Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Team Returns from Cayambe Climb

June 25, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Hey, this is Mike Walter calling on Tuesday the 25th of June. We are all at Chilcabamba Hacienda outside of Cotopaxi National Park. We spent two days at Cayambe, sleeping up above 15,000'. Yesterday we went out for our summit bid on Cayambe, we had a great day of climbing. The winds turned us around above 18,000'. We were within about 1,000' of the summit maybe 700' of the summit. But the winds, a cloud cap and some riming ice on our clothing turned us around. We are back at Chilcabamba resting and we'll head to Cotopaxi tomorrow to attempt that one. We are all doing well and enjoying our climbing here in Ecuador.

RMI Guide Mike Walter checks in from Ecuador after Cayambe climb.

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Mt. Rainier: June 25th Update

June 25, 2013

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Win Whittaker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,500'

The Five Day Summit Climbs June 21 - 25 led by Seth Waterfall and Win Whittaker were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams climbed to 10,500’ before deciding to turn around due to snow conditions and high winds. The Five Day Kautz Climb led by Adam Knoff moved up to their High Camp at the western edge of the Turtle snowfield between 9,400' - 10,500' yesterday. They will spend today training at the Castle. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by Billy Nugent arrived at Inter Glacier yesterday afternoon. They will be moving to Camp Schurman today.

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to 17K Camp

June 24, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Monday, June 24th, 2013 Only 3000 feet to go! We woke up around 4:30 this morning and packed up our 14k camp. We headed uphill towards the fixed lines and hit them as the sun began to beat down on us. It was a stark difference from the other day when it was ridiculously cold from the wind. We worked our way up the fixed lines and gained the ridge on top of the West Buttress. We picked up our cache as we followed the ridge towards 17k camp. By the time we got to camp we were plenty tired. We dug in deep to protect us from the big winds that can happen at 17,000 feet on De-gnarly. Dehydrated meals and hot chocolate in the tent... bed time! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Summit Team 6

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I meant picture on the Rim…

Posted by: Stacy Turner on 6/26/2013 at 6:33 am

Awesome picture of you all on the summit! A much better view than the one I have in Falls Creek, PA. :-P
Can’t wait to see you on the summit Cindee.

Posted by: Stacy Turner on 6/26/2013 at 6:31 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day

June 24, 2013

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, June 24th, 2013 Today the team enjoyed a well deserved day of relaxation and gluttony. After three days of early starts we had a leisurely morning of coffee and breakfast burritos followed by some high intensity competitive napping. Unfortunately it was too close a match to declare a winner at this point, stay tuned for the sudden death nap-off during our next rest day. Before dinner we reviewed crampon techniques and discussed our carry to 13,200' tomorrow. Mac and Cheese with bacon for dinner should provide sufficient calories to fuel us for mañana. We have been lucky thus far with excellent weather and the forecast is looking just as good. Knock on wood, I sure hope that didn't jinx us. Thanks to friends and family for tuning in. RMI Guides Geoff, Robby, Pete, and our stellar team

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Mac and cheese with bacon?? Set another place, I’ll stop by.

I hope the good weather holds up for you guys.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/25/2013 at 8:45 am

Tommy, it’s awesome to hear you had a great day of rest! I hope you were able to find some special quiet time to journal and reflect in the amazing beauty that surrounds you. I was so happy to be able to see Brandon last night for prom. He was so handsome, just like his dad. It brought back special memories! I will be praying for the tough day ahead. I know how strong you are, though, and that gives me strength. I love you!
Rhonda

Posted by: Rhonda Kitchen on 6/25/2013 at 7:21 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Settle into 11K Camp

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday, June 23rd, 2013 Hello all, We're checking in from 11k! We woke at a more reasonable hour this morning to a centimeter or so of new snow, and crystal blue skies. There was nothing to do but eat a big breakfast, crash our camp, and bounce to 11,000 feet. Just over two hours later we rolled into camp, psyched to finally be setting up shop for a few days. We dug a big kitchen, got the tents all bomb proof, and enjoyed an afternoon lounging in (or hiding from) the sun. With a full rest day tomorrow, it was a relaxed evening, and we spectated as the rangers skied a few laps above camp. The group's competitive personalities are coming out, and tomorrow we have scheduled a competitive napping event. We'll let you know who the winners are! Until then, Happily resting at 11k. RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, et al.

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Hi Wyatt! It’s been raining since you left! The pictures of the mountain look beautiful. We really enjoy reading what your group is doing from this blog. Take Care and stay safe and strong. Love ya, Mom and Dad

Posted by: Marian Evenson on 6/24/2013 at 5:10 pm

Hugo ,we wish you a nice and safe journey! Enjoy your ride !
From your brother , Luis Heitor .

Posted by: Luis Heitor Picchioni on 6/24/2013 at 10:26 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday, June 23rd, 2013 We woke up with a couple of inches of snow on the tents this morning. No storms or winds, just the friendly June kind of Denali snow. We had a very pleasant rest day. We checked in with the camp gossip and watched a few teams head up the fixed line towards 17k. Our plan is to head up to 17,000 ft and make a camp. We have really been doing a great job of sport eating and no one has had any problems with this altitude. We are all very excited because we do not drag any sleds up past this camp. RMI Summit Team 6 P.S. Lance wants Penny to know that he is keeping up with his dental hygiene. (But the rest of him has not washed in ten days! Also, Uchal says Happy 2nd Birthday Lulu!

