RMI Expeditions Blog

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Training Day

May 25, 2017

Posted by: Eric Frank, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 15,200'

We awoke to our first real look at the Condoriri Group and it was absolutely spectacular. Crystal clear skies highlighted a couple climbing groups heading up a rolling glacier on the way toward Pequeno Alpamayo. For our group that path waits for tomorrow, so after a languorous breakfast, the team headed up to 16k to continue our acclimatization and practice the skills for the upcoming day. We managed to refresh everyone's prior knowledge and even add a technique or two to the group's toolbox. Our schooling came to a swift close as the afternoon clouds rolled in and forced us back to camp to lounge away the late afternoon and rest up for the long day ahead. Now the team is wrapped up in our tents watching the night sky clear above us! RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Kim,Love the informative updates from the RMI guides.Sounds like an amazing trip!The Preds are in the Stanley Cup Finals! First game Monday against the Pittsburgh Penguins.Stay tuned.Travel safe! GO KIM! Love,Dad

Posted by: SHELDON KRIZELMAN on 5/26/2017 at 5:13 am

Hey Kimmer-sounds like an amazing trip so far! I love the blog entries-so poetic…Sophia’s last day of school is today so it’s summer party time in Atlanta!! Have fun and stay safe!! Xoxoxo Lora

Posted by: Lora on 5/26/2017 at 4:25 am

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Weather Window In Sight?

May 25, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Lucas Haaland

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Last night's winds abated in camp, but up high that was not the case. A large, menacing lenticular cloud covered the upper portion of the mountain and wind could be seen blowing plumes of snow off of the West Buttress. But, the storm seems to be on its way out. We are hoping to move to high camp tomorrow or the next day and have a go at the summit. We'll see what the weather has in store, but at least it is improving. From Robbie: Happy birthday Vanessa! RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Rainier: Hahn, Gately & the Expedition Skills Seminar Reaches the Summit!

May 25, 2017

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 21 - 26, 2017 led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Steve Gately have spent the week training at Camp Muir. Today they made an alpine start for their summit attempt. The team reached the summit around 8 am and was able to enjoy the views. Dave Hahn reported a light cloud cap on the summit and otherwise good conditions. The team will return to Camp Muir today for their final night on the mountain. They will complete their program tomorrow and wrap up with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp. Congratulations to today's team!

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Experience Squirrely Weather

May 25, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

May 24, 2017 Well, the weather has changed, and not for the best. Wind and snow intensified this morning, so much so that we postponed our departure to retrieve our cache from 10,000' for a bit to make sure a big storm didn't move in. But the weather held off enough for us to bring our cache back to camp. Now we're set. This continually amazes me. When we got back I thought we all deserved a break, figuring an hour or two of tent time to rest up would be most welcome, 20-30 minutes later I hear most everyone out cutting blocks to beef up the walls we already had. Impressive! We're sitting pretty now, ready for anything. Should tomorrow's weather preclude a carry to cache at 13,500', that would be just fine. Everyone has been working so hard and so well that some tent time is probably in order. Even, I am looking forward to a rest day soon. And we're all looking forward to some better weather. Our peek at the mountains surrounding us last night just made us want more. Oh, and in case you were wondering what was on the menu today. Scrambled eggs, hash browns and bacon for breakfast. An assortment of Indian food, served on a bed of rice and chicken, followed by a nice pudding for dessert. Mmm. That's it from 11,200' camp. Good night. RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I did this route in Juky 1970 with Ray Genet. Good luck and be safe!

Posted by: William Dailey on 5/25/2017 at 5:18 pm

Keep up the good work, I am simply “blown away” by your accomplishment so far, with love,
NeeNee, JT’s grandma

Posted by: carol m smith on 5/25/2017 at 12:36 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take a Weather Day

May 25, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000

May 24, 2017 Well, the Denali storm has arrived (we are calling it the Horiskey storm). We woke to snow this morning, and as the day had progressed, the winds have strengthened. Lots of snow is moving around camp, and being out of a tent is really unpleasant. So we've stayed in the tents. Our cook tent is nice and tight, and our individual tents were occupied with napping, music, and reading. The storm is supposed to peak tomorrow, so probably more of the same in store. Our walls are strong, our sleeping bags warm, and our bellies full, so all in all, life is good. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team

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Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Practice Storm Living

May 25, 2017

Posted by: Leon Davis, Mike King, Jessie Poquerusse

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

May 24, 2017 Today began the exercise in storm living. The low pressure south of us arrived and brought with it a foot of new snow. The team entertained themselves with funny stories over a few rounds of hot drinks and a long breakfast. In the afternoon we stretched our legs with a four mile walk on the main Kahiltna Glacier before blowing snow and a disappearing track turned us back. Thankfully a little bit of stormy weather is not enough to lower the morale of this great group of strangers become friends. Tomorrow we anticipate more snow and winds but that will not be a problem for this team. Hope everyone at home is warm and dry. RMI Guide Leon Davis

