RMI Expeditions Blog

The itinerary of this Aconcagua climb has been anything but ordinary. The weather saw to that ever since we first tried to move to Camp 1 and promptly had to do an about-face back to Basecamp. Since that day, the guides have had to stay on their toes, rearranging, pivoting, and scraping together a plan that would give us the best shot for the summit. Well, this group's ability to adapt to the changing circumstances on a moments notice may just payoff. Today was originally our day to summit, but the wind had other ideas. So now we are once again resting, eating, and acclimatizing at Camp 2. However, this means that tonight is our night. The last night in fact! The wind and temperatures look ideal for a successful summit attempt. But don’t get excited for us just yet, having had to push the summit day back as far as possible to improve our chances with the weather means tomorrow will be a monster of a day. We will launch our summit attempt from Camp 2 instead of high camp, a move not possible with any other group I’ve climbed this mountain with. If we are successful and make it to the top, we then must head back down to Camp 2, pick up the gear the porters didn’t carry down and continue downhill all the way back to Basecamp! A summit to Basecamp in a day itinerary is no small feat, but having seen how well prepared these climbers are, I firmly believe they can pull it of in good style. Everyone one of them trained hard and came prepared for a difficult climb. Tomorrow will be extremely hard, but if we can pull it off, it will make one hell of a story! Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

On Friday, We left the warmth and creature comforts of Puebla at 8am and drove two hours to the little town of Tlachichuca where we met up with the Servimont crew at the climbers hostel, quickly packed, ate, and hoped in the back of 4x4 vehicles to make the long and slow crawl up the primitive trails to Piedre Grande, or Orizaba High Camp just around 14,000'. We were able to set up a good camp despite intermittent sleet and moderate winds with gusts of 25-30mph. Our cook Rudolpho treated us to some warm quesadillas and fajita fixings. Hydrated and bellies full we gott horizontal and to try to rest before our long summit bid early in the morning.

We awoke to a brisk, partially cloudy night with some early morning sleet and fired stoves at 11pm. After a good Alpine mocha made from instant coffee and hot cocoa, we booted up and left our camp at Piedra Grande walking up through a snow covered rocky approach to the aptly named “Labrynth” of large boulders and glacial erratics left behind some millennia prior. As we stepped onto the Jampa Glacier, we were met with a fiercely cold and sustained wind out of the southwest, gusting at 35mph. The light recent snow made for good walking on the otherwise icy steeps that are common to the upper Jampa route. After many long and hard hours, with only intermittent morning sunshine, the entire team reached the summit of Orizaba just before 0900.  With their hearts full and bodies tired, the team returned back to our climbers hostel in Tlachichuca and were greeted by the friendly staff of Dr. Reyes with hot showers, a warm meal, and well deserved cold beverages. An early night was in order for our long day of travels home with stories and laughter to share with loved ones and friends.

Signing out!

RMI Guide Alan Davis

Today we rested once again. Our plan had been to move to high camp today, but once again our plans were changed due to the longest stretch of windy weather seen on this mountain in the month of January. Fortunately, the winds are forecasted to drop significantly over the next few days which is lucky for us since we only have the next two days to pull off a summit. Everyone is doing well and adjusting to the altitude perfectly. By the time we pull the trigger on a summit attempt I expect we will be so well acclimatized that we will all sprint to the top of this mountain. All of you at home send us some good vibes and cross your fingers that the winds give the window we need to stand on the top of South America!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

Yesterday we traveled south through the town of Ambato, where we learned what a 50cm burrito looks like.  Despite an exact measurement it’s still hard to imagine.  Following a comical lunch we drove through the park, Reserva Producción de Fauna Chimborazo, and continued to La Estrella de Chimborazo where we had a quiet night with delicious food and beautiful views of Chimborazo’s grand south face.

We awoke to a foggy morning and continued to relax in preparation for a difficult 24 hours.  Some members of the team practiced crevasse rescue on the porch while other’s just chilled out, enjoying the views and some local wildlife.

