is in good spirits but perhaps a bit anxious for tomorrow. The weather is supposed to be in and out for the extended forecast so we are planning to stick to our schedule until we are forced to wait. Hoping for a great day tomorrow, once we get this cache in we will be on standby for good weather and hopefully pulling the trigger on our move to high camp and subsequent summit push... RMI Guide Billy Nugent and friends

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello GRD from AOMS in Tucson Arizona. We are thinking of you and tracking your progress. Your almost to the top!!! WooHoo!!! Looking forward to the Summit pictures, stories and your safe return!
Enjoy every moment!!! :)

Posted by: Robin Alexander on 5/29/2012 at 9:22 am

Hi Donny.  We are so proud of you.  The whole family in St Louis is following your team’s progress.  Uncle Jim

Posted by: Jim on 5/29/2012 at 5:40 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Team Almost to Basecamp

Update 2:45 pm Nepali time: Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot and team are 20 minutes from camp, so they are safely through the Khumbu Icefall! I will still keep track of the Sherpa team that is still higher up on the mountain. They need to go back up to Camp 1 either tomorrow or the next day for final loads off the mountain. Until everyone is clear of the upper mountain, I will be here in communication with the Sherpa team. What a Climb! RMI Guide and Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mark,

Thanks so much for all the updates and a hearty congrats to you, Dave, Melissa, and your team! You may not remember, Mark, but my wife and I met you on Everest 2010 and most recently coming down the Mweka Route on all of our last day on Kili last August. We enjoyed chatting with you.

Best,
Brandon & Kristine Chalk

Posted by: Brandon Chalk on 5/29/2012 at 2:36 pm

Great news! Thanks for the update.

Posted by: jeff d on 5/28/2012 at 4:18 am

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