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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Alaska Seminar: Smith & Team Move Camp, Ready to Explore New Location

Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 9:26 PM PT Howdy howdy. Its us again but this time from new location. We decided to pack up camp, load the sleds, and go for a walk. The clouds came and went, giving us gorgeous views of the surrounding peaks and than closing in us making it look like the inside of a pingpong ball. Regardless of where the clouds were though, the furnace was turned to high and sweat ran down our faces. The saying goes freeze or fry in the mountains and we felt the fry. Once we arrived to our new home, we put on our working gloves and got down to business. It's a lot of work putting in a new camp. You gotta make flat platforms for the tents, dig a bathroom, and dig a kitchen. But at the end of the day it feels good to work hard and do some shoveling. Tomorrow will be less work and more play hopefully. Looks like the weather will hold for one more day before the next weather system moves in. So we will take advantage of any sunshine we can get and go explore. Time to catch some Zzz, RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
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Mt. Rainier: Hahn, King and Muir Seminar Team Reach Summit

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 26 - 31 team members gathered at Rainier BaseCamp on Sunday, May 26th for their first day of the program. After some technical training and a thorough equipment check the team started for Camp Muir on Monday morning. The last few days have been spent near Camp Muir while RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Mike King led the team through glacier travel training and crevasse rescue. This morning the team left Camp Muir en route to the summit. Dave reported calms winds and mostly clear skies as the team reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier around 6:30 AM. The team enjoyed over an hour on the summit before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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So proud of you Allison!!

Posted by: Lauren on 5/31/2019 at 5:34 am

Great job Suzi!! Congratulations to the group from Shift4!

Posted by: Ned Shuchter on 5/30/2019 at 10:28 am


Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Back to High Camp after Summit

Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 12:56 AM PT The team is all safely back at High Camp now. It was a long day for everyone and it's past midnight now and were finally killing the stoves for the evening. I'll try and put together a better picture of summit day tomorrow for everyone. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Steve Gately

On The Map

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Congrats all and safe return!

Posted by: Darren Beck on 5/31/2019 at 6:02 am

Nice one Raj and team! Couldn’t have a better leader than Mr Gately himself!!!!!

Well done all. Bravo

Posted by: John Horgan on 5/30/2019 at 8:57 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Summit North Americas Highest Peak

Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 12:26 AM PT Summit! The weather was beautiful this morning with no clouds above us and no sign of wind. We got the stoves cranking again at 4:30 in order to beat the crowds (today was the busiest summit day of the season so far, as there was a backup of climbers that were delayed by last week's stormy weather. We estimate about 100 climbers went for the summit today.). We got rolling out of camp at 8:30 and walked into the frigid, shady slopes of the Audobon, which is a steep traverse for a thousand feet up to Denali Pass. We clipped about 40 snow pickets in a running belay to add security. Around the corner from Denali Pass we stepped into the sun and began climbing south pass Zebra Rocks and the Arch Deacon's Tower into the Football Field. The last hurdle before the summit ridge was climbing up the strenuous Pig Hill up to the Kahiltna Horn. Then the narrow, corniced ridge brought us to the summit at 20,310'. The climb is always challenging, but it was made more so due to cold 15-25 headwinds for most of the climb. We needed to wear goggles and face protection to keep from freezing our skin. But we did it. And we're about to crawl into our sleeping bags at the 17,200' high camp for some well deserved sleep. Tomorrow we will start our descent. RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Congrats Pieter! I enjoyed hearing about your trip on our airplane ride to Anchorage and am excited to see that your climb was a success!

Posted by: Mike Miller on 5/31/2019 at 10:09 pm

Huge congrats, Pieter, and to the rest of your team!!! We are in total awe and couldn’t be happier for you! Can’t wait to hear all about it when you’re back. Sending love and best wishes. xo, Marla, Mer & Kira

Posted by: MARLA on 5/31/2019 at 11:38 am


Denali Expedition: Gorum & Team Settle in to Camp at 14,200’

Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 8:47 PM PT This morning seems like weeks ago. We’re currently settled into our new home at 14 thousand feet, and life is good. Weather cooperated for us all day long, and the team moved quite well. For some reason this camp always seems to have the best weather. A lot of storms that hit 11 and the lower Kahiltna don’t make it this high, and winds that ravage the summit elevations don’t quite make it this low. We’re currently sitting in the sun looking out at a sea of clouds that are certainly covering, and snowing on, our old home. One more reason that we’re happy to be up here. It’s always a hard day getting here, and we’re all ready for dinner and an early bedtime. Tomorrow we’ll walk 500 feet downhill to retrieve our cache, and we’ll spend the rest of the day chilling hard. Until then, the team sends their best to everyone back at home. RMI Guide JM Gorum

On The Map

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Hey JT I am here watching you, NeeNee

Posted by: carol smith on 5/31/2019 at 7:10 am

Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson decide to go on a camping trip. After dinner and a bottle of wine, they lay down for the night, and go to sleep.

