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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Ecuador: Nugent and Team Recap Summit of Cayambe

All smiles on the summit of Cayambe! Our strong team made short work of Cayambe today and were on the summit in about 6 hours and 45 minutes after leaving the refugio. Conditions were very firm on the glacier and when combined with fair weather and almost no wind it made for a quick trip up. A rope length of steep snow and ice just below the summit required some front pointing and a belay especially because the runout emptied into a giant chasm of a bergschrund. A little ice climbing is always nice to keep you on your toes. The sun came up at some point while we were negotiating this steep pitch and we enjoyed the dawn from the summit. We took pictures and exchanged high fives on top and after a short while began our descent because we wanted to pass over several hollow spots on the glacier before the day heated up. Those firm glacier conditions that made the climbing so nice on the way up made the descent a fair bit more taxing. Despite being tired and a bit worked we were back at the refugio just after 10:30 am. A quick pickup and we were headed down the road to meet Victor and jump on the bus for the long ride to the Chilcabamba eco lodge at the base of Cotopaxi. And after a time warp of a bus ride, here we are chilling and filling up on a hot meal with a rest day ahead. Time for sleep... RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team
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Kilimanjaro: Martin & Team Back at the Dik Dik to Celebrate their Success

Hello from the Dik Dik, Our mountain adventure ended today with 10 very happy climbers. Even though we had a very long day yesterday, the team wanted to get an early start and hike down to the Mweka Gate. You could tell that everyone wanted showers as we made record time descending the 4,400' to the end of the trail. You can feel it is the last day as porters are ready to get paid, and the climbers are still on the high of summiting yesterday. We had a big lunch spread waiting for us at the gate and then we tipped out our mountain crew for all their hard work over the last seven days. Now we are back at the hotel and sitting down for drinks before our celebration dinner. We are all cleaned up and have packed away all our mountain gear. Tomorrow we are heading out on our safari. The perfect way to recover from the physical effort expended to reach the top of Kilimanjaro. First stop is Lake Manyara! Best regards, RMI Guide Jeff Martin
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wooo Hooo

Congrats you guys. Way to go.

xo Beck

Posted by: becky on 2/22/2014 at 12:06 pm

Holly and Chris, CONGRATS on the summit!!  Enjoy the Safari
-Adam

Posted by: Adam on 2/18/2014 at 6:37 am


Ecuador: Nugent & Team Summit Cayambe!

Hey everybody! It's Billy here checking in for Garrett, Jaime and the rest of the crew. We are on the summit of Cayambe right now with clear skies and calm winds. Enjoying a perfect day. That's all to report really. We will be headed down shortly here and wish us luck for us a safe descent. All is well, bye bye. RMI Guide Billy Nugent


RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls from the Cayambe summit!

On The Map

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Way to go Dad!  We love you!
Anne, Sarah, Jake and Abe

Posted by: Jen Blodgett on 2/18/2014 at 11:48 am

Woohoo!  Go team, go!

Posted by: Amy on 2/18/2014 at 8:43 am


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Decide to Wait a Day Before Summit Bid

Decisions, decisions! After some careful thought the team had decided to spend one more day at high camp before attempting the summit. We all had a tough day battling new snow and breaking trail to make it here. There's no need to exhaust ourselves and ruin our chances at the summit. Tomorrow is supposed to be an even nicer day. And after a full day of eating, drinking and relaxing we all should be more recovered to give the summit our all. RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

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So close, Rich! Hang in there! I hope the weather holds out and you all summit tomorrow! Love you very much and miss you! Will see you very soon!
Good luck to you and the team!
Love, Susie

Posted by: Susie on 2/18/2014 at 10:43 am

Good morning Brenda ( Sweetie Pie) :-) today is the big day to the summit team 7 goes!!  Have fun drink water .  The Jay an I are in LV with Travis he says hello all A’s eight classes!  Have fun today love you, Richie & Sea Jay. Xxxxxooooxx

Posted by: Rich larscheid on 2/18/2014 at 5:09 am


Mexico: Schellens & Team Acclimatize on La Malinche

La Malinche summit! Today was a busy day. After a fantastic breakfast at our hotel in Mexico City we met our driver and loaded the van to the brim with all our gear. By 9:00 we were bumping along the streets working our way out of the city and towards the hills. After a few hours we found ourselves winding through the forests on the flanks of La Malinche. We arrived at La Malintzi, an old Olympic training facility at 10,000 feet around noon and stowed our bags in our cabins. With day packs packed and the noonday sun warming us, we started our acclimatization hike. After two hours hiking through the forest, we broke out of the trees and began climbing up the scree trail to gain the ridge. At 4:30 we found ourselves on the summit of La Malinche, 14,640'. Higher than any point in the continental United States. With perfect weather we began our descent scree skiing through the sandy section and back into the forest. Happy and tired we all enjoyed our delicious dinner back at La Malintzi and headed to bed for some well-deserved rest. Thanks for following us. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

