Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 11:40 PM PT
Today we got a nice breakfast in town and headed over to the hanger for a final bit of packing. The weather turned out to be a bit fickle so we started some training to pass the time and our fingers were crossed for improving weather. We went to our lunch break and just when the rain started in town the mountains opened and we got the word we would try to fly on the glacier. We’re finally here at
Base Camp and will make our first move early in the morning toward 7,800 camp at the base of Ski Hill. We enjoyed our first dinner as the skies were clearing and caught a glimpse of Denali in the distance!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott
On The Map
After a lazy morning of hiding in tents or the cook tent from the snow and wind we had brunch. It was a two hot drink kind of morning. But then the temps warmed and the clouds lightened and we set up a ropes course on the glacier. We used ascenders to climb ropes, rappels to descend, and tethers to traverse. After some avalanche beacon searching drills, we hunkered down for some lunch and an avalanche formation lecture. All in all, a lot of practice clipping carabiners and using gear. This group has taken everything in stride and keeps impressing us with their focus and energy. We also have been enjoying the laughter that seems to roll out of the kitchen tent all evening. Tomorrow we'll rig sleds and head back to
Kahiltna Basecamp and then into a hot shower way too soon after that. Whether we're climbing, learning, or hanging out, this group has been a true pleasure to be with for the past eight days.
RMI Guides Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, and Alex Halliday
It’s a few minutes after 8pm and the Bolivia climbing team members are already cuddled inside our respective sleeping bags, excited for tomorrow.
Today was a good day. We awoke to a quick breakfast and broke down our tents as the sun crested the ridge to our east. Thirty minutes later, our duffels were loaded on donkeys and we moved camp uphill two hours to our high camp.
This afternoon we hiked to the toe of the glacier and did some training on advanced techniques- cramponing on ice, short roping and the finer points of pitched climbing. Now we have the skill set we need to tackle our first climb,
Pequeño Alpamayo, tomorrow.
The weather looks good and with any luck we should be calling from the top by mid to late morning.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
This morning we awoke just before 2:00am hoping to take advantage of some favorable weather on the mountain. We were rewarded with an incredible morning. Calm winds and clear skies! A full moon and stars everywhere confirmed that we had made the right call to climb. Leaving just a little later than we would on a regular summit climb allowed us minimal exposure to the coldest part of the night, yet still get down before it got too darned hot out. We reached the summit just before 8:00 with no wind and the sun's rays beginning to warm us up. After an hour on top we started our descent, which our team rocked.
We're all back at
Muir now, relaxing in the sun or catching up on some sleep in the sleeping bags, taking a well deserved rest. But the day's not over yet. This crew is still psyched to hone their mountain skills, so later on we'll be learning about anchors, belaying and anything else they are interested in. This will get us ready for our day of crevasse rescue and ice climbing tomorrow.
All for now,
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Jordan Cargill, JT Schmitt, Gloria Roe, and Ross Morgan
Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 1:50 pm PT
Our team is taking another planned rest day today, the first multiple rest day stint of our trip. The weather at
14,200' right now is chilly with very light snow. This unsettled weather is forecasted to last into tomorrow before clearer weather moves in through the weekend. We are hopeful the weather will allow us to move to high camp tomorrow so that we can take advantage of a potentially good weather window (Fri/Sat/Sun) for a summit attempt.
We're all doing well, and optimistic that our chance to tag the top is right around the corner. Until then, we'll be resting and getting stronger.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 7:30 AM.
RMI Guides Brent Okita and Jordan Cargill chose to make their summit attempt today due to the nice weather. Brent reported no wind and a perfect day on the mountain. The team will return to Camp Muir and continue to their training until Friday when they will descend to Paradise. The top photos are from today's summit climb, the bottom two photos are from Tuesday's training above Camp Muir.
Congratulations to the climbers!
Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 11:38 PM PT
It was another pretty perfect morning on Denali, so we made hay. We started off a bit earlier with a smoked salmon and bagel breakfast, then loaded up most of our food and fuel, strapped on crampons for the first time, and started up
Motorcycle Hill. The was a slight breeze to keep things cool, and a few moments of windy corner were cold enough to elicit brain freeze, but everything went incredibly smoothly. So smoothly that we decided to keep going all the way to Mike Walter and team's Camp at 14. They were nice enough to let us stash our load in their camp and keep an eye on it. We spent an hour visiting with friends and enjoying the new scene before we had back for our own Camp at 11. With our stuff up high, we're ready to move up at the next opportunity!
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team
On The Map
Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 9:08 pm PT
We had our first overcast day today and it was a nice break from the intense sunshine. Temperatures were much cooler under the cloud cover and that made the climbing more pleasant for us all. After an early dinner we all kicked back in the cook tent and enjoyed movie night. Tonight's feature was "The brothers grimsby". Back to climbing in the morning when we head to Camp at 11,200 ft.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
On The Map
Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:28 PM PT
Today we awoke to some of the first stormy weather of the trip. After sleeping in a little and taking the time to make a delicious pancake and bacon breakfast we roped up and spent the afternoon climbing to Furien Col taking advantage of a good weather window. The climb was steep and involved. We used many of the
climbing and anchoring techniques that we've learned throughout the week. It was fun to put our skills to use and get up to a high point. Unfortunately, no views for us because the weather rolled in and we were inside a pingpong ball. We descended from the col and are taking time to rest in our tents.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Our beach vacation on Isla del Sol came to an end today as we made our way into the
Bolivian Andes to begin the mountain portion of the trip.
The first of our three peaks is called Pequeno Alpamayo, located next to Condoriri. The views were amazing as we walked to our Base Camp at 14,700’, located at the base of the valley surrounded by big glaciated peaks, including Huayna Potosi (our 2nd peak on the trip).
We are all enjoying the luxuries of amazing home cooked meals including having lunch today at Gregorio’s house (a local farmer) on the way to base camp.
Tomorrow we’ll move camp and do some training on a glacier before our first summit attempt.
RMI Guides Eric Frank & Andy Bond
Thank you for all of the updates. We are praying for good weather and for your safety on this incredible adventure! Love you Tyler, mom and dad
Posted by: donna shearburn on 6/1/2018 at 6:33 am
Glad you guys made it to base camp Shawn! It looks beautiful up there. I will be checking in daily. Mom and I miss you already! Take care, we love you! Kam
Posted by: Kam on 5/31/2018 at 2:05 pm
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