Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 6:09 pm PT
Good evening,
The sun made its way past the curtains flickering in the room. Knowing the sun was partly out was a good sign for flying today. As we made our way to the hangar, we got the call telling us to get our butts in gear. It was time to load the planes. Street shoes were traded in for boots, jeans traded for climbing pants. The air was filled with the roar of the planes and also nerves and excitment knowing that we were about to start our expeditions. Great views and a smooth ride brought us to the Kahiltna Base Camp. Just as we were so excited to fly onto the glacier, other teams stood ready and excited to fly off. We will be them in a few weeks. The rest of the day was spent setting up camp and refreshing skills. We will wake early tomorrow morning to make our way to the next camp.
Let the fun begin,
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 4:48 pm PT
We finally got turned in around 11 pm last night after building camp and getting some food and water in us. The night was calm and cold. The weather pattern is supposed to be breaking up through the day so if we get some visibility and lighter winds above we’ll try for the summit tomorrow. The Team is doing well and getting a little anxious about whether the conditions will cooperate. We built some wind walls out of snow as our activity today. Some light snow and solar on the tents allow us to focus on hydration, food and keeping our gear dry so that we are ready to launch in the morning....if the weather and mountain allows. That’s all from 17 Camp.
Hey Tom! I am with you every step of the way!!! Sending prayers for Strong Climbing!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/12/2021 at 2:41 am
So excited camp that y’all secured high camp! We cannot wait for updates over the next couple days. Thinking of you all, cheering you on, and crossing our fingers for clear weather for your summit bid. Keep on keeping on! Yeehaw! (Love you, Abbs!)
Posted by: Rae on 6/11/2021 at 9:45 am
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team led by RMI Guide Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 10:45 am today via the classic and challenging Kautz Route. The team climbed above the clouds through knee and waste deep snow and navigated four ice pitches in the Kautz Ice Chute to reach the summit. They will spend the remainder of their time on the mountain honing their expedition skills, and plan to descend Friday.
Congratulations to Today's Team!
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Dave Hahn radioed from the Summit of Mt. Rainier at 9:45 am PT today! Recent storms have deposited about two feet of new snow on the mountian. The team climbed strong to break trail, and the view from the top was the big pay-off!
The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to Today's Team!
Team, WAY TO GO! You all ROCK! I am utterly impressed and hope your climb down is as simple as you wish.
Posted by: Jenny Reynolds on 6/10/2021 at 11:58 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Wednesday, June 9, 2021 - 9:40 pm PT
We woke up hoping to cache below 14,000 Camp, the mountain had other plans so we spent the day eating, reading, relaxing, and building a snow fort. Hopefully tomorrow the weather complies and we can move supplies up the mountain.
RMI Guide Kiira Antenucci
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
Wednesday, June 9, 2021 - 10:42 pm PT
The weather forecast has been calling for a tapering of the wind and clouds above 17,200’ beginning late Thursday. After being camp and tent bound for almost a week we decided to move camp. The weather was warm, cloudy, windy, hot and cold all over the 7ish hours it took us to move. There was some uphill and downhill traffic that we dealt with. The climbing on the West Buttress is by far the highlight so far. With expansive views of the Peter’s glacier and the black rock of the North Summit the team kept their heads down and did the hard work. We are safe in camp working on dinner and drinking water. A rest day is likely tomorrow as Friday seems to be the day for a summit attempt. Thanks for following along.
Awesome job you guys!
Posted by: Roger Rood on 6/11/2021 at 9:37 am
Very glad for all that you were able to make the change of camps as you prepare for your climb to the summit. Praying for good weather and a beautiful day. Congratulations to Rob
Posted by: TÃo Kleberg on 6/10/2021 at 7:38 pm
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
Wednesday, June 9, 2021 - 7:22 pm PT
Hello everyone,
We woke this morning goal oriented and optimistic. We knew if we wanted to fly we had a lot of chores to get done to be ready when the pilots said it was time. As we packed our duffels and packs and rearranged gear we all kept a hopful eye on the clouds above, hoping they would clear and give us the window we wanted. Unfortunately our patience did not pay off and our window for flying closed. But the day was not lost as we are now ready to try to tomorrow. So with dinner time approaching we will enjoy hopfully one last dinner at a table and fly in the morning.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team
Fidel says, “I love you!” All of Wellsville is cheering for you. Love you lots.
Posted by: Anna Haring on 6/11/2021 at 6:59 pm
Pulling for you all and the weather to clear up so you can get in there! Also, I swapped my Rainier 4 day for the Aug 30th 5 day. Hoping one or both of you are guiding it. Be safe and good luck!
Posted by: Shane Summers on 6/10/2021 at 8:56 pm
Posted by: JM Gorum, Pepper Dee, Cal Smith, Stephen Inman, Jackson Breen, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,400'
The Five Day Climb June 5 - 9 ascended to Camp Muir on Monday after their inital orientation and Mountaineering School days. Yesterday they enjoyed some additional time working as a rope team and walking in crampons as they traveled above Camp Muir to Ingraham Flats. They were able to explore more of the mountain and see a bit of the route. Today they left Camp Muir hoping to reach the summit. They traveled up to Ingraham Flats and then started to ascend the Disappointment Cleaver. Unfortunately new snow and potential avalanche danger forced them to turn back at around 12,400'. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. They will conclude their program in Ashford later this afternoon.
the same thing happened to me in 1969 !!!! That was a long time ago. But over the years, I was successful 4 more times. I will never ever forget those great experiences, so do not give up. Book another climb as soon as possible. bill bussey
Posted by: bill bussey on 8/18/2021 at 11:59 am
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, June 8, 2021 - 2:52 pm PT
The weather front that was forecasted finally arrived in camp last night. While the winds and snow were light the weather above 14,000' Camp looked foreboding. We are planning on a move to 17,000' camp on Thursday unless the weather breaks in the morning. With the last push up in sight the team is busy playing cards, engaged in spirited debates on various issues and enjoying walking around camp meeting other climbers.
Mike Fortier would like to wish his wife a happy birthday!
RMI Guide Mike King
Hoping for clear weather, and continued high vibes for the crew! So stinking proud of y’all. Love you, so big, Abby!
-Rae
Posted by: Rae on 6/9/2021 at 7:00 am
Sabom, 94 degrees and 91% humidity in SoTex. The Mosquitos in the OP are healthy and active. Cars are selling like candy bars. Steady as she goes, my friend! See you soon!
TS
Posted by: Thomas Stephens on 6/9/2021 at 5:37 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday, June 8th, 2021 - 3:34 pm PT
We slept in till ten today, then enjoyed a delectable brunch of bagels and lox. Seems like an interesting dichotomy to be eating such luxurious meals in such an inhospitable place.
We are spending the remainder of the day resting, eating and stocking up on calories and sleep to give us the strength we need to hopefully carry to just below 14,000' Camp tomorrow.
RMI Guides JT, Kiira, Alan and the RMI team
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
So glad to hear the sun made an appearance and you’re underway. Best wishes for the whole team. I’m thinking of you Byron!
Posted by: Heather Collins on 6/11/2021 at 5:40 pm
Get it, Dustin!! Make Kareem proud with those clear glasses!
Posted by: Drew Dykstra on 6/11/2021 at 1:06 pm
View All Comments