Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Wednesday, June 19, 2024 - 1-:20 pm PT

Beat Generation writer Jack Kerouac insisted: “Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent in the office or mowing your lawn. CLIMB THAT GODDAMN MOUNTAIN.”

Today was a big day for the team - 3200’ vertical over 3 miles. We moved from 11,000' Camp to 14,000' Camp and set up what will be our home for the next 4-5 days. Retracing our steps from 11,000' up the relentlessly steep Motorcycle Hill, up Squirrel Hill, onto Polo Field, up to Windy Corner, across crevasses and past the cache we left a few days ago, we finally crested the last slope and 14K camp came into view. Hiking through these massive cathedrals of rock and snow inspires awe. Traversing through these quixotically named places that mountaineering legends have written about enhances that awe so that it almost seems unreal.

Upon reaching camp, the task of sculpting our home out of snow was upon us. After a couple of hours, our tents were secure on the snow platforms we had built, while our tireless guides (and a couple of our tireless team members) crafted the kitchen and bathroom out of the bottomless glacier.

Most of us have been feeling the physical effects of altitude at 14,000' Camp, some more than others. Today, as in all other days, we rallied remarkably well as a team, pitching in and assisting to the best of our abilities to help one another and do what is needed for the team to succeed. It is a beautiful reflection of what humanity can be when a group of strangers with different backgrounds and in different stages of their lives can come together for a common cause and help one another to achieve a singular goal. While each of us has our own personal motivations for embarking on this great adventure, no doubt Jack Kerouac’s entreaty has something to do with why we are all here.

So let’s go team: let’s climb that goddamn mountain.

RMI climber Chris Brockmeyer

Wednesday, June 19, 2024 - 12:20 AM PT

Привет от 11ти лагер. Нашия екип се наслаждава на почивния ден с кравай с крема сирене исьомга за закуска. След това Доминик, нашия лидер на експедиция, поднесе информационен урок на системи за евакуиране от ледникови пропасти. До момента нашите дневници са главно фокусирани на движението ни из планината през деня, затова ще направим нещо различно, ще ви запозная с нашия екип, за да се принесете внашето ежедневие.

На моето въже екипа се състой от Доминик- лидер, Крис Брокмауер или на кратко Брок, Аз - Роси, и Крис Раитс или Скитълс. Доминик е от Ню Джързи, и живее във Вашингтон с жена си Емили, и двата им лабрадора. Дом и Емили, обичат да прекарват свободното си време в природата и тичат по пътеки. Брок е от Калифорния, но живее в Ню Йорк със семейството си. Той е присъствал на десетки Тони награди и гали по работа, но предпочита да катери и ходи на походи в Адерондекските планини. Крис Райтс  е от Саинт Луис, където е бил главен прокурор за над 20 години. Тези дни се наслаждава на живота в Брекенридж, където е ски учител и притежава  билярдна маса  на най- високото място в Колорадо. Той е проверил с неговите съседи за това твърдение.

