Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
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Friday, July 5, 2019 - 11:02 PM PT
We woke up when the direct sun hit our tents and sprung into action. We had done coffee and ate some breakfast and headed downhill.
After a great climb along the ridge out of 17,000' Camp, we hit the fixed lines and made our way down to 14,000' Camp.
Since the temperatures have been so warm lately, we decided to set up camp here at 14k. We will head further downhill when the temps are cooler and the glaciers are more frozen. We will see how far we make it on our walk out tomorrow. We may make it as far as Basecamp and catch a plane tomorrow. If the snow gets too soft, we can camp one more night and head back to Talkeetna the next day. Let's hope for a good freeze!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete
On The Map
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Chad Gaffigan, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
Friday, July 5, 2019 - 9:46 PM PT
Finally, the perfect weather arrived! We made good use of this clear, calm, sunny, relatively warm day as we motivated on up to 17,200' Camp. The alarms at 14 Camp went off at 4:30 and we were walking uphill in pleasantly cool shadows by 6:45. We had the advantage of having traveled this terrain before, we had the added advantage that other teams had tracked it in for us yesterday following the days of new and blowing snow. And finally we had the huge advantage of the extra acclimatization days and nights spent at 14,000. We were on the beautiful crest of the West Buttress proper before the morning sun found us. And we were up Washburn’s Thumb and taking a break close to 16,900 when we greeted Mike Haugen’s victorious team making their way carefully down the ridge crest. It wasn’t long after that -at 12:40- when we rolled into the camp they’d just left for us at 17,200. The early arrival and pre-built camp meant we had a very easy afternoon of resting and drinking water. We tried to limit our time out in the intense high altitude sun, but every now and then one of our climbers or guides could be found at the easily accessible edge of camp, staring wide-eyed at the drop down to 14 Camp or the bigger drop to the Kahiltna Glacier... or to the bigger drop down to Anchorage. There is still smoke in the air, but I didn’t hear many complaints about limited views.
In late afternoon we sat down to talk about the summit attempt we’ll make in the morning. The forecast could not be better. We’re feeling quite lucky and optimistic.
Even so, it will be a tough climb and it will work us hard. Every climber took an extra portion at dinner with the big day in mind.
Dead calm at 8:40 PM, sun still high in the sky, all for tonight. Stay tuned.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Alex Halliday led their Four Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported a beautiful day and a great climb as they were reaching the crater rim just before 7 AM PT.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Awesome!
Looking forward to our climb on the 10th
Posted by: Michael on 7/6/2019 at 2:25 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Huascaran
Elevation: 10,000'
Good evening from Huaraz!
We have officially started our 2019 multi-peak climbing adventure. Everyone arrived in Peru on time, and we proceeded yesterday to do the long drive between the country's capital and the Huaraz, the epicenter of climbing activity in this Andean country. The drive brought us over Conochocha Pass, nearing 4,200 meters of elevation and with astonishing views of the immediate massif of Pastoruri mountains, as the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca.
Without much hesitation, we continued on today with an acclimatization hike to Lake Churup, at 14,400ft above town. Beautiful turquoise waters below a steep peak of the same name, provided the best rewards for the first day of activity on our trip. The day followed with a team's lunch in town, and getting pre packed for tomorrows drive and approach to Base Camp. Everyone is excited, in great spirits and the weather looks good for the next few days. Cebollapampa Base Camp, between Chopicalqui and Yanapacha (our next objectives over the next few days) await!
Stay tuned for our updates from the mountain.
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos & JT Schmitt
Excited for you all! Hugs for Kim.
Posted by: Pete on 7/8/2019 at 2:51 pm
Hello from Louisiana. Good Luck and have a Great Trip.
Posted by: Tammy Kaiser on 7/8/2019 at 6:57 am
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise Glacier team, led by RMI Guide Ben Ammon, spent the week on Mt. Rainier. The crowning point was this morning. They reached the summit of Mt. Rainier! The week entailed various mountaineering skills, such as crevasse rescue techniques, anchor placements, ice climbing, belays, rappelling and much more.
We look forward to congratulating them on a successful week this afternoon!
Hello again from Russia!
Things are good here and the team is excited for tonight! We did a little prep for tomorrow by reviewing a few climbing techniques with our crampons and ice axe and then relaxed the remainder of the day. Ok, there might have been a little more volleyball and some snowmobiling.
Our cook, Dasha, has done a great job of filling our bellies with plenty of good old home cooked Russian food, which includes borsch and plenty of soups and salads. We had a thorough discussion about tonight's upcoming climb and everyone is packed up and ready. Hopefully the weather continues to hold and we'll be up shortly after midnight and after a quick breakfast hop on the snowcat to give us a bump a little further up the mountain. This will shorten our climb a little and increase our chance of reaching the highest point in Europe.
