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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: June 5th Team Turns Due to Poor Visibility

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Dominic Cifelli turned at 13,100' on Mt. Rainier this morning. Low visibility, moderate precipitation, and wind prevented the team from climbing above 13,100' feet. JM Gorum radioed the RMI Office to let us know that the team is currently descending and will be back to Camp Muir soon.

Congratulations to Today's team! 

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: King & Team Back Carry and Active Rest Day

Friday, June 4, 2021 - 7:22 pm PT

It’s different living at 14,200’. The air is colder, you get winded easier and stoves don’t burn as efficient. We slept in today and waited for the sun to hit our tents before heading down to get our cache at 13,500’. The group did well and we were back in camp for an active rest day. The guides finished the kitchen/dining tent and the climbers enjoyed the views of Mt. Foraker and Mt Hunter. Our 3rd RMI team descended from 17K Camp after a successful summit. Warm tents and good conversations passed the afternoon quickly and we are getting ready for dinner. To better acclimate we’ll take a rest day tomorrow and see what the weather brings.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Rest well Mike , Tom and team!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/6/2021 at 3:31 am

Keep up the good work Two-Dads! Just reading this blog makes me feel tired

Posted by: Adam on 6/5/2021 at 7:39 pm


Schmitt & Team Fly onto Denali to Start Their Expedition

Friday, June 4, 2021 - 3:09 pm PT

After our dry run yesterday, we got to do the real thing today. We landed on to the Kahiltna at precisely 10 am, and boy was it already hot! We were hoping to hit the ground running, but talking to teams coming off the lower Kahiltna and looking at the temps we decided to take the day to review skills, dig a cache and organize.

Due to the hot temps we are switching to a night schedule so we will sleep through the heat of the day today and depart when things firm up! Morale is high and we are super excited to be on the mountain!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kyle & Team: We’re thinking of you and wish you the best. You’ve got this! -Jonas and everyone in Anchorage.

Posted by: Jonas Walker on 6/6/2021 at 9:45 am

Happy to hear about you progress. Sounds toasty. Use that sunscreen,

Posted by: richard loftus aka Kiira's Gramps on 6/5/2021 at 2:54 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 4th Update

Summit!  Today's Mt. Rainier teams, led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Nikki Champion, reached the top this morning.  After spending some time on the summit, they began their descent at 9:00 a.m.

Congratulations to the teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14K Camp

Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 9:59 pm PT

We got up and packed up camp this morning with blue skies and little to no wind. Having just put in a cache at 13,500’ the terrain would not be new. A warmer day than yesterday had us stuck at times behind slower moving parties. We got to 14,200’ camp located in Genet Basin having done a lot of hard work but the Team built camp and we are getting ready for a late dinner. We got a chance to see 2 of 3 RMI teams as they descended from high camp this evening. Tomorrow we will sleep in, pick up our cache and continue to improve camp. No need to go up high until we get a few nights here and some well earned rest. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

This is Awesome news!!  Enjoy every moment , every beautiful view! Climb Strong Tom!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/5/2021 at 2:47 am

Great to see blue skies and improved weather. Get needed rest and move ahead. Thank you for in insight and photography. Tell Rob hello, Tio

Posted by: Kleberg Tio on 6/4/2021 at 12:56 pm


RMI Guide Eric Frank Calls from the Denali Summit!

Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 6:15 pm PT

Good afternoon! This is RMI Guide Eric Frank calling on June 3rd from the summit of Denali, the highest point in North America. We are up here on a beautiful afternoon, in-and-out of the clouds. Sometimes we can see 100 miles; sometimes we can only see our climbing boots. We had an awesome climb today. Started off a little chilly in the shade, but all-in-all it has been a wonderful day of climbing.  We are enjoying 15 minutes on top right now. It is about 5:15 local time. We are going to pack up and head downhill where we should be back between 9 and 10 pm tonight.  Thanks everyone for following along.  Friends and family- I am sure you’ll be happy to hear from your respective individuals in a few days.  Our hope is to move down to a lower elevation, thicker air and catch a plane to the land of burgers and beer within a couple of days.  Thanks for following along. Bye.

RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the Denali summit!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

E-L-L-I-O-T

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!!!

Enjoy the peace and wonder of your celebratory lap down mountain.

Love ya, proud of ya - period.

