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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Enjoy a Restful Day

Monday, July 1, 2019 - 10:34 PM PT Last night’s snowstorm was short-lived, we got perhaps one inch of new at 14 Camp. Afterward, the bulk of the night was calm and in the morning -with some of the smoke washed out of the sky- we were treated to long distance views of the Chugach Mountains to the SE and to volcanoes 150 miles or more to the South. Reports were that it was still windy high on Denali, but in our sheltered bowl at 14,000 ft it was a calm and easy day. We did a long and lazy breakfast of coffee and pancakes which took us pretty much up to lunch. Then it was time for napping, books, TV or movies on the phones, daydreaming, drinking and eating. An enormous cloud cap formed on the upper mountain and so it wasn’t nearly as hot today as it had been, but the mild temperatures have still made life at 14K considerably easier than usual. We are all for easy. With Mike Haugen’s team waiting up at 17,000 and looking to summit tomorrow, we’ll most likely wait another day at 14,000 so as not to crowd them. The forecast is calling for dry and stable weather, giving us the luxury of dragging feet for better acclimatization before we make the big jump up for our summit bid. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So captivating.

Posted by: Vvkidd on 7/2/2019 at 4:30 pm

Go team!  Great work on the carry to high camp!

Posted by: Ken Porrello on 7/2/2019 at 8:57 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Approaches Summit Crater

RMI Guide Bryan Mazaika and the Five Day Climb are approaching the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. New snow fell overnight but Bryan reports the weather is currently nice and cold up top. The teams will spend some time on the summit before starting their descent. We look forward to seeing them back in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations climbers!
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Go Jamie! You are a rock star. Super stoked for you as well!!!

Posted by: Ryan O. on 7/2/2019 at 7:53 pm

Congrats, Jamie!  What a feat!  So stoked for you!  Much love!!!!

Posted by: Jason Weisberg on 7/2/2019 at 7:17 pm


Gorum & Team Summit Mt. Rainier!

With rain in the lower elevations, we were ecstatic to hear that our Mt. Rainier summit climb team was above the weather system. RMI Guide JM Gorum is the leader of this crew. He radioed in that the rope teams were currently cresting the crater rim. Congratulations to today's summit team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Daddy! Take your time on the way down as I’m still playing Minecraft! ...just kidding.  Love you and can’t wait to see you soon,

Patrick

Posted by: Patrick Evermann on 7/2/2019 at 10:12 am

Congratulations to all.  Can’t wait to hear all about the adventure.  ccc

Posted by: Carol Collins on 7/2/2019 at 9:05 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Waiting on Weather

Monday, July 1, 2019 - 9:24 PM PT Denali is a mountain that definitely tests a group's patience. We woke up around 6 to look at the weather and Denali was still a bit too testy up high for us to make our move. This is to be expected when climbing big mountains and our team has accepted this challenge of waiting like a cobra to strike at our good weather window.... which will hopefully be tomorrow. The team is in great spirits and spent the day resting up and sport eating so we have the energy to get to the summit. Although not as nice as 14k camp, 17k is treating us well. Keep your fingers crossed for us for tomorrow! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete

On The Map

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Well let’s just say, “Buzzard Butthairs” to another day at 17,200, and good for you for patience and persistence. No Denali Demons allowed, and may you soon reach your goal. Keep up that strong spirit.

GO TYM!  GO TEAM!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 7/2/2019 at 9:59 am

Wayne, Zach and Ian-how are those snacks tasting?  Hope you can summit today. Best wishes to the entire team. The summit awaits you!!!

Posted by: Aunt Kathy on 7/2/2019 at 8:49 am


Mt. Rainier: Van Deventer & Team on Top

Summit! A beautiful day to be on top of Mt. Rainier! The RMI team, led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer, reached the summit just before 7:00 a.m. They are currently enjoying the landmarks of the crater rim and Columbia Crest before they begin their descent.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Cngatulation - Again, Amigo.
Happy Summer…Waltero

Posted by: Waltero Glover on 7/2/2019 at 3:55 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry to 17K Camp

