Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Leon Davis, Steve Gately, Caleb Ladue
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 8,500'
Day one on a Mt. Shuksan Fisher Chimneys trip is a big day, maybe the biggest day of the climb. Most guided parties take eight hours to reach high camp perched at the edge of the Price Glacier above the Chimneys. So when the team drove to the trail head in a heavy wet cloud we needed to make a decision about hiking in those conditions. We stood in the parking lot in our gore-tex, gathering large beads of water that collected from simply standing in the cloud. We drove back down the mountain hoping the forecast for better afternoon weather would prove true. It did not and we decided to try again in the morning.
The following day, as clouds started to pass over the area, we began the approach in a drier cloud and took every bit of the eight hours to climb the Chimneys to high camp. The plan was to set up camp, rest for a few hours and continue towards the summit unburdened by heavy packs. At 4:30 p.m. we began the journey upward, traversing the Price, climbing the steep Hell's Highway and cresting onto the upper Sulphide Glacier. A cloud followed us up the Sulphide, hiding the summit pyramid but we were able to climb on instruments towards its base. At 7:00 p.m. the clouds parted long enough to show us the pyramid and in what condition it lay. A steep snow traverse gained the lower rock band where it usually is a low angle scramble and we spotted a few teams descending in the early evening light. So far, we had been moving for 12 hours and now we were looking at summiting around dark and descending complicated terrain under headlamp. We made the conservative call to turn around and made our high point the base of the pyramid, just 600 vertical feet shy of the very top. Disappointing sure, but the team put in an extraordinary effort to climb all day and we were satisfied with the decision to leave the summit for another day.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
Posted by: Casey Grom, Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Elevation: 12,000'
Pree-vēt!
Things are good here at Garabashi Hut and the team is excited for tonight! We did a little prep for tomorrow by reviewing a few climb techniques and then rested the remainder of the day. Our cook, Dasha, has done a great job of filling our bellies with plenty of good ol' home cooked Russian food.
Everything is set and if the weather continues to hold we'll be up at 2:00 a.m. After a quick breakfast, we'll hop on the snowcat to give us a bump a little further up the mountain. It will shorten our climb a little and increase our chance of reaching the highest point in Europe.
That's all for now. Keep your fingers crossed for us!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
We slept in an extra hour this morning for two reasons. Firstly, it gave us some extra rest in preparation for our summit attempt. Secondly, it allowed the rest of the teams at camp to break trail up the great Barranco Wall this morning so we could avoid "rush hour" on the wall.The 800 feet of solid handholds made the ledge scrambling a blast. With the assistance of our local staff, everyone made for a safe ascent of the Barranco Wall. Once atop the wall, we made a long traverse under the dramatic views of the the hanging glaciers and rock buttresses that make up the top of Kilimanjaro on our way to Karanga Camp at 13,160 feet. We are knocking on the door of the summit and the weather continues to be perfect! Yeah!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Megan Budge, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Mike said that it is a "BEAUTIFUL day" on the summit of Mt. Rainier. Mike also reported that 100% of the team reached the summit. The team began their descent before 8:00 a.m. PDT. We are excited to see them in Ashford this afternoon and hear stories of their adventure!
Congratulations climbers!!
Posted by: Solveig Waterfall, Jess Matthews, Hannah Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall and the All Women's Four Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Solveig reported clear skies and a light breeze on the summit. The team started their descent shortly after 7:00 a.m. PDT. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon.
Way to climb ladies!
You go girls! You are an awesome bunch. Looking forward to the photos
Posted by: Jessie's dad on 7/29/2016 at 12:39 pm
You go girls! I hope there are pictures!!
Posted by: Sara S. on 7/29/2016 at 10:23 am
Hello again everyone.
The weather continues to be beautiful here on Mt. Elbrus for us. We started the day with a nice breakfast and then set out on our last acclimatizing hike just before 9:00. The team did a great job as we made our way up to a little over 15,300', setting a new record for some and it took us only about three hours. We stopped along the way to take a few breaks and enjoy the view as well as chat with the other climbers that are from all over the world.
After reaching our high point we made our way back to camp just in time for another enjoyable lunch.
Since then it's been nap time for some or just relaxing in our little huts as there was a small snow squall that blew through this afternoon.
Everyone is doing well and in good spirits.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
After a restless night of sleep at our high camp, 17,900ft, we got up late had breakfast and coffee and began our day of chilling. Everyone is adjusting well to the new altitude, some minor headaches this morning but once we were up and moving around a little the symptoms abated. After soup for lunch some folks caught a quick nap before we started packing and prepping for our summit bid tonight. We are all excited for our chance to start climbing this beautiful face we have been looking at all day. That's all for now. We'll check in again after we get back from our climb tomorrow.
Thanks for following along,
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Best wishes to Geoff and the team. hey Geoff, I’m working down the hall from your Dad in South Portland, ME. He’s been kind enough to keep us posted on your progress. I just want you to know that you have my dream job!! Enjoy as I sit in my fluorescent lit cube, pounding away on this keyboard. LOL! Be safe!!
Posted by: CJ Knight on 7/29/2016 at 10:40 am
yeah Geoff and team!!! Cheering for you today!
Posted by: ElÃas on 7/29/2016 at 8:59 am
Up early for a crisp and clear day at Shira Camp. Perfect climbing conditions all day long. Kibo, Kilimanjaro's main peak towering over us during the 2,500-foot climb to well over 14,000 feet . A nice gentle grade up to our high point for the trip, then down, down, down, down the Barranco Valley where we are for the night. Glaciers, tall cliffs, giant ice runnels are the view from camp. Pictures at sunset are going to be awesome.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Thinking of you guys!! Love you.
Posted by: Cassie evering on 7/28/2016 at 9:09 am
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Ben Liken reached to summit of Mt. Rainier at 5:20 am this morning. Tyler reported clear skies, calm winds and warm temperatures on the top. The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
Congratulations to everyone, especially Mario P. I can’t wait to hear about the trek and see some beautiful photos. What a great accomplishment.
Posted by: D Zabel on 7/28/2016 at 1:11 pm
Well done ... Can’t wait to hear about the trip.
Posted by: Jeff and Karen on 7/28/2016 at 9:42 am
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Today was a big day, we loaded our packs and dawned our climbing equipment and walked away from Moraine camp. Once on the glacier we slowly worked our way around crevasses as we worked upward to the col. About 800 feet shy of the col we encountered to first of the three steeper pitches which the team dispatched with no problems. Everyone climbed very well and just before 3 pm we were all at our high camp. This is also where we caught our first glimpse of the face we will climb. We settled into our tents for a quick nap before tea time and then dinner. As Alpamayo caught the alpenglow of the last light of the day we retired to our sleeping bags, tired but very happy.
Tomorrow we rest before we make our summit attempt the following day.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens & Team
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You are our hero Alyssa. HAPPY BIRTHDAY!
Posted by: Susan on 7/29/2016 at 2:35 pm
So proud of my brother for doing this. Way to go Chris Hunsaker. Be safe on the way down.
Posted by: Denise on 7/29/2016 at 12:34 pm
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