On The Map

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team at High Camp

It was a day. We awoke to a foot of snow and 30mph winds at Aconcagua's Camp 2, brr! After a slow morning breaking down camp we headed uphill through wind and snow toward Camp 3. It was hard going and the team had to dig deep to get to high camp, but everyone walked in together, heads high and looking forward to the next challenge. Tomorrow, we go for the summit! RMI Guide Katrina Bloemsma

On The Map

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Hi sweetie hope U had a nice day of relaxing!  Looks like better weather will make the summit experience all the sweeter,  Love you, miss you,  Richie &. Sea Jay. Xxxxxxoooo

Posted by: Rich larscheid on 2/17/2014 at 7:46 pm

Hoping this email finds you full of thrills and cheers and at the summit! Keeping you and yours in my thought!
Stay safe and full-up with incredible memories…Diane

Posted by: Diane Hart on 2/17/2014 at 1:56 pm


Ecuador: Nugent & Team Ready for Cayambe’s Summit Bid

Woke up this morning to beautiful blue skies up here at the Cayambe hut with views of the mountain, Antisana in the distance, and a sea of clouds blanketing the lowlands. It was a bit of a rough night being our first evening sleeping at over 15,000' but everyone took it in steed and felt much better once we were moving around and enjoying a not so rustic breakfast. After downing breakfast burritos and coffee we packed up for a day of training and set out from the hut for the glacier. After about an hour and change of scrambling up a buttress, we hit the glacier and geared up with helmets, harnesses, ice axes, and crampons refreshing up on some of our basic climbing skills. Clouds came in and out, we chilled and boiled... Then headed back to the Refugio to eat dinner and get to bed early for tomorrow's alpine start. If the weather continues doing what it has been we should be poised for a good crack at the summit. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Billy Nugent and the gang

On The Map

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So exciting! Good luck Charlie and the team! Can’t wait to hear how it goes :)

Posted by: Anna on 2/16/2014 at 7:16 pm

Go Dad GO.
Love reading about what you are doing.
Ken, Alex and Sophia

Posted by: Veronica on 2/16/2014 at 7:10 pm


Kilimanjaro: Martin & Team Summit!

Hello from Mweka Camp, We did it! The entire team made it to Uhuru Peak, the Roof of Africa, this morning at 7:30 am. But there were no gimmes today, we fought hard for every step. What started out as fairly decent weather when we woke up, quickly changed as we were about two hours into our climb. At first, it began snowing lightly, but the higher we climbed, the harder the snow fell. The trail was completely covered by the time we reached 18,000'. By Stella Point, the crater rim, it was blowing about 30 mph and 4-6 inches of snow had fallen. Definitely not your typical summit day. Despite the challenges of the weather, the team did great today. We left camp at 12:50 am and were on top at 7:30 am. We only spent about 10 minutes at the summit sign, and then it was time to get back down. The fresh snow made for an interesting descent, and new snow had fallen all the way back to high camp. After changing out of our summit gear, we re-packed our duffels and headed down to Mweka Camp, 5000' below us. We arrived in camp just before 5:00 PM, and our 17-hour day is now over. We are all tried, but in great spirits and looking forward to a good night's rest. Best regards, RMI Guide Jeff Martin

On The Map

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Way to go Boehms!

Posted by: Lindsay on 2/20/2014 at 9:48 am

When the road gets tough, the tough get going!  We bow to your efforts and successes! Enjoy the first of your celebrations and the rest of your journey!
Love,
R&C

Posted by: Rondi Saslow on 2/17/2014 at 9:00 am


Ecuador: Nugent & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

We woke not so early today (this mountaineering gig is rough) had a nice breakfast from the kind folks at Casa Sol and jumped in the bus for the famous Otavalo open air market. We spent a few hours cruising the stalls with food, jewelry, meats, produce, grains, spices, and of course handicrafts for sale. There's even a livestock market which is quite a sight (and smell). Clark and Garrett wanted to go looking for a live monkey to bring home but there was no such luck. I wonder what kind of papers a monkey needs to come back to the states. Anyway, we skipped Otavalo and finally headed for Cayambe where we are settling in up at the hut over 15,000'. The air is thin but everyone's doing great so far. I'll let y'all know how that notorious first night at really high altitude goes... RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Mexico: Geoff Schellens & Team Start Their Adventure

Well after some long travel days getting to Mexico City the whole team met tonight, thus our adventure is underway! We are all excited to be here and get going. After introductions and a trip briefing we all went to La Opera, a beautiful restaurant in historic Mexico City. Enchiladas con salsa verde were fantastic. Now for some packing and prep for tomorrow and a good night sleep. I can already tell this is a great climbing team. That's all for now. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

prayers, tons of love and luck on your adventure dtp!

Posted by: elizabeth on 2/17/2014 at 10:29 am

May the gods smile on your team.

Posted by: Geep on 2/17/2014 at 9:55 am

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