Entries from Expedition Dispatches
June 11, 2017
Today has been a good one. We have been treated to some sun here at
14,000' Camp. This has allowed us to prep and dry all our gear. There are sunny days on the horizon, we are just waiting to see how strong the winds will be. We are drinking and eating well in hopes of moving up tomorrow or on Tuesday. Fingers crossed! That's all for now!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
June 11, 2017
Today was another rest day here at 14,000' Camp. After a long brunch and some wall renovations, our team settled in for a little rest. By the afternoon, some visibility presented itself and our team geared up for a stroll to the "Edge of the World," a vantage point where you can peer nearly 7,000 feet down to the
lower Kahiltna Glacier. It is a truly stunning view and a treat to see a little bit of this amazing Range after living in a snow globe for a few days. With any luck this week will offer us a few days of decent weather to venture higher. The team is ready and when it is safe to climb, we will be happy to do so.
R
MI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
June 10, 2017
Good evening from Alaska. It shouldn't be raining on the glaciers of this Range. But it is. We've been confined today to our tents and kitchen tarp to stay dry, as a wet cloud and on and off rain took over most of the day. No climbing or outside training we could do, but for the hour or so that we got a break, we moved camp, as our tent platforms became 1 foot tall pedestals due to the high temps. We're all looking forward to an improvement on the forecast, and continue to climb on this sanctuary of alpine dreams that
Little Swiss is!
Elias, Chase and team.
June 10, 2017
The sleep of the dead finally hit me this morning just after my last post. An hour later JT asks, "Should we get up? It's 1:04 am and the alarm on my phone hasn't gone off!"
The night hadn't brought the hoped for cooling, but it was time to leave and make that trip to Base Camp. Breakfast and hots were served in the remains of our old Posh site, sans the actual Posh, then we were off. As we turned the corner at 10,000' heading down the Kahiltna we were treated to the amazing view down glacier of the jewels ad the Alaska Range. Hunter, Foraker, Crosson and other peaks were starkly defined in shades of black and white, along with some other hue that seemed hard to place. Unusually dark clouds prevented the pinks and reds we often see at 3:30-4:00 am, but this view I've never seen before, and may have been even more spectacular. 6+ hours of hard walking finally brought us back to Base Camp. Reflective of the poor snow year in the Alaskan mountains this year, there were a number of sketchy crevasse crossing to be negotiated. Then white out conditions kept us from seeing the landmarks that would otherwise tell us exactly where we were, but the track in the snow of others gave us something to follow. Then, low and behold, the tents of Base Camp popped into view and we knew we were done. Unfortunately, these same clouds have prevented planes from flying and landing here, so we are again captive of the weather gods and just waiting to be released from
Denali to return to civilization where we might wash the twenty one days of toil off us and sit in chairs at a table and eat food that requires more than just a spoon.
I just hope that, when we do get to that restaurant, some social graces return to folks and we don't see them licking their bowls clean in anticipation of the next course.
I'll of course advise everyone to bring a pee bottle to their hotel room, and perhaps even a CMC (clean mountain can), because some habits might just be too difficult to break after these twenty one days.
Goodnight from 7200' camp, where I hear the snow hitting the tent walls in increasing intensity. Oh well, at least we need walk no more, for now.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina, JT & Team
June 10, 2017
Hello from 14 Camp. We had a mix of bagels, cheese and Cheerios with a side of bacon for breakfast. Then we suited up for a walk in calmer and warmer weather than what we have be experiencing lately. Our team climbed to the base of the
fixed ropes to clear our minds from tent time. We also were glad to stretch the legs and lungs! Our vibe is lifted for the future. The forecast for tomorrow is looking like new strong wind with snow. The weather could turn the corner early next week. The team is doing every well and poised to go higher soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by Dave Hahn reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Dave reported clear sunny skies above 7000' with winds of about 15 mph from the North. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
June 10, 2017 7:46 pm PST
Today we may very well have nailed it. Waking early for an extended weather viewing to establish any discernible trend, we left camp with reasonable visibility. The team did great as we broke trail up to the base of the fixed lines. We rested at the base of the lines as the weather slowly deteriorated and our friends from
RMI 4 joined us in solidarity on a fitness walk. Once we were a big party and the cache was established, we descended back to
14 Camp for some rest before dinner. The winds and snow picked up nearly as soon as we got home and we are now poised to go to 17K once the weather allows. It has been pretty squirrelly in the weather department lately, but the team is hanging tough, waiting for our time to shine.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
The
Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Eric Frank and Ty Reid, reached the summit at 8:00 this morning. It is a beautiful but chilly morning. After spending some time on top, the teams began their descent at 9:00 a.m.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
June 10, 2017 12:07 am PST
It was a day of decisions. The team sadly broke apart today, with the main group heading down, and two strong and driven individuals opting to stay on the mountain to give 'er another try. Caught in the middle I was torn between sticking with the two and going for the summit, or sticking with the main part of the team. After anguishing over the decision, I chose to finish off the expedition with the team, rather than lead our two erstwhile members to the top.
A sketchy forecast helped me in my decision, and I think my two climbers will have a better chance of summiting with the groups I left them with. They'll be joining Tyler and Jake's teams, who have a bit more time than I to wait for good weather.
So here we are, in our tents at
11,200' camp waiting for the night to referee the glacier so we can travel over its frozen surface to minimize the risk of crevasse falls that have been occurring much more than normal lately.
It's sad separating from our two teammates, and leaving the mountain without a summit under our belts. For me it's been twenty five trips since I've not summited. But folks are in good spirits.
I think we all really appreciate the time we've spent here, the friendships developed, the hard times as well as the fun times.
In two hours we awaken for one last day on the glacier. That is, as long as the air service can pick us up in the morning.
With any luck, next time I chat with you I'll have had a shower, eaten a big ol' steak and perhaps consumed an adult beverage or two.
Good night from 11,200'.
RMI Guides
Brent Okita,
Christina Dale and
JT Schmitt
On The Map
June 10, 2017 12:02 am PST
Good eve from camp! We just got back from a stellar day on
The Throne, one of the dominant peaks around Little Swiss. We ventured up the "Lost Marsupial" Route, and these folks climbed it (up and down) in a record time for this guide's third year coming here! A bit of rain threatened us and we considered bailing, but soon it ceased and we finished our objective. The cloudy skies provided an incredible light tone that made our pictures sure look surreal. Upon arrival to camp, steak dinner was prepared, and a good night's sleep awaits.
Stay tuned for more,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
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Tym, Tyler, and Team,
Looks like some well-deserved sun will end your wait and hopefully allow you to safely reach your goal. Best wishes as you move ahead for this highly anticipated day. I think I am as excited as you are! Anxious for your success and for your return to sea level. Thanks for the great pictures and daily updates.
Warriors took the championship tonight with a win over the Cavs. And Satoshi says, $2664.00.
Love Mom and Zeppelin
Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/12/2017 at 9:03 pm
Babe,
Great news that the sun is out! Hope that means you will be able to move forward. Keeping my fingers and my toes crossed for you and the team!!! Miss you and love you so much!!!
xoxo
Mo
Posted by: Amanda Gunn on 6/12/2017 at 9:41 am
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