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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Ecuador Seminar: Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

After a relaxing evening last night at the Hacienda Casa Sol, we are currently enjoying the world famous market in Otavalo. Otavalo is an indigenous kichwa town in the Andes highlands north of Quito. The Otavalos are known for their woolen woven goods, art, jewelry, and music. The market here is a sight to behold, with both native Otavalos and tourists shopping side by side. We're enjoying the morning roaming the streets and exploring the market. After lunch we'll drive up to the climbing hut on the volcano Cayambe. The hut sits above 15,000' at the toe of the crevassed glaciers of Cayambe. It will be our home for the next two nights as we train and prepare for our ascent of Cayambe. Cayambe is the third highest peak in Ecuador at nearly 19,000', and the highest point on earth through which the equator passes. The mountain is situated in the eastern ridge of the Andes and, as such, is influenced by weather rising up from the rainforest of Ecuador and the headwaters of the Amazon. Over millenia the snowfall on Cayambe has formed a massive network of glaciers that we hope to climb. We'll have our work cut out for us over the next few days on Cayambe. But for now we're enjoying the colorful culture of Ecuador. RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Mt. McKinley:  Nugent & Team Carry Heavy Loads in Good Stride

Saturday June 20th 8:45 a.m. PT First day moving on Mount McKinley was a tremendous success. As a guide, I was impressed with our crew's ability to move smoothly and efficiently despite the very heavy loads and the cumbersome nature of the sled rigging and climbing rope. Usually it's a couple of days before a team will hit its stride like we did today. We enjoyed clear skies and perfect temperatures. For a moment we had considered moving onto the night schedule but a cool down glacier breeze and excellent snow coverage made for safe and comfortable travel during the day. We are all in great spirits, bonding as a team and enjoying our relatively new environs. More from our expedition as it develops. RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Bonne Chance Marc et bonne aventure! On espère que ton voyage se passera bien et on attend ton retour sain et sauf.

Posted by: Yvan Champagne on 6/23/2015 at 1:26 pm

specktacularview of the mountain !

Posted by: mark and helen on 6/21/2015 at 4:56 am


Mt. Rainier: June 20th Update

7:45 a.m. - The Four Day Summit Climb, led by Leon Davis and Mike Soucy, crested the summit rim of Mt. Rainier. Leon reported a nice day with light winds. Both teams began their descent just after 9:00 a.m.
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Congratulations John and Brett! 
You earned that Summit muffin!
Look forward to hearing more about your adventure

Kurt N and Mary C

Posted by: Kurt N & Mary C on 6/24/2015 at 4:14 am

Great job girl from hawaii!

Posted by: Todd on 6/23/2015 at 11:15 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

Friday June 19th 11:15 pm PT After a much needed full night of sleep, we woke up to sunny, perfect weather. The Uchal-Dee power duo made us some delicious pancakes for breakfast. We did some training for our next adventure on the fixed lines that we will find on the steep slopes that lead us up to our next camp. The rest of the day was spent enjoying the great weather. We are going to bed with a light snow showering down on our tent. Our plan is to try to carry some gear up towards 17k camp...if it clears that is. RMI Guide Mike Haugen
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Mike,

Please tell my dad “Happy Father’s Day” from his family. We love him and are thoughts and prayers are with him.

We can’t wait to hear the stories…

Thanks for your posts.

Josh

Posted by: Josh on 6/20/2015 at 11:52 pm

  Beautiful pictures! I am glad the blueberry pancakes materialized for the hungry gents. Hope the weather holds for you guys. We are at our cabin on the lake riding our ATV’s and fishing in the lake for Father’s Day weekend. Our adventures are much more mild. Enjoy your Father’s Day adventure tomorrow, Doug, and we will enjoy ours.

Posted by: Chris on 6/20/2015 at 4:47 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Summit!

Friday June 19th 11:11 pm PT On Thursday, June 18th, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his June 2nd Mount McKinley Expedition reached the summit!!! After our spectacular day on the roof of this continent, we have to come down. Waking to calm winds and warm(ish) temperatures, we packed up our high camp and bid our snow walls and tent platforms adios. Leaving 17K Camp we cruised the Buttress and made it down to 14K Camp where we dug up a cache and wished the ascending RMI team bon voyage before heading to 11K camp to grab a few winks while the glacier sets up for our walk out to the runway. Amazing how just last week we were camped here with a huge mountain ahead of us filled with so many unknowns. Now we are on the other side of the mountain, grateful for the exploration of an amazing place on planet earth. RMI Guide Jake Beren
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So awesome that you all made it. We can’t wait to hear all the details and celebrate with you!

