June 18, 2017
It was overcast and gray in Talkeetna this morning when the team got in for a 7AM breakfast, but we were optimistic in any case. Things had brightened just a bit by the time we assembled in the K2 hangar, but the word was passed that fog on the glacier surface would keep planes out of Basecamp initially. We drank coffee and fidgeted with our gear for a bit. Then we loaded the planes. Then we fidgeted a bit more. Then it was time to fly and we got our boots on. We hastily texted friends and loved ones as our two big beautiful De Havilland Otters taxied out to the runway. We were off! But then the fog came back over Basecamp and we did a u turn and landed in Talkeetna. We texted, we drank more coffee and then we loaded up for real. The flight in got markedly more dramatic and spectacular as we entered the Alaska Range. Before we knew it, we were setting down perfectly on skis on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. There were about a hundred climbers assembled, ready to fly home and so it was a busy scene. We were very pleased to shake hands and give hugs to the two RMI teams finishing their adventures with Jake Beren and Tyler Jones. Then we set to building camp and reviewing safety procedures for travel on the lower glaciers. We'd stop every now and then to stare in wide eyed wonder at massive Mt Foraker and vertical Mt Hunter, towering over us. Dinner, some story telling and some packing completed our big day. We turned in at 8 PM with the sun nowhere remotely even close to the horizon. We'll get up early -weather permitting- and make our move in the cool of morning when the glacier surface is firmer and safer.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
June 18, 2017
Well folks, I'm happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I'd be lying if I said it didn't make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000' and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We're now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600' to retrieve the rest of our belongings.
Good night from Camp 3!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Awesome reading about your daily travels. Stay safe (and thinking about Lance and Caleb on this journey) :)
Posted by: Tina Kyllonen on 6/20/2017 at 9:31 am
Glo, what a wonderful father day present to hear your voice from Denali, the great one! Our thoughts and prayers are with you as your journey continues, be safe, love u, pa
The Four Day Summit Climb team for June 15 - 18, 2017 was unable to make a summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning due to inclement weather. The team will descend to Paradise this afternoon and return to Rainier BaseCamp.
June 18, 2017
Thick air and mild temps surround the team at this moment. A different story just a few hours ago when we were standing on the summit of Kilimanjaro. We are all settled in here at the 10,000' Mweka camp the last stop before we leave Kilimanjaro National Park tomorrow. We started the climb around midnight under clear skies and a mild breeze . It was pretty cold the last couple of stretches and a few of the team climbed with their down parkas on which we usually put on at our breaks and take off when climbing. Seven hours later we were on the summit of Kilimanjaro, the Roof of Africa, with beautiful weather and a very elated team. It's a big climb and a long descend. We didn't arrive to this camp till after 3 pm with a tired team. Everyone did great and the stories are already starting to fly. I am going to roust the napping guys soon so we can all enjoy another great meal which is currently getting set up in the dining tent. All is well on the hill.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Please listen to the audio link below from the team calling from the summit of Kilimanjaro.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker and team call from the summit of Kilimanjaro with Father's day greetings.
Yesterday we converged at baggage carousel #1 in the Anchorage airport... having come from far and wide to form our Denali climbing team. A commute with Denali Overland and our driver Bill brought us into Talkeetna, Alaska by 9 PM. Today we got down to brass tacks and started preparing seriously to go on the mountain. It wasn't all drudgery as our first official team meeting was conducted over a fine Roadhouse breakfast with plenty of good hot coffee. Introductions were completed in time for our mandatory National Park Service Orientation Slideshow at the Talkeetna Ranger Station. We were reminded that it had been a tough season for weather on Denali, with only 30% of climbers making the summit so far. Indeed, we'd begun the day walking the streets in steady rain. By midday when we headed for the K2 Aviation hangar, things were beginning to look up. We conducted a thorough check of each climbers gear and clothing as big stretches of blue sky too over. We kept looking toward the Range as we went through sorting tents and ropes and food for the group, but the big peaks stayed well-disguised in the murk and cloud. By early evening the loads were in order and weighed for hefting into airplanes. The work done, we headed back into downtown Talkeetna for dinner at the bustling Twister Creek. It is high season for tourism in Alaska. We all relaxed a little and made final preparations for "getting on" in the morning. Getting on a plane, getting on a glacier, and getting on a climb.
