May 22:
Resting here at 11,300' on Mt. McKinley... Not much to report other than worsening weather through the day today and that while hanging in the posh (cook tent) the team was able to solve most of the world's problems. We broached the taboo subjects of politics, religion, economics, ancient societies/civilizations, space exploration, extraterrestrial copulation, ancient ruins, plate tectonics, coral atoll nations and the rising sea level, doomsday cults, classic car restoration, moral bankruptcy, and escalating health care costs just to name a few. Currently it's snowing moderately but fortunately without wind. A good day to rest after all. Hopefully we get a small break in the weather tomorrow so we can push a load of food and fuel up around Windy Corner which will put us in position to move up to 14k camp.
Ciao,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Geoff Schellens and Gilbert ChaseMay 21:
After an uneventful night we awoke to more mostly sunny weather with some high cirrus clouds. The plan was to sleep in a little and enjoy the first morning of the expedition where we didn't have the chore of breaking camp. We enjoyed a delicious breakfast of smoked salmon on toasted bagels with cream cheese and then geared up for our walk down to the cache at 9,600'. After less than four hours we had retrieved all of our groceries and returned to camp at 11k. After eating dinner and hanging out, the glacier in camp suddenly settled sending a large shock-wave through the ground, needless to say scaring the crap out of everyone. I've never really felt a glacier do that before, pretty wild. Tomorrow calls for a rest day which might be good timing with the weather as things seem to be slightly deteriorating. There are some lenticular clouds forming on the peaks across the Kahiltna which may be indicative of some moisture on he way.
Will check in tomorrow from our rest day...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and the gang.
May 20:
Hi everyone.
Today was another great day of unbelievable weather for our push up to the 11,000' camp. We left behind a cache at our previous camp at 9,600' of mostly food and fuel (alongside some miscellaneous personal items) and thus enjoyed a significantly lighter move than the loads from the previous two days. After a little bit of digging and improving of an abandoned camp we moved in and enjoyed a great tortellini dinner.
Hoping for a smooth first night at a new elevation,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Paul, missing my mountain man!! I’m very Proud of you baby.
The temperature at the happiest place on earth will hit 100 degrees for the holiday weekend.
143
Sherri
Posted by: Sherri on 5/24/2012 at 6:58 am
Hi John C and gang ,everything seems to be going to plan for you.Mart and gang arrived ok.Be good and be safe,talk soon.
Our team enjoyed a rest day at Camp 2 (ABC) today. Their plan is to head for Camp 3 tomorrow.
This really is the start of the Mt. Everest summit push in my eyes. How the next two days go, can have real impact on the summit day.
It is so hard to try and maintain strength at these higher camps that you better hope the internal battery is charged, you will be drawing off of your reserves for sure. The team is focusing on eating and hydrating, keeping their bodies strong and ready. Four of our climbing Sherpa left Base Camp today and joined the climbers at ABC. Everyone is doing well and looking forward to the next few days.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn is one of the best mountain guides in the business. With many expeditions under his belt, he knows how to climb this mountain. The weather forecast still looks promising. Good luck to the team!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from ABC on a rest day.
Today was a crucial day for us to get in position for a summit bid. We carried a couple of days of food plus some personal gear to the bottom of Washburn's Thumb at 16,800'. This cache is an integral part of the strategy of climbing this mountain. Once in place, we can wait for a weather window to move up to camp at 17,000' and then summit. It now becomes a waiting game for us as we need a good forecast for a string of a few days.
It was also a great day for us to practice our climbing skills because the real climbing on Denali starts above 14,000'. We got to practice using the fixed lines up to 16,200' to attain the West Buttress. From there, we were greeted with beautiful views and climbing on a thin, rocky ridge. The buttress is the namesake of the route, the reason people come up this way. It requires great attention, but affords amazing climbing and vistas. Everyone did a great job with these 2 new challenges. We even had some members of the group attain new personal high marks!
Now, we're back at camp ready for some rest. We are playing the waiting game now, holding out and hoping the mountain will give us the weather window we need. But the forecast looks pretty good, and we're patient, stubborn, and well prepared. 14K Camp is a great place to get strong, and with a rest day tomorrow we definitely won't be getting out of sleeping bags until the sun hits us.
Bringing back an old feature to the blog: the stoke meter is all the way up at a 9.5 right now!
RMI Guide Maile Wade and the southside dwellers of 14K!
You are in good hands. Keep listening to Mike, make good choices and be safe.
Posted by: Diana on 5/23/2012 at 5:50 pm
Kyle, you are an amazing and wonderful boyfriend. Thank you so very much for the beautiful flowers and the sweet note. It definitely made me cry! We are all rooting for you and are so proud of you. Juliana asks me everyday where you are. Even my friend Dan says how inspired he is. On to the top! Hurry home! Love you! Stephenie
The weather is forecasted to change around here in the following days but today was one of the hottest days we've had. Lenticular clouds continue to be impressive. We spent today playing inside crevasses and went ice climbing. Everyone had a blast.
The glaciers are an enormous amount of ice up here in Alaska. Researchers currently on the glacier conducting some studies have found the depth of the Kahiltna Glacier to be about 500 meters deep. As we climbed on the walls of the crevasses peering down into the dark black hole beneath us, we felt small.