Lisa

Posted by: Lisa Van Dusen on 6/24/2015 at 9:48 pm

Way to go everyone! Can’t wait to hear all about it Mere!

Sarah S

Posted by: Sarah S on 6/23/2015 at 9:46 am


Ecuador Seminar: Walter & Team Acclimate on Cerro Fuya Fuya

We packed up our gear, loaded up the van, and left Quito, heading north towards the town of Otavalo this morning. On tap was another acclimatization hike up the extinct volcano Fuya Fuya. The hike started at Lake Mojanda, high up in the Andes. The trail wove through the high Andean grassland, with increasing steepness with every step. A short rock scramble culminated in a 14,000' summit with great views and not a breath of wind. A quick descent followed. We are now at our hacienda for the night, Casa Sol, where we are looking forward to a hot shower and a nourishing meal...I'm sure we won't be disappointed. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Tyler - Ecuador..Mountain climbing?...I guess that means my Fathers Day card will be late… ha ha…Have a great trip and Text when you can. We love you! - Mom and Dad

Posted by: Andy Hardin on 6/20/2015 at 6:29 am


Mt. Rainier: June 19th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb, led by Seth Waterfall and Ben Liken, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Seth reported a fair amount of wind and cool temperatures with clouds hanging around 9,000’. Both teams began their descent at 7:25 a.m.
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We have prayed through the night that you and your team would summit this morning, June 19, 2018.

Posted by: Larry and Virgie Henry for Kari Henry on 6/19/2018 at 6:55 am

Go miki Mcadoo Kirby and Erik I will be watching for you

Posted by: Janice on 6/21/2015 at 6:28 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move into 14K Camp

Thursday June 18th 10:15 pm PT Today was another early wake up, and then we broke camp and retraced our steps back up to 14K Camp. Everyone did great with the move, and the name of the game for the rest of the day was beating the heat around camp, moving in and mentally preparing for a much deserved day of rest tomorrow. The word on the street is blueberry pancakes could be involved. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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Thanks for the posts.  They are great.  Go Aaron, we are praying for you and for good weather.  Thanks to the entire team!

Bob / Dad

Posted by: Bob Telford on 6/19/2015 at 6:51 pm

It’s so nice to reed that the whole team are doing good!:) All the best wishes for Erlend and Fredrik and everyone > you’ll make it. Erlend: :)(Robin is ok,  and Charlie didn’t do anything wrong since you left, I am cleaning the whole house this weekend and I’m not going out,can’t wait till you are back. Stay safe <3 Love you, h,  Trondheim, Norway

Posted by: Hilde on 6/19/2015 at 3:01 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Begin Their Mountain Days

Thursday June 18th 9:30 pm PT Hi everybody! Billy here checking in from Kahiltna Basecamp on a gloriously sunny day. We enjoyed a big breakfast this morning in Talkeetna's Roadhouse and scooted over to the airport to confirm the fact that we'd indeed be flying first thing. A flurry of packing and final weigh-ins preceded the loading of the planes, a group photo, and a smooth departure. The great folks at K2 were really helpful and quickly delivered our team to Basecamp in two simultaneous otter flights. Next thing we knew we were on the ice and having come from summer it felt a bit abrupt but the sun was strong and kept us warm as we got accustomed to our new surroundings. We spent much of the day building our camp, organizing gear and supplies, and rigging sleds for tomorrow's departure up the hill. The team is psyched for a big adventure and ready to work hard. All for now! RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

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Art, let me know if you want me to post any favorite passages from Ulysses for your amusement on your climb.

Posted by: Bob Ryan on 6/19/2015 at 11:29 am

Hey Kevin! How how is the food situation going? We hope you haven’t had to dump any of it yet haha!

Posted by: Angela and Carmen on 6/19/2015 at 11:09 am


Ecuador Seminar: Walter & Team Reach the Top of Rucu Pichincha

We had a great climb today, with everyone climbing strong and reaching the summit of Rucu Pichincha. At a height of nearly 15,700', many of our team set new personal altitude records today. We were working hard and breathing deeply in the thin air of Rucu, which rises abruptly out of the city of Quito. We accessed the upper ridge of Rucu via a gondola ride to over 13,000'. The weather cooperated with us today, although on the summit the views were obscured by clouds. Lower on the climb we were afforded impressive views down into the Quito valley below. We're psyched for a little down time this afternoon. We head up north tomorrow to climb Fuya Fuya. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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