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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Beren and Team Make Carry to 9,600’ Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

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Saturday, June 7th 10:36 PM PT Greetings from our home at 7,800' at the base of Ski Hill. Today we carried big loads up to 9,600' camp and made a cache. This allowed us to get in some mileage and take a day off the sleds. It also gives us a lighter move day tomorrow and every little bit helps! Just before dinner it started to snow and we retreated to tents to rest up for the upcoming day. Cross your fingers for clearing skies and we'll make the most of them. RMI Guide Jake Beren
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

George, Don’t forget to look up and enjoy the view!  Cyndi

Posted by: Cyndi on 6/9/2014 at 5:40 am

Jake…Hope you and the team are able to tag the summit…Godspeed…Thanks for your help on Rainier two Septembers ago…Waltero

Posted by: waltero glovedr on 6/9/2014 at 5:27 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Team on Summit June 8th

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb Teams for June 5 - 8, 2014 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 7 am today. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checked in from the crater rim. The teams are enjoying clear skies and cool temperatures during their time on top today. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise and return to Rainier Base Camp later today. Congratulations to today's teams!
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way to go!! Congrats! Jason Evan&Trey; ! Enjoy the view and weather and meal when u get down off the mountain. see ya soon! frank

Posted by: frank saunders on 6/9/2014 at 10:54 am

Bernt!  HA!

Posted by: Claire on 6/9/2014 at 5:49 am

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Grounded

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

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June 7, 2014 - 7:23 pm PT The past day and a half have been a whirlwind. Awakening early at 14,200' the skies had cleared spectacularly, a very nice change from the snowy weather we had getting to camp. With new snow on the ground climbing back down to 11,200' camp was easy. We picked up our cache and visited with friends and some fellow guides before heading down glacier to Basecamp. Because the glacier was in great shape we could travel during the day without needing to get on to a nighttime schedule to walk when the snow is cold and crevasse bridges stronger and safer. Six hours later we were at the airstrip on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. An hour later the great pilots at K2 had landed and were whisking us back to civilization. It was a rush to get in a shower before the restaurants closed. But we made it and gorged on some wonderful food and cold beverages. A visit to the infamous Fairview Inn to celebrate our trip led some to hydrate to excess into the wee hours of the morning, but incredibly all made it to breakfast at 8:00. And now we've split up and are going our own ways. Part of the team are going fishing and enjoying this great state some more, while the rest of us are flying home. Leah, Nick and I are among those going home, opting out of fishing this time so we can see our loved ones, and take a well deserved rest. Thanks for following along on our great adventure. See you next year! RMI Guides Brent Okita, Leah Fisher and Nick Hunt
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Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Cache Gear at 14K Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 7, 2014 - 7:33 pm PT The team got busy today by hauling a load of food and personal gear up to the next camp at 14,000'. Everyone performed well and we were able to cover the distance in just over four hours- a great pace. All along the trail, we passed groups who were either hauling gear up to cache or moving camp from 11,000' to 14,000'. It was fun to say "hi" and encourage groups we have met along the way. The small tent city that has surrounded us for the last few days will reassemble up higher as groups ready for a summit bid. Sitting at 14,000' this afternoon, the team got our first good look at the route. We talked through the flow of the climb and got excited. Hopefully, a few more short days will bring us the time to see if all of our preparations are sufficient to get to the top. Thanks for following our journey. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

41John, love from Farmor and also Farfar:  You can do it, You can do it.

Posted by: Farmor on 6/9/2014 at 9:46 am

Miss you!!!  Hope that you are making good progress!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/9/2014 at 7:55 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - The Stage is Set…

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 7, 2014 - 6:49 pm PT ...and the players are ready! Hello from our cloudy camp at 11,000. The team had a productive morning rising to a cold clear day! We started the day with a classic mountain breakfast of instant grits with a side of pop tarts. We know it's not likely many would approve but for us it hit the spot and was the fuel we needed on a breezy, cold morning lugging our cache loads all the way to our next camp at 14,200 ft. This was our first day of more technical climbing - we've been referring to the mountain behind us as the long heavy approach. The rope teams climbed with crampons and ice axes up Motorcycle Hill around to the famous Squirrel Hill. Lore has it that one early expedition had a furry stowaway on board that jumped from a member's pack at a break on this stretch of mountain, resulting in the long-standing name "Squirrel Hill." After this section we made great time up to and around Windy Corner, which gave us a taste of some icy breezes as we crested over into the sun. The remaining stretch of glacier went quickly, and we were dropping our kit into yet another snow hole before noon. The group climbed flawlessly as we were back to our tents at 11,200' before we knew it. Now we're resting and preparing for tomorrow's move up to our fourth camp,the highest so far. Don't touch that dial, we'll be back with an update tomorrow! RMI Guides Garrett, Tyler, Bryan, and the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job Jake! You are well prepared for what lies ahead!  Wish we knew what color your coat is, it’s hard to pick you out in the photos!  Love Mom

Posted by: Diane on 6/8/2014 at 4:39 pm

Congratulations Paul !!

You finally get to see the view from the 14,000 ft. camp.  Pretty amazing, isn’t it.  Sounds like the weather has been preety decent for you guys.  I hope it stays that way so you don’t get stuck hunkering down at 14k or 17k. 

