Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Elevation: 14,200'

June 15, 2016 - 12:02 A.M. PDT Weather forecasts in the mountains can change wildly. Last night we heard a report of 70 mph winds on the summit and heavy snow forecast for today. We ended up with perhaps the clearest and calmest day we've had on the whole trip. The winds did pick up this evening as spindrift whipped off the upper mountain but we were quite comfortable in our camp at 14,200'. We rested today, organized gear, drank coffee, and relaxed in the sunshine. The forecast is showing a good weather window for the next three days so our plan is to move up to the Balcony Camp, around 17,000' tomorrow and then make a summit bid on Thursday. Everyone is doing great and very excited about the prospect of moving higher on this beautiful peak. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Steve Gately and team

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Good luck tomorrow guys! Hoping you get clear skies and no wind. Andrea mou, love you!

Posted by: GSD on 6/15/2016 at 8:09 pm

Jim, Trying a message again. Mom and I are sure enjoying the beautiful sights you and your team are sharing. Stoked that you are doing so well and soon to try a summit. We pray you have a safe climb, enjoy a fabulous view when you reach summit, and all come home safely. Godspeed! to you, Ben and the whole team.

Posted by: Dad DuBay on 6/15/2016 at 7:42 pm

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climbs Call Disappointment Cleaver Their High Point

June 15, 2016

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike King

Elevation: 12,300'

The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Mike King turned at the top of Disappointment Cleaver this morning. The team made the prudent decision to call Disappointment Cleaver their high point after assessing the snow pack determined the avalanche danger to be high. The team will descend back to Camp Muir before continuing their descent to Paradise later today.

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Waiting At 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, Katrina Bloemsma, JM Gorum

Elevation: 14,000'

June 14, 2016 - 8:12 pm PT With high winds still a concern we spent another day at 14 Camp on the rest and relaxation program. It was another beautiful day and the team is fully set to jet. If the favorable forecast verifies for tomorrow we will begin our shot for the top by way of the 17,000 camp. Wish us clear skies and calm winds! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Best of luck Peter, Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Posted by: John Jnr & Marie on 6/15/2016 at 3:01 pm

The view of Denali today was just beautiful, especially since you all are on her. Praying for calm winds and safe ascent to 17K camp.

Posted by: Isty on 6/14/2016 at 9:50 pm

Mt. Rainier: Winter Conditions Turn Team on Summit Attempt

June 14, 2016

Posted by: Casey Grom

Elevation: 10,600'

Due to high winds and snow the Mt.Rainier Summit Climb was unable to summit this morning. The team, led by RMI Guide Casey Grom, traveled to the Gap (10,600') on the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Their planned departure from Camp Muir is 10:00 a.m.

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team 14K Camp Day of Rest

June 14, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Elevation: 14,200'

June 14, 2016 - 2:13 am PT What a gorgeous day to be resting on Denali! We didn't get out of the tent until the sun warmed our little cocoons. Pancakes fueled us for a walk to the infamous Edge of the World where we enjoyed unobstructed views of this magnificent mountain and the range that hosts us. Warm and windless was our vantage point and looking from the South Buttress to our first camp around to our current home in Genet Basin contributed to our ever evolving sense of scale. The team answered (or tried to) Denali trivia for a turn to look over the Edge down to the Northeast Fork and make a memory. Back to camp for the afternoon for more rest and an eventual sunset with a just over half full moon taking the trip from Denali over Hunter on its way to Foraker, breaking trail for tomorrow's ascent by the Sun. Wind up high may keep us here for an extra day or two, but somehow I think we'll be just fine. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Jason,
Absolutely breathtaking! We check on your progress everyday & read the update aloud as a family. We are living vicariously through you. Happy adventures!
~Knutsons

Posted by: Knutsons on 6/14/2016 at 9:09 pm

So exciting to watch your progress!!! We are looking at Denali from Anchorage today. I see a few thumbs up and smiles. Go Jason and team!!!

