Entries By alex halliday
June 28, 2022
The Five Day Climb June 24 - 28 was unable to make a summit attempt due to high winds at Camp Muir overnight. RMI Guides Casey Grom and Alex Halliday reported that the wind picked up around 8 pm last night averaging 60 mphs at Camp Muir with gusts over 90 mph. The wind continues to blow this morning which will prevent the teams from ascending above Camp Muir. The Five Days Teams will be descending to Paradise later this morning and returning to Rainier BaseCamp.
June 23, 2022
RMI Guides JT Schmitt and Alex Halliday led their Four Day Climb June 20 - 23 teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. JT reported good conditions on the ascent with occasional wind gusts. The teams reached the summit around 8 am. As of noon, all climbers had returned to Camp Muir from the summit. The teams will pack up and continue their descent to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Awesome news! What route was taken? DC or Ingraham Direct?
Posted by: Nick Arbogast on 6/23/2022 at 12:28 pm
June 18, 2022
Due to avalanche activity, the Four Day Climb with RMI Guides JT Schmitt and Alex Halliday did not climb above Camp Muir this morning. The mountain received 8+" of new snow yesterday afternoon and there were numerous slides on the Cowlitz Glacier with several going over the trail. In the first picture, you can see evidence of avalanche debris that has been deposited along the first steps of the route.
The team has started their descent and will back at Ashford Basecamp early this afternoon.
Happy Birthday to my son Davis!
Posted by: Sherry Yonge on 6/18/2022 at 1:58 pm
8+’ ? Surely that’s in inches! Let’s all hope the weather improves and parties stay safe.
Posted by: David on 6/18/2022 at 11:25 am
June 13, 2022
The Five Day Climb June 9 - 13 enjoyed a beautiful sunrise from Ingraham Flats and Camp Muir this morning. Route conditions did not allow the teams to ascend above 11,200' yesterday or today but the team got in some good training and enjoyed two nights at Camp Muir. The teams descended to Paradise arriving around noon today and will conclude their program at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Photos: RMI Guide Eric Frank
We did training ascend on June 11 and went up to 11,000’ around 4 pm. I didn’t see any route conditions that did not allow to go further, I don’t have much experience though. Could you give more details on what route conditions stopped the group?
Posted by: Nick R on 6/15/2022 at 12:55 pm
What were the route conditions that did not allow you to go above 11k? Avalanche? Deep snow? Heading up this weekend and wondering what the current risks are from most recent teams.
Posted by: Kahlie Gleason on 6/13/2022 at 1:58 pm
May 29, 2022
Posted by: Alex Halliday
Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 4:12 pm PT
We woke up with plans to pack up camp early and move towards the airstrip, but the heat beat us to our plans. We trained this morning and are now hiding from the sun once again we will pack up or camp this afternoon or evening and move towards the airstrip when the heat is not so blinding.
May 29, 2022
May 28 7:43pm PT
The wind died today which meant that with the sun it felt very hot on the glacier today. We moved our camp south, closer to base camp and closer to some areas that have terrain features that are good for training and climbing. We spent the afternoon hiding from the sun in our new camp, We just finished an early dinner and are going do some evening ice climbing now that the temperatures have quelled.
RMI Guide Alex Halliday and Team
May 28, 2022
Today we awoke to the same relentless north wind that made the air feel cold, but after breakfast we decided that we needed to get out and do some training. We walked to a nearby area of tension cracks on the glacier and practiced crevasse rescue until our brains were full. We are back in camp now resting out of the wind.
RMI Guide Alex Halliday & Team
After discussing our options over dinner last night we decided that walking up the Kahiltna Glacier from Base Camp to see what starting a West Buttress climb might feel like. So this morning we started our day a little earlier than we have been to try and beat the heat we have been seeing every afternoon. And it did the trick, we took a cool breeze in the teeth all day that meant we had to climb in a couple of jackets. We sitting in camp at the base of ski hill now taking a respite from the sun.
We are so happy to read this update and we hope you all are doing well. We send our good wishes to the whole team and our love to the Crown Prince of Hungary! Go Daddy! Be careful Daddy! When are you coming home? We hope you like the mountains! We miss you! We love you! Don’t forget to take pictures!
Posted by: Maddy and Gabriel's Mom on 5/26/2022 at 8:10 am
May 25, 2022
Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 6:36 pm PT
On Monday, we awoke to scattered clouds and cooler temps around Base Camp. As the sun rose above the clouds we left camp to refresh some of our climbing skills. After taking naps during the heat of the day we learned about knots for climbing and prepared for our attempt on Radio Tower.
The mountains are calm today. The clouds are fickle and we are now sitting back in camp surrounded by a fog that has moved up the Kahiltna Glacier. We reached the top of Radio Tower today, the small prominence that sits above camp. We were met with impressive views of the north side of Mt. Hunter and the Moonflower Buttress.
Hey Tim! It’s your grandma wishing you safe and happy travels! Love you.
Posted by: Susan Cote on 5/28/2022 at 10:31 am
Great to hear the update. Hopefully the weather will be perfect.
Posted by: Mary & Mike Macklin on 5/25/2022 at 5:42 pm
May 14, 2022
Strong winds and about a foot of fresh snow prevent the Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides JT Schmitt and Alex Halliday from leaving Camp Muir. Big spring storms and winter like weather are keeping all climbing teams from reaching the summit.
The team will enjoy the stormy morning with a leisurely breakfast before starting their descent. We expect them to return to Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.
Glad you’re staying safe! Enjoy the rest of your adventure, mountaineers! We look forward to hearing about the trip and seeing photos!
Posted by: Jane and Doug Green on 5/14/2022 at 9:48 am
So excited to watch your progress! Stay safe and have a fabulous adventure! Love from Michigan!
Posted by: Charlene Hatfield on 5/14/2022 at 8:34 am