RMI Expeditions Blog
Hello everyone back home. All is well here in the Khumbu!
After so much time together bonding the team has decided to stick together and finish this trek the same way we started, together. Island Peak will have to wait till next time!
We left Pheriche and hiked downhill passing what seemed like a endless line of trekkers, climbers, porters, and yaks loaded with gear for Everest. It was a beautiful but long day, and we have arrived in Namche after eight hours on our feet. Clear weather allowed us more amazing views and the chance for one more view of Everest before descending down to camp. The warm thicker air feels great and the team has just finished a nice dinner at our tea house "Camp De Base".
Tonight we are having the world championship of cribbage!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Mark Tucker here calling from Island Peak Basecamp. Had a wonderful stay at the resort in Chukung. Great evening, kind fellowship with other climbers from around the world. The hike up here took about 3 hours, and did very well and greeted by a staff that we've had in place. They've been here for few days, great dining and kitchen area, wonderful food, tents already set up. What a lap of luxury we walked right into. We did a couple hikes today to keep the blood flowing. The team is doing very well. Planning tomorrow to finalize details, get some gear sorted, and then we're gonna ship up to High Camp and get ourselves ready for the summit push tomorrow in the late evening. So the deal is on, we're doing great, and we'll talk to you later.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in from Island Peak Basecamp.
On The Map
Good luck guys….
Posted by: Ravi on 4/4/2013 at 2:40 pm
Glad to hear all is going well. Be safe.
Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 4/4/2013 at 9:44 am
The team left Basecamp today and descended all they way back to Pheriche at 14,000ft. We were excited to meet the Everest climbing team on their way up and wish them luck. Everyone is doing well and looking forward to the thicker air and warmer temps that lies below.
Well do our best to send some photos tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Mark Tucker here outside of our resort in Chukung. Rallying for our next wave of the program, the Island Peak climb. Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse. Wow! What a view. Let's call it Phase 1 is in the books and what a trip so far. The Island Peak team, we bid farewell to the trek group this morning, under yep, once again, beautiful blue skies. As a guide, you try your hardest to be the conduit between the mountain and the folks with a bit less experience usually. And it thrills me every time to see groups like these accept this new kind of challenge. Rainier Mountaineering does such a great job preparing its guides. They provide us with the training and support for the staff. The incredible institutional knowledge is passed down literally generations of professional guiding. It's just, it is the best there is out there and I'm so proud to be part of this great group of women and men. With that said, your training has led you to never take anything for granted, or let my guard down, in what can be in quite a hostile environment. There can be a surprise around any corner. And I just wanna send my congratulations to my trek team for a fantastic job they all did. Thanks for spending time with me out here in my office. And safe travels home to all you guys. And now, here come the climb team, and we are ready. Its [Island Peak] basecamp tomorrow, back into tent life. And I'm looking forward to it.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in from Chukung.
On The Map
Good luck to the Island Peak climb team. Pete and Liesl, we’ll be thinking of you and wishing you great weather and a fantastic climb.
Posted by: Jo Ann, John, and Mom on 4/2/2013 at 3:50 pm
Way to go trekkers. Mark, you are the best! Good luck on Island Peak and being Base Camp manager. I can’t wait to do another trip with you.
Posted by: Stephani on 4/2/2013 at 3:21 pm
We deserved a leisurely start to our rest/acclimatization day in Pheriche. So we dragged feet and drank coffee until 9 AM before heading outside. The morning weather could best be described as "splitter". As in, it was perfectly blue sky and ultra clear air. We were looking for light activity at altitude to enhance our acclimatization. Right out the back door of the lodge there happens to be a hill that is perfect for such activity. Up we went with a plan to be back by lunch. Immediately we had a view of Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world. That compensated us for the loss of Everest, which we can no longer see. Before long we were seeing the craggy summit of Makalu, fifth highest, and we'd regained a view of Lhotse (#4). We bumped into a number of other teams that we've come to know on our little trek circuit, each out for the views and the exercise. Those views only got more incredible as we worked our way up the giant stairmaster to about 16,500 ft above sea level... 2,500 feet above our lodge. We were being circled by eagles and cooled by breezes so we couldn't stay too long to enjoy the view... Lunch and an easy afternoon were calling. The team trooped to the nearby Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) clinic to receive a great lecture by one of the docs on altitude and common trekker illnesses but spent the rest of the day napping, gaming and chatting.
