RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Progressing Well Down Hill

July 1, 2017

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

July 1, 2017 12:51 a.m. PST We awoke to wind and snow this morning at our 17,000 ft camp. This did not phase our crew after our successful summit day yesterday. All we wanted to do is head down to warmer, thicker air. We made it all the way down to our old 11,000 ft camp, where we decided to set up tents and nap a bit. This puts us within striking distance of the airstrip at basecamp. We will have to get on the trail around 3:00 or 4:00 to make sure that the lower glacier is still frozen while we make our way to basecamp. We want those crevasse bridges as strong as possible! Wish us good flying weather for tomorrow! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team At 17K Camp Keeping an Eye on Conditions

July 1, 2017

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Hannah McGowan, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

July 1, 2017 12:18 a.m. PST This time we did it. But it wasn't easy by any means. As usual, there was murk and cloud around at 5 AM, but we could see the West Buttress and we couldn't see signs of big wind blowing. We packed up and ate a last low altitude breakfast. The team was climbing by 7:45 in light snow. We didn't have the perfectly packed trail this time and in the poor light of the mild shadowy whiteout, it sometimes felt as if we were climbing by Braille. At the top of the fixed lines, the crest of the Buttress wasn't universally friendly. When the sun prevailed, we were too hot and when the wind and cloud ruled, it could be kind of raw and mean. What was definitely friendly was crossing paths with Mike Haugen's victorious descending team. Climbing Washburn's Thumb at 16,600 feet was strenuous and exhilarating. The airy ridge walk after that felt slightly less airy with cloud filling the void on either side of the crest. It took us 8.5 hours, with some glitches and minor setbacks, but we got up to high camp. The weather improved at 17,200 ft as the clouds fell far below us and the sun made everything comfy and magical as the evening progressed. We'll likely rest tomorrow, but that doesn't mean we won't be looking out early to check conditions. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

After this,it’s all downhill- literally. Dad

Posted by: Don brennan on 7/2/2017 at 8:58 am

After this it’s all downhill- literally. Dad

Posted by: Don brennan on 7/2/2017 at 8:56 am

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Mt. Rainier: July 1st Update

July 1, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI teams, led by Pete Van Deventer and Chase Nelson, reached the Mt. Rainier summit at 5:45 a.m. The weather is nice and at 7:05 a.m. the teams were at High Break on their descent. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Many thanks to Pete, Peter and Jordan for guiding us to the summit. It was was a great reward for our journey that began in January with “small” hikes!

Cheers,
Daryl

Posted by: Daryl on 7/3/2017 at 12:23 am

Pete, Pete, Chase, and Jordan-

You guys were the best. Thank you all for taking care of me, my closest friends, and family. Adventure of a lifetime.

I hope to do this again next year.

Thanks again guys.

Jim

Posted by: Jim Fick on 7/2/2017 at 9:19 am

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Artesonraju: Elias & Team Delayed by Weather

June 30, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Hello again from Artesonraju Base Camp. We delayed one day our departure to Paria North due to bad weather this morning. We are hoping to launch tomorrow morning, as the skies are clearing up as we speak. That's it for today folks! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

Mt. Rainier: Okita, Dale & Teams Summit with Perfect Weather

June 30, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Brent Okita called from the Mt. Rainier crater rim with the news, "We are on the summit on a Bluebird Day!" Clear skies, no wind, and views for miles- can't beat a summit like that. The teams spent an hour on top before starting their descent at 7:00 a.m.

