RMI Expeditions Blog
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Categories: 50 Years of Climbing
1984: RMI climber Mele Mason filming a rope team on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier with a Sony Betacam prototype.
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In honor of our 50th Anniversary, we are featuring stories of first climbs. Stories from guides and stories from climbers. Today we are excited to share Mele Mason’s story of her first climb: Mt. Rainier in 1984 for her work at KIRO-TV in Seattle, WA. Find out more about having your first climb featured on our blog!
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I was a video photo-journalist at KIRO-TV in 1984. I had moved to Seattle, WA from my hometown of Omaha, NE. Although I frequently visited cousins in Colorado and participated in some mountain hikes, my experience with altitude and glacial climbing was next to nothing.
1984: Former RMI Guide Phil Ershler (center) talks to climbers as Mele Mason (far left) watches.
While working in Seattle, I would marvel at the sight of Mt. Rainier whenever the “Mountain was Out!” I dreamed of climbing and documenting the climb. Reporter Karen O’Leary and I contacted Lou Whittaker of RMI to find out how we could arrange to shoot a story of a typical RMI climb. Lou was very helpful, and set up a date for us to climb with an RMI group, let by Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Gary Talcott, and Phursumba Sherpa.
1984: Mele Mason with the crew on Mt. Rainier.
In 1984, most news stations were still using tube video cameras, which were tethered to a separate ¾ inch tape recorder deck. The gear was heavy and cumbersome. Sony had recently come out with a new Betacam, which incorporated the camera and deck into one shoulder mounted camera weighing in at about 25 pounds with battery. Sony was excited about being a part of the first Betacam shot story on climbing Mt. Rainier, so they lent me a prototype camera for the climb.
I spent two months training on Mount Si and other peaks close to Seattle, read up on all the ways one could die on the mountain (HAPE, avalanche, rock slide, lightning strike, etc.). For my training day, Lou Whittaker and Phursumba Sherpa took me up to the Muir Snowfield to teach our group how to use crampons, ice axes, ropes and harnesses. They proceeded to throw us down the snowy hill feet first, head first, on belly, on back, to make sure we were able to self-arrest before sliding down the entire hill.
1984: Former RMI Guide Gary Talcott watches as Mele Mason films on Mt. Rainier.
The actual climb was actually a life changer for me. Not only was it the most difficult thing I had ever accomplished, but the people I met and the video I produced opened many doors for me, including more climbs in the Himalaya, Karakoram and Mount Kilimanjaro. My video piece won a NATAS (National Academy of Television Arts & Sciences) Emmy for best produced feature short in 1984. We were blessed with fine weather. Gary Talcott packed my enormous camera, I carried batteries and tripod, and Jeanine Wieholt Moore brought along extra gear. I had not acclimated properly coming straight from Seattle, so as we got above Camp Muir, the nausea started in. Fortunately every time I stopped to set up the tripod and camera, the sickness would abate. We were not allowed to slow up the other climbers, so Gary, Jeanine and I would have to start out earlier than the other climbers, set up, shoot the climbers, and then pack up and go on ahead.
I have climbed Mt. Rainier twice more, and each time I proclaim that it is the most difficult thing I’ve ever done, but each time the joy and satisfaction and camaraderie that I feel as I walk into the bar at the Paradise Inn, sit my filthy self down and enjoy a frothy cold beer are some of my favorite memories to this day.
1984: Former RMI Guide Phil Ershler (center) talks to climbers as Mele Mason (far left) watches.
While working in Seattle, I would marvel at the sight of Mt. Rainier whenever the “Mountain was Out!” I dreamed of climbing and documenting the climb. Reporter Karen O’Leary and I contacted Lou Whittaker of RMI to find out how we could arrange to shoot a story of a typical RMI climb. Lou was very helpful, and set up a date for us to climb with an RMI group, let by Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Gary Talcott, and Phursumba Sherpa.
1984: Mele Mason with the crew on Mt. Rainier.
In 1984, most news stations were still using tube video cameras, which were tethered to a separate ¾ inch tape recorder deck. The gear was heavy and cumbersome. Sony had recently come out with a new Betacam, which incorporated the camera and deck into one shoulder mounted camera weighing in at about 25 pounds with battery. Sony was excited about being a part of the first Betacam shot story on climbing Mt. Rainier, so they lent me a prototype camera for the climb.
