Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Moving On Up

June 11, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, Katrina Bloemsma, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches

Elevation: 14,200'

June 10, 2016 - 10:35 pm PT Waking to clear skies and minimal wind was a great way to start our move to 14K Camp. Of course when you walk amongst the clouds sometimes they come say hello. As we crossed the Polo Fields towards Windy Corner, weather set in and the team got their first taste of what Denali can dish out. We managed quite well and rallied through the pass to the calm on the other side, none the worse for wear, but with a few wider eyes to show for the effort. After an easy camp build (Thanks Jonesy!), we dined and toasted our friend Ryan for his Birthday! Katrina even no baked a cheesecake to celebrate the joyous day. That's the news from 14K, stay tuned for the next episode. RMI Guide Jake Beren

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jason, we’ve been watching your progress! We saw Isty and Isabelle today at the Women’s Run…can’t wait for you to see their fabulous dress-up pics!

Sophia and Susan—Trailside friends

Posted by: Susan on 6/11/2016 at 11:54 pm

Happy Birthday Ryan!!! :) (this is a great length to go to avoid another surprise party)

Posted by: Jessica on 6/11/2016 at 2:29 pm

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Moves Into 14K Camp

June 11, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,410'

June 10, 2016 - 10:11 pm PT We woke this morning to much improved weather. Some scattered clouds and a light wind but a huge improvement from yesterday. We had a quick breakfast and set about breaking camp. Just after the sun hit we were off and climbing. The team did a great job today, we had to battle a little around Windy Corner, it was a bit windy (go figure), but we were out of it soon and on to 14K Camp. After tents were up, everyone settled in to our new home above the clouds. Tomorrow we will do some training and fortify our camp with snow walls. Thanks for following along with us. The RMI Upper West Rib Team

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Sorry for the late comments. Garrick just forwarded the link. We are following you from afar. We will follow up on past reports. Congrats so far. Hope all finishes well.

Posted by: James and Sara on 6/12/2016 at 10:03 am

Good job team - hopefully you are all helping and supporting each other! Climbing is of course a group effort and it takes everybody to get everybody to the top safely - make sure to help each other along the way!!!!!!!

Posted by: Jesse Godzala on 6/12/2016 at 9:01 am

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Mt. Rainier: Teams Abort Summit Bid Due to Blowing Snow Conditions

June 11, 2016

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,000'

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Mike Haugen and Mike King, turned at Ingraham Flats this morning after a rough night of snow and high winds. The guides reported an ominous cap over the mountain after checking in from Camp Muir. Shortly after 8:00 a.m., both teams began their descent to Paradise.

Mt. Rainier: Teams Turned Around by New Snow and Cold Temps

June 10, 2016

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,100'

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Nick Hunt were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams turned back at Ingraham Flats this morning. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall called from Camp Muir shortly after 7 am, reporting 8-10” of fresh snow at the Ingraham Flats and very cold temps. Both Summit Climb teams have begun their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise.

Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Learn & Review Rope Skills

June 10, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

June 10, 2016 - 12:12 am PT And back to the tents... Rain kept us at camp today, with the exception of a few hours in the afternoon. We spent that time learning and reviewing more rope skills, and talking about staying motivated for a climb tomorrow. Our hopes are on the South face of the Middle Troll, the main formation that reigns over the Pika glacier. Stay tuned. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to High Camp after Summit Bid

June 10, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Blake Votilla, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

June 9, 2016 - 10:38 pm PT Hello!!! We are all safe and sound back at our high camp after a long summit push. This morning we got out of the tents at the suns first rays to clear but windy weather. We were a bit nervous as the wind extended into the late morning but once we were tied in to the ropes around 10:30 the sun started to grace the slopes of Denali Pass and the wind let up a bit. We climbed smoothly up to the pass.Today was a chilly one, filled with managing our feet, hands, and faces against the pesky cold. Our bodies were spent as we finished Pig Hill and to our surprise the summit ridge was rather warm and welcoming. We took photos, embraced and congratulated each other on a strong effort. The crew made great time on the way down and we are grubbing on soup and ramen, looking forward to descending to more oxygen rich air. Time for a bit of rest for this tuckered out crew! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Congrats team
Very exciting and very thankful to hear you are heading down safe. Please be careful on your way down and cannot wait to hear the stories upon Dan and Eric’s return.
Thanks to the RMI guides for keeping our loved ones safe.
Karen