Sunday, June 30, 2019 - 10:26 PM PT Storms were forecasted for today... 90% chance of snow. But when we looked at the world at 4:30 this morning, things were just pretty, clear and calm. So we got up and ate breakfast. After breakfast it was still just fine in our neighborhood, so at 7 AM we set off to do a carry onto the West Buttress. The track was well packed and so we made great progress in the shadows, moving up a series of gradually steepening hills until we were at the "headwall" and the ropes fixed in place up it. The start was a little sporty since there was a small vertical wall to scale in order to get past the bergschrund (a particular kind of crevasse at the top margin of a glacier). But with the aid of the rope and some sharp crampons, we each clawed our way up and over the lip to begin the merely steep and never ending slope above. But it did end as we pulled onto the ridge crest at 16,200 ft which turned out to be the perfect place for a rest break at 10 AM. Then we began climbing the ridge itself with spectacular-and still largely clear- views and the cleanest pink and white granite to clamber around and over. One more short section of fixed line took us up the steep flanks of Washburn’s Thumb at 16,800 ft and then it was relatively easy -but exciting- ridge walking with the Peters Glacier far below on the left and Genet Basin 3000 ft down on the right. By this point there were starting to be a few clouds and some wind gusts, but with the mild temperatures the wind wasn’t much of a concern. We cruised into 17,200 Camp at 12:15 and had a brief reunion with Mike Haugen’s team encamped there and waiting for the weather up top to be workable (it wasn’t today... too windy). With the idea of getting lower down before the storm moved in, we cached our supplies and skedaddled down the ridge. We were almost back in camp at 3PM when the clouds formed fantastic waves and tendrils all around the upper mountain. It began to snow heavily just after our six o’clock dinner of tortellini and soup... fulfilling the 90% prophecy. But we got our carry in. Rest is in order for tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Hanging at High Camp

Sunday, June 30, 2019 - 8:44 PM PT We woke up to a sunny and relatively calm high camp. When we stuck our heads out to see what it looked like above, it was apparent that Denali wasn't a happy mountain. As guides, it is sometimes nice when the mountain makes the decisions for us and doesn't lead us on thinking we might climb. We spent the day eating and resting up for when the mountain decides that it is our time. The forecast is trending for better winds up high, so right now we will do some high altitude camping. We are so glad to have such a strong team of climbers with great attitudes. Let's hope Denali appreciates it as well! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I miss us baby! Please come back in one piece!

Posted by: Mackinzie on 7/2/2019 at 12:45 pm

I’m sending you all wishes for a safe and comfortable ascent ....go team go!!

Ask Meghan if she brought a celebratory bottle of red wine in her camelback!!

xoxo Lisa

Posted by: Lisa Miller on 7/1/2019 at 3:59 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Continue Wait for better Weather

Sunday, June 30, 2019 - 5:16 PM PT We're enjoying the thick air at Camp 4, at 14,200' in Genet Basin. We got a good night's sleep last night, slept in this morning and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and bacon. An ample coffee. Today we are resting and waiting for colder temps by which to travel. There is a weather front affecting Denali right now, bringing winds up high and clouds and precipitation down low. We're sitting in between in the sun and happy at 14k. Our hope is that we can travel through the night down the Kahiltna Glacier to the Basecamp Airstrip and that cloud and precip will dissipate tomorrow so that we can fly back to Talkeetna. We'll let you know how it goes. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Talk about dining with a view!! I always love hearing about the food :-P
Have a safe trip down!
Savannah

Posted by: Savannah on 7/1/2019 at 11:02 am

I’m sure they’d rather celebrate with their new friends at Club 14 than rush home.

Posted by: Keith and Regine on 7/1/2019 at 9:08 am


Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Team Arrive in Moscow

Zdravstvuyte comrades! All is well here in Moscow, although it's been a little rainy and cool for this time of year. Most of the team arrived yesterday evening after some very long flights and most of us are still adjusting to the massive time change, so we keep things simple with a little round of introductions and stepped out for a short walk and a nice dinner not too far from the Hotel. Today we started with a visit to Lenin’s Tomb and then met up with our local tour guide Victoria and had a wonderful tour of the nearby Red Square and Kremlin as well as visiting several churches including the iconic St. Basil's. We also made good use of the beautiful, efficient and busy subway that Moscow is known for, which saved a bit of walking time. After our tour we took a short break and then headed out once again for an amazing dinner and a nice walk. Everyone is doing great and looking forward to heading to the mountains tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs Reach the Summit

RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Chris Ebeling and the Four Day Climbs reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 7:30 AM. The teams climbed through the clouds before the sun broke through shortly before the summit. Walter reported 15 mph winds and cold temps. The teams will spend some time on the summit celebrating before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. We look forward to seeing them back at BaseCamp in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations Climbers!
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Nice job! Can’t wait to hear all about it!

Posted by: Hilary Gehman & Matt Smith on 7/1/2019 at 6:50 pm

Congratulations!  We’re happy you have this experience and we’re looking forward to your stories.

Posted by: Wayne and Louise Gehman on 7/1/2019 at 5:28 am

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