Cayambe Express: Walter & Team Safe and Sound After Cayambe Summit

June 30, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

With a pre-midnight alpine start from the Cayambe climbing hut, we woke to a starry sky and light winds; all systems were go. We had a quick breakfast, got geared up in the hut, and were walking by midnight. The weather was perfect for our climb and so were the mountain conditions, with firm (but not icy) snow for efficient cramponing. The climbing was varied: rock scrambling to reach the glacier, gentle glaciated slopes, a steep 200’, 45° headwall, and a narrow summit ridge. Six hours later we were all standing on top of Cayambe, at 19,000’ that lies directly on the equator. We enjoyed great views of Cotopaxi, the Ilinizas and Antisana to the south, and Cotacachi and Imbabura to the north. We spent a half hour on top, high-fiving, hugging, taking pictures, and even singing. As we descended, winds increased and clouds were rising from the rain forest to the east. Soon a nasty-looking lenticular cloud formed over the summit. But our timing was perfect; we were well below this by now and smoothly descending back to the climbing hut. In less than an hour after arriving at the hut we were packed up and loaded into four-wheel drive vehicles and headed back to the hacienda Guachala for hot showers, delicious food, and comfy beds. Tomorrow we’ll head back to Quito for the night. RMI Guide Mike Walter

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Back to High Camp After Summit

June 30, 2017

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

June 30, 2017 2:13 am PST After a thirteen-hour summit day, the crew is back at high camp safe and sound. The conditions were variable all day from sunny and calm to windy and snowing. We had to break trail both to and from Denali Pass. I am proud of the whole crew and the effort that they put in for a successful summit day! RMI Guide Mike Haugen P.S. Gloria says Happy Birthday to her dad!

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Mike and team for a successful summit!!! It must feet amazing! Glad you made it back safely to High Camp. Praying for a continued safe trip down and some much needed rest! God Bless.

Posted by: Vicki Brown on 7/1/2017 at 6:01 am

my heart is beating for you all. Glo’s mom

Posted by: michelle on 6/30/2017 at 10:18 pm

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Summit!

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe

Categories:

Elevation: 20,310'

This is RMI Team 6, standing on the summit of Denali at 6:10 p.m.. A little bit of a cloud, not much wind. Everybody is super happy and super healthy, we are looking forward to a good descent. Thank you everybody for your support. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls from the summit of Denali, Alaska.

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Congrats Glo Roe and Team 6! Safe steps on the way back down!

Posted by: Kyle Parsons on 7/1/2017 at 3:01 am

Congrats Julian & team! SO excited for you all!!! Well done! :)

Posted by: Cheryl on 6/30/2017 at 3:11 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Hold on at 14,000’ Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah McGowan, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

The "moving up" picture wasn't all that clear this morning at 5 AM. Nor was it at 6 or 7 or 8 or 9. There was plenty of cloud about and some signs of wind on the ridges where we wanted to be. By the time the weather had improved, it was our judgement that we'd be getting into high camp at a later hour than we'd prefer. We traded the physical difficulty of moving up for the mental difficulty of sitting tight for one more day at 14 K. One more day of rest, one more day of acclimatization, one more day of anticipation. We managed it just fine. Ultimately the clouds closed in on 14,000' Camp and took away our views. We had sporadic radio contact with Mike Haugen's RMI team as they felt their way up through higher clouds toward Denali's summit. Tomorrow is our day to move! Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Artesonraju: Elias & Team Reach Base Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 13,650'

Buenas tardes from Artesonraju Base Camp! We enjoyed a good rest day today. We fiddled with our gear, re-fitted crampons and practiced climbing anchor transitions. Good conversations were had at the dining tent too, all while enjoying the tea selection that our cook Emilio has brought, which we sweeten with the super natural honey from the bees of his next door neighbor. Rain has made a short appearance in the afternoon, but we look forward to start hiking up Paria North soon, our acclimatization peak, under sunny skies. That's it for now! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope you get some good weather, looks like an awesome time.

Posted by: Chris Jano on 7/2/2017 at 4:03 am

Keep killing it up there old man, love you!

Posted by: Nate Milbourn on 7/1/2017 at 11:43 am

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RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Progressing Well Down Hill

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team At 17K Camp Keeping an Eye on Conditions

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: July 1st Update

Artesonraju: Elias & Team Delayed by Weather

Mt. Rainier: Okita, Dale & Teams Summit with Perfect Weather

Cayambe Express: Walter & Team Safe and Sound After Cayambe Summit

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Back to High Camp After Summit

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Summit!

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Hold on at 14,000’ Camp

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Artesonraju: Elias & Team Reach Base Camp

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