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Entries from Mt. McKinley


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Together in Talkeetna

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 10:18 pm PT

It is usually a good sign when the easy part goes smooth and easy.  Our team of seven climbers and guides flew in and met up in Alaska without a hitch.  It was cloudy and overcast as we drove up from Anchorage, but not so much that we couldn’t get glimpses of the big mountains up mingling with the cloud tops.  We stopped briefly in Wasilla for a few final provisions from the world of supermarkets, and then cruised on up the Parks Highway to the Talkeetna spur road.  After settling our gear at the airplane hangar and ourselves at the hotel, we braved mosquito hoards and labor shortages to find a fine dinner at the West Rib.  A well-fed climbing team then waddled out to the banks of the great Susitna River to see if the mountains had come out.  Not quite, but we judged it all to be good enough for day one. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Make Summit Attempt, Return to High Camp

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 10:18 pm PT

The team tried to summit today, and as usual we performed like a well oiled machine. Unfortunately we weren’t able to make it to the top due to adverse and unexpected obstacles that again, the team handled exquisitely. We put in a track up to Denali pass and hope to make it up again in the coming days.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Texas taking in oklahoma state

Kevin durant, kevin DURANT, OH KEVIN DURANT…..

Posted by: Digger Phelps on 6/20/2021 at 4:24 pm

Good luck, be safe, and thanks for taking us along!

Posted by: Joe Eley on 6/20/2021 at 4:08 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Retrieve Cache, Enjoy Day at 14,000 Camp

What a day,

Clear skies greeted us this morning creating a very brisk morning. Once again camp was quiet with the cold. As the sun broke over the mountain and warmed camp it became alive. Teams started moving around going various directions whether it was heading toward 17,000' Camp or going down to the 13,500' cache. For us it was going down to our 13,500' cache. We made fast work grabing our gear and getting back to camp. After a lunch break we went for a walk to the Edge of the World. You can see all the way down to our first camp at 7,800'. Its a long fall over the edge but makes for great hero shots. Everyone got belayed onto the rock (much like the rock from lion king) and got great photos, ice axe in hand, big smiles and thousands of feet of relief below them. As for tomorrow we are in a holding pattern with weather and logistics. No matter what we end up doing tomorrow it will be a good day and is all apart of our journey to the top.

All the best,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Julia—You are our HERO . only you can reach for the stars.  Happy 20th on the 20- My 80th Bday is also today. Ricardo y Norita - Tio Richard.

Posted by: Ricardo J Ferro on 6/21/2021 at 7:06 am

Happy 20th birthday to my amazing & brave niece, Julia! You are beautiful inside and out! Love you so much!
Poupou

Posted by: Poupou on 6/20/2021 at 2:23 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 8:43 am PT

Good morning from Kahiltna Base Camp. We were packed and ready to fly all day yesterday, but the weather wouldn't cooperate with our plans. After playing the waiting game for most of the day, we finally loaded up the two turbine Otters and launched towards the Alaska Range. We arrived at Basecamp at around 6pm and set up shop here. We'll spend the day here today and move to the Base of Ski Hill tonight when the snow freezes back up.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Praying for safety. Thanks for the update!! Rob, Dad got your postcard today and was thrilled to hear from you. Praying you all make it to the Summit!

Posted by: Marg Millman on 6/22/2021 at 6:25 pm

Miss you Daryl! Looking forward to the updates! Everyone asking about you everyday

Posted by: Katie on 6/21/2021 at 11:02 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Snow Overnight Prompt Rest Day at 14,000 Camp

Thursday, June 17, 2021 - 10:02 pm PT

Howdy all,

The snow continued through the night and into the morning. A layer of frost coated the under side of the fly. Every time you hit the tent to knock the snow off, the frost fell down onto our sleeping bags. As the sun came out and warmed the tents, the ice melted and the frost turned into little water drops. Due to the snowfall and wet tents, we opted for a rest day to allow everything to get dry. Snow fell most of the day, sometimes while sunny others fully cloudy making for a very white scene. But later in the day the clouds cleared and the views were amazing. Having such great views makes being patient worth it. The temps bounced from chilly to very hot in the tents all day. One could swear it was 100 degrees inside. They say its freeze or fry out here and we can all feel why. Tomorrow's weather looks good, so we will be going to our cache at 13,500' to grab our stuff. Its exciting to be reunited with your snacks you parted ways with at 11,000' camp. Sleeping bags are calling our names.

Till tomorrow,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wishing you all the Best Hannah and Dustin!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/19/2021 at 3:32 am

These updates are the highlight of my day, you truly give us perspective on the tremendous feat you have all undertaken and prepared for.  Putting it out to the universe for great weather to make the summit happen. The pictures are amazing, keep them coming! I love my Lu, what a golden birthday this is!!!!

