RMI Expeditions Blog
Hello from the Ishinca Valley in the beautiful Cordillera Blanca! Oh boy, what a treat it is to finally be in the mountains after 4 days in and around town. It is a beautiful setting here at Ishinca Base Camp, nestled between massive snow and ice covered giants at 14,400’. The peaks around us soar up to 20,000’ and it’s a sight to behold.
It took us about 4 hours to make the move here from the trail head. We donned day packs after leaving the bulk of our weight with the donkeys and arrieros, and enjoyed a light weight walk all the way in under sunny skies. Soon after setting up camp, the afternoon rains reared their ugly heads, but luckily we were already warm and dry in our tents.
Tonight, believe it or not, we were treated to a trout dinner with baby potatoes, chicken soup, and jello. We live our best lives here in Peru, and our cook Emilio is a huge part of that.
Tomorrow, we’ll take’er easy. A little walking, a little technical training, and maybe even some napping. We’ll fill you in tomorrow. Until then, thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Robby Young and Team ‘Trucha’
PS - Spanish word of the day is Sombra (Shade)
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Huascaran
Elevation: 10,000'
Good evening from Huaraz. The team is spending a couple rest days in town after our acclimatization phase on Yannapacha and Chopicalqui. This phase was, on its own, a legit climbing objective with high and technical peaks where our team stepped it up and proved to be a very fit, mentally tough and a determined one. We sure are now acclimatized and ready for the highest peak on Earth located in between the tropics, Huascaran. Follow along for the second half of our expedition starting tomorrow.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
We left Cusco at 5 am and headed for the small village if Mollepata. Our drive took us down a spectacular winding highway from the high Andean steppe into a heavily forested valley. With rain hitting the windshield we could see fresh snow up around 18,000’ when the clouds would break. Once our shuttle arrived at Soraypampa we ate a light breakfast and began hiking. The day was a mix of sun, wind, rain, snow and a little bit of “just right”. The Team got to use all their layers today and we didn’t envy the less prepared “backpackers” who had ponchos and jeans on.
We are having a great time and enjoyed some views of Nevado Salkantay 20,452’ until the weather rolled in. The hike follows a narrowing valley and eventually parallels an enormous glacial moraine. The good eating has already begun, trout, rice and potato soup for lunch; we get spoiled on these programs. Our local staff and horseman are extremely nice and hardworking. Thanks for following along. We will check in tomorrow after going over the 16,000’ Incachiriaska Pass.
RMI Guide Mike King
Miss you all and am thinking of you! I went to the doctor today - my wrist is fine, but I have a raging respiratory infection. Spent the day in bed with meds! I made the right decision to stay behind - I’m coughing like a 2-pack a day smoker!
Posted by: Dori on 7/18/2019 at 8:13 pm
Keep up the good work!!
It must have been Chad wearing jeans:)
Eddie
Posted by: Eddie Leonard on 7/17/2019 at 7:29 pm
The team is doing well after a good nights rest and waking up to nice weather this morning. Then we had a nice big breakfast in the hotel, and loaded up all our climbing gear and drove to the base of Mt. Elbrus. Once there we took advantage of the 3 gondolas, and a short snowcat ride to reach our new home for the next few days.
It's rather comfortable up here, as our outfitter has taken a few shipping containers and converted them into simple bunk rooms some for sleeping and some set up as dinning rooms.
Once we got settled into our new home we headed uphill on another acclimatizing hike and reached just over 14'000 before returning to camp where our wonderful cook Dasha had a nice hot lunch waiting for us.
We spent the remaining of the afternoon relaxing around camp and enjoying the views of the Caucasus mountain range which are pretty amazing since we are camped out at just over 12'500ft.
Dasha has cooked up a delicious Russian meal with plenty of borscht and potatoes that filled us up. Everyone is doing well and ready for a little sleep.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and team
On The Map
Greetings from 10,000' Machame Camp on Kilimanjaro!
We had a nice departure from the our lodge this morning. We left after a good nights rest and great breakfast. After checking in at the Kilimanjaro National Park Gate, we all put on our rain gear and worked our way up to camp. It was not the nicest of days on the trail with hard rain for the first half and light rain on the second half. We did the best we could but all of the team arrived at Machame Camp pretty wet. Lucky for us, amp was all set up so a quick change, snacks, hot drinks and dinner has us all in good shape. It may be wet out but it hasn't damped or spirits.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Hi Ali. Thinking of you and very proud! Can’t wait to hear all about it.
