Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Eric Frank, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Eric Frank and Pepper Dee with their Four Day Climb teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning a little before 7 AM. Both guides reported no winds and overall perfect conditions.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Posted by: Mike Walter, Taylor Bickford, Nikki Champion
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 6:53 PM PT
We woke early again this morning and the weather did not disappoint. Clear skies with a beautiful early morning alpenglow on Foraker and Hunter greeted us as we fired the stoves. We woke the team at 5am and we were on the move by 7am. Our goal: to get a cache of food and fuel up high on the West Buttress Ridge, ideally to high camp at 17,200'.
The sun was still behind the West Rib of Denali and we climbed the approach slopes and most of the fixed ropes in the shade. The sun found us at around 16,000' and was a welcome companion for the rest of the day as the team climbed the aesthetic ridge from 16,200' to 17,200'. We made it to high camp in good form and dug a hole in the snow in which to leave our cache. After an hour and a half breathing the rare air of 17,200', we descended back to camp, the climb took us almost 5 1/2 hours and we descended in 2 1/2 hours.
We'll enjoy a good night's rest tonight and then take a rest day tomorrow. That should put us in perfect position to take advantage of the next good weather window for a summit bid.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
This morning we awoke to stars above, starting our climb in beautiful weather. On the long traverse to the saddle between the mountain’s east and west summits we had a spectacular sunrise, and views deep into the Caucasus. This evolved quickly though into whiteness, as we climbed into a chilly cloud cap.
Despite the weather we were able to ski right off the top and while visibility was marginal, the snow was excellent by high altitude ski mountaineering standards. In my experience, any 6000’ spring descent usually starts a little scratchy up high, has a magic perfectly sun softened middle section, and finishes a little too soft. That’s exactly how today was, but the magic middle section also included the magic of bursting through the clouds to a world of color, light and contrast beneath. Worth the price of admission as someone said in the moment.
Now our team is back in the lowlands safe and sound, soaking up oxygen as thunderstorms roll through the valley. Life is good here in Russia.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
On The Map
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Chad Gaffigan, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
.jpg)
Saturday, June 22, 2018 - 9:43 PM PT
All is well at 7,800 ft on the Kahiltna Glacier. At 30 minutes after midnight we fired the stoves at Basecamp and checked with the folks. This time all were feeling good and healthy and ready for climbing. We ate breakfast in the shadows -it doesn’t get dark this time of year, but it does get cool and shadowy without direct sunshine. We packed up and roped up and began shuffling out of base at 3:15 AM. Conditions were excellent -the surface had frozen up enough so that walking was easy and the sleds came along with minimal resistance. Best of all, crevasse problems were nearly nonexistent and the route was consequently more direct than in other years. Partway through our morning, we met Mike King’s victorious team heading for the airstrip. We exchanged handshakes and fist bumps and wished each other well. At 7:45 AM we pulled in to the base of ski hill and began building a camp. The sun was out by then but we had plenty of time to get shelter up before things got intensely hot in the giant reflector oven we call home. We passed the day napping, drinking water and chatting to one another. By evening there was a steady down glacier breeze but we were comfortably sheltered within our dining tent by then.
Tomorrow is another early start.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Brent Okita, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb June 20 - 23 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide Brent Okita radioed from Columbia Crest around 6:30 AM PT. The teams had a good climb with nice weather and a bit of wind. Both teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 7 AM.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Nice work Hamilton & Alex!! Cant wait to hear about it, and see some pics!
Posted by: Russ on 6/23/2019 at 10:21 am
Congratulations mark great job!
Posted by: Rob Evans on 6/23/2019 at 9:22 am
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Saturday, June 22, 2019 8:28 PM PT
We had a very productive and somewhat relaxing day. Last night brought a bit of snow, but miraculously stopped right as our alarms went off this morning.
We left camp and headed down hill to do a back-carry. This just means that we went down to pick up the gear we cached at 10K. The group did great as they have proven to do every day so far!
After we returned to camp we cooked a great breakfast and worked on recovering by napping and sport eating.
Weather permitting, our plan is to cache food and gear at 14K tomorrow. The climbing continues!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
On The Map
Happy Birthday to Zach & Ian.
Aunt Lyn & Uncle Mick
Posted by: Carolyn Mason on 6/24/2019 at 1:11 am
Happy Birthday to Ian and Zach on June 24th.
