June 23, 2014 - 2:10 PM PT
The day, yesterday, dawned cold and windy again, seemingly the weather theme for the entire trip. We decided to launch out of 11k camp anyway, with the siren song of airplane rides motivating our packing. When all the kits were loaded into duffels, we started the Kahiltna Shuffle in whiteout conditions, a stiff breeze keeping the temps cool despite the hard work of dragging big sleds downhill.
Soon we passed our friends who were camped at 9500', and stopped in for a quick hello as the weather got just a little better. We continued down the glacier under improving skies, with only one or two minor freak-outs over the cumbersome sleds that threatened to take us out at the knees.
Finally the sun broke through, and the last grind up Heartbreak Hill was about as hot as anywhere on earth. But with the blue skies, we knew that the planes were flying - and that kept us moving right into base camp. Within about 10 minutes, our K2 Aviation Otter had landed, and we loaded up the kit and let internal combustion take over.
The evening wrap-up by the Susitna River was a special event, and Denali even came out from behind the clouds to give us full closure. It has been an incredible adventure from the very beginning, and while the actual climbing is over, the memories and experiences we've shared will remain. Thanks for following along and for all the support along the way!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team
Congrats to the team! I can’t wait to hear more about the trip and see more pictures. Love you Jake and hope to see you soon
Posted by: Bonnie Garfield on 6/24/2014 at 8:33 am
Tyler, Garrett and Geoff….well done and thank you from all of the John Stenderup family. The RMI experience for John included weather adversity and other circumstances that will be life long lessons for all of your teams. Your superb training enabled some to summit and prevented possible disaster for others. I, and I hope John also, will forever retain “the summit is for the ego and the journey is for the soul” incantation. Thank you. Best Regards, Kent Stenderup
Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 10:13 pm
June 22, 2014 - 11:26 pm PT
Hey, it's Billy checking in here from 14,000' on Denali. Our team had a great day up on the West Buttress today. We were able to carry a load of food, fuel and supplies up to 17,000' and get the cache in at 17,000' Camp. It was a long day on the Buttress though. We had mostly clear skies but lots and lots wind and lots of blowing snow. So it made for a tough day all in all everyone did really well.
Everyone is hanging in there and we are hoping to rest tomorrow and then set up for our summit bid whenever the weather decides to open up.
That is all for now.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from 14,000 ft on Mt. McKinley
Greetings Michael, Bruce & the Rest of the Team: Hope Mother Nature offers up a summit bid soon! You guys are awesome - we are following the blog every day!
Posted by: Chambos on 6/23/2014 at 5:43 pm
Heyooooooooooooooooo!!! You’re almost there! Whoop whoop! You got this! We can’t wait for you to come back because we have a fourteener called Mt. McCornley waiting for you to tackle :)
These are the McKinley moments that tend to recharge the batteries and make the hard days tolerable. Inside the tent, wrapped in a mountain of down, fed by the culinary expertise of Lindsay and Andy with views straight down the Kahiltna Glacier that knock your boots off. The simplicity of this entire process creates an appreciation for simple rest not realized in other facets of ordinary life. Get up, work yur' arse off, get real tired and hungry, eat and go to bed. No technology distractions, no depressing news feeds, simply us and the mountain.
Having just completed day three, we are all pleased with our current position. We awoke this morning to chilly temps, blowing snow and low visibility. Because of our lower elevation of 9,300 feet another move day seemed a bit much so we opted for a carry that landed a majority of our team's unneeded gear at the 11,000 ft camp which we plan to move to tomorrow. These first four or five days can be some of the climb's hardest but everyone has handled it with grace and competence. We anticipate another strong team performance tomorrow. Big hugs go out to friends and family who are taking the time to follow along.
Hasta mañana,
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
After a big day yesterday, we had a rest day here at 14,000' on Mt. McKinley. We practiced some more fixed rope techniques and got ourselves organized. Our plan is to move our cache up to 17,000' camp tomorrow. This will allow us to carry much lighter on our move day and to further our acclimatization before we make our big move up to 17,000' Camp.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and "The Ocho"
June 22, 2014 - 8:16 pm PT
It seems bizarre to have been in deep winter this morning at 14K Camp, waiting on the snow to stop, and now in summery Talkeetna. But here we are. The snow did let up enough for us to load up some BIG packs and make our way down the mountain. We descended under a beautiful crescent moon until the typical storm conditions at 11K Camp abated and we were able to trade the GPS for some sunscreen. The lower glacier was in fine condition and the team put in another solid effort, putting us at the runway ten minutes before our first plane landed. The journey today was tough, but all were up for the challenge and now are enjoying that first shower in civilization before a meal prepared on something other than a MSR stove. It's good to be back.
Thanks to a fantastic team for an amazing expedition and everyone back home who helped make it happen. We were lucky enough to get to see the view from up top and all the hard work paid off. Nice job everyone.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
June 22, 2014 - 2:46 am PT
What a great day in the mountains yesterday! I'd reckon we had one of the nicest summit opportunities of the season and it was a real treat to be in position to make the most of it. We topped out on Denali with spectacular views in all directions and made it back to camp with as close to a solstice as you can get. The sun was still in the sky for an amazing sunset as we pulled into camp after a job well and safely done. Nice work everyone!