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HAPPY BIRTHDAY PATTY!!! What a place to be to celebrate your day! You have a text with a birthday surprise when you return to civilization. You must be in heaven with all that snow! Thinking about your smile and hearing your voice in my mind every moment. Love, John

Posted by: John Kudla on 5/26/2017 at 1:32 am

JGH: Hope the weather conditions are getting easier for the group and that you are having a terrific time - see u Saturday though not sure what time?
Hugs, Mia

Posted by: Mia Horgan on 5/25/2017 at 9:26 pm

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Head into the Mountains

May 24, 2017

Posted by: Eric Frank, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 15,000'

Pickled and fresh cut veggies, mouth watering empanadas, chicken thighs that fall off the bone. I think the Bolivia team assumed our days of feasting on this trip were over, but no! Today we ventured into the mountains under cloudy, threatening skies, accompanied by our cook staff. Fortunately we made it into base camp before it started to rain. Once the tents were up, our kitchen team treated us to a three course dinner where we laughed and told stories, dragging the meal out to two full hours. After dinner, we walked outside to find that the clouds had lifted and we could see the Southern Cross stretched across the sky. Life at 15k ain't so bad!! RMI Guide Eric Frank

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Have fun and stay safe out there boys, wish I was climbing with you again this summer! Trip looks like a blast!

Posted by: Lowry on 5/25/2017 at 3:40 pm

Hey Mattie and team Eric—-all us slugs back at the office are rooting for you! Still expect a picture of you wearing a bowler hat!

Posted by: Steve on 5/25/2017 at 1:27 pm

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Wait Out the Storm

May 24, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Lucas Haaland

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

We're hunkered down in camp today as a strong storm is producing snow and wind over Denali. We can hear the winds howling a few thousand feet above us, sounding like waves crashing on a rocky shore. Here at camp it is windy but not nearly that extreme. Winds here are gusting in 20 mph range, which is not too bad at all. We have big walls built to protect our camp, so our tents are just barely shaking. We expect this storm to persist through tomorrow and hopefully we'll have better weather in its wake with which to make a summit push. Our fingers are crossed! RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

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Like the warmth of the sun
And the light of the day,
May the luck of the Irish
Shine bright on your way

Best wishes for Saturday’s push to the summit, Love Mom

Posted by: Cynthia Chitwood on 5/25/2017 at 7:34 pm

Well, the water heater has been replaced, the leaking toilet has been repaired, the weather has cooled off so no need for air conditioners or screens, the lawn is freshly mowed, and the sun is shining for the first time in days. Hope that portends good weather on Denali as well. Thinking of all of you hunkering down in your tents. Hope everyone has good reading material!
Nancy

Posted by: Nancy Hines on 5/25/2017 at 5:23 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Enjoy First Full Rest Day

May 24, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000

May 23, 2017 We took our first full rest day at 14. The winds were moving snow up high, but it was a pretty glorious day here in Genet Basin. We spent the day improving our walls for winds that are forecasted to huff and puff, and also practiced for our eventual trip up the fixed lines. Mike Walter's team challenged us to a jeopardy game this evening, and we're happy to report that we took the prize, with a score of 200 to 0 (though both teams spent a long time in the negative area). We'll see what tomorrow brings. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway and team

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Jordan!

Looks like you and the team are doing well, hope you had a good rest day. Seriously though stop being lazy and get to the top of the mountain! Miss seeing you, stay safe, and don’t worry the sky isn’t falling around here without you.

Regards,

Posted by: TJ Burns on 5/24/2017 at 7:38 pm

Such an amazing experience for you all. I am a friend of Joel Broder’s friend, Susie Okun. She was talking about your hike today and hooked me up with your blog. The pictures are beautiful. You must be having an incredible time! Enjoy and be safe. XO

Posted by: Jackie Mossman on 5/24/2017 at 2:59 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Arrive at 11,200’ Camp

May 24, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Another cloudy, snowy day greeted us this morning but didn't stop us from pushing on. Typical of weather on the Kahiltna Glacier, there was enough new snow and poor visibility to make the going difficult, but certainly not enough to call it a storm day and relax in the tents. Upon reaching camp at 11,200' the sun broke through and we were treated to our first sunshine of the trip. What a nice welcome. The sun sticks around late here, and we've enjoyed every bit of it, hanging out in the Posh for a couple hot drinks and sharing stories. Tomorrow we look forward to our easiest day when we just need to retrieve the cache we buried at 10,000'. The forecast calls for a little storm to brush by us tomorrow or the next day, but I don't see any sign of that yet. If it does, we'll just dig in and enjoy a rest day I guess. Everyone's climbing super well and in good spirits. Good night from 11,200'. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

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RMI Expeditions Blog

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Training Day

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Weather Window In Sight?

Mt. Rainier: Hahn, Gately & the Expedition Skills Seminar Reaches the Summit!

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Experience Squirrely Weather

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Take a Weather Day

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Practice Storm Living

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Head into the Mountains

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Wait Out the Storm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Enjoy First Full Rest Day

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Arrive at 11,200’ Camp

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