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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Shishapangma: The Team is Ready to Launch Their Summit Push

On to the roofs of the world!!!! This morning we set our sights to the summit of Shishapangma. Spent the morning packing bags and double checking our equipment. #allthewayup. After 26 days of preparation, we're ready to launch our summit attempt. Excited to reach new heights and goals. Weather forecast says we're set for the 1st. Ramen will toughen us up! We feel strong with the force, and confident on the climb to come. We thank you all for the blog comments, which strengthen our spirits. *This blog was written around the breakfast table, one sentence per member. May the force be with us!!!! The RMI Shishapangma team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Godspeed Elias and crew, be safe and have an amazing time. SWEET!

Posted by: Ben Pucci on 9/27/2016 at 11:55 am

Totally stoked for the team! Can’t wait to read about your progress! Climb safe and stay strong!

Posted by: Mark Leininger on 9/27/2016 at 10:01 am


Shuksan Seminar: Liken & Team Wrap Up Their Week in the North Cascades

The final Mount Shuksan climb of the year ushered in the autumn season with some winter weather last week.  The occasional storm brought us fresh snow and great training conditions.  The whole team was able to learn a ton of mountaineering skills and summit the classic peak via the Southeast Ridge.  Great team. Great trip. RMI Guide Ben Liken
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Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Celebrate at the Dik Dik Lodge

Our team just finished an amazing feast and celebration at the Dik Dik Lodge after a very special seven-day adventure. Easy hike out of the 10,000ft Mweka Camp this morning under clear skies and nice, dry trail conditions. My team didn't need me for any coaching or inspiration, these hardened mountaineers were horses heading to the barn. Had to stop at the park gate about 6,000ft, pick up a whole bunch of summit certificates, then sign out to mark the the team as officially down and clear of the mountain. Game viewing of some of the finest parks in all of Africa starts tomorrow. Sleep is sounding pretty good right now. RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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Mt. Rainier: Unstable Route Conditions Turn Summit Climb Teams

RMI Guides JJ Justman, Mike King with their summit climb teams reached the nose of the Cleaver this morning. Due to route conditions, this was their high point for the climb. Both teams began their descent from Camp Muir at 8:30 a.m.
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Shishapangma: Team Resting Up for Their Summit Push

Greetings all! We've certainly settled back in to life at our 18,500' Base Camp with a second consecutive rest day in the books; all in preparation for our upcoming summit push. Naps were taken. Dining tent discussion came and went throughout the day. The Tootsie Roll jar certainly took a hit. And the sun poked through off and on, giving us our first warming by the sun in a few days. With the sun, a few team members took advantage of some creature comforts with our Base Camp shower setup. (Yes you read that right!) Tomorrow we'll indulge in much of the same as we wait for our weather window to begin our climb to the summit. Until then, thanks for following along, and thank you for all your blog responses and words of encouragement! RMI Guides Robby, Elias, Adam, and the Shishapamgma Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Jarrett,

As I wait for the presidential debate to begin, I find myself kind of envying you, 18,500 feet up there, breathing like an emphysema patient and mostly cut off from the stupidity of the outside world. Despite my fear of heights, I may have to consider spending the next election in the Himalayas. 1/2 to 1/3 of the oxygen at sea level in exchange for a month with no Drumpf, Hillary, Kardashians or other oxygen thieves? I’d take that deal right about now.

Seriously, though, good luck on the summit push. Remember to wear your crampons on the midnight wee trip at the higher camps, observe your turnaround time and maybe by the time you get home, I’ll have taught Mom and Dad how to pronounce the name of the mountain you climbed.  I tried it the other night with Dad after the anniversary party. Big mistake.

See you soon,
Jayme

Posted by: Jayme on 9/26/2016 at 5:34 pm

Always in my thoughts and prayers. Climb strong.

Posted by: Jane Knoff on 9/26/2016 at 12:59 pm


Mt. Rainier: Avalanche Assessment Keeps Teams from the Summit

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs, led by Casey Grom and Nick Hunt, watched the sunrise from Ingraham Flats this morning before heading back to Camp Muir. The guides assessed unfavorable avalanche conditions, which kept them from the upper mountain. Both teams are back at Rainier Basecamp, safe and sound.
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Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Summit!

Jambo! Mark Tucker checking in from Uhuru Peak, the top of Africa. Under perfect conditions, we have a group of intrepid mountaineers on the summit. A great climb. I couldn't keep up with these guys. Everybody on top. We are doing great, having a gas, looking forward to getting down to the low camp. All is well, everybody sends their best. I don't know how many pictures we can take, but we're doing it, so we'll check in later. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls from Uhuru Peak, the Roof of Africa.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations from Chicago!

