Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Monday, May 28th - 10:47 pm PST
We had a busy day of nothing. After three big days of moving a lot of gear, it was a perfect day to rest, nap, and take care of sore feet. We had a pleasant pancake brunch, then retired to the tents for naps, movies, and reading. We got out to move a bit this afternoon and refresh our climbing skills, then took that into dinner, and off to bed. Rest days are exhausting after all. Tomorrow we'll get back to work and carry a load of food and gear to
13,500' or so. All for now,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer , Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team
On The Map
Monday, May 28th - 9:48 pm PST
Just a quick update: We had beautiful weather today and we took advantage of it by carrying up to
17,200', our future high camp, to establish a cache. It was a long day with beautiful climbing. I'll write more tomorrow as there is still a ton to do at camp and the sun is already behind the ridge.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Monday, May 28th - 8:10 pm PST
We woke up to more sunshine and the smell of bacon on the Kahiltna. After breakfast burritos browned to perfection by Lucas, we packed up camp and took off down
Heart Break Hill. Named for its uphill torture on the way back to the airstrip. Everyone reported feeling "great!" after the descent. But then we started the glacier slog with heavy packs and sleds. The next break the team reported feeling "good." After another two hours the team asked, "So, where is camp?" We pulled into a perfect camp in Farine Basin and got to work excavating the glacier and flattening our sleeping nooks. Now it looks perfect for the night. The team is doing well and showed their strength by building camp in good fashion after a long day. If this good weather holds, we'll attempt to climb Farine Peak tomorrow.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Another day of brilliant blue skies greeted us this morning while we sipped coffee and ate a lazy breakfast. The objective for the day was to take a meandering walk along the terraced ridges and slopes of
Isla del Sol, gaining some additional acclimatization and taking in the cultural landscape of a society that has changed very little in the last few hundred years.
The island doesn't have any roads, so the only traffic we had to contend with were braying donkeys, farmers moving from field to field and the occasional European tourist.
For lunch we were treated to a traditional Andean feast, Apthapi. To make Apthapi, the locals dig a hole and line it with square rocks. They then light a fire and heat the rocks and surrounding ground. After removing the embers and ash, layers of potatoes, beans and meat are placed in the hole and covered with dirt. They cook for several hours and eventually produce an extremely tasty combination.
Weary from four plus hours of walking, we returned to our Eco Lodge and spent the afternoon relaxing and taking in the view of distance mountains.
The sunset this evening, like most here, was spectacular. Shimmering rays bounced up off the surface of the lake multiplying the colors, and making for a dramatic closing to the day.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Sunday, May 27th - 11:00 pm PST
What a day of rope work we had under the most amazing back drop of Mount Hunter. We went through different knots and how to build a variety of equalized snow anchors. Then we put it to practice and had everyone take turns going into a deep crevasse and the team would build a pulley system to bring them out. This was an Alaska style crevasse which means it appears bottomless and cold. We had so much fun exploring the glacier up close and personal. The team's rope skills are great but we hope to avoid using the rescue skills as we head out tomorrow to move camp up the
Kahiltna Glacier. After such a big day of playing on and in the glaciers, we all treated ourselves to two hot chocolates after a delicious dinner of tortellini with sun-dried tomatoes.
Goodnight from the glacier!
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Monday, May 28th - 12:20 am PST
It was a perfect day to cruise up to
11K Camp and find a new home. Where most of yesterday was dead calm and pretty warm with strong sun, we had a light but really cold breeze running through camp in the morning. It died right before we started walking and suddenly we were cooking in the solar oven. Just as we were about to explode into flames, the breeze came back, from straight ahead, and we went the direction of ice cubes. We dug quickly into our mountains of clothing and were back in comfort land. Having previewed the terrain yesterday, today was a breeze, and we cruised into camp like a hot egg salad. Now we are nicely installed in our new home for the next few days. It's snowing lightly, and beginning to look a lot like Christmas. Everyone is healthy and psyched. Tomorrow, we chill, then we will keep looking upward.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
On The Map
Monday, May 28th - 12:20 am PST
Perfect is not common in the mountains, but we had it today. The skies were clear and calm for the flight into the Alaska range. The snow was firm which makes the climbing easier and we had warm sunshine with a cool breeze to keep us all just right, not too hot-not too cold. Everyone moved well with their heavy pack and full sleds into our first camp around 7800 ft and enjoyed our first mountain dinner before sliding into our sleeping bags. All in all a great first day on
Denali.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
On The Map
RMI Guides
Geoff Schellens and
Zeb Blais called down this morning at 7:30 am from the summit of
Mt. Rainier. They reported 10 - 15 mph winds, cold conditions, and high team morale. Their plan is to spend about 30 minutes on the summit before beginning their descent back to Camp Muir.
Our time in La Paz was short, as we awoke to another beautiful day here in
Bolivia and made the three-hour drive to Lake Titicaca to take in the scenery and get acclimated to the 13,000’ altitude.
We walked amongst old Incan ruins and small farming villages surrounding the lake. The Bolivian Andes mountains on one side and Perú off in the distance across the lake to the north.
Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world. We took the opportunity to take a couple of ferry rides across the lake to different islands including driving through Copacabana. To get to our final destination for the night on Isla del Sol “Island of the Sun” we took a short boat shuttle to our eco lodge overlooking the lake and surrounding mountains.
The views are incredible as we got to watch the sunset light up the mountains across the lake. As we head to bed the near full moon is glistening on the water. We look forward to another day tomorrow walking around the island and all that it has to offer.
RMI Guide Andy Bond
Last night was chilly once again, but today the sun is out in full and has warmed us up. It's a beautiful day on Denali today, with barely a breath of wind at 14,200' (there is some visible wind up higher on the
West Buttress), and partly cloudy skies.
We're taking a "rest" day today, although it will be somewhat active. After a leisurely breakfast that rolled into brunch, we headed out to the Edge of the World, a dramatic rock outcrop at the far eastern edge of Genet Basin that looks down to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, some 5,000' below.
Next we will be reviewing and practicing fixed rope travel in preparation for moving above our camp. And finally, before dinner, we will work on building snow walls to protect our tents and our kitchen from strong winds. All in all, a good day of active rest.
Tomorrow, weather permitting, we plan to establish a cache high on the West Buttress in order to have enough supplies available to us for our move to high camp. We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
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HI Rich
Cannot get enough of the beautiful shots…hope your cold has left you by now and you are feeling healthy and ready to get this done!
Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:21 pm
Ah yes, “rest” days!! I hope the sore feet (Caleb??) are healing, and that the good weather continues. Happy Birthday to Henry June 2nd - you must be “The Old Man of the Mountain” these days?! Love, Mom xxxx
Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/29/2018 at 10:30 am
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