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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day Hang Out

Monday, May 28th - 10:47 pm PST We had a busy day of nothing. After three big days of moving a lot of gear, it was a perfect day to rest, nap, and take care of sore feet. We had a pleasant pancake brunch, then retired to the tents for naps, movies, and reading. We got out to move a bit this afternoon and refresh our climbing skills, then took that into dinner, and off to bed. Rest days are exhausting after all. Tomorrow we'll get back to work and carry a load of food and gear to 13,500' or so. All for now, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer , Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

HI Rich

Cannot get enough of the beautiful shots…hope your cold has left you by now and you are feeling healthy and ready to get this done!

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:21 pm

Ah yes, “rest” days!! I hope the sore feet (Caleb??) are healing, and that the good weather continues. Happy Birthday to Henry June 2nd - you must be “The Old Man of the Mountain” these days?! Love, Mom xxxx

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/29/2018 at 10:30 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Carry a Cache to 17,200’

Monday, May 28th - 9:48 pm PST Just a quick update: We had beautiful weather today and we took advantage of it by carrying up to 17,200', our future high camp, to establish a cache. It was a long day with beautiful climbing. I'll write more tomorrow as there is still a ton to do at camp and the sun is already behind the ridge. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Keep on keeping on Tom! Ralph and I were chatting about your climb yesterday while we wandered around S.F. with a few other souls around for the weekend. Sending positive vibes and hopefully high pressure systems bringing stable weather for your trip to the summit and back down to the thick air afterwards.  And remember, don’t get stuck with the Turkey tetrazini…blech.

Posted by: Michele on 5/29/2018 at 4:55 pm

Keep it up Alexander and team!!! Proud of you and miss you!

Posted by: Becca R on 5/29/2018 at 4:54 pm


Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team’s Moving Day

Monday, May 28th - 8:10 pm PST We woke up to more sunshine and the smell of bacon on the Kahiltna. After breakfast burritos browned to perfection by Lucas, we packed up camp and took off down Heart Break Hill. Named for its uphill torture on the way back to the airstrip. Everyone reported feeling "great!" after the descent. But then we started the glacier slog with heavy packs and sleds. The next break the team reported feeling "good." After another two hours the team asked, "So, where is camp?" We pulled into a perfect camp in Farine Basin and got to work excavating the glacier and flattening our sleeping nooks. Now it looks perfect for the night. The team is doing well and showed their strength by building camp in good fashion after a long day. If this good weather holds, we'll attempt to climb Farine Peak tomorrow. RMI Guide Christina Dale
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Rick…..Hopefully you won’t have to to use any crevasse rescue skills.  So claustrophobic, so it gives me the chills.  Pictures are so beautiful.  Good luck and prayers on the climb to Farine Peak.  Love, Mom & Dad

Posted by: Marci & Keith Meyer on 5/29/2018 at 12:03 pm


Bolivia: Frank & Team Acclimating on Isla del Sol

Another day of brilliant blue skies greeted us this morning while we sipped coffee and ate a lazy breakfast. The objective for the day was to take a meandering walk along the terraced ridges and slopes of Isla del Sol, gaining some additional acclimatization and taking in the cultural landscape of a society that has changed very little in the last few hundred years. The island doesn't have any roads, so the only traffic we had to contend with were braying donkeys, farmers moving from field to field and the occasional European tourist. For lunch we were treated to a traditional Andean feast, Apthapi. To make Apthapi, the locals dig a hole and line it with square rocks. They then light a fire and heat the rocks and surrounding ground. After removing the embers and ash, layers of potatoes, beans and meat are placed in the hole and covered with dirt. They cook for several hours and eventually produce an extremely tasty combination. Weary from four plus hours of walking, we returned to our Eco Lodge and spent the afternoon relaxing and taking in the view of distance mountains. The sunset this evening, like most here, was spectacular. Shimmering rays bounced up off the surface of the lake multiplying the colors, and making for a dramatic closing to the day. RMI Guide Eric Frank
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Just breathtaking
Never new to much about Bolivia but now know of its natural beauty
Thinking and sending good wishes to all
Julie kiss Stephen for us
Stephen kiss a Julie for us
Love you both
Go team Frank

Posted by: Tina and a John Zabinski on 5/28/2018 at 6:49 pm

It’s been so amazing to see all of this! Hi Dad (Mogens), i love you so much. I’m proud of you.