Posted by: Tricia on 9/26/2016 at 4:04 am

Congratulations!!!!
Have a safe descent.

Posted by: Evan and Grace on 9/25/2016 at 2:01 pm


Shishapangma: Day of Rest at Base Camp

A well earned day of rest. We have come to the point now in this expedition where things are now earned instead of deserved. Granted we all worked hard on our last rotation. A storm came in and bullied us into coming down a day early. The wind beat us like a naughty pet and kept camp two, our primary objective out of reach. Despite the storm, everyone did great handling themselves and proved they are ready for the final push. Now we must really focus on staying positive and healthy. Our bodies are wearing down even here at Base Camp. The mountain, letting us touch and feel a little bit is hiding no secrets and will demand our strongest effort yet to gain her summit slopes even though our physical selves aren't as tip top as they were two weeks ago. So now we earn it. Nothing will come easy. From here until the end we must become more adept and graceful at dealing with the hardships. The want to come home and hug our loved ones and eat fresh food and enjoy a warm shower is growing stronger everyday. All of us must embrace the spirit of climbing this mountain and believe that working hard, suffering well and giving everything we have both physically and emotionally will earn us a chance to stand on top. These next few rest days will all blend together. Sleep, eat, drink, sleep, cards, read and so on. I personally spiced things up today when I crawled into the Gamov bag just to see what it was like and 15 minutes later had a claustrophobic panic attack and had to be let out before hyperventilating. This provided a touch of humor but all in all we now must rest and wait. We all understand what these next two weeks will bring. We came here to climb Shishapangma and we will give her our finest effort. Even during days of rest. More on that tomorrow. RMI Adam Knoff
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Cowie!

I hope you are having a nice time resting at base camp for a few days…but really, isn’t every day a rest day for you? It must be nice always being carried up the mountains! You better be keeping everyone in good spirits, but if you need some help, tell Mark that Jack got a B on his chemistry test yahoo!! He must really be scared of what is going to happen when you get home. Remind Mark to take some good pictures, the frames in the living room need an update : )

Be safe and make good choices!

xo EJW

Posted by: Elizabeth Wilkins on 9/25/2016 at 6:22 pm

Soup Ready!
Nice work up there boys. Stay safe

Posted by: Geoff on 9/25/2016 at 5:16 pm


Kilimanjaro: Team Moves to High Camp

Hello from High Camp, Barafu, at 15,000' on Kilimanjaro - A left camp and made our way up hill to our High Camp. There are a few clouds above us but we aren't going to worry about that for now. We are settling in to camp and getting ourselves ready for summit day. The creature comforts provided by our great local outfitter The Dik Dik Lodge continues to help make life a bit more manageable. We will have an early dinner before checking our gear and re-packing one more time before we try to get a few hours of sleep before our summit attempt. Wind, clouds and cool temps is the report for now but it's not unusual to wake up to a clear, calm night for the climb. The team continues to do an awesome job and are all in great shape for the push tonight. Wish us luck! We will check in soon from our summit attempt! RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Nicole & the team have a successful & great adventure to the summit… All my thoughts are with you… Lou

Posted by: Lou Walter on 9/25/2016 at 8:54 am

Good luck team, go Jen!

Posted by: Allan on 9/24/2016 at 10:26 pm


Shishapangma: Elias & Team Finish Second Rotation

And... the winds brought us back to Shishapangma Base Camp. We had an incredibly rough night at Camp 1. The storm that unleashed upon finishing our well accomplished tasks above Camp 1 the previous day, was so fierce, that continued this morning with even more determination to make us cut our rotation one day short. After fighting the winds securing our camp, and managing to make breakfast, it was clear we weren't going to get a break. We descended towards Base Camp fully bundled in our warm equipment, knowing though that our well spent time up there is going to pay dividends soon. Now we go to enjoy some more rest in anticipation of our next move. Spirits are high and we look forward to good weather soon! Best regards from Base Camp, RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sorry we missed your call to us this morning with the happy anniversary wishes, but we really appreciated your message and expression of affection. The diner and after party last night was a smash success (or so I’m told). As you might have expected, in keeping with my careful allocation of excess consumption occasions, I duly allocated last night’s affair as my one such occasion for 2016. And as I’d expected, today was a total loss, dedicated exclusively to aspirin, antacids, rehydration and horizontal recovery!  Hopefully your retreat to Base camp was uneventful and the rest there today fulfilling and complete - and even better than mine!. Wishing you and the team nothing but fair skies and calm air from here on!
Love from us both.

Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/24/2016 at 4:32 pm

Go go go! Enjoy and good luck :)

Posted by: Carlos on 9/24/2016 at 2:38 pm

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