Some hours later, Holmes awoke and nudged his faithful friend.

“Watson, look up at the sky and tell me what you see.”

Watson replied, “I see millions of stars.”

“What does that tell you?”

Watson pondered for a minute.

“Astronomically, it tells me that there are millions of galaxies and potentially billions of planets.”
“Astrologically, I observe that Saturn is in Leo.”
“Horologically, I deduce that the time is approximately a quarter past three.”
“Theologically, I can see that God is all powerful and that we are small and insignificant.”
“Meteorologically, I suspect that we will have a beautiful day tomorrow.”
“What does it tell you, Holmes?”

Holmes was silent for a minute, then spoke: “Watson, you idiot. Someone has stolen our tent!”

Posted by: skipper holmes on 5/30/2019 at 10:48 pm


Denali Expedition: Young & Team Fly Onto Kahiltna Glacier

Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 7:19 PM PT Greetings, We’re in! Our pilots nailed a short lived window this morning and the team is all currently on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Despite numerous cloud layers abundant throughout the Range, our amazing K2 pilots made it happen! With a little bit of a late arrival, we’ve opted to hang tight here at Base Camp today, and travel during the cooler hours of the night and early morning tomorrow, and hopefully make camp across the way at 7800’ Camp tomorrow. We’re excited to be here in the Alaska Range, and we’re stoked to get the ball rolling tomorrow as we begin a grand climbing adventure. RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team

On The Map

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Hello,

If someone can relay this information to Rahim I would appreciate it.

“Derek accepted the position”

Good luck on the climb brother!

Posted by: Dustin on 5/31/2019 at 7:56 am

Yay!  Glad to get the party started!  Hope you all had a great first day on the mountain/glacier.

Posted by: Annie Kawasaki on 5/30/2019 at 5:57 pm


Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Summit!

Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 5:00 PM PT Hey all this is the Denali Expedition with RMI Steve Gately. The team and I are on the summit! 100% of the team made it so everybody's up. Everybody's doing well. We had a wonderful morning- blue skies, warm weather. We picked up a little bit of wind towards the summit. We had to work for it at the end there. We're all here safe and sound. We'll give a shout via email to the blog when we are back safe and sound at [17K] Camp. That's all. RMI Guide Steve Gately


RMI Guide Steve Gately calls in from the Denali summit!

On The Map

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Steve! I’m so proud and happy for you for making the summit! I’ll give you a call when you’re on the bottom so I can tell you about the light indoor rock climbing I’ve been doing. Can’t wait to hear all about it.

Posted by: Robbie Snow on 5/31/2019 at 1:55 pm

Congrats!  Keeping you in prayer.

Posted by: Molly Bealer on 5/31/2019 at 9:06 am


Bolivia: Frank & Team End Trip Early

The RMI Bolivia team led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Andy Bond was unable to attempt a climb of Sajama due to several members of the climbing team catching a bug while in La Paz after the climb of Huayna Potosi. The team started out for the mountain but, unfortunately, were forced to return back to La Paz. Due to this the trip ended early.
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Denali Expedition: Young & Team Prepare in Talkeetna

Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 11:21 PM PT Hello all! Greetings from the climbing capital of Alaska...Talkeetna! Our RMI team arrived safely yesterday evening and has been putting in the work and the time to prep for the extraordinary climbing adventure that lies ahead. The team spent a long day today checking our climbing gear, organizing food, and assembling and packing our kitchen for the weeks ahead. It was a beautiful sunny day here in Talkeetna which certainly helped with our productivity and motivation as we look forward to a possible flight into the Range tomorrow morning. We spent the evening enjoying the last of our creature comforts and indulging ourselves on our favorite foods from Twister Creek in downtown Talkeetna. We’re optimistic for the weather tomorrow and we’ll keep everyone in the loop on our progress throughout our expedition. RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and your favorite Denali Team
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Hey Steve glad you made it safe and sound. Wishing you safety and good weather! Cannot wait to hear about it when you get back

Posted by: Tom Keating on 5/31/2019 at 7:42 am

Stephen
Doing great so far
So happy all is going well
Love you
Please be careful , and don’t forget St Joseph
Love
Mom and Dad
To everyone
Your in our prayers

Posted by: John Zabinski on 5/31/2019 at 5:57 am


Alaska Seminar: Smith & Team Go Towards Radio Tower

Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 8:50 PM PT What a day! We woke to great weather, so we saddled up and hit the glacier towards Radio Tower. Felt great to stretch the legs and walk up hill. We zigged and zagged around crevasses, booted up some steeper terrain, and walked a narrow ridge. At the end of it all was great views of the surrounding peaks. Such a fun day to use the skills we have learned and be rewarded by jaw dropping beauty. After walking down in what felt like a microwave of heat, we all took a well-deserved nap before dinner. Nothing like laying down in a warm tent full of down to make you doze off into a dreamy state. Tomorrow we plan on packing up and moving camp up glacier to go explore more of the area. We will see what we get to play on or in in the next coming days. Talk to you all later, RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
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