Sláinte

The Old Man

 

Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 6/5/2021 at 6:35 pm

Awesome Job Eric!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/5/2021 at 2:50 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Waiting Anxiously to Fly

Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 11:37 am PT

We woke up early this morning to try to get the first flight slot out this morning, and optimistically we got our boots on and loaded up the planes. Unfortunately, as things often happen in Alaska, we got turned around just as we were entering the Alaska Range due to low visibility. We are now back in Talkeetna anxiously awaiting our next opportunity to fly. Stay tuned.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Steve and Alan (and everyone else), here’s to some bluebirds in your immediate future.  Hope you’re enjoying your hangar hangout time!

Posted by: John Schampel on 6/4/2021 at 7:00 pm

Jack and Nick, no matter what, you look cool!

Posted by: Barb and John The Parents on 6/4/2021 at 3:06 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter, Van Deventer & Teams Summit!

Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 10:27 am PT

We've waited through wind and snow for weeks and we finally got our shot. We woke up yesterday to clear skies and relatively (for 17k feet) warm temps in camp. We had stoves firing early, before sun hit camp, and got everyone up to start prepping. With breakfast done and packs loaded we stepped out of our sunny camp into the shadow of the Autobahn. It was a chilly couple hours crossing to Denali Pass and we were all psyched to get back into the sun. A slight, but cold 10mph breeze in our face kept it chilly all day, but we kept moving past Zebra Rocks, around Archdeacons Tower, onto the Football Field, up Pig Hill, and along the summit ridge to the summit! We were standing on top just after 6pm yesterday. With photos taken, we started working our way back down, well aware of the distance still to get back to the comfort of our sleeping bags. The long hours of sun help alot and we rolled back into camp around 11pm, just as the sun left camp. Tired, chilly, sore, but excited that we managed to reach our goal!

We'll start working our way down the mountain today, back to warmer temps, more oxygen, and a flight back to Talkeetna. They tend to be long days, so dispatches might be short, but we are headed home.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert, Luke Wilhelm, and RMI Teams 1 and 2

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an amazing accomplishment all of you have made !! Marc, I am so proud and honored to have you as my son.

Love you, Papa Bear

Posted by: David Gollob on 6/5/2021 at 7:33 am

Congratulations all! Such a lifetime of memories. Be safe coming down so you can make more memories.

Posted by: Susan K. Moore on 6/4/2021 at 10:27 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Summit

RMI Guide Mike Walter and his team reached the Denali summit yesterday with Pete Van Deventer's team.  

Congratulations to both teams!

Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 10:27 am PT

We've waited through wind and snow for weeks and we finally got our shot. We woke up yesterday to clear skies and relatively (for 17k feet) warm temps in camp. We had stoves firing early, before sun hit camp, and got everyone up to start prepping. With breakfast done and packs loaded we stepped out of our sunny camp into the shadow of the Autobahn. It was a chilly couple hours crossing to Denali Pass and we were all psyched to get back into the sun. A slight, but cold 10mph breeze in our face kept it chilly all day, but we kept moving past Zebra Rocks, around Archdeacons Tower, onto the Football Field, up Pig Hill, and along the summit ridge to the summit! We were standing on top just after 6pm yesterday. With photos taken, we started working our way back down, well aware of the distance still to get back to the comfort of our sleeping bags. The long hours of sun help alot and we rolled back into camp around 11pm, just as the sun left camp. Tired, chilly, sore, but excited that we managed to reach our goal!

We'll start working our way down the mountain today, back to warmer temps, more oxygen, and a flight back to Talkeetna. They tend to be long days, so dispatches might be short, but we are headed home.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert, Luke Wilhelm, and RMI Teams 1 and 2

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Belated congratulations! Well done!

Posted by: Susan K. Moore on 6/4/2021 at 10:31 pm

Way to go Team Walter! Can’t wait to see you Nate and hear of your adventure! Godspeed

Posted by: Mary Glassman on 6/4/2021 at 4:48 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 3rd Team Summits!

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Dave Hahn and Andy Bond, reached the summit at 6:30 this morning!  The teams had some wind and clear blue skies on their ascent.  They are currently working their way back to Camp Muir and we look forward to congratulating them at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Tyler, What an accomplishment!! So proud of you.. Can’t wait to hear all about your journey! Safe travel home.  Carm and Les

Posted by: Carm Stasick on 6/4/2021 at 4:16 am

Great job Tyler! All that hard work paid off!

Posted by: Terri and John Hager on 6/3/2021 at 9:54 am

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