Entries from Expedition Dispatches
We slept in this morning and then enjoyed a breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and smoked salmon. Then we headed back down glacier to retrieve the cache we left there two days ago. It was a warm day with light snow and no wind. Now that we have all of our supplies with us at 11k, we'll start to strategize our move to the upper mountain. The next move for us is to carry supplies up around
Windy Corner and establish a cache at around 13,700'. We're still not sure if that will happen tomorrow or if we will take our first full rest day. Weather will certainly play a role in that decision. We will let you know what we decide and touch base tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
May 7, 2017 - 8:40 pm PT
Success on day 2 of the Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition! We started out the day going over the bread and butter of mountaineering, including snow walking, using and traveling with crampons and practicing self arrest. We then progressed into learning about and building snow anchors. After a short rest, the calm morning gave way to snow flurries, which gradually picked up as we learned and began to build a wall or our camp--earning our dinners! Overall, it was a full day of review, learning, and work and we're all happily in bed resting ready for our first jaunt onto the glacier tomorrow.
RMI Guide Jessie Poquerusse & team
On The Map
I'm writing this dispatch from our new home at 11,200'. Everyone did great on our move today, hauling our sleds and heavy backpacks up 3,400' from the
base of Ski Hill. The weather started as mostly cloudy, then transitioned to white out conditions where you could not differentiate sky from glacier. We flew on instruments most of the day today. There was also snow and drifting snow that made the climbing even more challenging. Everybody climbed strong and came into camp in style.
Tomorrow we sleep in and rest a little bit and then head back down to 10,300' to retrieve the cache that we left there yesterday. It should be a much easier day than today.
We'll check back tomorrow to let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 6, 2017 11:18 pm PST
We had a very successful day today, carrying a load of supplies up to around 10,300' where we buried it under a couple meters of snow so that the ravens won't dig it up. Then we returned back to our camp at the Base of
Ski Hill (7800') for the night. After a good hot dinner, we've all retired to our sleeping bags for well earned rest. Tomorrow we are hoping to move camp up to 11,200'. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Some people spend the day after Cinco de Mayo in bed nursing a hangover. We spent it by packing gear, trading street shoes for climbing boots and flying onto the
Kahiltna glacier. Our team arrived prepared and by 2 pm we were stomping out camp on the hill overlooking the airstrip. The team worked quickly and here we are ready for bed at 8 pm. Great weather today and great views of the surrounding peaks.
Tomorrow we will begin our skills training and fortify camp for some potential weather moving in.
RMI Guide Leon Davis & Team
May 6, 2017 11:34am PST
We had perfect weather yesterday that made for smooth flights from Talkeetna to the
Kahiltna Glacier in two of K2 Aviation's ski planes. After a couple of hours sorting gear and digging our Base Camp cache, we donned our backpacks and started pulling sleds en route to our first camp. Beautiful weather continued the entire day and we're now at 7800' at the base of "Ski Hill". After a solid night's rest, we have the stoves back up and rolling for breakfast. Our plan today is to carry a cache supplies (mostly food and fuel) up another couple thousand feet and then return back to this same camp tonight. We'll keep you posted on our progress.
RMI Mike Walter & Team
Thursday, May 4, 2017 7:20 pm PT
Well,
RMI's 2017 Denali season has officially started. Our team all assembled in Anchorage yesterday and we traveled north to the town of Talkeetna. Talkeetna is quite sleepy this time of year, but it'll be a different story in a few weeks when we return from our expedition. The town will be abuzz with tourists and climbers looking to see the majesty of the Alaska Range.
Today was spent at the K2 Aviation Hangar, meticulously preparing and packing our equipment for the next few weeks on the mountain. Tomorrow (weather permitting) we'll be flown on to the Kahiltna glacier by single engine airplanes to start our expedition. It's important that we have our gear dialed before we get dropped off in the middle of the Alaska Range.
Every one is stoked for the journey ahead of us. We know there will be a lot of hard work ahead of us, but it will certainly be rewarding.
Thanks for checking in. We'll be sending frequent updates, so be sure to check back soon. Hopefully our next dispatch will come from the beautiful austerity of the Alaska Range.
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Robby Young & Lucas Haaland
On The Map
Greetings from the Southeast Fork of
Kahiltna Glacier. We flew in a day ahead of schedule in anticipation of the weather that kept all flights grounded in Talkeetna yesterday. With the current snowy conditions for routes in the Ruth, we decided to switch our destination. Yesterday we scouted the approach to routes like Mini Moon Flower, and Bacon and Eggs, a route that despite its funny name, is a treat to alpine climbers. Today we're doing the same for the Southwest Ridge of Mt. Frances, another objective we consider. We're hoping to climb tonight on the western flanks of Mt. Hunter and the ridge that connects it to Kahiltna Queen, dominating the end of this cup de sac glacier.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Our final morning has been perfect. Warm, sunny weather just right for a last morning of
training. Fixed rope work with ascenders, then an informative session learning about snow pits has topped off a wonderful week with a great team.
Now, for a pleasant descent to Paradise then on to the luxuries of living at sea level.
Though some have mentioned wanting to stay here another few days, I think we're all ready for a shower and some real food.
It's been fun!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
An attempt at the summit was not to be had given the avalanche conditions up high. So, instead we learned how to evaluate these conditions and deal with an avalanche rescue.
In the afternoon we worked on some ice climbing skills, lowering folks into a large crevasse so they could claw and fight their way out. Everyone did great, and nobody was left in the hole.
When we got back to
Camp Muir, the team was still excited to do more, so we worked on advanced cramponing technique and belaying. I think everyone was psyched with how the weather has finally settled out and granted us some blue sky and mild winds.
Tomorrow we address a few more skills, then head down to Basecamp in Ashford, and perhaps a beer and burger to celebrate a great week, and a fantastic crew.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
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...don’t sleep in too long DWH! love you and am so proud of you! - mom sends her love as well! Prayers for a safe summit AKS
Posted by: Ann Kathryn Hines-Scott on 5/10/2017 at 3:37 am
Beautiful sky! Hope the rest of you got out of your tents to see that glorious sight!
Posted by: Nancy Hines on 5/9/2017 at 6:29 pm
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