Entries from Mt. McKinley
After a big day yesterday, we had a rest day here at
14,000' on Mt. McKinley. We practiced some more fixed rope techniques and got ourselves organized. Our plan is to move our cache up to 17,000' camp tomorrow. This will allow us to carry much lighter on our move day and to further our acclimatization before we make our big move up to 17,000' Camp.
RMI Guide
Mike Haugen and "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 22, 2014 - 8:16 pm PT
It seems bizarre to have been in deep winter this morning at 14K Camp, waiting on the snow to stop, and now in summery Talkeetna. But here we are. The snow did let up enough for us to load up some BIG packs and make our way down the mountain. We descended under a beautiful crescent moon until the typical storm conditions at 11K Camp abated and we were able to trade the GPS for some sunscreen. The lower glacier was in fine condition and the team put in another solid effort, putting us at the runway ten minutes before our first plane landed. The journey today was tough, but all were up for the challenge and now are enjoying that first shower in civilization before a meal prepared on something other than a MSR stove. It's good to be back.
Thanks to a fantastic team for an amazing expedition and everyone back home who helped make it happen. We were lucky enough to get to see the view from up top and all the hard work paid off. Nice job everyone.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
June 22, 2014 - 2:46 am PT
What a great day in the mountains yesterday! I'd reckon we had one of the nicest summit opportunities of the season and it was a real treat to be in position to make the most of it. We topped out on
Denali with spectacular views in all directions and made it back to camp with as close to a solstice as you can get. The sun was still in the sky for an amazing sunset as we pulled into camp after a job well and safely done. Nice work everyone!
This morning weather rolled in from many directions and we chose to stall a bit before heading down the
Buttress. The blowing snow let up a little in the afternoon and we made the most if it, getting down to 14K Camp and having dinner before some shut eye. Tomorrow we will keep the momentum rolling downhill if the weather allows and get just a little closer to coming home.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
June 22, 2014 - 12:49 am PT
Today we woke to a cold, windy morning at high camp after yesterday's amazing summit. The blowing snow and frigid temperatures kept us tent-bound until mid-day, when the allure of thicker air and warmer temperatures finally got us motivated to pack up and get moving.
The first stretch down the
buttress was windy and cold, but by the time we reached Washburn's Thumb it was much warmer and calmer. We made quick work of the last stretch to the lines, and then shot down the fixed ropes like it was our job. Soon we were dropping packs back in 14k camp, saying hey to
Billy Nugent and
Mike Haugen and their respective teams, picking up our cache and getting ready to move further down.
Soon enough, we got past Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills, revisiting our old stomping grounds at 11k. We pulled out all the cheese, meat, tortillas, and bagels we had, and commenced to put them all onto the griddle for the annual tradition of the "11,000' Cheese Fry". Basically we just cook all the goodness until folks are full, and then it's off to bed for the early am launch.
We're definitely missing the team members who had to head home early, and hope that everyone is warm and dry. Lots of walking left, but we should be at the airstrip tomorrow if all goes according to plan. We'll check back then!
Cheers,
RMI Guides
Garrett Stevens,
Tyler Jones,
Geoff Schellens and the No Troubles team
On The Map
June 22, 2014 - 12:41 am PT
We woke up early to cold temperatures. The skies were clear and the winds were calm. After a good breakfast we set out to carry gear up higher. Not too long after we started climbing, the weather began to turn. Snow began to blow at us as we approached the fixed lines that go up to
16,200'. The weather was never too terrible, but it was never good. We decided to cache our gear at the top of the fixed lines and head back to camp. Rest day/acclimatization day tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 22, 2014 - 12:04 am PT
A snowy day here at 14K...
Howdy all. Our team enjoyed a weather/rest day after our back-carry yesterday. Winds up on the
West Buttress and steady snow through most of the day kept us from making an attempt at a carry up to 17K Camp. Tomorrow's weather outlook is a bit more promising and we are hoping to capitalize.
