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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches 12,500’

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Bryan Mazaika reached the Camp Comfort head-wall at 12,500' and were turned due to weather. Eric reported fresh snow on the route and 15 - 30 mph winds. The team is en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great climb and fantastic views.
Brian, Ross and Abby were real professional guides on the mountain.

Next time I’ll definitely make sure I have more gas in my tank. 
I may have tapped out if we didn’t turn around due to weather, not sure, but each time the slope leveled out I seemed to get a second wind.

Trip was everything expected and then some.

Again, thanks to our guides for a safe trip.

P.S.  I still owe Wesley and Vicky a beer for borrowing the carabiner.

Vicky, if you have the pic you took of me and my son Wes, I’d love to receive that via email, along with other great shots you may have, like the sunrise in the clouds.

Great climbing with you all.

Fred
(the old guy)

 

Posted by: Fred Whiting on 6/11/2019 at 11:00 am

Safe travels on the way down!  Great job guys!

Posted by: Christina Rydbeck on 6/7/2019 at 11:25 am


Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Supplies at 9,300

Thursday, June 6, 2019 - 5:04 PM PT There was a light breeze that rattled the tents last night. The first few nights away from a comfortable bed can be an adjustment. The Team woke to a cold and mostly clear morning. We pumped the brakes a bit to let the air warm up and see what the clouds were doing North of us in the interior. After breakfast the clouds lifted and we launched to take advantage of the clear skies before forecasted thunderstorms and snow arrived. Our route to the cache at 9,300’ takes us up Ski Hill (it’s got the grade of a ski hill) and along the flanks of Kahiltna Dome. The pack loads are heavy but the Team handled it with mostly smiles while taking the time to enjoy the scenic down glacier vistas. We have to cache our food and fuel in the snow so ravens do not dig it up, this typically requires a 1 meter deep hole. We are back in a white out at 7800’ Camp hanging in tents enjoying the solar and having some lunch. Tomorrow we hope to get clear skies and a cold/early start to beat the weather into 11,200’ Camp. Thanks for following along. Everyone is healthy and happy. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Following the blog. Have an amazing time and stay safe, enjoy the adventure
Love marie

Posted by: Marie Pope on 6/7/2019 at 1:55 pm

We’re following you and your team.  What an amazing adventure! The photos are gorgeous.  Stay safe and have a fantastic time!

Posted by: Stephanie Smith on 6/7/2019 at 4:38 am


Mt. Rainier: June 6th Summit!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Jenny Konway reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 9 AM today. Dave reported cool temperatures, and moderate winds. The team spend a short amount of time on the summit before starting their descent. Congratulations to Today's Team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations! So good to hear good news from Mt. Rainier. Enjoy the descent, but step safe:)

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/6/2019 at 10:24 pm

Congratulations team, which route did you take?

Posted by: Shashikiran Konnur Sampathkumar on 6/6/2019 at 11:41 am


Denali Expedition: King & Team Fly to Glacier, Move to Camp 1

Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 10:39 PM PT Wow! We got a little bit of every weather pattern today on our move to Camp 1 located at 7,800’. It was overcast, hot, cold, windy, calm, thunder and we got two different rounds of snow. Back to the beginning of the day, our flight into the Alaska Range was spectacular. After a quick breakfast, K2 Aviation told us to suit up and put boots on, we were going flying. The Team did well with the heavy packs and sleds. We got into camp after seven hours and while the tents are bombproof, the rest is like that pig who made his house out of straw. Tomorrow we hope to carry half our camp up to 10,000’ but we might get weathered in. Regardless we’ll check in and look forward to another day on Denali. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great photo of you all!

Posted by: Susan Rogers on 6/7/2019 at 8:31 am

Good luck y’all! Great shot, and great way to begin your journey. Have and step safe!

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/6/2019 at 10:18 pm


Denali Expedition: Young & Team Able to Make Carry to 13,000’

Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 9:30 PM PT We had it all today. Sunshine, snow, raging snow, more sun, and even some thunderstorms...aka thunder snow. Regardless, our team snuck in our carry to Windy Corner at 13,000’. Progress! It was really nice to make some progress after a couple days of rest here at 11,000' Camp. The forecast is calling for more of the same for remainder of the week, so we’ll do what we’ve been doing everyday, we’ll wake up and stick our heads out of the tent early, and see if the mountain will allow us to make our move to 14,000’ Camp tomorrow. Fingers crossed! RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Mountain Zen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Expect to see some great pictures from the Summit!

Posted by: Thomas Keating on 6/7/2019 at 1:10 pm

Hey Steve congratulations on 14,000 ft camp! Stay strong you got this! Wishing you safety and good weather.