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/8/2014 at 1:13 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 7th SUMMIT!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Solveig Waterfall and their Four Day Summit Climb Team reached the top of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported clear and beautiful weather with light winds of about 10 mph. The team has started their descent and will be back at RMI Basecamp this Afternoon. Congratulations to Today's Team!
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Congratulations, Bernt. Cant wait to hear about it when you get back to ME.

Posted by: Julie on 6/9/2014 at 12:39 pm

What an accomplishment- Matt Orr and Peter Wooding….and the entire team.  Can’t wait to have you back to hear stories and see pictures.  Could not have asked for a more beatiful day for your adventure.  Love, Jen

Posted by: Jen Orr on 6/7/2014 at 4:29 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Take a Rest Day at 11K Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 6, 2014 - 9:55 pm PT Today was a very productive day building red blood cells. We rested at 11,000 camp. After sleeping in, we spent the morning eating eggs, hash browns, and bacon and drinking coffee. We got to know some of our neighbors and packed for our carry to 13,400' tomorrow. Everyone is feeling strong and ready to keep working up hill. Thanks all for following along with us. RMI Guides Eric, Geoff and the UWR Team Jesse says: Family- John and I have hardly gotten into any trouble. The guides are great and like us. Today we played football and built snow thrones. I'm having such a blast. Kelly- I've been thinking about you. We should check out that cliff house restaurant when I get back. Or maybe that white door place on filmore. I've been thinking a lot about food too. Miss you babe!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

 
  John—good luck on the climb to the summit.  We are all rooting for you down below in the low lands. Tyler left your truck at my house and I might use it a little bit to haul some garbage but don’t worry I’ll take good care of it. 
Mark Crossgrove

Posted by: Mark Crossgrove on 6/8/2014 at 7:44 am

John - We are thinking about you every day my good man.  We have been reading the daily posts as a family and I showed the kids where you are at on the map.  Looking forward to seeing your cheery face soon.

The York Family

Posted by: Gary York on 6/7/2014 at 7:05 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Camped at the Base of Ski Hill

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

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June 6, 2014 - 11:30 pm PT 70 years ago there was a landing much different than ours in a far away land. We are grateful for those past sacrifices. Our landing was quite pleasant, leaving Talkeetna early and spending the morning packing up to head down the the Main Fork of the Kahiltna and make that crucial right turn towards Denali. The team did well and we made camp at the base of Ski Hill under clearing skies, alpenglow of the high mountains and a just past halt moon. Nice way to start it off. After setting up shop, the crew is hunkered down for some well earned rest and if the weather smiles on us again, we'll go higher tomorrow. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dawn-Hope the weather “smiles” for the rest of your climb!!
I’m living vicariously…

Posted by: Dana Marie Buchanan on 6/8/2014 at 8:31 pm

Sending George and Everyone lots of positive thoughts .... xxx Rosemary and Larry

Posted by: Rosemary and Larry on 6/8/2014 at 10:53 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Enjoy a Day of Leisure, Training, and Preparation

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 6, 2014 - 8:37 pm PT Today we woke to a grand flurry of climbers packing and moving up to the fourteen thousand camp. For us though, it was a day of rest and we crawled out of our sleeping bags after the sun warmed the air in the tents. We ate another great breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and bacon, firing our spirits for a day of organizing our gear for tomorrow's carry up to the 14,200ft camp. We'll once again be separated from a few of our goodie bags and the gear we will use on the upper mountain. We had a great review of advanced crampon technique, ice axe use, and general efficiency skills needed for our continued success at altitude as we move higher up. The real climbing starts from here, and we'll don our crampons and ice axe for climbing steeper, more technical terrain and entering the more challenging altitudes. With this day of rest, light activity and acclimatization our carry should be no sweat for our crew. Send some more nice weather our way and we'll let you know when our cache has landed at its next destination! Cheers, RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett, Bryan, and the crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thinking of you Jen and this incredible adventure you are on. Praying that the weather holds up and you will reach the summit soon. Lots of love.

Posted by: Aunt Marie on 6/7/2014 at 8:18 pm

Great job. Thinking of you, Dave and the whole crew.
Have a safe climb. Can’t wait to hear all about it.

Posted by: Bonnie on 6/7/2014 at 3:15 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Pick Up 9,900’ Cache

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 5, 2014 - 11:57 pm PT We slept in a bit this morning as light snow fell on camp. After a leisurely breakfast of bagels with bacon and cream cheese, we walked 30 minutes down to our cache at 9,900'. After returning to 11K Camp, we rested before building snow walls around our tents. Everyone is doing very well and excited to keep working up. With light snow still falling this evening, we are going to keep watching the weather and take it day by day. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

On The Map

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It would appear that you have a terrific team climbing with you this year.  They need to know that they are in good hands.  Your knowledge, understanding and skill on Denali is unprecedented.  Your ability to transfer those traits and abilities to provide a great experience to us average climbers can not be acknowledged enough.  Your ability to weigh risk and benefit to determine appropriate action or task is exceptional.  I have enjoyed following your team so far.  Looks like you have some significant weather coming at you over the next few days.  Climb safe.  JB 2012

Posted by: Jeff Boskind on 6/7/2014 at 9:20 am

Looking good gentlemen!! Thank you for keeping us all up to speed on your astounding progress.

I’m appreciative of being able to live vicariously through you courageous, crazy specimens all the way from sunny California. Proud of you guys…

Rob

Posted by: Rob Lynch on 6/6/2014 at 10:04 pm

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