RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 9, 2017 Today we enjoyed a little bit of sleeping in before a solid brunch. The weather has been persnickety of late, but our team is handling the storm well, fortifying camp at 14,000' and swapping stories in our cook tent. Naps are a big part of the downtime as we wait for a chance to move higher. Yesterday we went for a training mission to hone our skills for the fixed lines and everyone did a great job, passing their rope skills test with flying colors. Cross your fingers for some good weather for us! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Lindsay - hope you are having the time of your life! It seems like weather is not cooperating but I am sure it will turn around. Hang in there!

Posted by: Manish on 6/10/2017 at 4:08 pm

Steve, We are in awe watching you and your team embrace this journey.You are all truly amazing!! Hang in there man…you are living the dream…We love you and can’t wait to see, hug , and have a very expensive bottle of wine and dinner with you!! Stay safe all. Ruth and Mike

Posted by: Mike and Ruth on 6/10/2017 at 2:51 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on Top!

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Mike King led their Four Day Summit Climb June 6 - 9 Teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams ascended to Camp Muir yesterday in wet conditions so we were glad to hear that the weather had improved for their summit day. After enjoying some time in the crater the teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

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I was part of the team that past you yesterday on the snowfield in the rain storm. Felt so bad for you guys. I was soaked. But to see that you made it gives me great joy. Congrats!! I am so happy for you!!

Posted by: Joe Seguin on 6/9/2017 at 9:06 pm

Congratulations to our friend we met at the Missoula gas station.

Posted by: Dorothy M Hammons on 6/9/2017 at 1:46 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Retreat to 14K Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 9, 2017 12:55 a.m. PT Every fifteen minutes another gust would pummel the side of the tent. Of course, it would have to be on my side. The moisture inside our precious shelter, frozen to the walls of the tent would fall on us with each gust, forcing us deeper into our bed of down. Day five at 17,200' turned in to a real doozy. The forecasts have actually been fairly good lately, and no good news was to be had with the latest issued. In fact, a high wind alert was posted for the upcoming four days with winds into the sixties. This had camp on edge, including my wise assistants Christina and JT, upon whom I rely so heavily to help make our trip the best and safest, My initial optimism that the weather would surely improve with time was tempered by the latest info coming out. A decision to retreat to the relative safety, protection and comfort of 14,200' camp was made by all in camp, even though the strong winds are cause for concern as we need to navigate the technical terrain of the West Buttress. Taking down tents and packing up went well even in those conditions, a testament of the ability of our veteran and tested team. The climb down to camp went well, besides the inevitable traffic of perhaps fifty people leaving camp simultaneously. To our delight, the RMI teams at 14,200' got into our cache and had camp all set up for us when we pulled in, What incredible work, A huge THANKS to [url=https://www.rmiguides.com/blog/expedition/denali_5_23_17/desc]https://www.rmiguides.com/blog/expedition/denali_5_23_17/desc[/url], Jake and their teams!!! So now, at day 19 we have a number of folks feeling the pull of home and a life put on hold while we take part in this incredible experience. A couple of others are still excited to finish off the climb and willing to put in a few more days. An updated forecast in the morning might help us see if we actually have a realistic chance of getting a good enough break on the weather in a few days time. We'll make some final decisions in the morning, but right now we might not even have good enough weather to leave camp. Goodnight from 14,200' camp (revisited), RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

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Dear Alex,
“Nevertheless, she persisted…”
Keep strong and safe, team.
Jasmin

Posted by: Jasmin on 6/10/2017 at 6:38 am

Hello Mountain Friends! So sorry that I couldn’t join the climb at the last minute this year. Everything has resolved itself with my family’s health issues, but it was necessary to stay here. While I have been very disappointed that I can’t be climbing with you, I have been following the blog entries about your progress with enthusiasm, and am impressed with the tough resolve that you have all exhibited as you’ve faced the various challenges on the mountain. I truly hope that the weather relents and gives you all a well-deserved shot at the summit in the next few days! Best of luck and stay safe everyone. I hope to climb with you all at some point on down the road. -William

Posted by: William Kenyon on 6/9/2017 at 6:59 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relax at 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 8, 2017 Today was another relaxed day! The crew played more corn hole and we learned a new old game from Amir and Nima. The winds were cooking this morning. The signs of uphill progress were not looking hot. The team is bonding and has high spirits for sticking out the unsettled and likely stormy weather the next few days. Brent's RMI team descended to 14,000' to skip the bad weather up high. The guides put some strong work into helping them set up camp and make water for them. Tomorrow will likely bring more laughter and good times maybe some laps around camp, we'll see. The weather has to break at some point! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Matt,
I hope you’re well up there and that you’re getting some good use out of my favorite down slippers. Enjoy the rest of your time on the mountain and take lots of pictures. It looks amazing and I can’t wait to hear your stories.

If by chance you start to miss me… Just remember every time you look up at the moon, I too will be looking at a moon. Not the same moon, obviously, that’s impossible.

Love, Colleen

Posted by: Colleen on 6/9/2017 at 4:24 pm

Hope weather breaks real soon! We want you to come home soon! Stay safe!

Posted by: Kathy Healy on 6/9/2017 at 3:09 pm

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Fly into the Alaska Mountains

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Good evening from the Pika Glacier! We flew in yesterday on schedule, and continued with a busy afternoon of camp building for what's going to be home for the next week. We woke to warm temperatures that made the forecasted precipitation fall in the shape of rain, which kept us tent grounded for the morning. A beautiful afternoon provided a good review of skills, and the motivation is high for our first venture into the nearby formations tomorrow. Stay tuned for more! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Unable to Summit

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Casey Grom, Paul Rachele

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Paul Rachele led their Four Day Summit Climb June 5 - 8, 2017 up to Camp Muir yesterday under beautiful blue skies. Unfortunately the weather changed last night bringing rain and snow to Mt. Rainier which prevented today's climbs from making their summit attempt. The teams will descend to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp later today.

