Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Tyler Jones, Hannah Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'
Today's Mt. Rainier summit climb teams, led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones and Hannah Smith, turned at the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300'). The guides reported cold and icy conditions. They are currently on their descent to Camp Muir and will be in Ashford early afternoon.
Last night's unanticipated storm fizzled out a bit after midnight, but the high winds stayed around and buffeted our camp through the night. We woke up at 2:30 am to see if there was any chance of climbing, but heavy gusts made it clear that wasn't an option.
Instead we stayed in bed until almost 8:00 am this morning, only climbing out to hear water for coffee. After a quick breakfast we decided to go on a walk and try for another peak. By 12:30 pm today we were standing on top of Naramdal Peak at 13,405'. The coolest part of Naramdal is that it is the convergence of Mongolia, China and Russia, so depending how you stand you can be in two or all three countries at once.
We are back in camp now, relaxing and resting. If the weather is good in the morning, we will try to climb Khuiten, then descend to Basecamp. If the weather is not good we will probably get packed up and go down earlier in the morning to avoid the worst of the bad weather that is forecasted for Saturday evening and Sunday.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Greetings,
A beautiful rain-free day was finally had here in the Cordillera Blanca. The sun came out and stayed out today, which was perfect for an acclimatization day here at Base Camp at 14,200’. We got up and attempted early this morning to take a quick walk up to the Tocllacoccha overlook (Lake Toclla) to admire the beautiful glaciers pouring off of Tocllaraju into the sparkling bluish green lake below. It stressed our bodies just enough and took us to 15,300’ as we continue our acclimatization process. The afternoon was quite chill, as we took some siestas, and reviewed all of our knots and hitches for our climbs ahead.
On top of all our fun today, the culinary adventure continued. Today, our cook, Emilio, prepared for us Cornish hen eggs and hash browns, potatoes, green beans and avocado salads, popcorn, beef and rice, chickpea soup, and quinoa pudding. All in one delicious day of eats. We’re living so large with our food up here that people down in town would be jealous.
Tomorrow, our process continues as we hope to head to 16,200’, to the toe of the Ishinca Glacier to do some more acclimatizing and and training. We’ll let you know how the views are!
Until then, good night!
RMI Guide Robby Young and Team ‘Well Fed’
Never tasted cornish hen eggs, meals sound like a gourmet restaurant not prepared on a mountain. Trey, I know you are enjoying your adventure.
Posted by: Phyllis Craig on 7/19/2019 at 12:41 pm
Hope the weather holds. Food sounds delish! Hey Trey!
Posted by: Bridget on 7/19/2019 at 6:57 am
Thursday, July 18, 2019
The skies cleared last night after dinner and we got a nice moonlit view of Salkantay. Well fed and feeling the cold in our toes we turned in for the night after a long day. The snow started about 3:00 am and left a thin white blanket on our camp and trail to Incachiriaska Pass. The Team did well with the altitude and the trail was in great shape with a little snow and moisture. While at the pass the low clouds lifted to provide a spectacular view of Humantay, Salkantay and a few peaks to the North.
We walked in the rain and sleet to our lunch spot and continued after lunch in a nice dry breeze. Our wet rain gear dried out and we enjoyed a nice walk down valley into the small subsistence village of Pampachuana located at 13,120’. The Team is doing great and has really enjoyed the solitude of this trip so far. We are tucked into our tents to avoid the current squall of rain. We are warm, dry and happy.
RMI Guide Mike King
Buenas tardes from Refugio Huascarán.
We are back on the move, and we left town again this morning fully psyched for our last objective. Huascarán was in view all day from the early morning drive to our 4-hour hike, and it never got any smaller! We are perched at 4,675m, on a beautiful rocky terrace next to the refugio on the edge of the glacial moraine. Our porters are currently helping out with dinner, and we're all hoping to go to bed pretty soon here.
Stay tuned for more,
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos and team
Hello again everyone!
Today the team started the day a little earlier with a nice breakfast prepared by Dasha, then set out on our last acclimatizing hike just after 8:00 to make use of the better (firmer) snow conditions and beat the forecasted afternoon storms.