Posted by: karen Stewart on 6/11/2016 at 6:26 am

Congrats all! Now hurry down Mr. President Oxygen because I’m trying to plan your next expedition :-)

Posted by: First Lady Oxygen on 6/10/2016 at 8:56 pm

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Sits Tight at 11,000’ Camp

June 10, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

June 9, 2016 - 9:22 pm PT We woke up this morning to cold clear sky's with a nippy wind. After a quick breakfast we packed camp, made a cache and got rigged to start climbing. Of course at this point it began snowing heavily, the wind picked up and the visibility went down. We pumped the breaks and hung out in Jake's posh tent for a little bit. By noon thirty we called it and decided to set up Camp at 11 again. 10 minutes later another guided team returned from an unsuccessful cache attempt saying that it was really nasty up there! After getting tents up we got together for some fresh brewed coffee and snacks, the truffled gouda cheese was a huge hit. The forecast for tomorrow is looking better so we are planing on moving up tomorrow. Thanks for following along The Upper West Rib Team

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Reach the Summit of North America’s Highest Peak!

June 9, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Blake Votilla, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310"

June 9, 2016 - 6:16 pm PT Hi Everybody - It's Tyler Jones and the RMI 4 Team. We are standing on the summit of Mt. McKinley, well now Denali. We are all doing well and we will give another shout when we get back to Camp. Thanks for your support and we will talk to you all soon. Ciao - RMI Guide Tyler Jones

RMI Guide Tyler Jones check in from the summit of Denali.

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to Blake and everyone! Lei

Posted by: Lei on 6/10/2016 at 8:33 am

Congratulations team!!! I’m so happy and proud of you guys and hope you have an amazing feeling of accomplishment! Your strength, perseverance, patience and humility when needed carried you to the top! I’m celebrating your achievement here in NYC and hope you have a safe return down!

Ongun I can’t wait to see you and give such a big hug!!!! Mwah!

Posted by: Karina on 6/10/2016 at 6:07 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Turned Back by Weather

June 9, 2016

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,500'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Ben Liken made their summit attempt this morning but turned back after reaching 12,500' due to increased winds and cold temperatures. The teams have returned to Camp Muir were they will have a short break before continuing to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Good work teams!

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

June 9, 2016 - 1:56 am PT We awoke this morning inside a ping pong ball. Watching the weather for a few hours revealed a slightly improving trend, certainly no deterioration. We decided that it was manageable and set forth. The clouds we traveled through and among were friendly and trail breaking was quite doable for this squad. We kept flowing up until we strolled into 14 Camp. We dumped a hefty load of supplies to ease our eventual move to the upper mountain. We are sitting pretty back at 11,000' Camp, fed and ready for bed. Nice work team! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dear B-Law, if you’re reading this note you already know. The house has been boarded up. The doors. The windows. Everything. We’re at the Comfort Inn. Room 112. I love you. Austin

Have fun Team. Brad, send me a postcard from the top.

Posted by: Austin on 6/9/2016 at 6:40 pm

Hi Mattie-

We miss you so much and love hearing about your team’s progress through Jake’s updates. The boys, the PC’s, Adryan, Taira and I are all praying for favorable weather for you in the days ahead. Stay warm, rested, hydrated and focused! Love from us all!

Lil

Posted by: Lil on 6/9/2016 at 6:38 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Moving On Up

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Moves Into 14K Camp

Mt. Rainier: Teams Abort Summit Bid Due to Blowing Snow Conditions

Mt. Rainier: Teams Turned Around by New Snow and Cold Temps

Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Learn & Review Rope Skills

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to High Camp after Summit Bid

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Sits Tight at 11,000’ Camp

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Reach the Summit of North America’s Highest Peak!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Turned Back by Weather

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 14,000’ Camp

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