I spent two months training on Mount Si and other peaks close to Seattle, read up on all the ways one could die on the mountain (HAPE, avalanche, rock slide, lightning strike, etc.). For my training day, Lou Whittaker and Phursumba Sherpa took me up to the Muir Snowfield to teach our group how to use crampons, ice axes, ropes and harnesses. They proceeded to throw us down the snowy hill feet first, head first, on belly, on back, to make sure we were able to self-arrest before sliding down the entire hill.
1984: Former RMI Guide Gary Talcott watches as Mele Mason films on Mt. Rainier.
The actual climb was actually a life changer for me. Not only was it the most difficult thing I had ever accomplished, but the people I met and the video I produced opened many doors for me, including more climbs in the Himalaya, Karakoram and Mount Kilimanjaro. My video piece won a NATAS (National Academy of Television Arts & Sciences) Emmy for best produced feature short in 1984. We were blessed with fine weather. Gary Talcott packed my enormous camera, I carried batteries and tripod, and Jeanine Wieholt Moore brought along extra gear. I had not acclimated properly coming straight from Seattle, so as we got above Camp Muir, the nausea started in. Fortunately every time I stopped to set up the tripod and camera, the sickness would abate. We were not allowed to slow up the other climbers, so Gary, Jeanine and I would have to start out earlier than the other climbers, set up, shoot the climbers, and then pack up and go on ahead.
I have climbed Mt. Rainier twice more, and each time I proclaim that it is the most difficult thing I’ve ever done, but each time the joy and satisfaction and camaraderie that I feel as I walk into the bar at the Paradise Inn, sit my filthy self down and enjoy a frothy cold beer are some of my favorite memories to this day.
We had a nice relaxing start to the day with a traditional Russian breakfast of porridge, eggs and bread. We then made our way to the local ski lifts to help give us a jump start on our acclimatization hike. I didn't hear a single complaint about riding up 1,500' before we started our hike to nearly the top of a local peak called Cheget.
It was a bit cloudy today so we didn’t have the amazing views that we had hoped for, but it was beautiful nonetheless. Normally we get to hike to the top of the peak but, being so close to the border with Georgia, the Russian military had the upper part closed to climbers. Regardless, we enjoyed the views and stretching our legs and lungs a bit.
After our hike we made back to town relatively quickly thanks to the ski lifts, where we had a hot lunch waiting on us. After lunch we dropped off our gear and made a quick stop to pick up a few extra items and did a little exploring on our own. We wrapped up the evening with another nice home cooked meal here provided by our ever so gracious local outfitter.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and team
After our hike we made back to town relatively quickly thanks to the ski lifts, where we had a hot lunch waiting on us. After lunch we dropped off our gear and made a quick stop to pick up a few extra items and did a little exploring on our own. We wrapped up the evening with another nice home cooked meal here provided by our ever so gracious local outfitter.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and team
On The Map
Posted by: Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
All is well here in Tanzania as the team arrived late last night after some very long flights. All checked luggage showing up always a bonus. A short drive to our lodge that is not to far from the base of Kilimanjaro. The team enjoyed a nice dinner upon arrival then headed for bed as the time zone change and all the travel will take it out of even the toughest of mountain climbers.
A great job done by all to recharge the battery. After a nice relaxing morning we had a briefing about logistic and a gear check just to make sure nothing missing from our kits.
Everybody passed with flying colors.
The remainder of the day was spent getting our gear packed up, exploring the grounds of our lodge, which is incredibly peaceful and our first African animal sightings being some resident monkeys and small antelope.
We wrapped up the evening with another delicious meal. Everyone is doing well and excited to hit the trail tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
You all are AMAZING! I hope you’re having the best time ever!
Posted by: Keri on 7/19/2019 at 6:23 pm
You all are amazing. Have a great hike and stay safe. I cant wait to see pictures.
Posted by: Susie Yonkers on 7/17/2019 at 8:40 am
The Machu Picchu Trekking Team arrived in Cusco a few days ago with all their luggage in tow. Since we are currently at 11,151’ there are a few acclimatization days planned into the schedule. Yesterday we toured the Sacred Valley that is carved from the Urabamba River and contains many agricultural and cultural areas vital to the Quechua people of this area.