Tomorrow we hope to push on to Lobuche.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
such beautiful mountains!
Posted by: michelle on 4/2/2013 at 5:20 pm
The team safely arrived at Basecamp after a climb up Kala Patar. New altitude records for some! The Easter bunny must have come through camp because there were little chocolate eggs left around camp when we arrived (thanks Tucker). Most everyone is feeling better and enjoying the wonderful cooking of our BC cook Kumar. The team spent the day enjoying the views and a little exploring of the camp. Hot showers were had by all!
Tomorrow we'll make the trek back down to Pheriche and hopefully cross paths with RMI's Everest climbers.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Congrats to everyone on the team and esp. those
Team Waki members. Know you are glad to finally be there. Allie and MIssy- safe travels “down” - remember it is really not down! Elsie- may the force be with you as you power up Island Peak!
Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 4/2/2013 at 5:14 pm
Congratulations on reaching Base Camp! I hope all of you are healthy and well. Weather still looks good. Enjoy the views, and be careful on the way down. Keith, everyone here is proud and in awe of you.
Posted by: Yuki Loritz on 4/2/2013 at 3:23 pm
Posted by: Alex Van Steen
Categories: Guide News Carstensz Pyramid Responsible Climbing
In February 2013, I spent several weeks in West Papua with the express intention of connecting with villagers who live along the trek followed by our Carstensz Pyramid climbing programs. I traveled with two translators - one a long-time friend who grew up in West Papua and the other a member of the Moni tribe, a man who truly has a good heart for his people.
I visited about ten villages and had numerous trailside chats. I spent many hours chatting (as well as eating, and playing soccer & table tennis!) and had opportunities to share our vision with various folks: government officials, village elders, tribal chiefs, pastors and school teachers.
The constant thread throughout the conversations involved villagers expressing frustration with tourists who came to “take photographs” and “take summits” but who did not (as it was described to me) “give relationship.” It is understandable that folks were upset when they weren’t paid as promised by unscrupulous outfitters or when they felt unsafe being asked to porter into the high country (the tribal peoples have not traditionally traveled above the jungles, see story below), but it truly resonated with me that when they felt most disrespected was when they were treated as if they were nothing more than pack animals. Quite frankly, they explained, why should they leave their tribal community and upset their daily lives only to be mistreated or underpaid?
I knew that in order to eat this elephant, I would need to take it one bite at a time, so I started with small bites of “giving relationship.” I found that when I played soccer (which I am convinced is the lingua franca of relationship) with the local men and boys on village airstrips, that we had laughs to share (mostly at me tripping on the uneven surface!); when I offered to show folks photos of my family, they showed me their village (!); and for all my “otherness” (some folks, I was told, had never seen white-skinned people), I was never denied the hospitality of a meal or a hut as respite from the rain.
Another small bite was the creation of the protocols (below) to be posted in a church along our route. The pastor in this village of twenty people, a good man named Atan, had initially wanted to run me off. I agreed to keep walking, but in deepening the conversation as to why, I learned that an earlier group of tourists had – in his word – “desecrated” the church by leaving garbage there. I whole-heartedly agreed that such practices were unacceptable, and offered to create protocols to instruct tourists how to behave. Through my translators I was able to build a simple list of what it would take for his village to feel respected. They fully wanted tourists to stop for the night but they also needed tourists to respect that privilege.
As I look forward to my next trip, I hope to take a few more bites of the elephant!
THE SUGAPA ROUTE VISITOR PROTOCOLS
This church serves an important role in the community. Guests are welcomed to find refuge here and are asked respect the following requests. This will help ensure use of the building for future travelers.
• Please stay off of the raised area which surrounds the altar. This area is for local religious personnel only and it is considered offensive if others trespass there.
• Please keep hot water, stoves & cookware out of the building. This helps keep the area clean.
• Please hang a trash bag just outside the building to collect your garbage. Villagers will burn your trash for you.
• Because of the importance of Sunday worship, travelers should not expect access to the building on Saturday evenings or Sundays.
• Please do not use the church grounds or property for toilet needs. Ask the Pastor of the church where it is appropriate to wash and use the bathroom.
• Please offer a donation for your use of the church. This is an appropriate and considerate way of expressing thanks.
