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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Descends to 7,800’

June 18, 2016 - 12:40 am PT Hi all, sorry there hasn't been a dispatch since we summited, we've been busy and on the move a lot. The team did a fantastic job climbing the Upper Rib yesterday and we all made the summit just after 7:00 PM. After some hugs, photos, and congratulations we began our descent down to 17 Camp on the West Buttress. Thirteen hours after we started climbing we were crawling into our tents, exhausted but very satisfied with our accomplishment. This morning we woke up early to get low on the mountain before the 50 mph forecasted winds rolled in this afternoon. I am truly amazed at how strong this team is, even after a big summit day everyone climbed very well as we made our way down the Buttress and fixed lines to 14 Camp. Here we took about an hour to retrieve our cache and re pack before we hit the trail to 11 Camp. I thought for sure folks would be tired at 11 camp, but no. We dug up our cache here rigged for traveling with sleds and kept descending. We are currently at the base of Ski Hilll, 7800', getting a little rest and waiting for the cold of the night before we walk the lower Kahiltna Glacier back to the landing strip. Weather permitting we will be on board an airplane first thing in the morning. Thanks so much for following along throughout our expedition RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Upper West Rib Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

WOW! I just finished reading all the posts and looking at the beautiful pics & I am in awe of all you (collectively) have accomplished! I guess to say u feel “on top of the world” would likely be an understatement! Safe journey to all on ur decent! Can’t wait to hear the stories!

Posted by: Sara & James on 6/18/2016 at 7:08 am


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Descend to 7,800’

June 17, 2016 - 11:36 pm PT What a big few days it's been! Forgive the radio silence, but our team has been busy getting some real climbing done. Since our glorious finale to our ascent, we descended back to 17 Camp and had a well deserved rest. We awoke early this morning with a motivating forecast to move and packed up our alpine home and began our descent. As we scooped up caches at 16,600, 14,200 and 11,000 our decision to beat feet downhill seemed well made. Winds and snow took over the upper camps and we made it to 7,800 camp where the air is thick and the temps are pleasant (by our new standards). We carved out a quick camp and are planning on an early morning to try and catch a flight tomorrow. Wish us one more day of decent weather and we'll be back to tell all the details of one hell of an adventure! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Holy buckets!  “Wings on your feet” and all that!  I’m so glad the weather is holding and that your descent is going well.  You all deserve a much needed rest so get K2 on the line in preparation of the first leg back home!  I can’t WAIT to hear all about this wonderful adventure!  Thank you again to God and to you three very accomplished and knowledgeable guides!  You’re the BEST!!!  Bird

Posted by: Bird on 6/18/2016 at 6:53 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Begin Their Climb

June 17, 2016 - 8:48 pm PT We are climbing! We had a rather early departure from Basecamp this morning, leaving at 3 a.m. while the glacier was still nice and firm. The crew made quick work of the task at hand arriving into our new camp at the base of Ski Hill on the Kahiltna Glacier in 4 hours and 20 minutes. Rock Stars! We spent most of the day "sport eating" in preparation for the high calorie demand that this mountain will require. We had some clouds move in mid day, but the weather turned out to be great. We plan on another early morning rally up to 9,800 camp. We tried to count how many shells smothered in Velveeta we ate tonight to prep for tomorrow. Unfortunately we're not as top notch as Joe Horiskey. Love to the fans! And the Fams! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love seeing those pics! Hope the weather continues to be favorable. I love the shell counting game :-) One step at a time!

Posted by: Kelly Tybor on 6/19/2016 at 6:32 am

Keep up the great work!!!
“...can’t believe how far I’ve climbed.”  Bruce, The Rising

Looking forward to hearing all the details and seeing the pics (over a cold one, that is)
My best,
Tony

Posted by: Tony Capaci on 6/19/2016 at 5:31 am


Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita & Teams Summit!

The summit climb teams, led by Brent Okita and JJ Justman, tagged the top of Mt. Rainier at 7:35am this morning. They reported winds about 25 mph, a bit chilly, and a cloud cap forming. Both teams began their descent at 8:20 a.m. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Mark, Soleil, & Cabrina!!  I’m so excited for you and can’t wait to hear all about it.
Love,
Janine

Posted by: Janine on 6/17/2016 at 9:20 am

Jeremy,

I don’t know you but everyone seems pretty pumped for you. Nice work, bud!

Posted by: Hayden on 6/17/2016 at 8:59 am


Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Reaches the Summit!