Posted by: Thomas Keating on 6/7/2019 at 1:05 pm


Denali Expedition: Gorum & Team Make an Attempt at the Summit

Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 4:43 PM PT Well, if it’s not one thing it’s another. The wind finally died down for us, and we had a beautiful start to our summit attempt. As we neared Denali pass and the top of the Autobahn, thunder started rumbling in the distance. In a matter of minutes we were underneath the leading edge of a 30,000 foot anvil. We tucked tail and ran back to camp, threading through climbers intent on continuing uphill. We can deal with cold, snow, and wind, but the only cure I know for lightning is distance. All in all it was a good day, considering we are all still healthy and happy. We’re going to regroup this afternoon, consider the forecast, and come up with a plan for the next few days. RMI Guide JM Gorum

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sending you all our love from Idaho, Brit and team! Glad you are all in this together :)

Posted by: Kat on 6/7/2019 at 8:23 am

Good luck Kirk, I hope the weather holds out for you.

Posted by: Tony and Carrie on 6/6/2019 at 8:44 pm


Mt. Rainier: Jones, Ebeling & Teams Unable to Reach Summit

The Four Day Climb Team June 2 - 5 led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones and Chris Ebeling were unable to climb due to high winds. The telemetry at Camp Muir shows average winds speeds in the 50 - 65 mph range from midnight on. The teams will descend to Paradise this morning and return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

SUCH an amazing experience!!!! Even just making it to Muir was life-changing, I’m *definitely* coming back to try again another year :)  Thanks for being such a great team, great guides, and a great expedition overall!!!! -Kristin

Posted by: Kristin Lundine on 6/21/2019 at 12:53 pm

Summit or no summit, it was a great experience.  Terrific group of people and awesome guides. Y’all have inspired me ... hmmm, that Peru seminar looks pretty fab :-)

Posted by: Barry French on 6/6/2019 at 4:22 pm


Denali Expedition: Young & Team Getting Well Rested at 11,000’ Camp

Tuesday, June 4, 2019 - 9:29 PM PT The mountain was surly this morning. Winds were cold and strong when we woke up to attempt a carry to a cache at 13,600’. So we did what all smart climbers would do, and we stayed put and enjoyed warm down sleeping bags and snack food. We put in some serious chill time today, while the mountain continued move the air around until early afternoon. We are definitely feeling rested at this point after two full rest days here at 11,000' Camp, and are looking forward to getting up and attem and moving uphill tomorrow if the improved forecast comes to fruition. Not only are we rested, but we’re also full of macaroni and cheese and bacon from this evenings dinner. Here’s to putting that fuel to work tomorrow! RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team ‘All the Cheese’

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Well hope rest time is over and you are continuing your climb
Stay strong and climb safe

❤️❤️

Posted by: John Zabinski on 6/6/2019 at 5:09 am

Allan!!
We love you so much and we are so proud of you. Keep up the awesome climbing! We loved seeing the map that was posted. Holy cow! That’s a long way! So amazing!!!

Love your little sis, Wayne, Chris and Robert

Posted by: Corrine on 6/5/2019 at 4:44 pm


Denali Expedition: King & Team Arrive Talkeetna, Prepare for Expedition

Tuesday, June 4, 2019 - 6:41 PM PT The Team arrived in Anchorage yesterday and we had a nice drive to the little hamlet of Talkeetna. Today we woke up and got a good breakfast on board before diving into an extensive gear check and packing session. The Team members got to know one another as they sifted through Oreos, nuts, candy and all sorts of other gear we will need to climb this mountain over the next three weeks. Once we were packed and weighed in for our flight there was some down time before dinner. Getting out of Talkeetna is always a bit of a scramble but the process of packing for a big expedition is essential to being organized and prepared for the weather and terrain that lie ahead. Everyone is excited and a little nervous to get started and rightfully so, this really is an experience of a lifetime! 3 weeks in the Alaska Range, traveling among giants to attempt the 20,320’ summit of Denali. We will be checking in daily, thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Enjoying following the blog. Safe trip and have an amazing time love marie xx

Posted by: Marie Pope on 6/6/2019 at 12:48 pm

GoodLuck! to all the team as you start your Alaskan adventure on Denali. Sue and John Rogers.

Posted by: Susan Rogers on 6/5/2019 at 12:15 pm


Denali Expedition: Gorum & Team Keep Waiting The Winds Out

Tuesday, June 4, 2019 - 6:16 PM PT Last night was probably the least comfortable night of the trip. We had strong gusts throughout the night that rattled our tents, and kept us all far from sleep. We spent the morning hiding from the cold and sipping on hot drinks. The winds were too high to make a summit attempt. Eventually things calmed down, and we ventured forth into the world. It has turned into quite a nice day up here, with winds near the summit diminishing as well. We’ve had some amazing views looking down at our previous camps and the Kahiltna glacier winding out of sight. The forecast looks promising for tomorrow. Once again, we’ll wake up in the morning and see what the mountain gives us. RMI Guide JM Gorum

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Holding you all in warm hug, especially Mogens! I know this mountain has already gifted you all, looking forward to the stories!
Sally

Posted by: Sally on 6/6/2019 at 9:08 am

We’re all in for your humble conquest of goals.  Onward and upward, to the summit… Great care!! Scott

Posted by: scott otoole on 6/5/2019 at 1:32 pm

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