The team did a great job hiking as we made our way up to about 15,000ft in just over three hours, setting a new record for some. We stopped along the way to take a few breaks and enjoy the intermittent views as the weather flipped between sun breaks and small snow squalls.
After reaching our high point we made our way back to camp just in time for another enjoyable lunch.
The afternoon was spent around camp just relaxing in our little huts after our big day.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and team
The team had a very nice day here on Kilimanjaro, waking to beautiful clear skies and hiking in sunshine all day. We started with a 6:30 wake up and packing before moving into our dining tent for a nice breakfast with porridge, scrambled eggs, toast, bacon fresh fruit and even fresh dark roast Tanzanian coffee.
We hit the trail around 9 am and slowly made our way up the rocky trail with incredible views of Kili above. After about five hours we reached our next camp that sits on the Shira Plateau, which is one of the three dormant volcanoes that make up Kili.
A lot of wet soggy cloths and gear is now bone dry, getting us back into great shape for our next few days on the trail.
All is well at 12,500'.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Y’all are doing it!!!!! Sara, fantastic newsletter!!!! Your way with words is so powerful! We are all rooting for your team and cannot wait to hear the stories!!!! Congrats on taking a BIG dream and making it reality!!! #primefamily #squeezetheglutes #dreambig
Posted by: RAB on 7/19/2019 at 8:41 am
So excited to read about your adventure!! You all are amazing people and I am so proud of you!!! Stay strong and safe!!!
Posted by: Melissa on 7/19/2019 at 8:12 am
Today was unexpectedly a big move day. After climbing yesterday, the team was planning to take a rest day and recoup, but the forecast had different plans for us.
After looking at upcoming weather and counting the days available to us we decided to move up to High Camp and try to utilize the current high pressure window.
Walking up the glacier was rather uneventful and we made it to our camp at 12,000ft in 5.5 hours. When we arrived the wind picked up and clouds started to build. As we eat dinner it is currently hailing outside and we can hear thunder in the distance. So much for utilizing the good weather!!
We're not sure what to expect tomorrow and the forecast doesn't seem reliable, so we're just going to wake up and see how things look.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Posted by: Win Whittaker, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The Four Day Climb July 15 - 18 led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Mike Uchal were unable to climb today. The group is warm and dry at Camp Muir and will begin their descent around 9 AM.
The above photo is from the team above Paradise on July 16 for their Mountaineering Day School.
See you at Paradise with Rainier! Hugs to all!
Posted by: Candace Weisser on 7/18/2019 at 9:32 am
Sending prayers for safe climb and return to base camp.
Posted by: Marilee Adams on 7/18/2019 at 8:08 am
Hello from the Ishinca Valley in the beautiful Cordillera Blanca! Oh boy, what a treat it is to finally be in the mountains after 4 days in and around town. It is a beautiful setting here at Ishinca Base Camp, nestled between massive snow and ice covered giants at 14,400’. The peaks around us soar up to 20,000’ and it’s a sight to behold.
It took us about 4 hours to make the move here from the trail head. We donned day packs after leaving the bulk of our weight with the donkeys and arrieros, and enjoyed a light weight walk all the way in under sunny skies. Soon after setting up camp, the afternoon rains reared their ugly heads, but luckily we were already warm and dry in our tents.
Tonight, believe it or not, we were treated to a trout dinner with baby potatoes, chicken soup, and jello. We live our best lives here in Peru, and our cook Emilio is a huge part of that.
Tomorrow, we’ll take’er easy. A little walking, a little technical training, and maybe even some napping. We’ll fill you in tomorrow. Until then, thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Robby Young and Team ‘Trucha’
PS - Spanish word of the day is Sombra (Shade)
We’re really enjoying these posts! Sending best wishes for great hiking and beautiful weather. Go, Ben!
Posted by: Barbara W on 7/18/2019 at 6:47 pm
Glad you got a chance to give it a try! See you.next month.
Posted by: Ken Wanderer on 7/19/2019 at 10:37 am
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