Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Chad Gaffigan, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,500'
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Monday, June 24, 2019 - 9:56 PM PT
Two inches of snow covered our tents in the wee hours this morning at 9,500' on the Kahiltna. It was still falling at 3:30 when the alarms went off so we gave it another 30 minutes to shape up. Sure enough, at 4 AM things were looking better. We rallied and ate breakfast in our dining tent. At 5:40 it was time for moving up. The walking was pretty easy, despite the new snow and it was all very quiet, traveling in muffled cloudy conditions. In an hour’s time we were at Kahiltna Pass at 10,000', the very northernmost start to the 47 mile long glacier. Time to turn right and go up some steeper hill to 11,000', which we did. We reached the camp at around 8 AM, having walked out of the clouds in the process. It was a spectacular and novel setting, up close to some great hanging ice cliffs and towering rock buttresses. We dug a raven-proof cache in the snow and buried the food, fuel, and equipment we’d carried. It was then an easy and pleasant walk down with light packs and empty sleds. Finally it was a relief to come into our already established camp at 9500 ft and relax. There was no digging to be done or tents to put up, which was just as well. It got blazing hot, even with all of the cloud lingering. We napped away another quiet afternoon.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Walter, Taylor Bickford, Nikki Champion
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
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Monday, June 24, 2019 - 1:19 PM PT
We're taking a rest day today after a big day yesterday and in preparation of moving to High Camp on Denali for our summit bid. The weather is sunny today even though snow and clouds were forecasted. We're hoping to move to High Camp in the next day or two if we get a weather forecast that looks favorable for a summit attempt. In the meantime, we're resting and acclimating and getting stronger.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Chad Gaffigan, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,500'
Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 10:01 PM PT
We slept in all the way until 2:30 this morning down at the base of Ski Hill. It rained a little in the middle of the night, but by the time we got up the sky was clear and it was refreshingly cool. We’d busted down camp and were waddling uphill on our snowshoes by 4:45 AM. Our challenge for the day was to gain 1,700 feet in elevation up a series of hills. Views were tremendous as we rose up over the lower Kahiltna. The South Face of Denali with the Cassin ridge charging up the middle was on our right, Kahiltna Dome on our left. There was ice pouring off of every slope and plateau. At around 9,000 ft we could tell that snow had fallen rather than rain, but it was only on the order of a half inch. At 8:15 we rolled onto the flats at 9500 and set up a new camp. There was the usual frenzy of digging to establish tent platforms, a kitchen, latrine, and dining room. By now though we are getting practiced and skilled at the chores that stand between us and a nap. Once the sun is directly on us, it cooks everything and we take refuge in our shelters and beg for an occasional breeze. Dinner brings us together again late in the day and we go over the plan for what comes next. In this case, what comes next is a carry to 11,000 and a return to 9500.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Looking good. Have fun
Posted by: Warren on 6/24/2019 at 9:48 pm
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 8:50 PM PT
What a beautiful day! We are so thankful that the weather has been amazing so far. We will definitely not be fooled into thinking that the mountain won't throw some weather our way soon!
We had a long day bringing a bunch of food, fuel, CMC's, and extra warm clothing up to our next camp at 14,000'. The climbing was great and the crew had a good time. It was nice to be able to see Denali again since our view is obstructed at our camp at 11k.
We all earned our afternoon naps before a hearty dinner of Tasty Bites Indian food with rice.
We are all excited to move up to 14k tomorrow... if the weather is nice to us!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete
On The Map
Dearest Meghan- How’s the blondtourage holding up?
xoxoxo
Posted by: Lisa Miller on 6/25/2019 at 2:13 pm
Happy birthday Zach and Ian! The optimum way to spend a birthday!!
Happy mountaineering to all.
Posted by: Kathy on 6/24/2019 at 9:21 am
Posted by: Eric Frank, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Eric Frank and Pepper Dee with their Four Day Climb teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning a little before 7 AM. Both guides reported no winds and overall perfect conditions.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Posted by: Mike Walter, Taylor Bickford, Nikki Champion
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 6:53 PM PT
We woke early again this morning and the weather did not disappoint. Clear skies with a beautiful early morning alpenglow on Foraker and Hunter greeted us as we fired the stoves. We woke the team at 5am and we were on the move by 7am. Our goal: to get a cache of food and fuel up high on the West Buttress Ridge, ideally to high camp at 17,200'.
The sun was still behind the West Rib of Denali and we climbed the approach slopes and most of the fixed ropes in the shade. The sun found us at around 16,000' and was a welcome companion for the rest of the day as the team climbed the aesthetic ridge from 16,200' to 17,200'. We made it to high camp in good form and dug a hole in the snow in which to leave our cache. After an hour and a half breathing the rare air of 17,200', we descended back to camp, the climb took us almost 5 1/2 hours and we descended in 2 1/2 hours.