So long from the Kahiltna.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
This is Dave Hahn calling down from Camp 2 on Mt. Everest. Finally! We are out of Basecamp and on our summit bid. We had a great morning coming up. The climbing route is actually in pretty good condition. The ice fall is scary as ever but the Ice Fall Doctors have been doing a good job and we got through in pretty quick time. It was a beautiful morning nice and clear and calm.
The mountain is quieting down a little bit. There were a lot of Sherpas carrying loads down today for expeditions that were finished. So the mountain is quieting down and we think that is a hopeful sign for us. The forecast is coming together and there are still a few teams still around that are on the same time frame as us. We have been comparing notes.
Things are going pretty well. Our Sherpa team is going to come up tomorrow to ABC. We are going to rest tomorrow and get ready for the Lhotse Face and moving to Camp 3 the following day. We are pretty optimistic. We are all feeling really good right now and we are going to keep you informed.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Just heard the news of crowding in the death zone and subsequent loss of life this past weekend. So glad to read the blog and to be assured all is well with you both. Have fun and be safe. Can’t wait to read about your successful return.
Cheers,
Jo
Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 5/22/2012 at 8:06 am
Hello everyone from the 14,000' camp on Denali. We're taking a rest day today, in order to acclimate and get strong for our forays up higher on the mountain.
After a breakfast involving lots of coffee and the universal favorite--bacon, we spent some time finishing off our snow walls at camp. The rest of the day was spent preparing gear for caching up high on the mountain tomorrow, as well as lounging around, reading, and eating.
We're planning to carry supplies up high on the West Buttress tomorrow, in preparation for our move to high camp and subsequent summit bid. We'll be in touch again soon.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Rich, thinking of you every moment. Go get ‘em. XO
Posted by: Christina Doren on 5/21/2012 at 4:30 pm
Hi Mike M!! Still rooting for you….and all your team!! Following your trek on the blog! Kick butt and take names!! Can’t wait to see the view from the top!
The objective for the day was Kahiltna Dome. We woke up early and quickly prepared. An hour's walk took us across the glacier to the first hill, and warm morning sun. Unfortunately several stretches into the climb we encountered challenging conditions and decided to head back to our camp at 9,500 ft. The team broke camp in an impressive hour and a half and then made the 9-mile trip back to basecamp. Throughout the walk back, we saw lenticular clouds forming hanging over peaks in the area. Despite the sunny weather, they let us know that keeping our Gore-tex in the top of our packs was a good idea.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Despite stormy conditions, a small summit climb team reached the summit today led by Brent Okita. The team did not linger on the summit before beginning their descent at 8:00 a.m. The climbs are back to Paradise and are currently on their way to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford.
Congratulations!
Things are looking good for the team. The wait should prove itself worth it, the weather window and the overall health of the team is like having the pole position at the Indy 500. An early breakfast, and six plus hours of climbing should put the team at Camp 2 tomorrow.
We enjoyed a great pizza dinner send off tonight. Some last minute packing, and early to bed.
Go team go!
RMI Guide & Everest Basecamp ManagerMark Tucker
Happy Bithday Mark.
Be safe, but hurry up and summit. Surf is up and the Black Ball is coming. Are you in for Father’s Day Golf?
Posted by: Kent Tucker on 5/21/2012 at 9:08 am
HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARK!
Dalton, Nicole, and Hailey all went through cllege graduation ceramonies this weekend.
Boy, you are getting old!
Have a snow cone on me.
Today's walk was pleasantly uneventful and brought us from Camp 1 at 7,800' up to Camp 2 on top of Ski Hill at 9,600'. Clouds came in and out along with some intermittent flurries which broke up the heat from the direct sun. Walking temperatures were actually much more comfortable than yesterday's constant, direct sun. The team dined on some delicious cheese quesadillas with grilled onions, peppers, and chicken before retiring to our tents. It pays to be in the sack before the shadow and chilly temperatures descended upon camp. High pressure is supposed to build again for tomorrow and we aim to take advantage by pushing our camp up to 11,000' before crummy weather sets in half way through next week.
All for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Elizabeth and team, so happy to hear all is well and you are getting higher and higher.. Stay focused, eat lots, rest and enjoy the beauty and each other.
Miss you and our emails. Emily’s concert was fantastic. Love you tons. Mom
Posted by: Maureen Bartron on 5/23/2012 at 8:22 am
Hi dad, it’s the last day of school. We bought an iPad and downloaded lots of games. We are having an end of the year party on Thursday, right after the last day of school. I love you and miss you. Stay safe.
-Laura
Now, we're back at camp ready for some rest. We are playing the waiting game now, holding out and hoping the mountain will give us the weather window we need. But the forecast looks pretty good, and we're patient, stubborn, and well prepared. 14K Camp is a great place to get strong, and with a rest day tomorrow we definitely won't be getting out of sleeping bags until the sun hits us.
Bringing back an old feature to the blog: the stoke meter is all the way up at a 9.5 right now!
RMI Guide Maile Wade and the southside dwellers of 14K!
Paul, missing my mountain man!! I’m very Proud of you baby.
The temperature at the happiest place on earth will hit 100 degrees for the holiday weekend.
143
Sherri
Posted by: Sherri on 5/24/2012 at 6:58 am
Hi John C and gang ,everything seems to be going to plan for you.Mart and gang arrived ok.Be good and be safe,talk soon.
Posted by: Gene Costello on 5/24/2012 at 3:57 am
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