Posted by: Daysi on 6/18/2021 at 3:58 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Wait for Weather Window

Thursday, June 17, 2021 1:33 pm PT

This morning we woke up to a foot of new snow and the winds have been blowing 30 mph all day, which is slightly unpleasant but what we expected. There is a lot of strategy in expedition climbing, and this plan is part of that. We got up to 17,000' camp yesterday knowing it would not be possible today, and now we are in position to take advantage of tomorrow’s supposed high pressure.

Send good thoughts our way for good weather tomorrow!

RMI Guides JT, Alan, Kirra and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Vano, when you shotgun a beer at the summit, have you thought about the pressure change and how that beer may just buss everywhere? Please get back to me

-Heater

Posted by: Heater on 6/18/2021 at 5:10 am

Sending good thoughts!

Posted by: Ann on 6/17/2021 at 6:49 pm


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Break Camp and Move to 14,000ft Camp

Wednesday, June 16, 2021 - 9:49 pm PT

Good evening,

We woke today to snowflakes dancing their way to our tent making a pitter patter noise. It was a calm morning with fluffy snow. The clouds rolled in and out throughout breakfast making it a touch and go if we were going to pack up. But then as we finished our cereal and hot drinks, the snow dissipated and blue sky was showing. We broke down camp and hit the snowy trail. Heavy packs and heavy sleds weighed us down but we pushed forward. It was a tough day but we rolled into camp as more snow began to fall. Seeing the tents at 14,000' Camp as we crested the last hill was a marvelous sight. It might as well had been a cheeseburger and beer. Once the camp was established we all crawled into our new home and dried our gear. Some good ole Annie's Mac filled our tummies before we all went back to our sleeping bags for what we all hope to be a great night sleep. As the weather remains squirrely, we will decide what our agenda for tomorrow will be. Could be a back carry or could be a rest day.

Goodnight,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

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HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO
JULIA JOHANSSON
WE LOVE YIU AND MISS YOU.
Hope you are having an AMAZING EXPERIENCE.! Stay safe and be well :)

Posted by: Abinaders on 6/20/2021 at 7:38 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Reach 17,000ft Camp, Ready for Summit Bid

Wednesday, June 16, 2021 - 8:29 pm PT

We made it to High Camp, 17,200' on Denali. It’s a little blustery but other than that all is good here. Keeping our fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Matt - Hopefully your next push will be the summit. Good luck and keep climbing. Best of weather and conditions so you can look down on Ross, Jason and Eli further down the glacier. Congratulations in advance! Gerard

Posted by: Gerard Crum on 6/17/2021 at 8:39 am


Denali Expedition: Hannah Smith & Team Prepare to Move Higher

Tuesday June 16,  2021 - 8:30 pm PT

Good evening,

Higher and higher we go! We continued moving gear uphill today. We left camp in the morning and made our way up motorcycle hill. It’s a rather steep hill, very much in your face. But with good cramponing and pressure breathing we made it to the top. Next, we cruised up squirrel hill, across the polo fields, around windy corner to our cache site. Some firm snow made digging our deep hole difficult but the effort is worth it so the ravens don't get at our food. The team is feeling good and looking great. We are all very excited to move to 14k camp tomorrow. There is a weather system possibly hitting the mountain Wednesday night so it will be nice to get out of 11k camp and up to 14k camp in case it produces a bunch of snow. Plus, a new scenery and home will be a fun change as well. It’s the little things that bring you joy on mountain.

Goodnight,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I’m so exited for the entire team and the tremendous progress you have already made. I wish I could have been there with you Julia and I think about it every day as the memories we shared together from Reiner are as vibrant as if it was yesterday. I love you to the end of the universe and back and the entire family are routing for a wonderful experience out there together with your team. Älskar dig för alltid!! Pappa.

Posted by: Stefan Johansson on 6/16/2021 at 12:40 pm

Happy Anniversary Hector! Lots of love from NY

Posted by: Anna Haring on 6/16/2021 at 11:35 am


Denali Expedition: Rest Day for JT Schmitt & Team

Tuesday, June 15, 2021 - 4:50 pm PT

We are enjoying a nice sunny rest day at 14,000’ camp today after our carry to 17,000’ yesterday. We are waiting to see what the weather has in store before we make our next move. All is well here at camp!

RMI Guides JT, Kiira, Alan and the RMI team

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Go team go! Hoping for great weather and easy travels!

Posted by: Ellen on 6/16/2021 at 10:12 am

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