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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mexico’s Volcanoes:  Team Returns to Mexico City

Hi there this is Seth checking in from the Houston airport. The team awoke in Tlachichuca this morning after lots of slumbering last night. Everyone was pretty tired after a whirlwind couple of days. After checking out of the Hotel Colonial in Puebla we drove to Tlachichuca, packed our bags and headed up to high camp. Once there we had time for an afternoon stroll and then it was off to bed. Just a few hours later we made a 1am start for the summit. Although a few of the climbers decided that it was best that they stayed at the hut while the bulk of the group went up. Orizaba is an 'in your face' kind of climb and it's steep right out of the gate. After a couple of hours of trail and scree we reached The Labyrinth. This section can be trickery but for us it was straight forward. Steep ice and snow was the order of the day. Geoff, Alejandro and I anticipated this and had carried extra ropes to 'fix' the steep section. This took a little bit of time and we appreciated everyone's patience as we tried to make the climb as safe as possible. Once we made our way through that section we began the long march up the Jamapa glacier. Everyone was pretty tuckered out when we finally topped out 7 hours and 15 minutes after starting. There wasn't a puff of wind while we were at the summit and the sun was shining. It was the nicest day I've ever had on that mountain. Everyone had climbed strong and doubled down on the descent. We climbed down the glacier and then Geoff and Alejandro guided the climbers down The Labyrinth while I pulled the ropes. We returned to high camp just over 11 hours after starting out. Now we're all disbanded and heading to our respective homes. It was a great experience and quite the uphill adventure! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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Kilimanjaro: Jeff Martin & Team Arrive in Tanzania

Greetings from Arusha, Tanzania, Our Kilimanjaro climb has officially started! After some quick introductions and a champagne toast, it was time to complete the very last leg of our long travels - a short drive to our hotel. We had a nice three-course meal waiting for us when we arrived and we sat out on the patio enjoying the fine dining and the sights and sounds of a new destination. We are waiting for one more climber to join the team later tonight, and then we will start tomorrow with a team meeting after breakfast, discussing all the details of our climb. La la salama (good night), RMI Guide Jeff Martin
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Robert, So excited for you and your team. Missing you and looking forward to more updates!
Love Shelley

Posted by: Shelley on 1/27/2014 at 9:11 am

LOVE seeing this photo of the beloved Dik Dik.  Best wishes to Barrie on this wonderful adventure ahead.  Jeff is the man!  Am so excited to read your blog and think of you all.

Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 1/27/2014 at 5:40 am


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Rest Day at Camp 2

Ah, the acclimatization process. A dismal process of spending the day eating mountain delicacies of dried meat and exotic cheeses, drinking coffee, spending a few hours reading, a midday siesta and strolling around camp soaking in the dramatic topography of the Andes. Yes, the rest day. Not always so accommodating but when the weather Gods give you a day like they gave us, the rest day is just what the doctor ordered. So today we try not to eat all of our remaining food, sleep to our hearts content and day dream of days to come. Oh, how it pays to be patient in the mountains! RMI Guide Steve Gately

On The Map

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Hey dad!  (Lew Smith Best of luck to you and the team this week!  Stephanie and I can’t wait to hear about your climb and the expedition, we are so very excited and proud of you!  Stay strong, climb smart, get adequate rest, eat and drink well, and remember, “an easy pace puts a smile on your face.”  Don’t focus on the summit, rather, focus on putting one foot in front of the other…do that, and you’ll reach the top.  The weather looks good for the next few days, so hopefully, the mountain will allow you and team to summit.  I heard the following Dan Fogelburg song a few days ago and immediately thought of you and the team.  We love you! 

“The higher you climb,
The more that you see.
The more that you see,
The less that you know.
The less that you know,
The more that you yearn.
The more that you yearn,
The higher you climb.

The farther you reach,
The more that you touch.
The more that you touch,
The fuller you feel.
The fuller you feel,
The less that you need.
The less that you need,
The farther you reach.

The higher you climb,
The more that you see.
The more that you see,
The less that you know.
The less that you know,
The more that you yearn.
The more that you yearn,
The higher you climb.

The higher you climb,
The more that you see.
The more that you see,
The less that you know.
The less that you know,
The more that you yearn.
The more that you yearn,
The higher you climb.”

-Dan Fogelburg

Posted by: Kyle A. Smith on 1/27/2014 at 6:17 am

Steve and team,

“On the mountains of truth you can never climb in vain: either you will reach a point higher up today, or you will be training your powers so that you will be able to climb higher tomorrow.” - Friedrich Nietzsche

Hike well and be safe.

Dad

Posted by: Bill Gately on 1/27/2014 at 4:14 am


Mexico: Waterfall & Team Celebrate Their Successful Adventure

Hey this is Seth calling from Tlachichuca. All is well. We've made it down off the mountain and all the way back to town with no big surprises. We had our closing celebration dinner and everybody is just basically crashed out. There is some snoring going on upstairs at the Reyes Compound right now. We are sad that the trip is ending tomorrow, but everybody's excited to be going home to their family and loved ones. It was a great day to finish off an awesome trip here in Mexico. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall


Seth Waterfall calls in from Tlachichuca.