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Hello Gregory Grasshopper! We all had a fun time in Austin, swimming in the Pedernales, eating, and catching up. We are thinking of you and hope all continues to go well. Midge and Pete say hi.

Love you,
Mum and Bubs

Posted by: Anne Sullivan on 6/24/2013 at 8:05 pm

Great photos and updates! Thank you, it really helps us at home feel more involved, and informed. Great progress and no more sleds. Yea! Glad to hear all are doing well and managing to have a bit of fun too. Message to Steve, love you and missing you, hope you are having a wonderful time.remember, take lots of pictures!

Posted by: Tania K on 6/24/2013 at 1:33 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Update

June 23, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Summit! The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by JJ Justman and Kel Rossiter stood on top just after 7:15 a.m. Snow and sometimes rain was falling on the summit and the teams are currently in a mountain cloud cap. Both teams recharged and refueled in the summit crater before starting their descent at 8:25. Although precipitation was falling, the guides reported pleasant climbing conditions and an excellent route. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

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A big congrats Gautam!Gritty G! Proud of you.

Posted by: Bhaktha on 6/29/2013 at 9:16 am

Congratulations Gautam!!

Posted by: Mahadev on 6/26/2013 at 9:40 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Carry Heavy Loads to 9,600’ Camp

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

Saturday, June 22nd, 2013 Greetings from Pete, Geoff, Robby and Team, Under cool temperatures and partly sunny skies, we moved uphill again this morning from our camp at 7,600' to 9,600'. The slopes of Ski Hill offered up our first significant climb of the expedition given our full loads weighing down our packs and our sleds. After building camp at 9,600', we continued to lighten our loads and fill our bellies by feasting on soups and Tasty Bite delicacies, followed by some hot beverages and storytelling. Our team is feeling strong and weather looks accommodating for a move to 11,000' camp tomorrow morning, where we'll finally post up for some rest and acclimatization. RMI Guides Robby, Pete, and Geoff

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Aloha Gail,
IMUA, from Kihei Charter.
We are thinking of you and the entire team.
Safe climbing.
Aloha
Gene

Posted by: Gene on 6/26/2013 at 3:35 am

Guapo,
met someone this morning who has also climbed Rainer, and a few others;is climbing Denali in 2015 with his dad and brother. I got his name for you, he’d like to meet you!
I see you have a team member from Kihei!....I bet you wish you were feeling those temps instead, but the views where you are now? They really outshine Kihei!
We miss you and are following your progress. Lots of cheering coming from Facebook
Have a great climb tomorrow
Guapa

Posted by: marion on 6/23/2013 at 8:10 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Gear at 16,600’

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 22nd, 2013 Movin' on up! We woke up early and set out to cache some gear up high. Even though the sun was not on us, we thought it was warm for 14k camp. We were wrong. As we set out towards the fixed ropes that allow us to climb the steep face up to 16,000 ft safely, a cold wind picked up and made us cold...like Denali cold! I think we needed it because we were getting a bit spoiled. Once we gained the ridge, we were out of the wind and in the sun and immediately life was better. We decided to make a cache a around 16,600' under a prominent rock feature called Washburn's Thumb. We cached some food and fuel for when we head up to our last camp at 17,000' in a couple of days. I was really impressed at how everyone did at the altitude and on the fixed lines. Go team! Rest day tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6

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Lance’s little ones are off camping with the dinosaurs the next 3 days . BUt we will be thinking about you all and wish you warmer wind and fantastic next few days

Posted by: elisabeth on 6/24/2013 at 6:30 pm

Enjoy your day off, but I am sure you will find something to pass the time. This team likes to stay busy it seems. Tell Q the Bruins are at home tonight for game 6. They trail 3 to 2. Should be a great game 7 this week. Go Bruins!!

Posted by: George on 6/24/2013 at 5:05 am

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Mike Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

June 22, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

After a relaxing night at the hotel Casa Sol, we headed to the world famous market in downtown Otavalo this morning. Here the indigenous Otavaleños display their artisan craft goods, including ponchos, blankets, and sweaters woven from the wool of sheep and alpaca, jewelry, paintings, wood carvings, and the like. We spent the morning exploring the market, and now we're about to head out to the climbers' hut on Cayambe, where we'll spend two nights and hopefully get good weather for a shot at the summit. Cayambe sits at an elevation of 5,790 meters, with massive glaciers flowing from the summit. It is the 3rd highest peak in Ecuador, and also holds the distinction of the highest altitude on earth over which the equator passes. The weather today is beautifully warm and sunny, and we are optimistic that the good weather will continue while we are up on our climb. Hasta luego... RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Exciting to watch and hear your progress!! Glad to hear everyone is moving strong and feeling good. Looking forward to seeing you at the top and celebrating your summit!! go, Go, GO!!! Lumley

Posted by: Jennifer Lumley on 6/25/2013 at 5:12 am

Been following and envious! Sorry to hear just 300ft short of Summit - better safe. We will hope for the best on the next climb. Be safe & enjoy!

Posted by: Dan C on 6/24/2013 at 10:17 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Team Returns from Cayambe Climb

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 25th Update

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to 17K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Settle into 11K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Update

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Carry Heavy Loads to 9,600’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Gear at 16,600’

On The Map

Ecuador Volcanoes: Mike Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

On The Map

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