Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Team Turns at 13,500’

June 9, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 13,500'

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Christina Dale reached High Break at 13,500' on Mt. Rainier before high winds forced the team to turn. Dave reported very strong winds and clouds above and below the them. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

WOW!.... have a safe and a fabulous climb!

Posted by: Wyatt Lucy J. on 6/11/2018 at 6:48 am

I was very impressed with your leadership during our difficult situation with the storm. Thanks for a memorable and safe experience!

Posted by: Harrison Filler on 6/9/2018 at 11:44 pm

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Alaska Alpine Climbing: Elias & Team Check in from the Pika Glacier

June 9, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Alaska Seminar

Good evening from the Pika Glacier, on the Alaska Range! We had a great first day of activity today. We had a late afternoon flight in yesterday, and the pertinent camp building marathon. Today, with blue skies, we ventured down Glacier to the "Hobbit's Footstool" rock formation for practice; besides some rock climbing-cragging, we reviewed a lot the rope systems that we'll be implementing in the upcoming days. Everyone enjoyed their time on the glacier and rocks, but the hit today was definitely the steak dinner. We're now headed to bed, waiting for a better day of fun on this incredible area of the Alaska Range! Regards RMI Guide Elias and the Alpine Climbing Team.

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Carry to High Camp

June 9, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Friday June 8, 2018 8:37 PM The Jones Team had an excellent and hard day getting our cache established at 17 Camp! The cold morning had us clawing our toes to keep them warm but by our first break of the day we hit the sunshine to warm us up. Our practice yesterday in camp had us dialed to send it right up the fixed lines with style and in good time. The weather was beautiful on the ridge, with sun and no wind, it allowed us to continue climbing higher to deliver our supplies to 17,200 ft. The descent was just as exhausting but we are back at 14,000' camp cooking up dinner to replenish ourselves from the effort. Tomorrow calls for a rest day before we await our window for our summit bid! The forecast is calling for high winds on the summit through the weekend so we may be waiting down here at 14 camp till early next week. Either way some rest and further acclimatization will be beneficial and we are ready when our chance comes! RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

Denali Expedition: Hailes and Team Summit!

June 9, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

Friday, June 8, 2018 9:18 PM Hello friends and family from the summit of Denali! This is Walter Hailes and the climbing team with Alden, Chip, Brett and Tyler had a successful summit day today and we are enjoying a beautiful, sunny, almost windless summit. Couldn't get any better. We got to climb with Pete Van Deventer and team and had a good time switching leads with them. We got to enjoy lots of fun summit photos and beautiful blue skies with Pete and Team. We are back at camp now, we're going to have a late dinner. We are probably going to wake up pretty late in the morning and head back to 14,000' Camp. We will keep you informed with our dispatches until we talk to you again. A lot of love and safe travels. We'll talk to you soon. Bye. RMI Guide Walter Hailes & Team!

Walter Hailes on the Summit of Denali June 8, 2018

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Congratulation fellas! A great accomplishment for a worthy cause! All the best. D.

Posted by: Dirk Gilliard on 6/18/2018 at 2:27 pm

Way to go Chippy and Alden! So proud of you guys! Be safe heading down and can’t wait to hear all about it over a nice cold beer on our patio! xxoo Stacey (& Sean)

Posted by: Stacey Wieland on 6/10/2018 at 9:13 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

June 9, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

Saturday, June 9, 2018 1:04 AM The couple weeks of hauling massive loads, sitting through snow storms, sunburns, and eating way too much bacon culminated in that fleeting joy of standing on the summit of Denali this afternoon! Our forecasts have been a bit vague, and sometimes less than confidence inspiring, but we woke up this morning to stellar conditions. It was clear, calm as a koala with a full belly of eucalyptus, and the sun promised to warm things from the forecasted overnight temp of -25. We made our way across the autobahn, glad to see the sun part way across. We ticked off the stretches: zebra rocks, arch deacons tower, the football field, pig hill, and the iconic summit ridge. After 8.5 hours of climbing, we were standing on the summit! It was a warm, beautiful day, with an intense sky of clouds that had built at all levels, making surrounding Alaska incredibly dramatic. After our photos and some time, it was time to head home. We are safely back in camp working on a late dinner. Tomorrow we hope to descend to the land of oxygen and warmer temps, hopefully 11,000' or 7600' camp. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and Team

On The Map

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Way to go Henry and Caleb! Awesome achievement. Look forward to hearing details when you get back.