Download a multi-lingual copy of the Sugapa Route Visitor Protocols here.
| The Moni name for Carstensz is Mbai Ngela. It means "Forbidden Egg." The story is that in years gone by when the mountain was snow covered, it resembled an egg, and the fore-fathers forbade their people from going there because it was the hunting grounds of evil spirits and those spirits always killed those who ventured there. Even today, villagers have a very difficult time understanding the science of hypothermia and often will point to and tell of places along the way where the spirits have killed a poor wayfarer! |
Hi Alex, Glad to see you are still at it and your spine is still in good enough
shape to climb the big ones! Not sure if you remember me, but I was your
chiropractor in Federal Way, and we ran into each other on Rainier in ‘95.
Hope all is well with you and yours. Drop me an e-mail if you have a chance.
Chris
P.S. gourds on the unit are the custom in Papau!
Posted by: Chris Mallory on 7/28/2013 at 7:59 pm
Two inches of sparkling white snow fell on Deboche last night. By morning whatever clouds had deposited the snow were long gone and blue skies prevailed. We ate breakfast while staring out the windows at massive plumes ripping off the summits of Everest and Lhotse. The team hit the trail by a few minutes after 8 AM and made easy progress through the snow coated rhododendron forest. In a short time, we crossed the river to the sunny side of the valley and made our way up to Pangboche and the home of Lama Geishi. He'd graciously consented to bestowing a blessing on the team. Revered by all in the Khumbu region, 80 year old Lama Geishi greets one and all with a smile and a special head butt while tying a sacred knotted string around each visitor's neck. He let us know that he was asking Chomolungma -the mother goddess of the earth- also known as Mt. Everest, to allow our climb to her summit.
We thanked Lama Geishi and resumed our hike, stopping in Shomare for a lunch while gazing up at Ama Dablam's impossibly steep flanks. Then it was just a short and quiet thousand vertical feet of climbing and we were walking into Pheriche and our tea house for the next two nights. The lodge is packed to capacity tonight with about six or seven teams of trekkers and climbers. In the evening we were happy to meet up with Mark Tucker bringing his team down valley. After he goes for Island Peak we will eagerly await his arrival in Basecamp as our teammate on the Everest Climb. Tuck will once again be basecamp manager and Khumbu Glacier mayor.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Great hearing about the venture. Good luck. Looking forward to photos and hearing about your ventures. Be safe. ABQ Uptown #985
Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 4/2/2013 at 9:43 am
I look forward to reading and looking at photos of your amazing adventure. Good luck team. “Mayor” Tucker is a great title. I can just see Mark holding a “town” meeting and getting the good citizens of basecamp rolling.
Posted by: Stephani on 4/1/2013 at 11:57 am
Lulled to sleep by rock and icefall, what a night at Everest Base Camp. A few comments that it was the best dinner since arriving in country. Short lived this time, we are already back in Pheriche gearing up for Island Peak. Should be deep sleep tonight here in the thick air of 14,000 ft. We'll bid farewell to the Trek team in the morning. As usual a whirlwind tour for the group. Lots of firsts for all. Once again the mountains provided fantastic views with perfect weather. Times like these are what bring you back to challenge the physical and mental. In time the photos will overshadow the tough conditions you are subjected to on trips like these. Maybe Hawaii next time, but I bet down the road another adventure of this type just can't be avoided.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
L & P- A Dream realized!....and you are changed forever!! Kudos. YEA!!
You epitomize YMNTBP!! Our Congrats to the entire team!! Thanks again, Mark…yes we think more Adventures will be in the offing!
Much love M & G
Posted by: Gretchen & Mike on 4/2/2013 at 9:06 am
just love following “team tucker”!!! what an adventure!!! safe trek to pheriche!!! tons of hugs buzz…Nancy
Posted by: nancy on 4/1/2013 at 11:11 am
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Fit to Climb: Week 9 Schedule
BRIEFING
This is a big week! This week’s hike will be the longest yet and will mark the end of the foundation phase of your training. After last week's fitness test, Day 6 reverts back to cross training this week.
DESCRIPTIONS OF WORKOUTS
Day 1: Rainier Dozen + Easy Hiking (30 Minutes)
Today’s hike is a recovery workout and you can always substitute it with a different activity, such as running, biking or swimming. The important thing is to move at a moderate pace for 30 to 45 minutes. The pace can be conversational, and you do not need to be dripping with sweat at the end of the workout.