 На другата въжена линия поведени от планинския лидер Никол, са Кери, Матиас, и Давид. Никол е от Сан Франциско, и прекарва повечето лета като гид за РМИ, през останалото време обича да катери и съчетава нейната бакалаварска степен  по архитектурно инженерство.  Кери е гръбначен хирург от Нова Каролина, който се натъква на  неговата професия след кратък период в строителството. След като се усетил, че  “има мозък” (по негови думи), той се насочва към философия и после хирургия, защото се използват отверки и пирони като встроителството. Матиас е мой съимигрант от Швеция. Той  живее в Бостън със семейството си, но неговата страст е в катеренето на високите точки на Европа и Азия. Давид, съснай- големия фен клуб от нашия екип, е от Кентъки, но в момента е директор на ски училище в Охайо. Където имат нужда от само три дни и температури под нулата натрупат машинен сняг на 100 акра терен, за да отворят ски пистите за клиенти. Много е горд от новите системни продобивки като РФИД, нон стоп воден източник  и т.н. Не на последно място е въжения екип воден от Сет. Катерачите са София, Нате и Томас. Сет е от Тенеси, но живее във Вашингтон с жена си. Най- интересния факт за него според мен е, който научих за него до момента е, че Сет е прекарал неговия меден живеят в Ню Уорк, тяхната страст е многодневни походи, и достигането на най високите точки на всеки щат. София като докторант на Философия ни обясни възможно ли е да пътуваме през времето, и различните версии на Аз, през междузвездните системи. Нещото което е очевидно от пръв поглед за Тате е абсолютната обич към София. Те ни подсигуриха със нови сладки и солени храни за останалите дни на експедицията. Благодарим ви за Вашата щедрост. Оставих един от най- оживените характери на екипа за последно. Томас, който е от Ванкувър, Канада, и е фокусиран на по техничен терен в неговата страст към планински терени, именно ледниково катерене, много стръмен терен из Аляска за сега. Денали е просто тест за сега. Той учи да бъде кинезеотерапевт и е инструментален в тези почивни дни като ни показва упражнения за специфични мускули, който ни помагат да сме във форма. Отделно той е главния ресурс на шеги и забавни истории.  Това е нашия шарен лагер обединен от една обща цел - върха на Денали! ефърт  20 мили и 5000 фута височина до базови лагер и обратно,  да се върнат при нас и да продължим да катерим към 14ти лагер.

RMI Climber Rossi Simeonova

The cold shadows were still on us when we pulled out of camp at 8:30 this morning. But we were carrying loads up the steep "motorcycle hill" which warmed us. It was a thrill to top motorcycle and get onto "squirrel hill" and to be able to look out at the tundra to the NW. We were excited to get views of the Peters Glacier and up close views of the West Buttress of Denali. There was a cool breeze as we reached the "Polo Field" and so we briefly wondered whether we'd reach our goal. But the temps warmed and the wind dropped and we got around Windy Corner as hoped. It was stunning to come face to face with the South Peak of Denali. We dug a deep cache and buried the supplies and finally just sat enjoying the views for a few minutes. It was a pleasant and "easy" climb back down to camp. We'd managed the round trip in a respectable 6.5 hrs. That left enough of the afternoon for resting in warm tents. We'll hope to move up tomorrow.

Best Regards, 

RMI Guides Dave, Sam, Sam & Nick

Tuesday, June 18, 2024 - 8:47 pm PT

Hello readers!

Today we waited for our two guides to rejoin the team. A light wind kept the air chilly even with the intensity of the sun. Although the air temperature may read negative five, with the sun it feels a lot more comfortable and the tents can get well into the 70s. Freeze or fry they say on the mountain. We are well rested and our bodies adjusting to the altitude. We are ready for tomorrow. Tomorrow is the big day that we have all been waiting and training for. Tomorrow we try to summit Denali. The weather forecast looks promising. Maybe a bit windy at times but we are hoping it holds fair and allows Us to stand on top. Everyone is excited and anxious for the day to be here. Please send all the best of vibes our way. We will take them all! Hopefully the next dispatch is us saying we stood tall on the tallest peak in North America.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

The Five Day Climb June 15 - 19 ascend to Camp Muir on Day 3 after a day and a half training and preparing. They spent Day 4 of their program practicing cramponing up Muir peak and fixed line travel, and went over knots and hitches. RMI Guide Casey Grom and two other guides went up high doing some route work and shoveling the new snow from Disappointment Cleaver. Today the team went to Ingraham Flats and watched the sunrise over Muir peak and western Washington. Unfortunately unstable snow conditions from Monday's storm prevented from safely climbing any higher.  The team will descend to Paradise later this morning and conclude their program later this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.

PC: Tatum Whatford

The Expedition Skill Seminar - Kautz June 14 - 19 led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Jackson Breen, Mike Bennett and Calivin Jiricko, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday via the Kautz Glacier. After several days of training and climbing, this team put it all together and ascended the Kautz ice chute, to Point Success and to the summit of Mt. Rainier. It was a long day and the team returned to camp in the early evening.  This morning they have started their descent to Paradise, leaving early to enjoy the nice snow conditions on the Wilson Glacier while the temperatures as still low. The team will return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon to celebrate their adventure and conclude their program.