With a little more improvement in the weather, we'll be on our way.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
June 17, 2017
We've made it! To Camp 2! It was early, it was snowy, and it was sloggy but we made it! We left camp at 3:45 this morning to stick with our nocturnal schedule and to avoid the post holey conditions. Lucky for us the snow had firmed up and the walking was primo. The visibility on the other hand was little to none, and our only views were those of the rope teams in front of us. We made a few discoveries along the way, for instance uphill travel is much easier without your sled break on! After a few more hours, the occasional bump in the road, and a fair amount of pressure breathing, we pulled into the white expanse of Camp 2. I wish I could tell you views were beautiful but I'll have to wait until the sun comes out! We're now all cozied up in our tents, enjoying some R&R, before a tasty meal of Horiskey Mac and Cheese!
The memories of the slow ascent of Ski Hill are already fading and we are setting our sights on moving to 11,000' tomorrow. Spirits are high and backs are strong!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guide MIke Haugen and crew
June 17, 2017 1:43 pm PST
Hello from the upper airstrip of Denali Basecamp. We made the arduous descent from high camp in snowy and windy conditions down to 11,000ft last evening. We unfortunately did not get a break from the weather... WINDS.
Today we had a very alpine start to climb down to base camp in the cold of early morning in order to reduce our chances of breaking through snow bridges on the lower glacier. We were able to do just that! After arriving we were told the normal runway was to bumpy and crevassed. The whole team finished strong up the bonus hill to the upper runway. The weather continues to follow us here in The Alaska Range as I type this blog the fog and mist hold strong for the moment. When the clouds part we will be on the first planes to Talkeetna and on our way back from an amazing trip with lots of learning, and humbling moments. We have learned that the Summits are for our ego and the Journey is for our soul. The mountain is not going anywhere and we can always come back as long as we play safe in the mountains.
High hopes for flying back to reality!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
The clouds disappeared last night and stars were out in full force. We left the Karanga Camp a bit after 9 and landed here at high camp right at noon. Lunch went well at 15,000ft and we have been busy preparing for the summit push tonight. Preparations, which seem to be a long time ago back in the states, are paying off here with the team in fine shape along with a great attitude. Some down time in the tents for now before an early dinner then a good nap right into early wake up call around midnight. Weather is nice- fingers crossed. I will try and give a call from the summit tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
June 17, 2017 1:26 am PST
Hi, everyone. This is Tyler Jones and the Denali team. We moved out of High Camp and we're back at 11 Camp. We are hoping to go to the air strip sometime tomorrow. Hope all is well. Everything's good here. Talk to you all soon. Bye.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
I’m so sorry that the mountain and the weather didn’t cooperate with you guys, but I am sure it was still an amazing adventure. The girls are talking about climbing Whitney this year.. .are you up for it? Well, maybe after you rest for a couple of days :)
You are still amazing in every way! Still my hero, my knight in shining armor! I love you so very much and I can’t wait to see you!!!!
xoxo MO
Posted by: Amanda Gunn on 6/17/2017 at 9:47 am
Tym, Tyler, and Team,
You may be too close to home to even get this. So sorry the weather did not cooperate. There were reports of snow, snow, and more snow. I know how hard everyone worked and wanted this to happen. I am confident you made strong, life-long bonds with your team who share your love of climbing. And for you Tym, three’s a charm…so maybe next year! Best wishes for a safe trip home.
Love, Mom and Zeppelin
Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/17/2017 at 8:54 am
June 16, 2017 11:35 pm PST
Well everyone, we hung on as long as we could at 17 Camp. We woke to high winds and blowing snow and waited patiently for them to dissipate. They did not. After dragging our feet in vain, still hoping for some workable weather, we finally began our descent back to 14 Camp. Arriving around dinner time, the team wolfed down what could (hopefully!) be our last Mac and Cheese meal for a while and racked out for what will be a few short hours before we head downhill for this season.
While we did not stand on top of Denali this year, we are lucky to have tried and happy to be heading home none the worse for wear. It has been a real treat to all climb together and we will be checking in from further down this beautiful mountain. Wish us good luck and fair winds on the last legs of our adventure, it ain't over yet...
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Waiting to hear you all arrived safely at base camp and are flying back to hot showers and a good meal! Praying for you Steve!
Mike and Pat
Posted by: Mike and Pat Lurakis on 6/19/2017 at 9:48 pm
Steve. A disappointment for sure. What do they say about mountains - getting to the top is optional but getting down is mandatory. Denali denied you the top so be safe getting back down. Safe travels .
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Good weather and safe travels!!!
Posted by: Christina perez on 6/19/2017 at 9:45 pm
Hi Hans, Anja, all climbers and guides,
I try to send you sunny weather from Germany!!!
Good luck and full energy for all members…
Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/19/2017 at 11:18 am
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