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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team in Place at 17K for Summit Bid

Wednesday, June 2, 2021 - 11:47 pm PT

The team moved to Denali's 17K Camp today through tough winds.  We left camp early to blue skies and cold air as we headed up the fixed lines.  The top of the fixed lines yielded increased wind, and we quickly donned our hard shells.  As we climbed further up the West Buttress, we pushed through more ferocious wind and scattered clouds.   Thankfully, as we rolled into camp the clouds abated and we are left hoping the weather holds for our summit push tomorrow.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

E-L-L-I-O-T & Team!

Denali Rules: P = m x v

(summit) Momentum = (team) Mass x Velocity (of its heart)

Stay present; enjoy your ride up and down that glacial coaster!

Un pour tous et tous pour un!

Love

Athos, Porthos & Aramis

Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 6/3/2021 at 6:34 pm

Elliot and team

Our positive thoughts are coming your way for a successful climb to the summit.

You’ve got this!

Mom and Dad Campos

Posted by: Susan Campos on 6/3/2021 at 11:58 am


Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Supplies Around Windy Corner

Wednesday, June 2, 2021 - 5:24 pm PT

We had a cold clear night and woke to blue skies. The goal today was to cache food and fuel around Windy Corner at 13,500'. The route would take us up Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill. From there it’s across the Polo Field and into the Saddle before Windy Corner. Windy Corner lived up to its name but the winner of the strongest winds today was the Polo Field. The Team did well and enjoyed the amazing views of the surrounding Alaska Range. We are back at 11K Camp eating food and enjoying some warm tents. We hope to move to 14K Camp tomorrow if the weather permits. There is a weather system forecasted that might keep us here for a few days. We’ll let you know when we know.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great photos, looks spectacular. Stay strong Rob and team!

Posted by: Brett on 6/4/2021 at 7:07 am

Climb Strong Brother Tom!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/4/2021 at 2:51 am


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Sort Gear and Food to Move to High Camp

Tuesday, June 1, 2021 - 10:48 pm PT

A fresh few inches of snow covered camp this morning as we waited for the sun to warm us up.  We slowly rolled out of our sleeping bags and ate a leisurely paced blueberry pancake breakfast.  The day was spent preparing for our move to 17,000' Camp tomorrow.  We sorted our gear into summit gear and gear we can leave here at 14,000' Camp as well as planned our food for our summit push.  The afternoon was full of movie watching and sport eating, a favorite Denali pastime.  After dinner and philosophical discussions, we all tucked into our tents to be rested for the coming days ahead.  

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Let’s go James!!!!! You are such an inspiration.

Get down safe, can’t wait to hear all about it!

Posted by: Thomas on 6/4/2021 at 7:20 am

Cheering you on Norm!!!
What an adventure!!
Prayers and lots of enthusiasm for you and the group!!!
Positive thoughts going your way!!

Love Laura & Mike

Posted by: Laura on 6/3/2021 at 10:57 am


Denali Expedition: King & Team have a Rest/Weather Day at 11K

Tuesday, June 1, 2021 - 3:10 pm PT

The forecast ended up being accurate for a change. We got light snow and wind beginning around midnight that has intensified over the morning. Between the wind, snow and lack of visibility we are staying at 11,200’ today in hopes of making a carry to 13,500’ when the weather allows. Until then we are enjoying the heavier meals and lot of good stories in the kitchen tent. While not the most exciting part of the trip, days like this let the legs rest and the heart/lungs acclimate which will only help us up higher on Denali.

RMI Guide Mike King

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I hope you are acclimating well; taking deep breath’s and enjoying such amazing views. Praying for good weather and a safe climb. Cheeseburgers will be waiting for you!

Posted by: claudette Crockett on 6/4/2021 at 5:01 am

Stay warm Rob and team!

Posted by: Connie on 6/3/2021 at 7:41 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Stay Put at 17K with New Snow

Tuesday, June 1, 2021 - 12:03 pm PT

Happy June 1st! It doesn't feel like it much here at 17K. We missed sending a dispatch last night because of some electronic technical difficulties that are resolved, but you should have heard via RMI Alaska Team led by Mike Walter that we all moved to 17K yesterday on a perfect day. It was relatively warm, calm, sunny, and as we were the first few teams out of camp, were able to move smoothly up the fixed lines and along the West Buttress.