Nice work team!

Tuesday, June 18, 2024 - 9:20 am PT

Good evening readers,

Today was a beautiful day for a summit bid, but sometimes beautiful weather isn't enough. Due to some logistics of one climber needing to descend to lower elevation, the team took a rest day at 17,000' Camp. All climbers are doing well and their bodies are adjusting to the altitude. Tomorrow, the two guides who went down with the climber will rejoin the team to try for the summit on Wednesday. The weather seems to be holding. Fingers crossed the winds stay at bay and we can pull this off. Keep sending all the calm winds, good weather, healthy bodies vibes our way!

Goodnight all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Tuesday, June 18, 2024 - 9:24 am PT

Day 7 on the mountain and our first official rest day of the trip. A late wake up, a leisurely breakfast, jovial conversations, and a time to rest, recuperate, contemplate, and prepare for what’s next. It was a beautiful day on the mountain, the sun was out with a light breeze to keep us cool, and views of the Alaska range stretching out before us to drink in. We’ve hit that beautiful moment in any grand outdoor adventure. When a group of random people, be it an expedition team or just a group of folks traveling down the trail at the same speed, spend enough time together that individual goals truly become a shared group goal. Not just because we have group food and gear to carry, but because we have become invested in everyone’s success, not just our own. It materializes in many ways, from sharing tips and tricks on the best way to stretch that aching IT band or hip flexor, to creating a team wide charcuterie board from all our snacks, to sharing the extra face wipes you may have that others didn’t bring. That type of camaraderie is so crucial for the team. Bringing much needed levity and support through all the challenges already experienced and the many more still to come. Today’s date holds a special place for me, 7 years ago, I was lucky enough to exchange vows with my wife Sophia (here on the mountain too) promising to always be there for that next adventure, partners in all the crazy things either of us want to do. Today is also a bittersweet day, as Sophia and I will head back down to base camp to head off the mountain, Denali has proven to be every bit as hard and grueling a challenge as has been advertised and cautioned. But we leave happy for the time we have been able to spend on the mountain and the incredible experiences we have been able to have with such an amazing climbing team. We will be watching closely and cheering on everyone else as they continue on this amazing adventure, while we head home and contemplate the next step in our adventure. 

Happy anniversary Sophia, I love you dearly.

Oh little darling, don’t you look charming Here in the eye of a hurricane 

Real or imagined, what does it matter Look come inside, can I get you to stay

- Hurricane (Johnnie’s Theme) by Lord Huron

RMI Climber Tait Pollard

Monday, June 17, 2024 - 10:25 pm PT

We are starting to feel quite lucky after another calm, beautiful day. We got up at a leisurely 6:30 AM and had a breakfast of bagels and bacon. By 9 AM we were walking downhill to 10,000 ft to pick up our cached supplies.  Down took 20 min, up then took about 90 min, including a nice rest break. It was just starting to get good and hot when we got back and dove into our tents for shelter from the sun. We didn't come out again until 5:30 PM when we suited up for a short review of the climbing techniques we plan to employ tomorrow. The goal would be to carry a load up and around "Windy Corner" using crampons and ice axes (rather than the snowshoes and ski poles we've been using). The team is excited to see some new terrain.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Five Day Climb reached Camp Muir after what we deemed “the spiciest snowfield ascent ever”. We worked together in high winds and low visibility to stay warm and keep climbing. After a night of higher winds, colder temperatures and more snow, we opted to do some training at Camp Muir. We started the morning with some avalanche basics culminating in digging pits to assess snow instability.  The results weren’t promising so as a team we made the safe, but hard, choice not to ascend any higher. The sun came out and we spent the day learning snow anchors, crevasse rescue and taking in the beautiful views from Camp Muir.

We’ll begin our descent to Paradise this morning and conclude our program this afternoon. All in all, this team unified in tough conditions to have an incredible climbing experience. 

RMI Guides Andy Bond and Jess Wedel

PC: Jess Wedel