June 19, 2017Denali remains unseasonably cold for June. This actually works in our favor for the lower camps. The cold days allow us to wake up a little later to move camps or cache before the sun comes out and bakes us.
We successfully completed our mission for the day, which was to go back to our last camp and retrieve some food and gear that we left cached there. We couldn't have asked for better travel conditions with perfect weather and a great path stomped through the deep snow. We completed our task with enough time for second breakfast and an afternoon nap. This mountaineering stuff is rough!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 19, 2017 9:06 pm PST
Conditions were perfect at 1 AM for beginning an early morning transit of the Kahiltna Glacier. Skies were clear and the snow surface was beginning to freeze good and hard -just the way we like it for traveling crevassed terrain with heavy packs and sleds. We got stoves going and began to dress for success. The team set out at precisely 4AM and marched down the SE Fork of the Kahiltna to its junction with the main glacier -we banged a right turn and started our climb. The glacier didn't have much good snow from the winter, so plenty of crevasses were exposed and needed crossing, but with the good freeze, the crossings were easy and uneventful. We saw ample evidence of climbers having come through in soggy, hot and heavy conditions, poking legs and bodies into the dark cold depths of the glacier. We took hourly rest breaks and accomplished our move in just under five hours total, pulling into 7800 ft just before 9. Then in calm sunshine, we set to work building camp. T
Tents went up and once all work was finished, we dove in for naps, escaping the ridiculously intense midday sun. By early evening it was tolerable outside once again and we met for dinner under the shelter of our dining tent. Forecasts for the day had called pretty definitively for new falling snow, but our reality was a pleasant summer day. We'll gladly take another day of this "storm".
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Christina Dale led the Five Day Summit Climb June 15-19 on Mt. Rainier. The team ascended to Camp Muir on Saturday and spent the following day training at Camp Muir. This morning they made their summit attempt but due to new snow over the last few days the conditions today did not allow their team to summit. They have safely returned to Camp Muir. They will repack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise later today.
The June 16 - 19 Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Paul Rachele was forced to turn around at 12,500' due to route conditions. Several days of poor weather and snow accumulation provided difficult climbing conditions for today's team. They have returned safely to Camp Muir and will continue their descent to Paradise this afternoon.
A van ride, an airplane ride, another van ride, and we're in Cheget. Super smooth sailing through our travels today, ski bags and all. Yuri is the local Russian guide who will be joining us on Mt. Elbrus, and he greeted us with a warm reception at the airport in Mineralyne Vody. We're excited to finally be in the mountains.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
June 18, 2017
It was overcast and gray in Talkeetna this morning when the team got in for a 7AM breakfast, but we were optimistic in any case. Things had brightened just a bit by the time we assembled in the K2 hangar, but the word was passed that fog on the glacier surface would keep planes out of Basecamp initially. We drank coffee and fidgeted with our gear for a bit. Then we loaded the planes. Then we fidgeted a bit more. Then it was time to fly and we got our boots on. We hastily texted friends and loved ones as our two big beautiful De Havilland Otters taxied out to the runway. We were off! But then the fog came back over Basecamp and we did a u turn and landed in Talkeetna. We texted, we drank more coffee and then we loaded up for real. The flight in got markedly more dramatic and spectacular as we entered the Alaska Range. Before we knew it, we were setting down perfectly on skis on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. There were about a hundred climbers assembled, ready to fly home and so it was a busy scene. We were very pleased to shake hands and give hugs to the two RMI teams finishing their adventures with Jake Beren and Tyler Jones. Then we set to building camp and reviewing safety procedures for travel on the lower glaciers. We'd stop every now and then to stare in wide eyed wonder at massive Mt Foraker and vertical Mt Hunter, towering over us. Dinner, some story telling and some packing completed our big day. We turned in at 8 PM with the sun nowhere remotely even close to the horizon. We'll get up early -weather permitting- and make our move in the cool of morning when the glacier surface is firmer and safer.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
June 18, 2017
Well folks, I'm happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I'd be lying if I said it didn't make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000' and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We're now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600' to retrieve the rest of our belongings.
Good night from Camp 3!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Awesome reading about your daily travels. Stay safe (and thinking about Lance and Caleb on this journey) :)
Posted by: Tina Kyllonen on 6/20/2017 at 9:31 am
Glo, what a wonderful father day present to hear your voice from Denali, the great one! Our thoughts and prayers are with you as your journey continues, be safe, love u, pa
The Four Day Summit Climb team for June 15 - 18, 2017 was unable to make a summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning due to inclement weather. The team will descend to Paradise this afternoon and return to Rainier BaseCamp.
June 18, 2017
Thick air and mild temps surround the team at this moment. A different story just a few hours ago when we were standing on the summit of Kilimanjaro. We are all settled in here at the 10,000' Mweka camp the last stop before we leave Kilimanjaro National Park tomorrow. We started the climb around midnight under clear skies and a mild breeze . It was pretty cold the last couple of stretches and a few of the team climbed with their down parkas on which we usually put on at our breaks and take off when climbing. Seven hours later we were on the summit of Kilimanjaro, the Roof of Africa, with beautiful weather and a very elated team. It's a big climb and a long descend. We didn't arrive to this camp till after 3 pm with a tired team. Everyone did great and the stories are already starting to fly. I am going to roust the napping guys soon so we can all enjoy another great meal which is currently getting set up in the dining tent. All is well on the hill.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Please listen to the audio link below from the team calling from the summit of Kilimanjaro.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker and team call from the summit of Kilimanjaro with Father's day greetings.
Yesterday we converged at baggage carousel #1 in the Anchorage airport... having come from far and wide to form our Denali climbing team. A commute with Denali Overland and our driver Bill brought us into Talkeetna, Alaska by 9 PM. Today we got down to brass tacks and started preparing seriously to go on the mountain. It wasn't all drudgery as our first official team meeting was conducted over a fine Roadhouse breakfast with plenty of good hot coffee. Introductions were completed in time for our mandatory National Park Service Orientation Slideshow at the Talkeetna Ranger Station. We were reminded that it had been a tough season for weather on Denali, with only 30% of climbers making the summit so far. Indeed, we'd begun the day walking the streets in steady rain. By midday when we headed for the K2 Aviation hangar, things were beginning to look up. We conducted a thorough check of each climbers gear and clothing as big stretches of blue sky too over. We kept looking toward the Range as we went through sorting tents and ropes and food for the group, but the big peaks stayed well-disguised in the murk and cloud. By early evening the loads were in order and weighed for hefting into airplanes. The work done, we headed back into downtown Talkeetna for dinner at the bustling Twister Creek. It is high season for tourism in Alaska. We all relaxed a little and made final preparations for "getting on" in the morning. Getting on a plane, getting on a glacier, and getting on a climb.
With a little more improvement in the weather, we'll be on our way.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Good weather and safe travels!!!
Posted by: Christina perez on 6/19/2017 at 9:45 pm
Hi Hans, Anja, all climbers and guides,
I try to send you sunny weather from Germany!!!
Good luck and full energy for all members…
Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/19/2017 at 11:18 am
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