Love, Yuri and Yoko (mom and Copper too!)
Posted by: Annette Prochaska on 6/23/2019 at 6:52 pm
Posted by: Mike King, Avery Parrinello, Dominic Cifelli
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
Saturday, June 22, 2019 - 4:07 PM PT
We got an early start, up at 12:30am at 11k Camp and got to the airstrip by 8:30am. In the process we kicked, pulled, punched and cussed our heavy sleds as they barrel rolled, tipped and flipped down Ski Hill into 7800’ Camp. From there the clouds and ominous skies that had hung over us from Kahiltna Pass began to clear and we got some spectacular views of the surrounding peaks. We hit the bottom of Heartbreak Hill and 50 minutes later were at the airstrip. All sorted and ready for the De Havilland turbo Otters to arrive we kicked back for a few moments to reminisce on a great trip and felt kind of bad for the fresh meat just heading out for their first day on Denali.
Currently back in Talkeetna, a quick breakfast at the Roadhouse and now sorting gear for flights home. Looking forward to showers, burgers and beers, not necessarily in that order. We will reconvene for dinner and a session at the Fairview to bring a close to a wonderful 3 weeks on Denali. RMI-5 signing off, thanks for all the blog comments and support along the way.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Congratulations to you all. What an unforgettable experience.
Enjoy your achievement - and the beers burgers and showers.
Awesome!!
Thanks to your great guides as well.
Posted by: Stephanie on 6/23/2019 at 10:38 am
Fantastic!! Congratulations to you all. Thank you for the updates it’s been good reading them. Take care xx
Posted by: Anna Naylor on 6/23/2019 at 10:24 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Taylor Bickford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
.jpg)
Saturday, June 22, 2019 2:34 PM PT
We're taking a planned rest day today to better acclimate and get strong for our forays on the upper mountain. The day began clear and we enjoyed a leisurely brunch as the sun warmed our cook tent. Now, in the afternoon, clouds have risen and there are a few snow flakes falling. Everyone has retreated to their tents for some rest, reading, and relaxation. We will review and practice the technical skills needed to ascend the fixed ropes, which run from ~15,200' - 16,000'. We plan to head up there tomorrow to take a cache of supplies up high before returning to our comfortable 14k Camp. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Keep it up C-Bass. The photos are keeping me cool since it’s 94 here in Florida
Posted by: Andrew Klock on 6/23/2019 at 11:41 am
The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams were walking into the crater rim just before 7:00 a.m. The weather is fairly warm with a cloud deck at 6,400'. They will spend some time on top as they cross the crater rim to Columbia Crest before starting their descent.
Congrats, Alex & Hamilton! Cant wait to see more pics and hear all about it
Posted by: Russ on 6/23/2019 at 5:11 pm
alex and hamilton, i am so very proud of you, and cannot wait to hear about it; love, dad
Posted by: Steve Wrenn on 6/23/2019 at 10:10 am
Greetings again from the Caucasus! Here’s a quick recap of our last couple days on the mountain:
Yesterday we ascended to the top of Pastukhova Rocks at over 15,000’ and enjoyed a nice 3,000’ descent. The best snow conditions were up high where the colder temperatures have kept things preserved - smooth and flowy. Everyone got a sense of the reality of high altitude skiing: ski a few turns, stop to pressure breathe, ski a few turns, stop to pressure breathe... on down the mountain.
For a little extra acclimatization this morning, our group hopped on a snow cat and enjoyed a free ride up to our high point yesterday, this time arriving in about 25 minutes. With pleasant weather, we took the opportunity for some mountaineering skills training and review. We then skinned up to 16,000’, a new altitude record for a few members of our group.
It’s a been a productive couple days of acclimatization and rest here on Mt. Elbrus. If the weather looks good in the morning, we’ll see if we can sneak our way to the top.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Previous Page
Next Page
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
Mylan,
Thank you for the updates, glad to see you’re alive. Can’t wait to hear all about your trip, stay safe. Love you
Posted by: Courtney Urban on 6/24/2019 at 8:29 am
Go CK! You are an inspiration! Stay strong and be safe! Sending you good vibes! Can’t wait to hear all about it, so make sure you come back in one piece!
Posted by: Dove on 6/24/2019 at 6:33 am
View All Comments