Love Jules Mary Pono and Malia

Kids think you are pretty darn cool

Posted by: Mary on 5/28/2018 at 5:18 pm


Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Practice Crevasse Rescue

Sunday, May 27th - 11:00 pm PST What a day of rope work we had under the most amazing back drop of Mount Hunter. We went through different knots and how to build a variety of equalized snow anchors. Then we put it to practice and had everyone take turns going into a deep crevasse and the team would build a pulley system to bring them out. This was an Alaska style crevasse which means it appears bottomless and cold. We had so much fun exploring the glacier up close and personal. The team's rope skills are great but we hope to avoid using the rescue skills as we head out tomorrow to move camp up the Kahiltna Glacier. After such a big day of playing on and in the glaciers, we all treated ourselves to two hot chocolates after a delicious dinner of tortellini with sun-dried tomatoes. Goodnight from the glacier! RMI Guide Christina Dale
Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Find New Home at 11,000’

Monday, May 28th - 12:20 am PST It was a perfect day to cruise up to 11K Camp and find a new home. Where most of yesterday was dead calm and pretty warm with strong sun, we had a light but really cold breeze running through camp in the morning. It died right before we started walking and suddenly we were cooking in the solar oven. Just as we were about to explode into flames, the breeze came back, from straight ahead, and we went the direction of ice cubes. We dug quickly into our mountains of clothing and were back in comfort land. Having previewed the terrain yesterday, today was a breeze, and we cruised into camp like a hot egg salad. Now we are nicely installed in our new home for the next few days. It's snowing lightly, and beginning to look a lot like Christmas. Everyone is healthy and psyched. Tomorrow, we chill, then we will keep looking upward. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Seriously took me a minute to find the right blog!

You guys are all smiling and climbing - I know you must be excited for the climb ahead.
Have fun and enjoy every minute!

Love you Rich

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:25 pm

Checking in again. So happy to see the progress. It’s time for Steve to come home… the bachelorette season has started and I know how much he loves the show !! ;)
I’m loving all of the pictures.
Sending my love and best wishes to everyone.
Stay safe,
Misty

Posted by: Misty on 5/28/2018 at 11:08 pm


Denali Expedition: Hailes and Team Fly Onto the Kahiltna Glacier

Monday, May 28th - 12:20 am PST Perfect is not common in the mountains, but we had it today. The skies were clear and calm for the flight into the Alaska range. The snow was firm which makes the climbing easier and we had warm sunshine with a cool breeze to keep us all just right, not too hot-not too cold. Everyone moved well with their heavy pack and full sleds into our first camp around 7800 ft and enjoyed our first mountain dinner before sliding into our sleeping bags. All in all a great first day on Denali. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Where are you guys on Tuesday? So thrilled for you all. Looking due North and thinking of you

Posted by: Mumzie on 5/29/2018 at 9:01 pm

Life sometimes seems so short so “if you are not living on the edge you are taking up too much space”

Posted by: Carolyn mills-meyer on 5/29/2018 at 7:19 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb on the Summit!

RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Zeb Blais called down this morning at 7:30 am from the summit of Mt. Rainier. They reported 10 - 15 mph winds, cold conditions, and high team morale. Their plan is to spend about 30 minutes on the summit before beginning their descent back to Camp Muir.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Congratulations! Get down safely!!
Chris Kopf

Posted by: Chris Kopf on 6/1/2018 at 8:30 am


Bolivia: Frank & Team Explore Along Lake Titicaca

Our time in La Paz was short, as we awoke to another beautiful day here in Bolivia and made the three-hour drive to Lake Titicaca to take in the scenery and get acclimated to the 13,000’ altitude. We walked amongst old Incan ruins and small farming villages surrounding the lake. The Bolivian Andes mountains on one side and Perú off in the distance across the lake to the north. Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world. We took the opportunity to take a couple of ferry rides across the lake to different islands including driving through Copacabana. To get to our final destination for the night on Isla del Sol “Island of the Sun” we took a short boat shuttle to our eco lodge overlooking the lake and surrounding mountains. The views are incredible as we got to watch the sunset light up the mountains across the lake. As we head to bed the near full moon is glistening on the water. We look forward to another day tomorrow walking around the island and all that it has to offer. RMI Guide Andy Bond
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

I’m enjoying learning and seeing the beauty of Bolivia
To All
Enjoy
Be safe

Posted by: Tina /John zabinski on 5/28/2018 at 6:43 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Visit the Edge of the World

Last night was chilly once again, but today the sun is out in full and has warmed us up. It's a beautiful day on Denali today, with barely a breath of wind at 14,200' (there is some visible wind up higher on the West Buttress), and partly cloudy skies. We're taking a "rest" day today, although it will be somewhat active. After a leisurely breakfast that rolled into brunch, we headed out to the Edge of the World, a dramatic rock outcrop at the far eastern edge of Genet Basin that looks down to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, some 5,000' below. Next we will be reviewing and practicing fixed rope travel in preparation for moving above our camp. And finally, before dinner, we will work on building snow walls to protect our tents and our kitchen from strong winds. All in all, a good day of active rest. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we plan to establish a cache high on the West Buttress in order to have enough supplies available to us for our move to high camp. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Riemer!! Lots of good thoughts and vibes from us all :) Good luck from the boys and we’ll see you soon!

Posted by: Layla on 5/28/2018 at 3:02 pm

Hi Alex and Tom,  Hope you are well and not too cold. All that snow makes me go brrr. Lots of rain here. And more to come(the remains of a tropical storm due from Wednesday on). Not much going on. Love you and miss you

Posted by: Pauline Reiher on 5/28/2018 at 2:12 pm

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