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 7, 2017 The team is still here at 14,000 ft Camp on Denali. Our snow walls we built yesterday proved to be worthy today as the winds were gusty and we had some light snowfall this afternoon. Today provided some more tent time than the last few days, discussions around dinner have evolved to what books people are reading and if anyone is ready to trade finished books. We also got crafty with building a camp game, with a sled filled with snow and some sandwich bags packed with snow we improvised the game cornhole. It became an instant hit and we might have some more time here to start a tournament! Otherwise, all is well as we wait out the windy and snowy conditions on the upper mountain. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Hi to Dear Amir and Nima and all team guide and team members,

Hoping this message finds you well. I can understand how tough it is to wait in the camp for final approach. You need to be too patient, that you are!! and keep yourself fit and safe. I don ‘t want to disappoint you but it may happen if your supplies are running rock bottom down or weather conditions are tough, your guides may decide bringing you down without going to top summing. But that’s it; at times it is the route that matters not the mere fact of reaching the goal. Stay tough, patient and safe,
Last Friday 9th of June, I climbed to Claun Bastak (CB) in Dizin area of Central Alborz, north of Tehran. CB has a height of 4300 m (we started from Dizin at 2000 m ) and when we reached summit we had the amazing view of Damavand summit, Touchal, and Alam Kuh. As it was too cold, we spent half an hour there. In the way down we had a difficult time as the route was too sharp and slippery. I have put pictures on our family account. !!
I keep my fingers crossed and pray you prevail it. But if you didn’t, don’t worry you are on the right path and on the good hands; you would be able to do it next time. Please don’t forget that it is not the goals that are important, the path towards goals are much mor fundamental and meaningful. You will accomplish it, keep your spirits and stay safe and well,
Hadi, Mitra’s father,

Posted by: Hadi on 6/10/2017 at 11:08 pm

Tym, Tyler, and Team,

Hang in there and be patient. Your time has to be coming. Keep up your spirits and know I am thinking of you here in the 90 degree lowlands of Charlotte, NC. And…Satoshi says, $2,822.00.

Love,
Mom

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/9/2017 at 3:56 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Take Rest Day At 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 7, 2017 We are writing from our newly built snow fortress at 14,000'. After a leisurely wake up time and a hearty brunch of bagels and smoked salmon (with capers!), we set our sights on fortifying our camp with some snow walls. The team worked seamlessly to make a solid camp that can withstand wind and blowing snow. With our work for the day out of the way, we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in our cozy tents. Our bellies are filled with a delicious dinner of chicken quesadillas, and we are looking forward to some more technical training tomorrow. Good night from 14,200 feet on Denali! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Cheryl, I’m almost unbearably proud to call a woman like you one of my dearest.
Cheerleading so ridiculously hard with my five star dance moves for you ! (I’d like to think in a way that would make you turn bright red and step slightly to the side - the psych is that real)
Mind
Over
Matter
Keep crushing! You’ve already reached the summit of my heart .
Hugs ❤️
Sarah

Posted by: Sarah on 6/9/2017 at 12:17 pm

Jake Jirsa - We’re watching you! Keep it up man. You’re only a few inches from the top on the map!

Posted by: Jim and Kerynn on 6/9/2017 at 11:42 am

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Climb to Denali Pass

June 8, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 18,200'

June 7, 2017 "Ok, I know we've been climbing for three hours straight, but let's get a quick bite to eat and drink and get out of here and back to camp." "Brent, there's like over thirty people behind us on the route." JT exclaims, trying to be heard over the winds that have just picked up. This was the scene at Denali Pass a few hours ago, high point of our midday sojourn to kick in the route, reset the anchors to the current route and mostly get some exercise so we do not waste away up here. After passing a windless evening last night I was optimistic of our chances to summit this morning. But, as our typically poor luck would have it, around 7:00am the first ripples of wind tickled the tent walls. By 9:00 we had 40 mph gusts pushing the tent walls into our faces. Yes, we were all ready to go if the weather improved since it wasn't horrible outside besides those pesky gusts. Finally, 11:45 rolled around and we decided to go for a little walk. By 12:30 we were climbing to Denali Pass. This is typically later than we'd like to start for the summit, but we didn't have the summit in mind anyways. What took me by surprise was how our little walk inspired the entire camp at 17,200' to gear up and climb. Our team really climbed well today, especially impressing me on how well everyone descended. The weather forecast is not really inspiring, but we'll hang in here for a couple more days anyways to see if we can catch a break. The team is still smiling, and we had a great experience today. All it takes is one nice day to finish this thing off. Good night, RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

JT - I’m living vicariously through you, have fun and be safe.!

Posted by: Uncle Tad on 6/9/2017 at 6:53 am

Keep the faith, Lindsay and team!

Ken P

Posted by: Ken Porrello on 6/8/2017 at 12:49 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 7, 2017

Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Jake Beren & Team checking in. We moved to 14.000' Camp on Denali yesterday. Today we are busy building walls and fortifying our camp and getting settled in. We will spend tomorrow training and are enjoying the thinner air. All is well!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

14000 - awesome! Stay Strong everyone!
Go Steve!

Mike and Pat

Posted by: Mike and Pat Lurakis on 6/8/2017 at 8:18 am

happy birthday to ken at 14000! love from your wife and family.

Posted by: anne lawler on 6/7/2017 at 9:27 pm

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RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Train at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on Top!

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Retreat to 14K Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Relax at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Fly into the Alaska Mountains

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Unable to Summit

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Remain at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Take Rest Day At 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Climb to Denali Pass

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

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