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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: King & Team Reach the Summit!

RMI Guide Mike King and his team reached the summit of Denali, 20,310' today around 6:35 PM PT. Their June 4th Expedition met in Anchorage and has spent the last several weeks, acclimatizing, climbing and waiting out the weather. Their patience and perseverance paid off today. Congratulations to the team!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great work from the whole team.

Special shout out to Ben Ammon.

Posted by: Kevin Pilloud on 6/25/2018 at 7:45 am

Awesome work to the whole team!!  We have done our best to follow the hike and send good vibes to Alex and the team.  Make it back safe so we can hear about the adventure ~ Matt & Malin

Posted by: Matthew A Lewis on 6/24/2018 at 6:53 pm


Mt. Rainier: Okita, Grom, & Team Stand Victorious on Columbia Crest!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Brent Okita and Casey Grom were standing on the true summit of Mt. Rainer, Columbia Crest, at 7:00 AM PT this morning. At the time of the call they reported winds at about 30 MPH and were beginning the journey back across the crater of Mt. Rainier for the descent. We are looking forward to seeing them back on our Ashford Basecamp sometime around 3:00 - 5:00 PM PT. Congratulations climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yah!  What were the weather conditions- wind speed and all?

Posted by: Hollyanne on 6/24/2018 at 11:20 am

Congratulations to your team….....Quite an accomplishment, you’re to be proud ! ! !

Barbara

Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/23/2018 at 9:47 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Cache Gear at 13,500’

Friday, June 22, 2018 - 9:49 pm PT We woke up very early this morning to start checking the weather. We were trying to let the mountain tell us whether to head uphill to cache some gear or to wait another day for conditions to settle down. Denali was cryptic for awhile but finally delivered a confirmation that it was OK for us to climb by clearing the skies up high. We jumped into action and started climbing into moderate winds. The winds stayed with us for most of the upwards climb which kept us cool as the sun finally poked out. The team finally got the view they deserved from our cache site at 13,500'. We have been living in the clouds for too many days! If the weather looks good in the morning, we are going to head up to 14k feet and make our next camp. Fingers crossed for high pressure! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hooray! Keep these great reports coming! Enjoy the sun and views.

Posted by: David Clemmons on 6/24/2018 at 4:09 pm

Lindsay and Matt
Amazing!
Keeping you and your team in our prayers.
Enjoy the journey!
Love you,
Aunt Norma

Posted by: Norma Jean on 6/24/2018 at 9:01 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Snow Day at 7,800’

Friday, June 22, 2018 - 8:57 pm PT The snow just kept on coming down last night. It didn’t pile up all that deeply, but it was persistent and wet. We kept checking through the early morning hours, and then through the mid morning hours after a team breakfast, but it went right on until the early afternoon. By then we’d determined to take a hint and declare a rest day. Things actually cleared up nicely by mid-afternoon and Denali came out in all her glory. By then it was unbearably hot in the tents and would have been about ten times hotter walking uphill with big packs and sleds. We rested. It was burrito night in the main dining tent and after a great feed and some storytelling, we returned to the tents under once again cloudy skies. We’ll hope for a better morning tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We are so enjoying following your journey and the pictures are magnificent. Continuing to pray for good weather, safety, and health of all of you! Godspeed!

Posted by: Shari Ramsey on 6/24/2018 at 9:28 am

Jon & Margaret - Stay healthy and in good spirits.  I check this blog every day.

Posted by: Joy Reuter on 6/24/2018 at 8:29 am


Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 17K Camp

Friday, June 22, 2018 - 7:45 pm PT It's been a Tale of Two Camps, either the Camp all sits together or they rally up the same piece of terrain at the same time. We were second on the fixed lines and after an initial moment of flailing we got to 16,200' for a break. The remainder of the day had us climbing the West Buttress into 17 camp with amazing views of the Peters Glacier and North Summit of Denali. Light wind made some of the exposed ridge sections feel more exposed. Today was a good lesson in keeping toes and fingers warm because we didn't set any records for the 14-17 leg. Everyone is nestled in their tents drying out boots and gloves. Dinner, hydration, sleep and hopefully we'll be heading for the summit on Saturday. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on Summit

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Christina Dale have reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. Eric reported chilly temperatures and light winds. The teams will enjoy some time on the summit before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Chad you are so strong and amazing! I am so proud of you! I can’t wait to hear your stories!!!