June 16, 2016 - 8:27 pm PT Hey this is Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately and the Upper West Rib Team we are standing on the summit of Denali, right now! We just had an excellent climb of the Upper West Rib. It's about 7 pm and we are going to tag the top and turn around and head home. Beautiful day here, just a few puffy clouds way off in the distance but other than that, clear as can be. Thanks for following along. We will check in again when we are back at camp. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens


RMI Guide Geoff Schellens calls from the summit of Denali with the Upper West Rib Team.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Captain Jim, Ry, Julia and I had dinner last night.  We’re all so proud and happy about your big big accomplishment.  Can’t wait to hear your story and see some more pictures.

Posted by: Mac Hawley on 6/17/2016 at 4:59 pm

CONGRATS! So awesome!

Can’t wait to see the pics.

Chris

Posted by: Underwood on 6/17/2016 at 4:07 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Call from the Summit!

June 16, 2016 - 6:07 PM PT Hello from the top of Denali. We were lucky today and the mountain let us to the tip top. We are all doing fantastically well, the weather is just about perfect and we will soon start our descent. But we just wanted to check in, we will enjoy the views for a little bit longer, but the team has done great, everyone worked super hard. I'm quite proud of all of them. We will give you a shout from the lowlands. Take care all. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls in from the summit of Denali, Alaska.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the whole team!  Fantastic news Jason, I’m looking forward to hearing all about your experience.  Safe descent and “slán abhaile” (Irish for safe home).  Fr Joseph

Posted by: Fr Joseph on 6/17/2016 at 11:16 pm

WoooooHooooooo!!!!!
Way to go all!!
Safe downclimb and tasty beer!

Posted by: Jones-Hartmans on 6/17/2016 at 8:15 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team at Kahiltna Base

June 16, 2016 - 4:16 P.M. PDT And we're off! RMI Denali Expedition #7 (known in some circles as "el Siete") landed on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier this morning around 10 o'clock to clear skies and breathtaking views of the Alaska Range. The team took advantage of the clear weather by leisurely setting up camp, and then brushing up on anchor building, crevasse rescue, and sled rigging skills. Our next move is to make some dinner and head to bed early in anticipation of our move to Ski Hill camp while the snow is at its most frozen state- is 3 A.M. early morning or late at night? We'll let you know... For now, excitement is high, stress is low, views are stunning. Love to all friends, family, and Joe Horiskey, RMI Guide Mike Haugen & gang
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an experience! The pictures are breathtaking, but probably don’t even compare to the real view! Cheers to all of you on your amazing journey!

Have fun Phil and everyone on the climb.

Use your core ;)

Posted by: Laura Andrews on 6/25/2016 at 4:06 am

Jon, A&D is will be monitoring your progress and living vicariously through your amazing adventure!! 

Posted by: Lisa on 6/17/2016 at 6:10 pm


Mt. Rainier: Teams Summit!

RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Ben Liken led their teams to the Mt. Rainier summit! After some light now and 5 mph winds for the ascent, the weather has improved to blue skies and no wind as they topped out. At 9:30 a.m. the teams began their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's summit teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Calls 12,400’ Their High Point

The Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Robby Young is wrapping up their week on the mountain today. The team will descend from Camp Schurman to the White River Campground before driving back to Ashford this afternoon. On the summit attempt yesterday, the team was able to experience first hand snow pack analysis and decision making. As a result of the snow pack analysis the team made the prudent decision to call 12,400' their high point and descend back to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. We look forward to greeting the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team back in Ashford today and are excited to hear the stories from their week on the Emmons.
Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team at 17K Camp Ready for Summit Bid

June 16, 2016 - 1:21 A.M. PDT The wind finally came this morning and the upper mountain looked rugged from our home at 14K. Our team was ready to rock early in the morning, but Denali had other plans. Plumes of snow streamed from the Buttress and the move was to brew another cup of coffee and out chill the weather. Eventually it tapered and we were able to launch upward towards our high camp. The weather turned beautiful, almost too hot, but pleasant to build camp in once we arrived. It was a big day, but we made it and are in position to give it a shot tomorrow. Wish us luck, we're gonna need it! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jake, sending you power vibes to lead your team to a successful summit and descent.  I hope there’s fairy dust on the summit ridge again this year ;)

Posted by: Meredith on 6/16/2016 at 5:01 pm

Good luck to Brad Lawler and team.  Hoping you have a great summit experience!

Posted by: Matthew DeVoll on 6/16/2016 at 3:29 pm

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