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Carry to Camp 3

Progress on these big expeditions always feels good and after spending much time at Camp 1, being able to link up two days of forward momentum sure has the team excited and feeling good. Today was our "carry" to Camp 3 (19,600ft). The team did excellent managing the new altitude. We made it up in great time dropped off a few items for our summit attempt and made it back down to Camp 2 just as some clouds were rolling in. Tomorrow we rest and prepare for our move to Camp 3! RMI Guide Steve Gately

On The Map

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Way to go team!  Well done, dad (Lew Smith)!  You are doing awesome and we are so proud of you!  Keep climbing smart, acclimated well, and resting when you need to and when it is required.  You guys rock!  Love you so very much!

Kyle and Steph

Posted by: Kyle A. Smith on 1/27/2014 at 6:06 am

Steve and team,

Great job managing this climb. Sounds like if the weather holds your group should summit. However, if not, they will have learned many valuable lessons about the mountains and themselves, which is really what climbing is all about.

Hike well and be safe.

Dad

Posted by: Bill Gately on 1/26/2014 at 6:31 am


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team Reach Summit of Orizaba

Hey this is Seth standing on top of El Pico de Orizaba also known as Citlaltépetl , the tallest point in Mexico, the third highest in North America. It took us about 7 ½ hours from high camp to reach the summit. Everybody did great, it’s a beautiful day and the boys are psyched let’s here them (yells in background). We will check in again when we are back down in Tlachichucha this evening. And tomorrow we are going home. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall


RMI Guide Seth Waterfall calls from the summit of Pico de Orizaba.

On The Map

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Taylor…..YOU DID IT…How was the weather??? Lots of snow?
How was it different from Oct?  Deb

Posted by: Debbi on 1/25/2014 at 2:19 pm


Mexico: Waterfall & Team Ready for Orizaba Summit Bid

Hey there. This is Seth checking in from Piedra Grande, our high camp on el Pico de Orizaba. We had a good day coming over from Pueblo. We checked out of the hotel nice and early and drove over to Tlachichuca at the base of Orizaba. Packed our stuff, had lunch at the Reyes Compound, and then proceeded to drive up to the hut here at high camp. Once we got up here, we took a little hike. It was cloudy and right before the sun went down, the mountain finally showed itself. It was rearing up nice and high. We just finished with dinner and sorting a little gear and packing for the climb tonight. We'll be taking off right as it turns tomorrow, a little after midnight, maybe 1:00. We'll be going for the summit. Crystal clear skies right now and just a beautiful night, and everybody is tucked in and getting ready to climb. We'll check in, hopefully from the summit in the morning. Hope all's well back in the U.S.A. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall


RMI Guide Seth Waterfall calls in from Piedra Grande.

On The Map

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Aconcagua: Justman and Team Arrive at Camp 2

After two days of rest at 16,400 feet we woke up this morning to strong winds. So strong in fact we had to do some midnight tent repairs. We saddled up our packs and leaned into the wind. The team is now at Camp 2 settled in their tents at 18000 feet. Everyone is great and we are happy for a new view overlooking the Andes. Unfortunately, one of our climbers wasn't feeling well at Camp 1 and had to descend. He returned to Mendoza and has been checked out by local doctors. We are glad to hear from him this morning that he has been released to fly home. We hope to see him in the mountains again soon. RMI Guide JJ Justman and Team

On The Map

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Hey dad!  (Lew Smith)  Kim has been keeping everyone well abreast of the situation with the climber that had to descend and we wish him the best.  We hope you are doing well and that you will be able to go for the summit today, weather permitting, of course!  Love you and we are so proud of you!

Kyle and Steph

Posted by: Kyle A. Smith on 1/27/2014 at 6:09 am

Lew,  I hope today is the day for ascent!  Good Luck and God is with you.
Mike

Posted by: Mike Harvey on 1/27/2014 at 6:04 am


Mexico: Waterfall & Team Rest Day in Puebla

We have had a nice relaxing recovery day here in the beautiful city of Puebla. Geoff and I met up with a few of the team members for coffee in the morning while the rest of the team slept in. The city has an almost European feel with lots of sidewalk cafés near our hotel. Later in the day some of the guys explored the cathedrals while others visited a local climbing shop. We all met back up for dinner and now we're back at the hotel getting ready for the Big day tomorrow. Here's a pick from our approach to Ixta a few days ago. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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Hope everything went smoothly today.  Waiting to hear about the climb…

Posted by: Brad and Lori Briggs on 1/24/2014 at 3:51 pm

That’s my hubby!!! So proud!!! Good luck everyone with your last summitt!! Fingers crossed the weather is awesome!

Posted by: Jen Jezak on 1/24/2014 at 5:44 am


Aconcagua: Justman & Team - Weather Wins, At Least For Today…

Weather ultimately dictates everything on these long expeditions and there's certainly no exception for our Team. Our agenda had us moving to Camp 2 this morning but we awoke to 40 mph winds and gusts of up to 60 mph here at Camp 1! Alas! You win again Aconcagua! Spirits remain high though as our forecasts call for more cooperating winds starting tomorrow and extending into early next week. So today we rest and prepare ourselves for the move to Camp 2 tomorrow. Best regards from all of us at Aconcagua's Camp 1. RMI Guide Steve Gately
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Nice job guys ! Congratulations !

Posted by: Bissell on 1/28/2014 at 1:03 pm

Nice job guys !

Posted by: Bissell on 1/28/2014 at 1:01 pm

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