Posted by: Rob Nicki Elle on 7/17/2019 at 7:59 pm
I’m so happy for my Prime Family living their best life! Enjoy your adventure!
Posted by: Mechale on 7/17/2019 at 6:27 pm
Hello, this is Eric Frank, good afternoon. I'm calling from the summit of Malchin Peak, here in Mongolia 13,200'. It is a perfect day up here, our whole team is sitting on top, beautiful weather, light winds just enjoying the view of all the mountains surrounding us. So this is the first peak of the trip, hopefully not the last. Thank you so much for following along.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Posted by: Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Greetings!
Another beautiful day here in Huaraz City! We woke up early this morning with one final acclimatization day scheduled here in town. We took it up a notch, however, and we shuttled up to the Lake Churup Trailhead at the foot of some of the higher peaks outside of Huaraz. A couple hours later, we were relaxing lakeside at one of the most beautiful lakes in the Range. Words don’t do it justice, so we sent pics!
This afternoon, we were back in town putting the finishing touches on our packing and our normal lives before we head into the mountains for a week. First stop, the Ishinca Valley. We have some training planned, as well as a couple climbs...not to mention some delicious eating from our cooks up there! We’ll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Robby Young and Team ‘No Swimming’
Lookin’ good, T-bone! Can’t wait to see you all get after it in the mountains a bit. I’m very jealous…
Posted by: Rooster on 7/18/2019 at 8:27 am
Beautiful place! Can’t wait to read the daily posts.
Posted by: Bridget Spear on 7/17/2019 at 6:03 pm
RMI Guide Brent Okita and Four Day Climb July 14 - 17 climbed to 13,300' this morning before poor weather and conditions forced them to turn around. The group will continue their descent to Paradise later this morning.
Best Wishes to you My Friend
Posted by: James ( Spud) on 7/27/2019 at 12:22 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 8,816'
Summit!
RMI Guides Mike Walter and Nick Scott just completed a successful trip in the North Cascades. The team climbed the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak and the Quien Sabe Glacier Route of Sahale Mountain. Mike reported that all climbers reached the summit of both peaks!
Way to go climbers!
Posted by:
Categories: 50 Years of Climbing
1984: RMI climber Mele Mason filming a rope team on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier with a Sony Betacam prototype.
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In honor of our 50th Anniversary, we are featuring stories of first climbs. Stories from guides and stories from climbers. Today we are excited to share Mele Mason’s story of her first climb: Mt. Rainier in 1984 for her work at KIRO-TV in Seattle, WA. Find out more about having your first climb featured on our blog!
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I was a video photo-journalist at KIRO-TV in 1984. I had moved to Seattle, WA from my hometown of Omaha, NE. Although I frequently visited cousins in Colorado and participated in some mountain hikes, my experience with altitude and glacial climbing was next to nothing.
1984: Former RMI Guide Phil Ershler (center) talks to climbers as Mele Mason (far left) watches.
While working in Seattle, I would marvel at the sight of Mt. Rainier whenever the “Mountain was Out!” I dreamed of climbing and documenting the climb. Reporter Karen O’Leary and I contacted Lou Whittaker of RMI to find out how we could arrange to shoot a story of a typical RMI climb. Lou was very helpful, and set up a date for us to climb with an RMI group, let by Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Gary Talcott, and Phursumba Sherpa.
1984: Mele Mason with the crew on Mt. Rainier.
In 1984, most news stations were still using tube video cameras, which were tethered to a separate ¾ inch tape recorder deck. The gear was heavy and cumbersome. Sony had recently come out with a new Betacam, which incorporated the camera and deck into one shoulder mounted camera weighing in at about 25 pounds with battery. Sony was excited about being a part of the first Betacam shot story on climbing Mt. Rainier, so they lent me a prototype camera for the climb.
I spent two months training on Mount Si and other peaks close to Seattle, read up on all the ways one could die on the mountain (HAPE, avalanche, rock slide, lightning strike, etc.). For my training day, Lou Whittaker and Phursumba Sherpa took me up to the Muir Snowfield to teach our group how to use crampons, ice axes, ropes and harnesses. They proceeded to throw us down the snowy hill feet first, head first, on belly, on back, to make sure we were able to self-arrest before sliding down the entire hill.