Posted by: Charles Platt on 6/11/2018 at 1:53 pm

MANY congratulations to the whole TEAM!! That’s an awesome effort by one and all - look forward to hearing details from Henry and Caleb and seeing lots of pictures. Thank you to the guides!!
Gran/Mom

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 6/11/2018 at 1:30 pm

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Denali Expedition: King and Team Cache at 9,700’

June 8, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,700'

Friday, June 8, 2018 - 3:15 PM PT The clouds cleared after dinner last night with expansive views of the lower Kahiltna Glacier. We were able to see the descending RMI Group after their successful summit and glean some route info. With the surrounding peaks providing the backdrop, we set off at 5:30 AM for 9700' on the glacier. The route ascends Ski Hill, think fun blue run at a resort. Our goal was to cache food and fuel to make the move to Camp 2 lighter. We took a lot of breaks to take pictures and not over do it after yesterday's heavy day. We are all back in camp at 7800' drying our boots and enjoying the heat on the tents. The plan is to eat, sleep then move to 11,200' tomorrow. We'll take advantage of the cooler temps and leave before 5 AM. The route is in incredible shape with lots of snow and a well traveled route. The climb doesn't get easier but these first 5 days of getting in position to climb above 11,200' are tough on the hips, feet and shoulders. Still keeping our fingers crossed while we listen to bush planes fly overhead. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

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Following your climb as Scott’s mom is a life long friend. Scott I hear my son tell her baseball players “you have the best equipment money can by, you have the talent and are physically fit, s just .....hit the f——-g ball. I think you have all those things and more so jus climb the mountain. May your God be with each of you and keep you safe.

Glenda Bemis

Posted by: Glenda Bemis on 6/10/2018 at 4:38 pm

Climb on Scott!

Posted by: Chris Beaudette on 6/9/2018 at 10:56 am

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank and Team Spend One Last Day in La Paz

June 8, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 11,942'

Friday, June 8, 2018 - 1:00 PM PT Hard rain overnight added to our adventure this morning as we loaded up in our land cruisers and navigated the Bolivian country side. At one point a bridge had washed out and we were forced to navigate a river bed. Much like scouting a rapid on a river, we were forced to send scouts with radios ahead to find our way. But don’t worry we’re all safely in La Paz enjoying the comforts of a shower, internet and even street side shoe cleaners to clean off our dirty shoes. We’ll enjoy one last group dinner tonight with the whole group. This trip would not have been possible without the help our amazing Bolivian staff. They’ve become like family to us and it’ll be our honor to treat them tonight for one final celebration! RMI Guide Andy Bond

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to High Camp, 17,000’

June 8, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Friday, June 8, 2018 - 9:27 AM PT It's been a long day so this will be short, but we woke up to calm conditions above and decided to pull the trigger on our move to High Camp at 17,000'. As we got out of camp, it started to snow and had us a bit nervous about conditions on the Buttress, but as we crested the fixed lines, winds were calm. We walked through snow for the whole day, but it stayed warm and calm, and we rolled into 17,000ft, set up camp, and are ready to go for the summit tomorrow should the opportunity present! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Raj, did you get any summit pics? Hope you didn’t forget to snap a few. -E.

Posted by: erik dietz on 6/9/2018 at 11:53 am

Can’t believe you are so close to the Summit. Scott, here’s to great success, joy beyond belief when you get there and a safe journey down. Congrats to you and all the other climbers and guides.

Glenda Bemis

Posted by: Glenda Bemis on 6/9/2018 at 5:23 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Reach Summit!

June 8, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Hannah McGowan led today's Four Day Summit Climb to the summit of Mt. Rainier. They reported cold and windy conditions today but not enough to turn them around. They will return to Camp Muir for a quick rest and repack and then will continue down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

A great experience climbing Mount Rainier with RMI. A great group of mountain climbers and our guides were amazing. Can’t wait to return to the Pacific North West for some more climbing in the future.

Posted by: Paul Dobrzynski on 6/12/2018 at 6:41 pm

Thomas Merrill, Cannot wait to have word of your experience!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: denise wooden on 6/8/2018 at 12:59 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Move to High Camp

June 8, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Thursday, June 7, 2018 - 11:27 PM PT Well, we left our cozy home at 14,000 ft on Denali this morning. When we woke, we had clear views of the route, and could see that winds were calm. As we packed up and started moving, visibility decreased and snow started to fall. We slowly poked our noses a little further, halfway expecting the weather to turn us around, but it never did. It snowed most of the day, but it was relatively warm, and winds were very light. It was almost perfect, we just missed out on the views. Regardless, we have settled in to our new neighborhood, and are enjoying the warm 10 PM sun. We just finished dinner, and are tucking into our sleeping bags to stay nice and toasty. If the weather allows, we'll go for the summit tomorrow morning. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go get em! Enjoy the views from the summit ridge on top of North America. Check out Mt Huntington and then read “Mountain of my fear” in the plane ride home.

Posted by: Tom Romary on 6/9/2018 at 7:37 am

Tyler and team, we hope you reached all of your goals today. We are looking forward to having you home soon to share all of your stories and pictures! Love and miss you! Praying for all of you, mom and dad

Posted by: donna shearburn on 6/9/2018 at 6:23 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Team Turns at 13,500’

Alaska Alpine Climbing: Elias & Team Check in from the Pika Glacier

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Carry to High Camp

Denali Expedition: Hailes and Team Summit!

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

On The Map

Denali Expedition: King and Team Cache at 9,700’

On The Map

Bolivia Expedition: Frank and Team Spend One Last Day in La Paz

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to High Camp, 17,000’

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Reach Summit!

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Move to High Camp

On The Map

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