Posted by: Donna on 6/22/2018 at 10:58 am

So proud of you Chad. Can’t wait to hear all about it and see some stellar Picts. Hopefully the skys were open?

Posted by: Ryan on 6/22/2018 at 10:49 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Move to 7,800 and Set Up Camp

Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 10:39 PM PT We were up at 2 AM for our much anticipated launch from Denali Basecamp. It was still cloudy and overcast and seemed to be moving toward being more cloudy and overcast, but we felt we had something of a window for moving. After a hot breakfast, we knocked down tents and rigged up for glacial travel. By 4:38 we were walking down the SE Fork of the Kahiltna with our snowshoes on. A number of other teams had begun climbing in the hours ahead of our departure, so the soft snow trail was packed nicely for us. As expected, glacier conditions were good and it was a relief not to be crossing open crevasses and sagging snow bridges. There wasn’t too much to see with all of the cloud, so we just concentrated on walking steady for an hour at a push. We very nearly saw the sun at one point just after 8 AM but that was it despite this being the Solstice and a traditional big day for sun worshipers. Five and a half hours brought us to 7800 ft, and our intended destination. By that point the clouds were right down on us and it was snowing lightly. We built a quick camp and got inside before it got snowing a little more heavily in the early afternoon. We snoozed and drank water to recover from the morning workout. The wet snow continued right through dinner, but we weren’t so uncomfortable in our cozy dining tent with snow benches and countertops. Now that all are in bed, the snow keeps on coming, but quietly... there is no wind and that is a good thing. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad to see that you all are moving. And what a joy it must’ve been to see Denali out in its full glory. Wishing you good weather and safe climbing ahead. Thinking about you lots Margaret and Jon. Holding down the fort here in Anchorage, Hugs from Melonie and licks from Wiz

Posted by: Melonie Rieck on 6/22/2018 at 11:32 pm

Climb on Tom, Sending those strength and good weather prayers your way Brother!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/22/2018 at 10:16 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 10:16 PM PT After the Hurricane Horiskey beatdown and yesterday’s big move we decided today was a great day to rest and let our bodies begin to acclimatize to the higher altitudes. So we slept until the sun hit our tents and then we enjoyed a hardy meal of breakfast quesos and talked strategy for our cache day tomorrow. Post breakfast we enjoyed an afternoon snooze (have to let the breakfast settle) and then did some organizational prep before rollin on into dinner and a celebration of Josh’s 48 birthday! He had a smile bigger than the solstice sun when we sung him Happy Birthday and presented him with a cheesecake and mini cake complete with a candle. After filling our bellies we dispersed to our tents and are enjoying the rest of solstice snuggled up waiting for our cache day tomorrow. All is well here with our Super Crew! Happy solstice everyone! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Birthday cake at 11,000 ft - now that is the RMI difference!  I’m sure the team is happy to have a little rest but probably ready to be on the move again. Great job, Super Crew.

Posted by: Nancie Summerlin on 6/22/2018 at 10:03 am


Denali Expedition: King & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp Hopeful for Break in Weather

Thursday, June 21, 2018 - 10:04 PM PT Yup, just another weather day here at 14,000' Camp on Denali. Snow and calm air the entire day. Breakfast was ate, coffee drank and cards played throughout the day in the Posh. We were hopeful this low pressure system was breaking up tomorrow. Instead it looks to be a Saturday to Monday window. We'll wake up at 5 am and check the weather. Fingers crossed we can get to 17 camp and be on the summit Saturday. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wishing clear skies boys!  All the best, Yeagers

Posted by: Dave Yeager on 6/22/2018 at 7:16 pm

JT-

Woo hoo! Looks like you may get a break in the weather soon? No recent JT type 2 adventures to report.. Thinking of all you guys on the homestretch! Hopefully you’ll be on that summit soon. Hugs!

Madeline

Posted by: Madeline Emmer on 6/22/2018 at 1:18 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Headed Home

RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott, along with their expedition team flew off of Denali on June 20th. They will be headed home from Anchorage in the next couple of days.
Leave a Comment For the Team
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