This morning weather rolled in from many directions and we chose to stall a bit before heading down the Buttress. The blowing snow let up a little in the afternoon and we made the most if it, getting down to 14K Camp and having dinner before some shut eye. Tomorrow we will keep the momentum rolling downhill if the weather allows and get just a little closer to coming home.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
June 22, 2014 - 12:49 am PT
Today we woke to a cold, windy morning at high camp after yesterday's amazing summit. The blowing snow and frigid temperatures kept us tent-bound until mid-day, when the allure of thicker air and warmer temperatures finally got us motivated to pack up and get moving.
The first stretch down the buttress was windy and cold, but by the time we reached Washburn's Thumb it was much warmer and calmer. We made quick work of the last stretch to the lines, and then shot down the fixed ropes like it was our job. Soon we were dropping packs back in 14k camp, saying hey to Billy Nugent and Mike Haugen and their respective teams, picking up our cache and getting ready to move further down.
Soon enough, we got past Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills, revisiting our old stomping grounds at 11k. We pulled out all the cheese, meat, tortillas, and bagels we had, and commenced to put them all onto the griddle for the annual tradition of the "11,000' Cheese Fry". Basically we just cook all the goodness until folks are full, and then it's off to bed for the early am launch.
We're definitely missing the team members who had to head home early, and hope that everyone is warm and dry. Lots of walking left, but we should be at the airstrip tomorrow if all goes according to plan. We'll check back then!
Cheers,
RMI Guides Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens and the No Troubles team
Dave!
I can’t begin to know how you feel about what you’ve accomplished! Can’t wait to see you and hear it all through your eyes. Besides we need you…Tristan can’t keep up the pace and is buckling under the pressure of trying to fill your shoes :-)
Posted by: Suzanne on 6/23/2014 at 2:34 am
John, so proud of you and the rest of the team, have been helping you along, knew you could do it! See you soon here in the nice hot valley. Farmor
June 22, 2014 - 12:41 am PT
We woke up early to cold temperatures. The skies were clear and the winds were calm. After a good breakfast we set out to carry gear up higher. Not too long after we started climbing, the weather began to turn. Snow began to blow at us as we approached the fixed lines that go up to 16,200'. The weather was never too terrible, but it was never good. We decided to cache our gear at the top of the fixed lines and head back to camp. Rest day/acclimatization day tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"
June 22, 2014 - 12:04 am PT
A snowy day here at 14K...
Howdy all. Our team enjoyed a weather/rest day after our back-carry yesterday. Winds up on the West Buttress and steady snow through most of the day kept us from making an attempt at a carry up to 17K Camp. Tomorrow's weather outlook is a bit more promising and we are hoping to capitalize.
On a brighter note, the two successful RMI teams came down from the summit and spent some time with us on their descent to the airstrip. It was a fun reunion for everyone and I congratulated those guys on their success and wish them safe passage down the Kahiltna.
Wurd.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Eric: Prayers and crossed fingers for clear weather over the next three days! Being on top with blue skies and marginal wind would be awesome! Be smart & safe! Paul
Posted by: Paul on 6/23/2014 at 11:42 am
Michael & Bruce…sending you so much love and prayers from NYC…thinking of you guys and our amazing Kili adventure. You are both awesome and I KNOW you & your team will have incredible stories to share! Cannot wait to hear all about your climb and see your pics! Love you! xoxo Christine & the Shortman
June 21, 2014 - 11:38 pm PT
This morning the team woke to some clouds in the sky and a lenticular on the top of the Mt. McKinley. We got ready for the day while we waited for Adam to get the final words from the mountain gods on our next move. If only we knew what the mountain gods had in store for us...
Heavy loads up Ski Hill came first, followed by snow falling in a microwave followed by setting up camp in a serious snowstorm. The team made such impressive camp walls that a solo climber decided to use them as protection also for the night.
The best news of the day though is that today marked our last uphill single carry of the trip.
Happy solstice!
RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Andy Hildebrand and Lindsay Mann
Glad to hear you are all having such a great trip so far, lets hope it stays that way! I hope you are ever ready for the summit attempt later down the road! Stay safe!
(world cup spoiler below!)
By the way, you missed a nail biting end to the USA-Portugal game—Portugal came back in the last 10 seconds with a header to tie it at 2-2!
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Congrats to the team! I can’t wait to hear more about the trip and see more pictures. Love you Jake and hope to see you soon
Posted by: Bonnie Garfield on 6/24/2014 at 8:33 am
Tyler, Garrett and Geoff….well done and thank you from all of the John Stenderup family. The RMI experience for John included weather adversity and other circumstances that will be life long lessons for all of your teams. Your superb training enabled some to summit and prevented possible disaster for others. I, and I hope John also, will forever retain “the summit is for the ego and the journey is for the soul” incantation. Thank you. Best Regards, Kent Stenderup
Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 10:13 pm
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