Day 2: Rainier Dozen + Stair Interval Training (60 Minutes)
After the Rainier Dozen, warm up for about 10 minutes, and then climb up and down a set of stairs, at a consistent pace, for about 40 to 50 minutes. Cool down with some stretching. You don’t need to carry a pack on your stair interval training, the focus in this workout is on speed and intensity.
Day 3: Rainier Dozen / Rest
Begin your day with the Rainier Dozen. Feel free to take another 30 to 60 minutes of light exercise if you feel like it (a brisk walk is a great option). If you feel tired, today is a good opportunity be good to take a complete rest day instead. Listen to your body.
Day 4: Strength Circuit Training x 4
Repeat the strength circuit training workout introduced in Week 3. After warming up, perform four sets of the following exercises:
• Steam Engine
• Push Up
• Three Quarter Squat
• Russian Twists
• Lunge
• Steam Engine Laying down
• Mountain Climber
• 8 Point Bodybuilder
Spend 40 seconds performing the exercises, and take 20 seconds between exercises to rest and rotate. Take a full minute of rest between each set. Take a full minute of rest between each set. Take ten minutes to cool down by stretching after you’re done.
Day 5: Rainier Dozen / Rest
Begin your day with the Rainier Dozen. Feel free to take another 30 to 60 minutes of light exercise if you feel like it (a brisk walk is a great option). If you feel tired, today is a good opportunity be good to take a complete rest day instead. Listen to your body.
Day 6: Rainier Dozen / Cross Training (1 Hour)
Warm up with the Rainier Dozen and then spend an hour in some moderately vigorous activity as cross training (find out more about cross training here). Listen to your body, and have fun with it.
Day 7: 5 Hour Hike
Find a location to hike that is about 9 to 10 miles in distance and takes about 5 hours. Maintain the same weight for your pack as last week. If the weight of your pack has to increase a little bit to account for the additional time you’ll be on the trail, that’s ok too.
SUMMARY
How do you feel at this point of the program? Compare where you are now to week one; in what ways do you feel different as a result of the endurance, strength and skills that you’ve earned?
You are on-track to being a strong member of your rope team. Individual focus, skill, coordination and a multitude of factors make up the basis of split-second judgements in the mountains but physical fitness is the foundation for your climb, and you’ve got it. With the foundation you’ve built over the past nine weeks, and with the seven weeks remaining, you’ll have what it takes to be a strong member of your climbing team.
- John Colver
Have a question? See the Fit To Climb FAQ for explanations of specific exercises and general pointers to help you through the Fit To Climb Program.
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
| DAY | WORKOUT | TOTAL TIME | DIFFICULTY |
| 1 | Rainier Dozen / Easy Hiking ( 30 min) | 42 min. | Medium |
| 2 | Rainier Dozen / High Intensity Stair Interval Training (60 min) | 72 min. | Very Hard |
| 3 | Rainier Dozen / Rest | 12 min. | Recovery |
| 4 | Strength Circuit Training x 4 | 54 min. | Hard |
| 5 | Rainier Dozen / Rest | 12 min. | Recovery |
| 6 | Rainier Dozen / Cross Training | 60 min. | Medium |
| 7 | Hike (5 hrs, 15lbs of pack weight) | 300 min. | Medium |
| Total | 9 hrs 12 mins |
I am 64 but keeping current on these weekly training segments. I have 4 stents and on blood thinners, can I climb if I still am on a blood thinner….deferring to my cardiologist but would like your opinion on past climbers in my situation ?
Posted by: Joe Snyder on 5/19/2014 at 3:26 pm
Ditto the comments above! Especially Sasha’s “enjoy the descent!” Really, enjoy it all- we were amazed at how different the landscape was on our way back to Lukla.
Congratulations on fighting the fight and making it to EBC! We look forward to hearing the stories…
Be safe!
xo
Dana Marie
Posted by: Dana Marie Buchanan on 4/5/2013 at 8:55 am
Elsie,
Hope you are well…can’t wait to hear the stories when you are home…sounds like an amazing trip.
Posted by: Fletch on 4/5/2013 at 5:38 am
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