On a brighter note, the two successful
RMI teams came down from the summit and spent some time with us on their descent to the airstrip. It was a fun reunion for everyone and I congratulated those guys on their success and wish them safe passage down the Kahiltna.
Wurd.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
June 21, 2014 - 11:38 pm PT
This morning the team woke to some clouds in the sky and a lenticular on the top of the
Mt. McKinley. We got ready for the day while we waited for Adam to get the final words from the mountain gods on our next move. If only we knew what the mountain gods had in store for us...
Heavy loads up Ski Hill came first, followed by snow falling in a microwave followed by setting up camp in a serious snowstorm. The team made such impressive camp walls that a solo climber decided to use them as protection also for the night.
The best news of the day though is that today marked our last uphill single carry of the trip.
Happy solstice!
RMI Guides
Adam Knoff,
Andy Hildebrand and
Lindsay Mann
On The Map
June 21, 2014 - 8:11 am PT
The transition from the sweet smell of blooming cotton woods, green grass, the easy access to showers to a life of arctic surroundings, grinding work and confined tent living comes abruptly! This morning that reality was as large as the towering mountains around us but the team motivated quickly and with resolve to get our grand adventure underway. The mental weight of shouldering a 60-pound pack connected to a 50-pound sled and then hauling it into an arena like the Kahiltna Glacier can be far more intimidating than the actual physical load. Faced with this challenge our team shined! We were thrilled to walk out of
Base Camp at 9:30 this morning onto the smoothest most user-friendly trail I have seen in all my nine trips to this glacier. Not only was the trail superb, we had the weather to match. Five hours after leaving BC we arrived at Camp One. At only 7,800 feet the vertical gain was not all that much but the distance was enough under monster loads to assure us this journey will not be an easy one. Tomorrow we will attempt to move again. Stay tuned.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff signing off
On The Map
June 21, 2014 - 2:56 am PT
Well, you probably heard our summit phone call from earlier today, so this is just the follow-up to that. We had a heck of a day here in the high altitudes of North America, rising from the tents early this morning to cold temperatures, light winds, and high clouds. We decided that it was going to be a day for an attempt, and once we had basked in the sun for a bit we headed over to the shade of the Autobahn. Two hours later we had passed the difficulties of the pickets and the exposure below, and we stepped out around
Denali Pass.
The weather was still a bit in and out, but the
No Troubles crew was moving well so we kept at it. Up steep rolls, over undulating terrain, and higher and higher we climbed. We passed familiar landmarks as the day went on, like Zebra Rocks, Archdeacon's Tower, the Football Field, and finally crested onto the summit ridge in cold wind and clear blue skies. Late this afternoon, we reached the highest point on this continent, and emotions ran high as we hugged, high-fived, and snapped photos.
Jake's team came up onto the top just as we were getting ready to head down, and we were thrilled to share that special moment with them.
This team has had a full value experience, especially with all the uncertainty and waiting that we've endured. Now it's time for one last hot drink and then into the bag for a much-deserved rest. Down tomorrow, hopefully the weather holds for a flight soon!
Cheers,
RMI Guides
Tyler,
Geoff,
Garrett and the No Troubles team
On The Map
June 20, 2014 - 10:08 pm PT
Back-carry from Windy Corner to 14K Camp? Mission accomplished.
We enjoyed the best weather of the trip today. Morning snow flurries gave way to sapphire skies and gorgeous views of the entire range. Our back-carry only took us a couple of hours to complete so we spent the rest of the day soaking in the grandeur of the
Alaska Range.
They're calling for over a foot of snow tomorrow so we may end up taking a weather day but the trend is supposedly clearing Sunday through Tuesday. Could be our window? We'll see...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent from 14K Camp
On The Map
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Congratulations Jared!!!! Such a huge accomplishment. We look forward to hearing all about it when you get back.
The Data Systems Team
Posted by: Trina Roskelley on 6/24/2014 at 10:40 am
Well Done Team!!! Congratulations !~! Rosemary
Posted by: Rosemary on 6/23/2014 at 12:44 pm
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