In the afternoon we made the two hour trek to high camp and are settled in at our highest sleeping altitude - 17,400’.  Tonight we will get an alpine start and hope for good weather on our summit attempt!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Today we broke down camp, said goodbye to the lovely Basecamp staff and began our climb to Camp 1 for the final time. The climb was easy as the trail was familiar and the weather was sunshine and light winds. Once we arrived we made quick work of setting up camp and fortifying our tent anchors with rocks due to the strong nightly winds we knew would be coming. After a delicious meal of mountain Pad Thai everyone went back to their tents to try to get some sleep at 16,000 feet. Tomorrow we move to Camp 2!

RMI Guide Walter Hailes

Another rest day for the Aconcagua summit hopefuls. Unlike other more snow covered mountains, there is a lot of down time on Aconcagua. Some love the rest, others tend to go stir crazy with cabin fever. At least today the sun is shining and the wind is light allowing for ample time to breath deep and enjoy the views outside of our tents. The weather trend still looks favourable for a Sunday summit attempt. Hopefully the wind holds long enough for us to tag the top.

RMI Guide Nick Scott

After a much need night of sleep in sheets and a good shower, we woke to the sultry sounds of automobiles, street vendors, university students, and music in the colorful city of Puebla. It always feels like going back in time walking up to buildings and streets built by skilled hands several millennia ago. We grubbed on a good breakfast of mole poblano and cafe con leche, then dispersed to make the most of our day out of synthetic apparel and climbing boots and proudly donned our flip flops with cotton. Some of us toured a world renown ceramic factory while others wandered the bright Zocola after getting a massage to work out the kinks from the previous climb. As usual the colonial hamlet of Puebla did not disappoint, and we found ourselves basking in the glow of a rest day earned. 

RMI Guide Alan Davis

We have enjoyed our time at Aconcagua Base Camp these last few days. The cooks, porters and all the staff are constantly working to make our stay comfortable and doing it with the biggest smiles imaginable. We are ready to climb higher but will miss being so well taken care of.
We did get a dusting of snow today that made the mountain beautiful. Thankfully the weather forecast is to improve as we climb higher over the next few days.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes

Last night we lied in bed awaiting an 11pm wakeup for a Cotopaxi summit attempt.  But the winds picked up and the roof could be heard shaking and whistling all night.  At the sound of my first alarm, myself and the other guides went outside to find high winds and a sideways drizzle.  We then went on shifts checking every 30 minutes and hoping for improvement, but to no avail.  By 3am we decided to call it and everyone was able to sleep in.  The crew was certainly disappointed but still in good spirits.  What helped was seeing all the people who did attempt last night return soaked and covered in a layer of half inch ice, having failed to make it to the summit.  It was truly a sight to see.

After departing the hut we made the short drive out of the park and are enjoying a wonderful evening at La Cienega, one of the finest haciendas in Ecuador.  We took advantage of a sunny afternoon to learn some rope skills and are looking forward to the rest of the evening in this beautiful and historic hacienda.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Today was the day! The day we would move from Basecamp straight to Camp 2, or Nido de Condores as it is officially called here. Unfortunately, the wind still did not want to cooperate and the mountain was still going to make us work for every foot of elevation gain. We walked up hill through snow, sleet, grapple, and wind gusts that made us wobble. When the wind came, we put our heads down and persevered making great time to our gear cache at Camp 1. After adding some “training weight” to our packs we turned towards Camp 2, walking into more and more wind and snow. Aconcagua really didn’t want this trip to be an easy one, not that any of them are ever easy. After 5 1/2 hours and 4000 feet of elevation gain we strolled into camp feeling accomplished, but tired and of course very hungry. By the time we put up our tents the wind was giving us a break, but the snow how now doubled its efforts and dropping 6-7 inches of fluffy powder on us in a couple hours. We were all happy to be warm and cozy in our tents watching the snow fall and waiting for dinner to help warm our bellies. Once again, everyone on this team absolutely styled an incredibly difficult day. Arriving in camp smiling and feeling well despite the thin air here at 18,500 feet. Tomorrow is a rest day and hopefully a sunny one at that!

RMI Guide Nick Scott