Keep your fingers crossed for us!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and comrades
On The Map
Good luck for entire team to the highest point in Europe! huge hugs to Tibor!
Posted by: Katie Kelemen on 7/5/2019 at 10:08 pm
Good luck Riley and the rest of the team - looking forward to hearing all about it!
Posted by: Sally on 7/5/2019 at 12:38 pm
RMI Guide Brent Okita and the Mt. Rainier Summit Climb left Columbia Crest at 7:45 am. Brent said the weather was a little chilly with 15 mph winds, sunny skies and some clouds around.
Congratulations to today's summit climb team!
Congratulations! Can’t wait to see pictures!
Posted by: Julie Bednar on 7/5/2019 at 8:16 am
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,310'
Thursday, July 4, 2019 - 11:32 PM PT
All of our hard work and efforts paid off today with a trip to the summit of Denali!
As soon as we woke up, we knew the the mountain was finally inviting us to go to the top. Although there were some pretty good winds along the summit ridge, it was clear and sunny and it allowed us to achieve our objective. What a view from the top today!
We are so proud of our team and all of their hard work! It has been a long day with over a 12-hour round trip from high camp!
I think we need some sleep!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
On The Map
Congrats to all the climbers! Great job Meghan!! I admire all of u!! Gayle
Posted by: Gayle Conarello on 7/7/2019 at 6:01 pm
WOW, Andrew! Congratulations!!!
Posted by: Paul Myers on 7/7/2019 at 12:37 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Chad Gaffigan, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, July 4, 2019 - 9:38 PM PT
Independence Day on Denali dawned clear and a bit gusty. Moving higher wasn’t terribly practical for us on this day, although it didn’t seem impossible. We were encouraged at our 9 AM breakfast to know that Mike Haugen’s RMI team was starting out from high camp bound for the summit. That will make our move tomorrow a great deal easier as we’ll be able to coordinate a "gear swap".
Today, forecasts called for high pressure building, hence the wind, but the prediction was that the wind would calm as the day went on, which is what we saw. It was still gusting pretty good as we set off at noon for the “Edge of the World”. Twenty minutes of roped glacier travel brought us to the very edge of the plateau we are camped upon. It is always a fun shock to look virtually straight down for thousands of feet to the glaciers below. After days of camping on a flat expanse, one can forget how high we’ve already climbed and a visit to the edge serves as a great reminder. The views of the West Rib and a portion of Denali’s South Face are stupendous and today we enjoyed smoke-free views of the southern Alaska Range. Mt Spurr and the Tordrillos seemed much closer than their hundred miles. We each ventured out on an overhanging granite boulder for a hero shot or two and a look into the abyss.
Back at camp we organized and pared down and packed for moving up.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Wow! Truly amazing Meghan! Happy 4th!!
Peg
Posted by: Peg DecFilippis on 7/5/2019 at 3:16 pm
Hello again everyone
The weather continues to be beautiful here on Mt. Elbrus for us. We started the day with a nice breakfast prepared by our amazing cook Dasha, then set out on our last acclimatizing hike just after 8 AM to make use of the slightly cooler weather and better snow conditions.
The team did a great job hiking as we made our way up to about 15,000ft in three hours, setting a new elevation record for some. We stopped along the way to take a few breaks and enjoy the view as well as chat with the other climbers that are here from all over the world, including some friends who recently reached the summit of both Everest and Denali in the last 2 months!
After reaching our high point we made our way back to camp just in time for another enjoyable lunch.
We spent the afternoon hitting a volleyball around camp and just relaxing in our little huts after our big day. Everyone is doing well and in good spirits.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and comrades
On The Map
Hugs and big wet kisses to our APA and hunny! We love you! Wish you all good luck on the summit tomorrow!
Mea and the little Kelly’s.
Posted by: Tam Doan on 7/4/2019 at 11:36 am
I bet you are all ready to get off the mountain- Meghan did you bring any wine to celebrate?
Congratulations and hope everyone has an easy descent!
Hugs, Lisa
Posted by: Lisa Miller on 7/6/2019 at 10:43 am
Who ever thought you would need cooler temps to continue? Prepare yourself. It’s 100 degrees and higher, in many states throughout the US, and California has had its share of earthquakes/aftershocks during the past 2-3 days.
Enjoy yourselves and be safe as you complete this amazing journey. Kristen is looking forward to seeing you,Tym. Don’t forget to send a few pictures.
GO TYM!! GO TEAM!!
Love Mom and Zeppelin
Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 7/6/2019 at 9:58 am
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