Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams On Summit

June 6, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Brent Okita radioed at 6:52 am PT as the Four Day Summit Climb teams were approaching the crater rim. Brent reported chilly temps and light winds. They will enjoy some time on the summit before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!

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Absolutely amazing climb!!! Can’t say enough about RMI and to all our guides. You guys really set the tone for my passion for mountaineering. Many a climbs to come with you guys!!! Ecuador, Mexico, Denaili and many more to come!!

Congrats to my new climbing friends on the successful summit!!!

Posted by: Tanner Morrison on 6/7/2018 at 1:35 pm

Amazing Heidi!!! We are all impressed back here at zero elevation. Can’t wait to hear all about it. I hope someone is takin pictures.
Stay warm. Love Eloise, Max and Marco

Posted by: Allison on 6/6/2018 at 3:19 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 5:35 PM PT The team enjoyed an excellent rest at 14,000 ft. today. We started the day with breakfast burritos. These weren't just any breakfast burritos. These burritos were so expertly prepared that they earned the coveted Alden Mills "Best Breakfast of the Trip" endorsement. After breakfast, we lounged, drank second and third rounds of coffee, and planned out the rest of our day. The planning was not very hard, since we really didn't have much to do. We took a walk out to a feature appropriately name the Edge of the World, and gazed 6,000 ft down into the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. On the walk back to camp, the team practiced some rope skills that will greatly enhance our efficiency on summit day. After the hard work was done we ate as much cheese, sausage, and bread as we could in preparation for our summit bid. Now we just wait for a weather window to move to High Camp, and head for the top. The team sends their best to everyone following along back at home. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

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110-102 GSW! Durant 43 pts!

Posted by: Tracie on 6/6/2018 at 8:32 pm

Hey Brett! Currently watching GSW vs. Cleveland! GSW are up 2 games to 0 and currently it’s the 4th quarter of the 3rd game. Score is 88-87 GSW! It’s so cool to watch your ascent! Stay safe everyone!!
Love, Tracie, Brian Erickson and Kennedy

Posted by: Tracie on 6/6/2018 at 8:07 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team All Moved into 14K Camp

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 4:28 pm PT Well our lucky streak with the weather continued today. The Team was up early packing our equipment and taking down tents for our move to 14,200ft camp. The group of gentleman we have on this trip seem to get stronger each day developing skills both physically and mentally. Though we are all a bit warn down from this week's efforts, we are happy at our newly-built camp in the basin. We have spectacular view from our tents, which are currently glacier-front property. We are sitting pretty and looking forward to a full rest day tomorrow along with hydration, acclimatization, and a few skills for higher on the mountain. The camp will also get a few upgrades I’m sure. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Hope you got better sleep last night. Amy pictures of the edge of the world hike? Good luck on the trek on up

Posted by: Peter Tovin on 6/7/2018 at 5:22 am

Hey Gollob! I bet u wish u were in FL. Snow sukcs!

-mikey b

Posted by: Mikey B on 6/6/2018 at 8:07 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams On Top

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Summit! At 8:45 am RMI Guide Dave Hahn radioed to say, "We are walking into the Crater Rim." The mountain has a cloud cap with some high winds and also some sunny skies. The teams will spend some time on top before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team View Winds Moving Up HIgh

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

The winds up high were moving. Snow trails off the mountain into the air. We're snug and cozy at 14K with plenty of food and fuel, So we sit and watch the tails of a mare. This small verse sums up our day. We looked up, saw winds moving snow around up high, and decided to do the prudent thing and sit tight at 14K Camp. We're ready to crack when conditions line up, but until then, some igloo building, heads up, and sunbathing are plenty to keep us happy and occupied. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford and team

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Rich, we are with you all the way!!! Enjoy the climb::)) Love mom and dad

Posted by: Richard Lewis on 6/7/2018 at 4:40 am

Hope you guys get some good weather and a nice clear day. John, Raj & team best of luck and safe return from the top! -waiting for an update…... Erik

Posted by: Erik on 6/6/2018 at 1:52 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear At 14,000’ Camp

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, June 4, 2018 - 10:00 PM PT The gang awoke to a clear, crisp morning on the day of our carry to 14, 000' Camp. The group was raring to go and many could hardly sit still. Whether it was excitement or to keep the cold at bay was difficult to tell. Today would be the first day of climbing, when the group would strap on crampons and walk with an ice ax in their hand. This would be made even more difficult by the ever thinning air as we gain more than 3,000' of elevation on our way to 14,000' Camp. However, this group of climbers, after tackling the approach into 11,000' with professional style, would not be phased by things as trivial as thin air, heavy packs, and the guides incessant reminders to rest step and pressure breath. Right out of camp the climbing hits you head on with a steep slope known as Motorcycle Hill. Lucky for us the snow had been packed down and our crampons with their many points allowed us to send motorcycle with ease. At the top of our first obstacle we were treated to views of the Peters Glacier as well as the Father and Sons wall, an impressive alpine face of granite and blue ice. Further in the distance the wilderness of the Alaskan tundra stretched far beyond the limitations of the human eye. The scale out here is truly impressive. Reinvigorated by the views, the climbers were ready to scamper up squirrel hill and charge across the polo fields straight to Windy Corner. Again luck was on our side as the often ferocious Windy Corner would not live up to its name on this day. With the bulk of the hard climbing behind us, only one hill remained between us and our cache site at 14,000'. In the style that us guides have come to expect from our climbers they crushed the last hill and strolled into 14,000' Camp with ample energy. Friends and other climbers from RMI groups ahead of us treated us with smiles and a much needed water refill as we dumped our gear in our cache and prepped for our return to our Camp at 11,000'. The day was only half over. With water and snacks in our bellies we turned our boots down hill hoping to make it back to the safety and comfort of our tents before the snow turned to mush and the sun baked our minds. The climbers of the Jones expedition once again did not disappoint as all members of our group made it safely back to camp in time for lunch and well earned nap.Tomorrow will be another big day if the weathers on our side? RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott

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David and the rest of the team,

We had dinner last night with Lou Whittaker and his wife Ingrid. He turns 90 soon, but is still going strong. An inspiration.

He told us a rather harrowing tale of his Mt. McKinley (Denali) ascent with his twin brother Jim, Pete Schoening, and John (?) . The good news is that you are in great hands and being much more careful than they were. The most important take away advice I got from his tale is ‘don’t fall.’

We raised a toast to all of you. Much love. Take care.

Posted by: Linda Glein on 6/5/2018 at 4:07 pm

Thank you for the posts and pictures - excellent! The camp times must be as enjoyable as the climb judging from the pictures / views. Enjoy!

Posted by: Matt H's Parents on 6/5/2018 at 9:31 am

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Make Summit Attempt, Turn back due to Winds

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Monday, June 4, 2018 - 9:27 PM PT We woke to mostly clear skies, with some visible wind above us. With very cold temps we waited a little to let it warm up and to see if the winds abated. Temps did warm but the winds remain...not atrociously strong, but something to keep an eye on. Leaving camp at 10:00, along with about 100 of our best climbing buddies, we headed up the "Autobahn" towards Denali Pass. The temps were cold and winds made it chillier. By the time we reached Denali Pass and turned the corner, the winds were in our face, colder and stronger than before. We pressed on, in the hopes that the winds would decrease. But as we gained more altitude, the winds kept increasing and getting colder; it was challenging to stay warm--especially our hands, toes, and fingers. So we turned around at the top of Zebra Rocks (~18,800') and headed back to High Camp. We climbed for seven hours and got back to our tents cold and tired. We'll check the weather forecast to see what our next move will be. Hopefully we will get another chance to go for the top. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Champion effort! May you be well rested for another summit run and may she,the Mountain,help make it so. Many Blessings, Hujo and Katie.

Posted by: HUGH DE PENTHENY O KELLY on 6/6/2018 at 9:08 am

You fellas have fun up there. Maybe have Robby eat some more torts and ride him to the top like a rocket ship…. I don’t know, maybe??? Just think about the 8 cases of beer buried at base camp!

Posted by: Todd Hayes on 6/5/2018 at 8:28 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Carry Up the Fixed Lines

June 4, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Monday, June 4, 2018 - 7:41 pm PT BEST DAY YET! It finally feels like we are out climbing, not just on a long walk uphill dragging sleds. We started the day with some blueberry pancakes and bacon. It left our mountain kitchen messy but was a tasty way to start the day. Then we got all geared up with our ascenders. Ropes and packs and headed up the headwall right out of camp. The high temperature is about 5 degrees F, but in the sunshine we are climbing in a single layer and loving it. We will take another scheduled rest day tomorrow in prep to head to the summit as soon as the weather allows. Best wishes to all our family and friends, we miss you all. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

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You are all such an inspiration! Beautiful photos - amazing people. You got this!

Posted by: Susan Dickson on 6/6/2018 at 3:33 pm

Brett, I assume it was the bacon for breakfast that sealed the deal, not the thrill of the climb or these incredible views!! Wow…those views! Hope you’re enjoying this once in a lifetime experience. We’re all thinking of you. Dan, Audrey, Matthew and Sydney

Posted by: Dan Melanson on 6/5/2018 at 5:11 pm

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Bolivia: Frank & Team Resting in La Paz

June 4, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 11,942'

Like all good mountaineers, it’s okay to be lazy. Two summits in three days, our group enjoyed a much deserved rest day in La Paz. We shopped, we ate and we slept as we get ready for our third and final peak Illimani. The rest day also came at great time, as it was a rainy day in La Paz bringing a fresh coat of snow to the mountains. We’ll enjoy a nice dinner tonight before heading back into the mountains tomorrow! RMI Guide Andy Bond

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach Summit

June 4, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb June 1 - 4, 2018 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Zeb Blais led the teams and reported high winds at Camp Muir overnight that decreased enough for them to make their attempt. They reported good weather with increasing winds as they reached the upper mountain. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

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Yes!!!!! Fantastic!

Posted by: Lisa Koch on 6/4/2018 at 8:24 pm

Great job ty. We are proud of you and the team. You accomplished a great fear

Posted by: Kathie and joel gardella on 6/4/2018 at 5:16 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams On Summit

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team All Moved into 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams On Top

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team View Winds Moving Up HIgh

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear At 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Make Summit Attempt, Turn back due to Winds

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Carry Up the Fixed Lines

On The Map

Bolivia: Frank & Team Resting in La Paz

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach Summit

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