We got our first look at the impressive Incan stone work and a brief walk on a trail similar to what we will walk on over the next week. Following the great interpretative tour at Ollantaytambo we were fortunate to observe a local celebration and parade in Pisac Market. There were small groups of families and friends in colorful costumes and dress. Each group had their own music and choreographed dance, it was something else.
Today we will visit a few more Incan sites and the temple of the sun before getting our gear ready for the trek. Everyone is doing well and adjusting to the dry air and high altitude. We are eager to begin walking towards Machu Picchu.
RMI Guide Mike King
RMI Guide Bryan Mazaika and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons July 12 - 17 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 8:20 AM. It's a beautiful day on the mountain and the team enjoyed some time in the crater rim before starting their descent. The team will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow, after some additional training, the team will break camp, return to the trail and make their way back to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford.
Congratulation to the Emmons Seminar Team!
Posted by: Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mongolia
Eleven miles is a long way to walk. Today, however, it didn't feel very far as stunning vista after vista distracted us from the distance and the hours seemed to fly by. Eventually we made our way to 10,000ft here in the edge of the Potaniin Glacier and established a basecamp that will serve as our home for the next few days.
A highlight of the day was only shouldering small day packs with a few jackets and a bottle of water since a troupe of camels carried our duffels and heavy group gear for us. Climbing in places with beasts of burden may spoil our future views on carrying big backpacks.
For now, the team is laying down and trying to get a big night of sleep. The weather forecast looks good for the next few days, so if we wake to clear skies we may go climb one of the local rocky peaks.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Hello all,
Life is great here in Huaraz! Hotel Andino is one the my all time favorite places to wake up due to the incredible sunrise views and the delicious breakfast buffet, both of which our team indulged in this morning.
After our leisurely start, we spent some time checking over our climbing gear in advance of our upcoming trips into the mountains. We also took the opportunity in the afternoon to stimulate some acclimatization by going for a hike above town to ‘Puca Ventana’, or Red Window. The views of Huaraz from this high plateau are spectacular! And after two days of sedentary travel, getting outside and working the legs and lungs was just what this team needed. Cafe Andino did the trick for a big post-hike lunch and we were off to enjoy the city for the rest of our afternoon. Living our best lives down here in Huaraz.
Tomorrow, we’ll take our hiking legs a little bit higher to Lake Churup at an altitude over 14,000’. We’ll send pics!
RMI Guide Robby Young and Team Porch Life
Posted by: Josh McDowell, Dominic Cifelli, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Climb July 13 - 17 opted to make their summit attempt today. RMI Guide Josh McDowell led their team to the summit of Mt. Rainier on a "fantastic day". Josh reported a light breeze, sunny and warm temps this morning. The team will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to Paradise and conclude their trip with a celebration ceremony.
Congratulations to the Five Day Climb team!
Posted by: Steve Gately, Ross Morgan, Jessica Keil
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb July 13 - 16 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on a beautiful day. RMI Guide Steve Gately and team were approaching the crater rim shortly after 7 AM. Clear skies and warm sunny temperatures were the report.
Nice work team!
The team left Moscow very early this morning and traveled via plane and bus to the beautiful Caucasus Mountains.
Our two-hour flight took us to southern Russia not too far from the Black Sea to a place called Mineralnye Vody, which is known for its abundant Mineral Waters. Southern Russia is predominately rural and is responsible for much of the agriculture that the larger cities depend on.
We were met at the airport by my friend and local guide Yuri, whom I've climbed with many times. Then hopped in our van for the beautiful three-hour drive up the Baksan Valley to the base Elbrus.
Things went pretty smooth minus a few little traffic jams with cars, motorcycles and cows all humorously trying to use the road at the same time.
The small town we are in is called Cheget, and it doubles as a ski town in winter and converts to a climbing town in the summer. We didn't do a ton of exploring this afternoon due to the adjustment of the time that we are all still feeling and having started so early. However, tomorrow we will do our first acclimatizing hike and do a little exploring too.
All is well here as we are looking forward to a little exercise tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
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Hey Guys! Looks like you are off to a great start. Great to see your smiling faces, can’t wait see more pictures. Stay Safe!
Posted by: Danika and Taylor on 7/17/2019 at 10:21 am
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