We'll enjoy a good night's rest tonight and then take a rest day tomorrow. That should put us in perfect position to take advantage of the next good weather window for a summit bid.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Mylan,
Thank you for the updates, glad to see you’re alive. Can’t wait to hear all about your trip, stay safe. Love you
Posted by: Courtney Urban on 6/24/2019 at 8:29 am
Go CK! You are an inspiration! Stay strong and be safe! Sending you good vibes! Can’t wait to hear all about it, so make sure you come back in one piece!
Posted by: Dove on 6/24/2019 at 6:33 am
This morning we awoke to stars above, starting our climb in beautiful weather. On the long traverse to the saddle between the mountain’s east and west summits we had a spectacular sunrise, and views deep into the Caucasus. This evolved quickly though into whiteness, as we climbed into a chilly cloud cap.
Despite the weather we were able to ski right off the top and while visibility was marginal, the snow was excellent by high altitude ski mountaineering standards. In my experience, any 6000’ spring descent usually starts a little scratchy up high, has a magic perfectly sun softened middle section, and finishes a little too soft. That’s exactly how today was, but the magic middle section also included the magic of bursting through the clouds to a world of color, light and contrast beneath. Worth the price of admission as someone said in the moment.
Now our team is back in the lowlands safe and sound, soaking up oxygen as thunderstorms roll through the valley. Life is good here in Russia.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
On The Map
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Chad Gaffigan, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
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Saturday, June 22, 2018 - 9:43 PM PT
All is well at 7,800 ft on the Kahiltna Glacier. At 30 minutes after midnight we fired the stoves at Basecamp and checked with the folks. This time all were feeling good and healthy and ready for climbing. We ate breakfast in the shadows -it doesn’t get dark this time of year, but it does get cool and shadowy without direct sunshine. We packed up and roped up and began shuffling out of base at 3:15 AM. Conditions were excellent -the surface had frozen up enough so that walking was easy and the sleds came along with minimal resistance. Best of all, crevasse problems were nearly nonexistent and the route was consequently more direct than in other years. Partway through our morning, we met Mike King’s victorious team heading for the airstrip. We exchanged handshakes and fist bumps and wished each other well. At 7:45 AM we pulled in to the base of ski hill and began building a camp. The sun was out by then but we had plenty of time to get shelter up before things got intensely hot in the giant reflector oven we call home. We passed the day napping, drinking water and chatting to one another. By evening there was a steady down glacier breeze but we were comfortably sheltered within our dining tent by then.
Tomorrow is another early start.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Brent Okita, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb June 20 - 23 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide Brent Okita radioed from Columbia Crest around 6:30 AM PT. The teams had a good climb with nice weather and a bit of wind. Both teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 7 AM.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Nice work Hamilton & Alex!! Cant wait to hear about it, and see some pics!
Posted by: Russ on 6/23/2019 at 10:21 am
Congratulations mark great job!
Posted by: Rob Evans on 6/23/2019 at 9:22 am
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Saturday, June 22, 2019 8:28 PM PT
We had a very productive and somewhat relaxing day. Last night brought a bit of snow, but miraculously stopped right as our alarms went off this morning.
We left camp and headed down hill to do a back-carry. This just means that we went down to pick up the gear we cached at 10K. The group did great as they have proven to do every day so far!
After we returned to camp we cooked a great breakfast and worked on recovering by napping and sport eating.
Weather permitting, our plan is to cache food and gear at 14K tomorrow. The climbing continues!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
On The Map
Happy Birthday to Zach & Ian.
Aunt Lyn & Uncle Mick
Posted by: Carolyn Mason on 6/24/2019 at 1:11 am
Happy Birthday to Ian and Zach on June 24th.
Love, Yuri and Yoko (mom and Copper too!)
Posted by: Annette Prochaska on 6/23/2019 at 6:52 pm
Aloha from Hawai’i! It may usually be a tropical paradise out here, but so far today it’s all heavy rain and thunderstorms (which are a real rarity). Loving all the pictures, and hope everyone is having a great time on the climb. Keep getting stronger, and can’t wait to hear more soon! Sending positive vibes to everyone on the team, especially our friend Eric. :)
Posted by: Savannah on 6/25/2019 at 11:58 am
Alec,
I’m following the blog everyday. All of you stay safe. The pictures are gorgeous.
Love,
Owa
Posted by: Owa on 6/24/2019 at 2:39 pm
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