1984: Former RMI Guide Gary Talcott watches as Mele Mason films on Mt. Rainier.
The actual climb was actually a life changer for me. Not only was it the most difficult thing I had ever accomplished, but the people I met and the video I produced opened many doors for me, including more climbs in the Himalaya, Karakoram and Mount Kilimanjaro. My video piece won a NATAS (National Academy of Television Arts & Sciences) Emmy for best produced feature short in 1984. We were blessed with fine weather. Gary Talcott packed my enormous camera, I carried batteries and tripod, and Jeanine Wieholt Moore brought along extra gear. I had not acclimated properly coming straight from Seattle, so as we got above Camp Muir, the nausea started in. Fortunately every time I stopped to set up the tripod and camera, the sickness would abate. We were not allowed to slow up the other climbers, so Gary, Jeanine and I would have to start out earlier than the other climbers, set up, shoot the climbers, and then pack up and go on ahead.
I have climbed Mt. Rainier twice more, and each time I proclaim that it is the most difficult thing I’ve ever done, but each time the joy and satisfaction and camaraderie that I feel as I walk into the bar at the Paradise Inn, sit my filthy self down and enjoy a frothy cold beer are some of my favorite memories to this day.
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1984: Former RMI Guide Phil Ershler (center) talks to climbers as Mele Mason (far left) watches.
While working in Seattle, I would marvel at the sight of Mt. Rainier whenever the “Mountain was Out!” I dreamed of climbing and documenting the climb. Reporter Karen O’Leary and I contacted Lou Whittaker of RMI to find out how we could arrange to shoot a story of a typical RMI climb. Lou was very helpful, and set up a date for us to climb with an RMI group, let by Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Gary Talcott, and Phursumba Sherpa.
1984: Mele Mason with the crew on Mt. Rainier.
In 1984, most news stations were still using tube video cameras, which were tethered to a separate ¾ inch tape recorder deck. The gear was heavy and cumbersome. Sony had recently come out with a new Betacam, which incorporated the camera and deck into one shoulder mounted camera weighing in at about 25 pounds with battery. Sony was excited about being a part of the first Betacam shot story on climbing Mt. Rainier, so they lent me a prototype camera for the climb.
I spent two months training on Mount Si and other peaks close to Seattle, read up on all the ways one could die on the mountain (HAPE, avalanche, rock slide, lightning strike, etc.). For my training day, Lou Whittaker and Phursumba Sherpa took me up to the Muir Snowfield to teach our group how to use crampons, ice axes, ropes and harnesses. They proceeded to throw us down the snowy hill feet first, head first, on belly, on back, to make sure we were able to self-arrest before sliding down the entire hill.
1984: Former RMI Guide Gary Talcott watches as Mele Mason films on Mt. Rainier.
The actual climb was actually a life changer for me. Not only was it the most difficult thing I had ever accomplished, but the people I met and the video I produced opened many doors for me, including more climbs in the Himalaya, Karakoram and Mount Kilimanjaro. My video piece won a NATAS (National Academy of Television Arts & Sciences) Emmy for best produced feature short in 1984. We were blessed with fine weather. Gary Talcott packed my enormous camera, I carried batteries and tripod, and Jeanine Wieholt Moore brought along extra gear. I had not acclimated properly coming straight from Seattle, so as we got above Camp Muir, the nausea started in. Fortunately every time I stopped to set up the tripod and camera, the sickness would abate. We were not allowed to slow up the other climbers, so Gary, Jeanine and I would have to start out earlier than the other climbers, set up, shoot the climbers, and then pack up and go on ahead.
I have climbed Mt. Rainier twice more, and each time I proclaim that it is the most difficult thing I’ve ever done, but each time the joy and satisfaction and camaraderie that I feel as I walk into the bar at the Paradise Inn, sit my filthy self down and enjoy a frothy cold beer are some of my favorite memories to this day.
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We’re really enjoying these posts! Sending best wishes for great hiking and beautiful weather. Go, Ben!
Posted by: Barbara W on 7/18/2019 at 6:47 pm
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