Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Greetings from the Suiz Andina in Malalcahuello! Today was our first day with skis on our feet and it was a beautiful one. We rode the lifts at Corralco, a ski area on the lower flanks of Volcan Lonquimay, a training ground for the U.S. Ski Team. Spring snow conditions and the sun shining through ominous clouds made for an ideal day of remembering how to ski. The vibes are super positive in our crew and we're psyched for what's to come. Stay tuned...
Update 8:25 pm PT
Setting out into uncertain weather today with Volcan Lonquimay as our optimistic feeling objective, I wasn't convinced we were going to see the top. After three thousand feet of skinning we transitioned to climbing mode, and as cool as it feels to have skis on your back, whippet in hand, crampons on your boots...those skis make great sails in a gusty north wind. We climbed the direct route on Lonquimay and despite having to battle the elements on the way up - wind, diminishing visibility, pelting snow and rime ice coating us head to toe... with a take-it-one-step-at-a-time mentality we managed to ski from the cumbre (summit). It was sort of the opposite of a carefree descent requiring precision whiteout navigation and a few other guide tricks, but before we knew it we were back in Malalcahuello sipping on the legendary pisco sours at the Suiz Andina...well earned. Thanks Lonquimay!
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Posted by: Tyler Reid
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Chile Ski
Greetings,
Just a quick note that our whole Chile Ski Team is here with all of their gear. Sergio picks us up in 10 min and we'll be headed out for our first day on skis at the base of Lonquimay. Will try to check in later with more of a dispatch...
Cheers,
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides JJ Justman and Nick Hunt were turned around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver this morning due to route conditions. The teams descended to Paradise and will be returning to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Boy, Disappointment Cleaver is sure living up to its moniker this month! Still, a great experience. Safe trek back down everyone.
Posted by: Everett Moran on 9/22/2015 at 8:48 am
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Leon Davis reached the top of Disappointment Cleaver on Mt. Rainier before route conditions forced the team to descend. Leon and the team descended back to Camp Muir to rest and pack up. At 8:45 am the team left Camp Muir to begin their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon.
I am so disappointed for you. Sorry after all the hard work and attempts that you were not able to stand on the top.
Posted by: Rick on 9/20/2015 at 12:59 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
It poured rain all night. It was still pouring this morning when we woke up. It took us awhile to work up the courage to get out of our tents and pack up but we did it. We packed our gear and booked it down the trail to find somewhere a little less wet. Now we are back in town, still soaking wet, but oh so happy to know we can finally start getting dry. Despite the soggy finish to our trip, we had a great time training on Mt. Shuksan.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
Posted by: Brent Okita, Ben Liken
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,700'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Brent Okita and the Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Ben Liken were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning due to challenging route conditions. The teams called Camp Comfort at 12,700' their high point. The teams will return to Ashford this afternoon.
Posted by: Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
It rained hard all night last night, and we are currently in a very humid cloud with intermittent showers. We decided not to climb today because of the weather. Instead, we did some training and hanging out in our cook tent. We're currently taking siestas in our tents in order to warm back up from the penetrating dampness and cold. Hopefully, if it clears up this afternoon, we'll be able to take a climb up higher on the Sulphide Glacier.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
We had a good day of technical training yesterday on the Sulphide Glacier, with mostly sunny skies. We woke this morning to rain and snow, so we are still lounging in our tents before breakfast. Hopefully it dries up soon so we can continue our training today.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Posted by: Zeb Blais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
We got back into cell service late last night after an exciting day of climbing on Mount Shuksan yesterday. New snow in the Fisher Chimneys made it prudent to wear our crampons all the way down to the talus field below the Chimneys. Our team had a great time descending this tough terrain and came away from the trip with an excellent experience. Fun climbing in this wild September weather!
Thanks for the inspiring attitudes everyone.
RMI Guide Zeb Blais
@zebblais
Posted by: Casey Grom, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir, led by Casey Grom and Elias de Andres Martos, reached the summit of Mount Rainier! The guides reported overnight snow of a couple of inches in places but mostly a dusting. The precipitation did stop for their summit bid. They also reported no winds and a cloud deck of 12,000 feet. After spending some time on the top, the teams will begin their descent back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to the team!
Congratulations guys what a team effort to get to the summit. Training right now for my summit bid either in 2016 or in 2017.
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 9/18/2015 at 7:30 am
Congratulations guys what a team effort to get to the summit. Training right now for my summit bid either in 2016 or in 2017.
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 9/18/2015 at 7:29 am
The journey and people are usually the best part. And better to be back safely than not at all.
Posted by: Keith on 9/21/2015 at 2:22 pm
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