Posted by: The Hoppes on 6/14/2016 at 3:13 pm

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Enjoys the View

June 13, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Elevation: 14,000'

June 13, 2016 - 7:09 pm PT After a big day caching at 16,400' on the rib we slept in this morning. Eventually folks started to rise and trickle into the kitchen where Steve was make breakfast burritos and fresh coffee, we relaxed, ate and drank our fill until around noon. Then we got geared up for a short walk over to the Edge of the World. Today was a perfect day for it with mostly clear skies and no wind. We spent an hour taking pictures and enjoying the view of the Alaska Range before heading back to camp. We did a little bit of fixed line and running belay training and then chilled for the afternoon. Tonight we will be exploring some exotic cuisine from India and sipping tea before bed. It is looking like the next couple of days will bring snow and high winds to the upper mountain so we will most likely have a couple more rest days at 14 before it breaks later in the week. The weather days are actually a blessing in disguise, it allows us to be fully rested and better acclimatize. Everyone is in good spirits and enjoying some down time. Thanks for following along with us, The Upper West Rib team

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Jim and Team, Ry and I are following you everyday. The pictures are absolutely amazing. We’re excited to watch this story unfold. Can’t wait to see you and hear the stories.

Mac & Ry

Posted by: Mac Hawley on 6/15/2016 at 9:14 am

Ben,

As I sit here suffering through shin splints from a 5 mile run, I can’t help but marvel at the undertaking you have taken on. May the force of a thousand Spartan’s guide your way safely and swiftly. This goes for Jim too (and the rest of the team of course). Keep at it bruh. We are all super proud and super stoked. We are beers ready, glittered up.

Posted by: Spiros Botos on 6/14/2016 at 7:19 pm

Mt. Rainier: Five Day Summit Climb Celebrates on the Summit

June 13, 2016

Posted by: Leon Davis

Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on a cold and windy morning. In addition to the weather, Leon reported great route conditions. The team will descend back to Camp Muir for their last night on the mountain. Today's climb also marked Leon Davis' 100th summit of Mt. Rainier. Way to climb, Leon! Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit 100% on Summit

June 13, 2016

Posted by: JJ Justman

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. JJ reported cold, windy conditions on the summit. Despite the weather, 100% of the team reached the summit! The team will descend back to Camp Muir before continuing their descent to Paradise and on back to Ashford later today. Congratulations climbers!

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Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Fly to Talkeetna

June 13, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

The Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Chase Nelson were able to fly off the Pika Glacier yesterday evening during a break in the weather. Despite the weather, the team had several great days of climbing including successful climbs of Lost Marsupial and the Middle Troll. Congratulations climbers!

Just got back out of the Alaska Range after a stellar trip to the Pika Glacier! One of the best alpine rock climbing venues I've ever had the pleasure of visiting. Here Greg and Will follow the splitter hand crack that leads right to the top, with the airstrip and camp visible 1,300 feet below. @rmiexpeditions @elias.the.spaniard #alpineclimbing #climbing #alaska #ak #climbmemories #rmiexpeditions

A photo posted by Chase Nelson (@chase__nelson) on Jun 12, 2016 at 8:33pm PDT

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Denali Expedition: Jones and Team Return to Talkeetna

June 13, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

The May 24th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, and Blake Votilla flew off the Kahiltna Glacier yesterday and return to Talkeetna. According to Tyler, the team was planning to celebrate their climb at Talkeetna's Roadhouse. After 18 days of living in tents the team is happy to be back in the land of burgers, beer, showers, and mattresses. Congratulations climbers!

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Welcome back, Bob. I hope you getting busy planning your next beautiful adventure on this wild planet. Cheers to you and the team!

Posted by: Emily Jenson on 6/14/2016 at 1:58 pm

Congratulations to all of you.. Very Cool and I am sure extremely GRATIFYING !!!

Posted by: Mary Anne Kyburz-Ladue on 6/13/2016 at 9:02 am