We had hopes of going for the summit today, but the chance of snow that often only brings precip to the lower mountain defied that hope overnight and into today. We've got 3 to 4 inches of new snow in camp, still snowing, low vis, and just enough wind to move it around at maximum efficiency. It was a pretty easy call to stay in the tents today and ride it out, hoping that tomorrow brings clearer conditions.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wahoo to ALL of you!  What a thrill to watch your progress from afar.  I say sleep for days has been well earned!!  I am so very proud of each of you and all the major steps you took to get there and then to make the summit.  Wow is all I’ve got and thanks to the team of guides who kept you safe and focused and climbing!!!  Amazing!

Posted by: Bethany on 6/3/2021 at 4:22 am

Can’t wait to hear you made it to summit - good luck Matt!  All the way!

Posted by: Mitchell Fry on 6/2/2021 at 5:03 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Rest at 17,200ft Camp, Hoping for Summit bid

Tuesday, June 1, 2021 - 11:26 am PT

Snow and wind moved in last night, so both RMI Denali Expeditions led by RMI Guides Mike Walter & Pete Van Deventer are resting, tent bound at 17,000' Camp. The weather is not violent, but it is miserable outside of our tents with lots of blowing snow. On the upside, it’s pretty warm for 17,200’.

Hopefully tomorrow’s forecast verifies and we’ll have a chance for a summit bid. In the meantime we’re trying to stay warm and dry, hydrated and fed.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Ben! 
Hopefully you and your team are sitting on top of the world today! What a courageous and impressive challenge you chose. Looking forward to seeing your photos and hearing your stories. Stay safe!
Pat and Althea

Posted by: Althea Daley on 6/2/2021 at 5:32 pm

Hoping you all made it to the summit today. We can’t wait to hear how it went, especially Alex’s mom!

Posted by: Jackie Woolley on 6/2/2021 at 1:04 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Teams Reach Summit

RMI Teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning!  The Five Day Climb, May 29 - 2 June, made their summit attempt this morning led by RMI Guides Jenny Konway and Taylor Bickford.  The teams were walking into the crater rim around 7:15 am.  Taylor reported an exceptional day on the mountain with very little wind, good route conditions and warm temperatures.  The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent.  They will return to Camp Muir for their second and final night on the mountain. 

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Congratulations to the teams for reaching the summit!!

Posted by: Tracey Inman on 6/3/2021 at 8:38 am


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Train at 14,000ft and Make Carry

Monday, May 31, 2021 - 11:09 pm PT

Sunday, May 30th, started out clear and cold but quickly warmed up as the sun hit our camp. The good weather meant moral was high in 14,000' Camp as everyone who was acclimated and ready to go started to climb towards High Camp at 17,200'. We, of course, being new to this high elevation stayed in camp and watched the conga line turn into a log jam at the base of the fixed lines. We made good use of our day by brushing up on our fixed line and running belay techniques. At the end of the day a well worn trail was stomped in by the uphill traffic and left us feeling optimistic about our own plans to cache at 16,200'.

Today (May 31) the team braved a cold morning in order to get a head start out of camp.  We climbed up the fixed lines and cached at 16,250' on the West Buttress.   The afternoon turned into a scorcher on the way down as the solar energy made it feel like 90 degrees outside.  We returned to camp and had delicious burritos for dinner. 

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Norm and your team!  Stay safe and enjoy, can’t wait to see the pics and hear the stories!

Posted by: Linda Hill on 6/3/2021 at 8:55 pm

Elliot - looks like an incredible adventure!!  Hope you and the team stay safe and warm. Keep on trucking and enjoy the views!

Alex

Posted by: Alex Thornton on 6/1/2021 at 8:22 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to High Camp, Hope for Summit Attempt

Monday, May 31, 2021 - 10:21 pm PT

Both RMI Denali Expeditions led RMI Guides Mike Walter and Pete Van Deventer made it to High Camp today at 17, 200'. We are busy melting snow and making hot water for dinner. If the weather is good, we hope to go for the top tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yessir! Good luck my guy. xoxo

Posted by: Z on 6/1/2021 at 8:39 am

I hope you make it

Posted by: Erin on 6/1/2021 at 8:09 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Move to 17,200, High Camp

Monday, May 31, 2021 - 10:21 pm PT

Both RMI Denali Expeditions led RMI Guides Mike Walter and Pete Van Deventer made it to High Camp today at 17, 200'. We are busy melting snow and making hot water for dinner. If the weather is good, we hope to go for the top tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow. Spectacular. Your patience has paid off. Good luck with your summit. Be safe and have a blast at the top of the world.

Posted by: Bruce on 6/1/2021 at 12:10 pm

We are soooooo excited for all of you, but especially BEN!  We hear the view from the top is pretty spectacular and we can’t wait to hear all about it! God bless!  Pat and Althea

Posted by: Althea Daley on 6/1/2021 at 10:32 am

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